Randomized double-blind placebo-controlled cosmetic trial of a topical first-in-class Neutraligand targeting the chemokine TARC/CCL17 in mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis.

BACKGROUND: Atopic dermatitis has a marked economic impact and affects the quality of life. A cosmetic compound with an innovative strategy is proposed here as a small chemical neutraligand, GPN279 (previously identified as a theophylline derivative), that binds and potently neutralizes the TARC/CCL17 chemokine, activating the Th2 cell-expressed CCR4 receptor. OBJECTIVE: Our objective was to evaluate the safety and activity of topically applied GPN279 in mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis patients in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, parallel group trial. Such cosmetic active ingredient targeting dry skin with an atopic tendency would open a parallel strategy to the pharmaceutical approach, in particular for mild to moderate subjects, as an alternative to reduce the evolution towards severe forms of atopy. METHODS: This 4-week trial included adults with mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis, according to the SCORAD index. Patients were randomized into two groups treated by topical applications of either an emulsion containing 0.44% GPN279 in placebo on skin lesions or the placebo (4.56% glycerin). Clinical activity was evaluated with the SCORAD as the primary objective. As secondary objectives, POEM, erythema, skin moisturization, its barrier function (TEWL) and safety were evaluated. RESULTS: Twenty-one patients in each group completed the study. SCORAD was significantly improved in the GPN279 group vs. placebo. GPN279 also significantly improved POEM, induced a rapid and significant decrease of erythema, and improved skin moisture. GPN279 and placebo were well tolerated throughout the study. CONCLUSION: A cosmetic cream comprising the CCL17 neutraligand GPN279 improved the skin barrier and physiology criteria in patients with mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis.

GÉNÉRALITÉS: La dermatite atopique a un impact économique marqué et affecte la qualité de vie. Un composé cosmétique dote d'une stratégie innovante est proposé ici sous la forme d'un petit neutraligand chimique, le GPN279 (précédemment identifié comme un dérivé de la théophylline), qui se lie et neutralise puissamment la chimiokine TARC/CCL17, activant le récepteur CCR4 exprimé par les cellules Th2. OBJECTIF: Notre objectif était d'évaluer l'innocuité et l'activité du GPN279 appliqué localement chez des patients atteints de dermatite atopique légère à modérée dans un essai randomisé, en double aveugle contre placebo et en groupes parallèles. Un tel actif cosmétique ciblant les peaux sèches à tendance atopique ouvrirait une stratégie parallèle à l'approche pharmaceutique, notamment pour les sujets atteints de forme légère à modérée, comme alternative visant à réduire l'évolution vers des formes sévères d'atopie. MÉTHODES: Cet essai de 4 semaines incluait des adultes atteints de dermatite atopique légère à modérée, selon l'indice SCORAD. Les patients ont été randomisés en deux groupes traités par application topique sur les lésions cutanées soit d'une émulsion contenant 0,44% de GPN279 dans un placebo, soit du placebo seul (4,56% de glycérine). L'activité clinique a été évaluée selon l'indice SCORAD comme objectif principal. Les objectifs secondaires évaluaient le POEM, l'érythème, l'hydratation de la peau, sa fonction barrière (TEWL) et la sécurité. RÉSULTATS: Vingt et un patients de chaque groupe ont terminé l'étude. L'indice SCORAD a été significativement amélioré dans le groupe GPN279 par rapport au placebo. Le GPN279 a également amélioré de manière significative le POEM, a induit une diminution rapide et significative de l'érythème et amélioré l'hydratation de la peau. Le GPN279 et le placebo ont été bien tolérés tout au long de l'étude. CONCLUSION: Une crème cosmétique contenant le neutraligand CCL17 GPN279 améliore la barrière cutanée et les critères physiologiques chez les patients atteints de dermatite atopique légère à modérée.

The Many Faces of Pediatric Acne: How to Tailor Nonprescription Acne Treatment and Skincare Using Cleansers and Moisturizers.

BACKGROUND: Acne vulgaris (acne) is a common, complex, multifactorial disorder. Various expressions of acne in childhood can be categorized by age, severity, and pubertal status. OBJECTIVE: To improve pediatric acne patients’ outcomes, various expressions of pediatric acne to educate and tailor nonprescription acne treatment and skincare using cleansers and moisturizers were defined and discussed. METHODS: An expert panel of pediatric dermatologists and dermatologists reviewed and discussed nonprescription acne treatment and skincare literature. The results from the literature searches were used together with the panel’s expert opinion and experience to adopt various expressions of pediatric acne and prevention, treatment, and maintenance of the condition using nonprescription acne treatment and skincare. RESULTS: The panel agreed on sixteen acne patient profiles addressing various age categories of pediatric acne: neonatal acne: birth to ≤ 8 weeks; infantile acne: 8 weeks to ≤1 year; mid-childhood acne: 1 year to <7 years; preadolescent acne: ≥7 to 12 years; adolescent acne: ≥12 to 19 years or after menarche for girls. Nonprescription acne treatment and skincare products containing lipids such as ceramides play an important role in monotherapy, adjunctive, and maintenance treatment; however, their role in pediatric acne is not well defined and requires more studies. CONCLUSION: Pediatric acne deserves more attention from healthcare providers treating children regarding differential diagnosis, treatment, and maintenance using nonprescription acne treatment and skincare. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022;21(6):602-612. doi:10.36849/JDD.6872.

Contact dermatitis to personal care products is increasing (but different!) in males and females: North American Contact Dermatitis Group data, 1996-2016.

BACKGROUND: Personal care products (PCPs) are commonly responsible for allergic contact dermatitis and irritant contact dermatitis. PCP use was historically associated with females, but male-targeted PCPs are increasingly being marketed. OBJECTIVE: To characterize and compare males with PCP-related contact dermatitis (MPCPs) and females with PCP-related contact dermatitis (FPCPs). METHODS: This was a retrospective cross-sectional analysis of North American Contact Dermatitis Group data (1996-2016). RESULTS: Four thousand six hundred eighty of 16,233 men (28.8%) and 12,730 of 32,222 (39.5%) women had a PCP identified as a source of irritant contact dermatitis or a positive patch test reaction. The proportion of PCP-related dermatitis in both sexes significantly increased (>2.7-fold) over the decade of study. Compared with FPCPs, a larger proportion of MPCPs were older or had trunk or extremity dermatitis (P < .0001). MPCPs were twice as likely to have soaps as a source while FPCPs were twice as likely to have hair care products (P < .0001). The most common PCP-related North American Contact Dermatitis Group allergens for both sexes were methylisothiazolinone (MPCP 28.8% and FPCP 21.5%), fragrance mix I (MPCP 22.3% and FPCP 20.1%), balsam of Peru (MPCP 18.5% and FPCP 14.1%), quaternium-15 (MPCP 16.1% and FPCP 12.3%), and paraphenylenediamine (MPCP 11.5% and FPCP 11.1%). LIMITATIONS: Patient population referred for suspected contact dermatitis. CONCLUSIONS: PCP-related dermatitis is increasing. Sites of involvement and relevant PCP sources are distinct between sexes. Male and female variation in exposure history may explain differences in reactivity to some allergen groups.

ARTICLE: Models to Study Skin Lipids in Relation to the Barrier Function: A Modern Update on Models and Methodologies Evaluating Skin Barrier Function.

The skin barrier is a multifaceted microenvironment, comprised not only of structural and molecular components that maintain its integrity, but also a lipid matrix comprising an equimolar ratio of cholesterol, free fatty acids, and ceramides. Lipid abnormalities induced by environmental or pathological stimuli are often associated with impaired skin barrier function and integrity. Incorporation of skin lipids in skincare formulations to help fortify barrier function has become widespread. While there are resources available to study the barrier, a comprehensive evaluation of skin models, from in situ to in vivo, that focus on alterations of the lipid content, seems to be lacking. This article reviews current methods to evaluate the skin lipid barrier and touches upon the significance of using such models within the cosmetic field to study formulations that incorporate barrier lipids. J Drugs Dermatol. 20(4 Suppl):s10-16. doi:10.36849/JDD.S589B.

Over the Counter Products for Acne Treatment and Maintenance in Latin America: A Review of Current Clinical Practice.

BACKGROUND: The prevalence and clinical presentation of acne vulgaris in Latin America are comparable to that in Europe and the United States. This review aims at insight into the role of Over the Counter (OTC) products in acne treatment and maintenance in Latin America. METHODS: A panel of dermatologists from Latin America employed an online procedure to answer questions on this topic: What is used, by whom, when, how, and why? Before the meeting, a survey was completed by dermatologists from Latin America on OTC products for acne recommended by the panel in their clinical practice. The survey information and a literature review on Latin American acne guidelines and clinical studies were used to address this topic. RESULTS: The survey responders' choices on OTC products for monotherapy comprised alpha-hydroxy acid and beta-hydroxy acid-containing serum, ceramides-containing foaming cleanser, a soap-free exfoliating cleanser, adapalene, and benzoyl peroxide-containing products. The clinicians recommended OTC cleansing products mainly for younger patients at a starter level and for women with adult acne. The use of these OTC products is similar to practice described in therapeutic acne guidelines and algorithms for Latin American countries, Spain and Portugal, Europe, and the United States. CONCLUSIONS: Advisors agreed that OTC products and skincare recommendations, in addition to the use of prescription medications, are a crucial part of successful acne therapy. Participants noted that the use of quality OTC products could improve acne symptomatology and severity. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021;20(3):244-250. doi:10.36849/JDD.5779 THIS ARTICLE HAD BEEN MADE AVAILABLE FREE OF CHARGE. PLEASE SCROLL DOWN TO ACCESS THE FULL fTEXT OF THIS ARTICLE WITHOUT LOGGING IN. NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. PLEASE CONTACT THE PUBLISHER WITH ANY QUESTIONS.

Treatment Update of Port-Wine Stain: A Narrative Review.

BACKGROUND: Port-wine stain (PWS) is a congenital vascular malformation affecting 0.3–0.5% of normal population. These characteristic lesions arise due to the interplay of vascular, neural, and genetic factors. Treatment options include lasers, cosmetic tattooing, electrotherapy, cryosurgery, derma-abrasion, and skin grafting; however, none of these treatment alternatives appears to be satisfactory and is unable to provide consistent, satisfactory responses or even complete cures. Currently, laser is the treatment of choice, as it is comparatively safe and more effective than other procedures. The most commonly used modality is pulsed dye laser (PDL). The literature research includes peer-reviewed articles (clinical trials or scientific reviews). Studies were identified by searching electronic databases (MEDLINE and PubMed) to January 2020 and reference lists of respective articles. Only articles published in English language were included. J Drugs Dermatol. 20(5): doi:10.36849/JDD.5005.

The Emerging Role of Ionic Liquid-Based Approaches for Enhanced Skin Permeation of Bioactive Molecules: A Snapshot of the Past Couple of Years.

Topical and transdermal delivery systems are of undeniable significance and ubiquity in healthcare, to facilitate the delivery of active pharmaceutical ingredients, respectively, onto or across the skin to enter systemic circulation. From ancient ointments and potions to modern micro/nanotechnological devices, a variety of approaches has been explored over the ages to improve the skin permeation of diverse medicines and cosmetics. Amongst the latest investigational dermal permeation enhancers, ionic liquids have been gaining momentum, and recent years have been prolific in this regard. As such, this review offers an outline of current methods for enhancing percutaneous permeation, highlighting selected reports where ionic liquid-based approaches have been investigated for this purpose. Future perspectives on use of ionic liquids for topical delivery of bioactive peptides are also presented.

Phytoestrogens (Resveratrol and Equol) for Estrogen-Deficient Skin-Controversies/Misinformation versus Anti-Aging In Vitro and Clinical Evidence via Nutraceutical-Cosmetics.

The overarching theme for this review is perspective. Superfoods (a marketing term for fruits and vegetables, etc.) have a positive connotation, while many superfoods contain phytoestrogens, a term that is alarming to the public and has a negative connotation because phytoestrogens are endocrine-disruptors, even though they are strong antioxidants that have many health benefits. To understand phytoestrogens, this paper provides a brief summary of the characteristics of: (a) estrogens, (b) estrogen receptors (ER), (c) estrogen-deficient skin, (d) how perspective(s) get off track, (e) phytoestrogen food sources, and (f) misconceptions of phytoestrogens and food safety, in general, that influence person(s) away from what is true. Finally, a brief history of cosmetics to nutraceuticals is covered plus the characteristics of phytoestrogens, resveratrol and equol on: (g) estrogen receptor binding, (h) topical and oral dosing, and (i) in vitro, molecular mechanisms and select clinical evidence, where both phytoestrogens (resveratrol and equol) demonstrate promising applications to improve skin health is presented along with future directions of nutraceuticals. Perspective is paramount in understanding the controversies associated with superfoods, phytoestrogens, and endocrine-disruptors because they have both positive and negative connotations. Everyone is exposed to and consumes these molecules everyday regardless of age, gender, or geographic location around the world, and how we understand this is a matter of perspective.

Cytotoxic, genotoxic, and toxicogenomic effects of dihydroxyacetone in human primary keratinocytes.

PURPOSE: Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is the only ingredient approved by the U.S. FDA as a colour additive in sunless tanning (self-tanning) products. Consumer sunless tanning products available for retail purchase contain 1-15% DHA. Although originally thought to only interact with the stratum corneum, more recent research has shown that DHA penetrates beyond the stratum corneum to living keratinocytes indicating a possible route of exposure in the epidermis. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) were used to determine any potential in vitro toxicological effects of DHA in the epidermis. NHEK cells exposed to DHA concentrations up to 0.90% (100 mM) in dosing media were evaluated for viability, genotoxicity (Comet Assay), and gene expression changes by microarray analysis. RESULTS: Cell viability significantly decreased ∼50% after 3-h exposure to 50 and 100 mM DHA. DNA damage was only found to be significantly increased in cells exposed to cytotoxic DHA concentrations. A subtoxic dose of DHA induced significant gene expression changes. Particularly, expression of cyclin B1, CDK1, and six other genes associated with the G2/M cell cycle checkpoint was significantly decreased which correlates well with a G2/M block reported in the existing literature. Advanced Glycation End Product (AGE) formation significantly increased after 24 h of DHA exposure at and above 10 mM. In summary, these data show that DHA is cytotoxic above 25 mM in primary keratinocytes. Genotoxicity was detected only at cytotoxic concentrations, likely indicative of non-biologically relevant DNA damage, while subtoxic doses induce gene expression changes and glycation. CONCLUSION: DHA treatment had a significant and negative effect on primary keratinocytes consistent with in vitro cultured cell outcomes; however, more information is needed to draw conclusions about the biological effect of DHA in human skin.

Read-across can increase confidence in the Next Generation Risk Assessment for skin sensitisation: A case study with resorcinol.

Historically skin sensitisation risk assessment for cosmetic ingredients was based on animal models, however regulatory demands have led to Next Generation Risk Assessment (NGRA), using data from New Approach Methodologies (NAM) and Defined Approaches (DA). This case study was meant to investigate if the use of resorcinol at 0.2% in a face cream was safe and a maximum use concentration could be defined. The NAM data and DA predictions could not provide sufficient confidence to determine a point of departure (POD). Therefore, the application of read-across was explored to increase the level of confidence. Analogue searches in various tools and databases using "mode of action" and "chemical structural features" retrieved 535 analogues. After refinement by excluding analogues without a defined structure, similar reactivity profile and skin sensitisation data, 39 analogues remained. A final selection was made based on three approaches: expert judgment, chemical similarity or Local Lymph Node Assay data (LLNA). All read-across approaches supported a moderate potency. A POD derived from the LLNA EC3 of 3.6% was determined leading to a favourable NGRA conclusion and a maximum use concentration of 0.36%. This was supported by a traditional risk assessment based on the available animal data for resorcinol.

Use of human liver and EpiSkin™ S9 subcellular fractions as a screening assays to compare the in vitro hepatic and dermal metabolism of 47 cosmetics-relevant chemicals.

The abundance of xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes (XMEs) is different in the skin and liver; therefore, it is important to differentiate between liver and skin metabolism when applying the information to safety assessment of topically applied ingredients in cosmetics. Here, we have employed EpiSkin™ S9 and human liver S9 to investigate the organ-specific metabolic stability of 47 cosmetic-relevant chemicals. The rank order of the metabolic rate of six chemicals in primary human hepatocytes and liver S9 matched relatively well. XME pathways in liver S9 were also present in EpiSkin S9; however, the rate of metabolism tended to be lower in the latter. It was possible to rank chemicals into low-, medium- and high-clearance chemicals and compare rates of metabolism across chemicals with similar structures. The determination of the half-life for 21 chemicals was affected by one or more factors such as spontaneous reaction with cofactors or non-specific binding, but these technical issues could be accounted for in most cases. There were seven chemicals that were metabolized by liver S9 but not by EpiSkin S9: 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, resorcinol, cinnamyl alcohol and 2-acetylaminofluorene (slowly metabolized); and cyclophosphamide, benzophenone, and 6-methylcoumarin. These data support the use of human liver and EpiSkin S9 as screening assays to indicate the liver and skin metabolic stability of a chemical and to allow for comparisons across structurally similar chemicals. Moreover, these data can be used to estimate the systemic bioavailability and clearance of chemicals applied topically, which will ultimately help with the safety assessment of cosmetics ingredients.

Measurement of the penetration of 56 cosmetic relevant chemicals into and through human skin using a standardized protocol.

OECD test guideline 428 compliant protocol using human skin was used to test the penetration of 56 cosmetic-relevant chemicals. The penetration of finite doses (10 µL/cm2 ) of chemicals was measured over 24 hours. The dermal delivery (DD) (amount in the epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid [RF]) ranged between 0.03 ± 0.02 and 72.61 ± 8.89 µg/cm2 . The DD of seven chemicals was comparable with in vivo values. The DD was mainly accounted for by the amount in the RF, although there were some exceptions, particularly of low DD chemicals. While there was some variability due to cell outliers and donor variation, the overall reproducibility was very good. As six chemicals had to be applied in 100% ethanol due to low aqueous solubility, we compared the penetration of four chemicals with similar physicochemical properties applied in ethanol and phosphate-buffered saline. Of these, the DD of hydrocortisone was the same in both solvents, while the DD of propylparaben, geraniol and benzophenone was lower in ethanol. Some chemicals displayed an infinite dose kinetic profile; whereas, the cumulative absorption of others into the RF reflected the finite dosing profile, possibly due to chemical volatility, total absorption, chemical precipitation through vehicle evaporation or protein binding (or a combination of these). These investigations provide a substantial and consistent set of skin penetration data that can help improve the understanding of skin penetration, as well as improve the prediction capacity of in silico skin penetration models.

Efficacy and tolerability on melasma of a topical cosmetic product acting on melanocytes, fibroblasts and endothelial cells: a randomized comparative trial against 4% hydroquinone.

BACKGROUND: Recent data demonstrated that an altered basal membrane, activated melanocytes and secreted factors from keratinocytes but also fibroblasts and endothelial cells are involved in the pathophysiology of melasma. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the efficacy and tolerability on melasma of a new topical skin-lightening cosmetic product combination (CCP) targeting several factors identified to be involved in melasma pathogenesis compared to 4% hydroquinone (HQ). METHODS: Forty-three women with melasma were enrolled in a 12-week double-blind, randomized, parallel-group trial and treated with CCP or 4% HQ cream. Efficacy was evaluated with the modified Melasma Area Severity Index (mMASI) score and colorimetric change. Cutaneous tolerability and patient satisfaction were also investigated. RESULTS: The mMASI score decreased for both products from baseline and over the study period. At week 12, 90% of the subjects who received the combination products had an improvement in pigmentation vs. 79% with HQ. Similarly, both products significantly increased Individual Typological Angle parameters. For both measures, no statistically significant difference was observed between CCP and HQ in terms of change from baseline. CPP was very well tolerated. CONCLUSIONS: Cosmetic product combination is as effective as HQ in the management of facial dyspigmentation and represents a safe alternative.

Hispanic/Latinos and Skincare: Disparities in Product Development, Marketing, and Toxicity.

“Hispanic” and “Latino” (also known as Mestizo) describe a diverse racial and ethnic group, with a range of cultures, languages, and biological ancestry. It includes individuals of Mexican, Central-to-South American, and Spanish-Caribbean (eg, Cuban, Puerto Rican, and Dominican) descent.1 Individuals of Hispanic/Latino race and ethnicity represent a heterogenous group of people with different skin tones and Fitzpatrick phototypes. Hispanic/Latinos are the fastest growing population in the United States (US) - projected to increase from 55 million in 2014 to 119 million in 2060, an increase of 115%.2 By 2060, more than one-quarter (29%) of the US is projected to be Hispanic/Latino.2.

In vivo demonstration of immunologic cross-reactivity to octylisothiazolinone in patients primarily and strongly sensitized to methylisothiazolinone.

BACKGROUND: Notwithstanding that concomitant exposure to different isothiazolinone derivatives may result in concomitant sensitization, clinical and animal studies have suggested cross-reactivity between these derivatives, notably between methylisothiazolinone (MI) and octylisothiazolinone (OIT). OBJECTIVE: To investigate if patients sensitized to MI show cross-reactions to OIT and/or to benzisothiazolinone (BIT) by applying the concept of the re-test method. PATIENTS AND METHODS: From March to October 2019 consecutive patients were patch tested with MI 0.2% aqueous in duplicate at the two lower corners of both shoulder blades. Patients sensitized to MI, but not to OIT 0.1% petrolatum (pet.) nor to BIT 0.1% pet., were re-tested, 2 months later, with the latter two derivatives at the skin sites where the MI reactions had fully disappeared. RESULTS: Of 116 patients, 15 (13%) were sensitized to MI, eight of these not sensitized to BIT nor to OIT. Of these, seven patients, all (very) strongly sensitized to MI, were re-tested: five patients showed positive patch test reactions to OIT 0.1% pet.; one patient to OIT 0.1% pet. and BIT 0.1% pet.; and one other patient showed no reactions. CONCLUSION: This study suggests that patients primarily and strongly sensitized to MI may show immunologic cross-reactions to OIT, and to a far lesser extent to BIT.

Microalgae Encapsulation Systems for Food, Pharmaceutical and Cosmetics Applications.

Microalgae are microorganisms with a singular biochemical composition, including several biologically active compounds with proven pharmacological activities, such as anticancer, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, among others. These properties make microalgae an interesting natural resource to be used as a functional ingredient, as well as in the prevention and treatment of diseases, or cosmetic formulations. Nevertheless, natural bioactives often possess inherent chemical instability and/or poor solubility, which are usually associated with low bioavailability. As such, their industrial potential as a health-promoting substance might be severely compromised. In this context, encapsulation systems are considered as a promising and emerging strategy to overcome these shortcomings due to the presence of a surrounding protective layer. Diverse systems have already been reported in the literature for natural bioactives, where some of them have been successfully applied to microalgae compounds. Therefore, this review focuses on exploring encapsulation systems for microalgae biomass, their extracts, or purified bioactives for food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic purposes. Moreover, this work also covers the most common encapsulation techniques and types of coating materials used, along with the main findings regarding the beneficial effects of these systems.

Skin cleansing and topical product use in patients with epidermolysis bullosa: Results from a multicenter database.

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES: Epidermolysis bullosa (EB) comprises a group of inherited skin blistering diseases. There is currently no cure, and management includes skin protection and prevention of infection. To date, there has been no systematic investigation of home skin care practices among EB patients on a multicenter scale. METHODS: This cross-sectional, observational study included data collected from patients with EB enrolled in the Epidermolysis Bullosa Characterization and Clinical Outcomes Database (EBCCOD) who provided answers to a patient-directed questionnaire between January 1, 2017, and December 31, 2017. RESULTS: Of 202 respondents, 130 (64.4%) had dystrophic EB, 51 (25.2%) had EB simplex, 21 (7.4%) had junctional EB, 3 (1.5%) had Kindler syndrome, and 3 (1.5%) had an unspecified subtype. Seventy-eight patients reported cleansing in plain water only (39%). Of those who used an additive in their cleansing water, 75 (57%) added salt, 71 (54%) added bleach, 36 (27%) added vinegar, and 34 (26%) endorsed the use of an "other" additive (multiple additives possible). Reported concentrations of additives ranged widely from 0.002% sodium hypochlorite and 0.002% acetic acid solutions, which are thought to have negligible effects on microbes, to 0.09% sodium hypochlorite and 0.156% acetic acid, concentrations shown to be cytotoxic. One hundred eighty-eight patients answered questions regarding topical product use (93%). Of those, 131 reported topical antimicrobial use (70%). Mupirocin and bacitracin were the most commonly reported topical antibiotics (59, 58 [31.4%, 30.9%], respectively). CONCLUSIONS: These findings highlight the variety of skin care routines and frequent use of topical antimicrobials among EB patients and have potential implications for antibiotic resistance. The reported range of bleach and vinegar additives to cleansing water, including cytotoxic concentrations, emphasizes the need for clear and optimized skin cleansing recommendations.

Lycopene and Melatonin: Antioxidant Compounds in Cosmetic Formulations.

BACKGROUND: The use of antioxidants has become a common practice in the development of antiaging cosmetics. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing lycopene and melatonin antioxidants. METHOD: Thirty-six healthy women from 32 to 65 years were enrolled in this study. The study was carried out for 10 weeks, 2 preconditioning weeks with a control cream without antioxidants, and 8-week test with creams containing antioxidants in study. A multifunctional skin physiology monitor (Courage & Khazaka electronic GmbH®, Germany) was used to measure skin sebum content, hydration, elasticity, erythema index, and melanin index in 4 different regions of the face. RESULTS: There were significant differences between them.

Development of an emulgel for the treatment of rosacea using quality by design approach.

Objective: The aim of this study was to develop an emulgel for the treatment of rosacea, applying quality by design (QbD).Methods: An emulgel designed to release the active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), metronidazole and niacinamide, via an emollient formulation that favors residence time and attenuates facial redness would be an excellent vehicle to develop to treat rosacea. It was decided to design first a vehicle presenting the attributes established in the quality target product profile, and then, after selecting the best formulation, to load the APIs in it to optimize the final emulgel. A design of experiments was introduced to study the effect of formulation variables on quality attributes (adhesion, phase separation by mechanical stress and viscosity) of the emulgels. Response surface methodology and desirability functions were applied for data analysis. After optimization, the final emulgel was further characterized by assay and in vitro release of APIs, attenuation of facial redness, and compared to commercially available metronidazole products regarding API release.Results: The final emulgel gradually released both APIs, reaching approximately 88% within the first 4 h, and their profiles were well described by the Higuchi model. Only a light attenuation effect to conceal facial redness was achieved.Conclusions: A metronidazole and niacinamide emulgel, also providing cosmetic assistance, was developed using QbD. The emulgel releases metronidazole faster than the creams, but more gradually than the commercially available gel, providing a realistic time frame of drug delivery in accordance with the expected time of residence of the adhesive emulgel over the affected facial area.

Microneedle patch based on dissolving, detachable microneedle technology for improved skin quality - Part 1: ex vivo safety evaluation.

OBJECTIVE: The aim of the paper presented herein is the description and safety evaluation of the process of dissolution of an 86-microneedle patch composed of hyaluronic acid, when applied topically to human abdominal skin explants. Such explants were chosen to replace the inability of obtaining periorbital skin. In order to evaluate penetration and dissolution of the microneedles, we employed histochemical methods and a fluorescent dye FITC (fluorescein isothiocyanate). METHODS: Abdominoplasty human skin explants were treated with square microneedle patches with a 1.5-cm2 surface area, containing 86 microneedles and having 450 ± 23.5 µm in height with 1 mm interspacing between nearest neighbouring microneedles. Histological processing and staining for cell viability, FITC distributions and glycosaminoglycans were performed. The stained surface percentage for each treatment was compared to control untreated samples at given time points. A Mann-Whitney test was used to identify the difference between two populations (sites of skin samples punctured with stained and clear microneedles, respectively) at the given level of statistical significance (P < 0.05). RESULTS: The application of the MN patch to excised skin explants showed these microneedles to be non-invasive into the dermis of the skin. Skin puncturing with MN patches revealed 17 different sites of microneedle penetration immediately afterwards and 4 sites, 2 h later. Although there were some variances in the epidermal depth of penetration, these variances did not impact on cell viability. The hyaluronic acid-based microneedles having 450 µm in length penetrated the epidermis at an averaged depth by 26 µm without disrupting skin cell viability and without causing an inflammatory response. Hyaluronic acid could be detected in most of these penetration sites, with no diffusion into the dermis, which is important for cosmetic applications. FITC analysis uncovered fluorescein isothiocyanate distribution within microneedle insertion site, which remained steady after 2 and 6 h of experimentation. CONCLUSION: Using ex vivo tracer staining studies, we have shown that the evaluated microneedle applicator is capable of penetrating the skin epidermis and delivering substances embedded in the needle polymer matrix. In addition, the tested product was shown to be safe, which provides a broad perspective for delivering cosmetic and pharmaceutic agents.

OBJECTIF: Le but de cet article est de décrire et évaluer l'innocuité du processus de dissolution d'un patch de 86 micro-aiguilles composé d'acide hyaluronique, lorsqu'il est appliqué par voie topique sur des explants de peau abdominale humaine. De tels explants ont été choisis pour palier à l'impossibilité d'obtenir une peau périorbitaire. Afin d'évaluer la pénétration et la dissolution des micro-aiguilles, nous avons utilisé des méthodes histochimiques et un marqueur fluorescent FITC (isothiocyanate de fluorescéine). MÉTHODES: Les explants de la peau humaine de l'abdominoplastie ont été traités avec des patchs à microaiguilles, carrés d'une surface de 1,5 cm2, contenant 86 micro-aiguilles et ayant 450 ± 23,5 µm de hauteur avec 1 mm d'espacement entre les micro-aiguilles. Un traitement histologique et des colorations ont été réalisée pour observer la viabilité cellulaire et les glycosaminoglycanes. La diffusion de FITC a été observée en épifluorescence. Le pourcentage de surface colorée pour chaque traitement a été comparé à des échantillons témoins non traités à différents temps de cinétique. Un test de Mann-Whitney a été utilisé pour identifier la différence entre deux populations (sites de pénétration des micro-aiguilles et peau normale) avec une limite de significativité statistique de P < 0.05. RÉSULTATS: L'application du patch MN sur les explants de peau a montré que ces micro-aiguilles ne Pénétraient pas dans le derme de la peau. L'application cutanée des patchs MN a révélé 17 sites différents de pénétration de micro-aiguille immédiatement après l'application et 4 sites, 2 heures plus tard. Bien qu'il y ait eu quelques variations dans la profondeur de pénétration épidermique, ces variations n'ont pas eu d'impact sur la viabilité cellulaire. Les micro-aiguilles à base d'acide hyaluronique d'une longueur de 450 µm ont pénétré l'épiderme à une profondeur moyenne de 26 µm sans perturber la viabilité des cellules de la peau et sans provoquer de réponse inflammatoire. L'acide hyaluronique composant les micro-aiguilles a été détecté sur la plupart de ces sites de pénétration, sans diffusion dans le derme, ce qui est important pour les applications cosmétiques. L'analyse FTIC a révélé une distribution d'isothiocyanate de fluorescéine dans le site d'insertion de micro-aiguille qui est restée stable après 2 et 6 heures d'expérimentation. CONCLUSION: En utilisant des études de coloration de traceurs sur explant de peau humaine ex vivo, nous avons montré que l'applicateur de micro-aiguille est capable de pénétrer l'épiderme et de délivrer des substances incorporées dans la matrice polymère de l'aiguille. De plus, le produit testé s'est avéré sûr et bien toléré, ce qui ouvre une large perspective pour l'administration d'agents cosmétiques et pharmaceutique.