Relevance of UV filter/sunscreen product photostability to human safety.

Photostability or photo-instability of sunscreen products is most often discussed in undesirable terms with respect to human safety. The health risks, specifically associated with sunscreens, photostable or photo-unstable, include phototoxic/photoirritation or photoallergic responses and, longer-term, an increased risk of skin cancers or photoageing. The aims of this paper are to define photostability/photo-instability and objectively assess the acute and chronic toxicological consequences from the human exposure to UV filter/sunscreens and any probable photo-degradation products. The reported prevalence of photoirritation and photoallergic responses to sunscreens is rare compared with adverse events, for example, skin irritation or sensitization, produced by cosmetics or topically applied drugs and do not directly implicate potential photo-degradation products of UV filters. Moreover, for at least one photo-unstable combination, octyl methoxycinnamate and avobenzone, the long-term benefits to humans, i.e., reduction in skin cancers, seem to outweigh any potential adverse consequences attributed to photo-degradation. Sunscreen products are formulated to achieve maximum efficacy which, by necessity and design, incorporate measures to support and promote photostability since all organic UV filters have the potential to photo-degrade. Current performance measures, in vivo SPF and in vitro UVA, conducted under standardized conditions, in part account for photostability. The concerns expressed when considering human exposure to potential photo-unstable UV filters or sunscreen products may not manifest as health risks under conditions of use. Still, improvement in sunscreen product photostability continues to be a key strategic objective for manufacturers.

The evolution of sunscreen products in the United States--a 12-year cross sectional study.

Excessive exposure from ultraviolet (UV) radiation contributes to the development of skin cancers and photoaging. Topical sunscreen products remain one of the most widely used forms of protection for the majority of the public. The objective of this analysis was to examine photoprotection trends (e.g., SPF value) and the degree of UVA I protection from 1997 to 2009 in the United States. Sunscreen products purchased and evaluated in 1997 (N = 59), 2003 (N = 188) and again in 2009 (N = 330), totaling 577, were included in this analysis. Information regarding (1) the SPF value, (2) name and concentration of the active ingredients, (3) type of products (i.e., daily vs. recreational/beach), and (4) claims of UVA protection was recorded and analyzed. In addition, the critical wavelength (CW) of 330 products from 2009 was determined. The results showed an increase in the SPF values of products from 1997 to 2009. The percentage of low SPF products (SPF 4-14) decreased from 27% in 1997 to 6% in 2009. The number of products containing a known UVA-I filter (i.e., avobenzone or zinc oxide) increased from 5% in 1997 to 70% in 2009. Lastly, approximately, 225 (68%) of the products tested in 2009 attained CW > 370 nm. In the past decade, sunscreen products have undergone fundamental improvements, the most significant of which is the breadth of protection against UVA I.

Sunscreen product formulation.

On the surface, sunscreen products are pretty simple. They consist of a delivery vehicle containing one or more sunscreen active ingredients. When applied to the skin, these sunscreen actives intercept solar ultraviolet (UV) rays before they can damage the underlying skin. However, while conceptually simple, a detailed analysis reveals that sunscreen formulations are quite complex, requiring careful selection of sunscreen active and vehicle components to control multiple performance and in-use parameters.Thus, to enable a better understanding and appreciation of sunscreen products, the typical steps in formulating a sunscreen product are described. Throughout this process, the key is to apply scientific principles together with a bit of formulation art to holistically create the best sunscreen product that meets the design targets--a sunscreen product that people will use regularly and properly.

Ultraviolet A radiation: testing and labeling for sunscreen products.

Conceptually, sunscreen products are quite simple. The ultraviolet (UV) filters in these products reduce the "dose" of solar energy to which the skin is exposed. Underlying this empirical notion are many complexities including measures of product efficacy and how to communicate this to consumers. The sun protection factor (SPF) test is and should remain the singular in vivo method for evaluating sunscreens. Additionally, substrate spectrophotometric measure of absorbance/transmittance and the calculation of the summary statistic, such as the critical wavelength (ie, lambda(c)), should be used as a means of evaluating broad-spectrum (ie, UVA) protection. Ideally, the photoprotective efficacy of sunscreen products will be communicated to consumers as an SPF no greater than 50 and a single designation of "broad-spectrum" to indicate long-wavelength UVA protection.