Enzymes for dermatological use.

Skin is the ultimate barrier between body and environment and prevents water loss and penetration of pathogens and toxins. Internal and external stressors, such as ultraviolet radiation (UVR), can damage skin integrity and lead to disorders. Therefore, skin health and skin ageing are important concerns and increased research from cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors aims to improve skin conditions and provide new anti-ageing treatments. Biomolecules, compared to low molecular weight drugs and cosmetic ingredients, can offer high levels of specificity. Topically applied enzymes have been investigated to treat the adverse effects of sunlight, pollution and other external agents. Enzymes, with a diverse range of targets, present potential for dermatological use such as antioxidant enzymes, proteases and repairing enzymes. In this review, we discuss enzymes for dermatological applications and the challenges associated in this growing field.

Discovery of (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide among N-substituted cinnamamide derivatives as a novel cosmetic ingredient for hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation disorders may result from inappropriate melanin deposition and/or excessive melanin synthesis. They are classified mainly as aesthetic problems, but they can significantly affect human health by decreasing self-esteem. There are available only limited treatment options for hyperpigmentation disorder, among others, cosmetic products applied topically. Depigmenting ingredients were found to be ineffective and characterized by various side effects. As a result, many efforts are made to discover novel, potent, and safe melanogenesis inhibitors for possible use in topical cosmetic depigmenting formulations. Cinnamic acid derivatives constitute a widely tested group for that purpose. This article reports research in the group of N-alkyl cinnamamide derivatives (un)substituted in phenyl ring. Among tested series, (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide (compound 21) showed the most promising inhibitory properties in mushroom tyrosinase assay (IC50 = 36.98 ± 1.07 µM for monophenolase activity, IC50 = 146.71 ± 16.82 µM for diphenolase activity) and melanin production inhibition in B16F10 mouse melanoma cell line at concentration 6.25 µM resulting probably from decreasing of Tyr, Mitf, Tyrp-1, and Tyrp-2 genes expression. This compound also showed melanin production inhibitory properties in pigmented reconstructed human epidermis when used in 1 % and 2 % solutions in 50 % PEG400. In vitro evaluation of its safety profile showed no cytotoxicity to human keratinocytes HaCaT, human skin fibroblasts BJ, and human primary epidermal melanocytes HEMa, no mutagenicity in the Ames test, no genotoxicity in micronucleus test, no phototoxicity, as well as no skin irritation potential tested in PEG400 solution. This compound was also shown to penetrate across the epidermis to reach the possible site of action. The performed research led to classify (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide as a novel potential depigmenting cosmetic ingredient.

Electroencephalography as an objective method for assessing subjective emotions during the application of cream.

OBJECTIVE: To compare emotional responses elicited by four cosmetic products on different sensory modalities (smell, visual, and touch), and analyze the link between objective instrumental analysis results and subjective evaluation of participants occurring within dimensional valence-arousal model of emotions. METHODS: In this study, four cream products exhibiting variations in olfactory perception, visual appearance and perception usability were selected. Electroencephalography (EEG) and a subjective emotion scale were used to assess participants' emotional responses during the sensory experience of utilizing the creams. RESULTS: The study revealed that the objective emotional valence and arousal of different cream products exhibited certain variations at distinct stages of usage. The trend of valence differences induced by different products measured by EEG at the same stage was almost as same as measured by subjective evaluation. The correspondence between the valence measured by EEG closely approximated that obtained through subjective evaluation across various products at distinct stages of usage. These findings demonstrate a significant correlation between EEG-based valence and subjective valence, however, no such relationship was observed for arousal. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrates the feasibility of using EEG as a method to assess emotions elicited by various stages of cosmetics application, including smelling, looking, rubbing, and afterfeel. This technique serves as a valuable supplement to traditional methods for examining emotional responses by providing more objective evidence.

Enhancement of Exfoliating Effects through the Novel Cosmetic Ingredient Mandelic acid_Carnitine Ion-Pairing Complex.

PURPOSE: This study aimed to develop a novel exfoliating material with high efficacy and low irritation by synthesizing the Mandelic acid_Carnitine ion pairing complex (M_C complex) and evaluating its exfoliating properties. Additionally, the study assessed the skin improvement effects of the M_C complex through clinical evaluations. METHODS: The M_C complex was synthesized in a 1:1 molar ratio of Mandelic acid and Carnitine. Structural characterization was performed using dynamic light scattering and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. Exfoliating efficacy was evaluated on porcine skin, and clinical assessments were conducted on human subjects to measure various skin improvement parameters. RESULTS: The formation of the M_C complex was confirmed through particle size analysis, zeta-potential measurements, and FT-IR spectroscopy. The M_C complex demonstrated superior exfoliating efficacy compared to Mandelic acid alone, especially at pH 4.5. Clinical evaluations showed significant improvements in blackheads, whiteheads, pore volume, depth, density, count, and affected area, as well as skin texture. No adverse reactions were observed. CONCLUSION: The M_C complex exhibits high exfoliating efficacy and minimal irritation, making it a promising cosmetic ingredient for improving skin health. These findings support its potential as a low-irritation exfoliating material under mildly acidic conditions, contributing to overall skin health enhancement.

The effect of ceramides on skin absorption by Raman spectroscopy.

INTRODUCTION: Ceramides are essential epidermal constituents that play a critical role in skin moisturization treatment as a raw material in cosmetics formulation. Recently, ceramides have been known to be frequently applied in various cosmetic formulations. Despite ceramide's beneficial characteristics, academic research regarding ceramides and their skin absorption remains insufficient. Therefore, our study conducted clinical research employing Raman spectroscopy to investigate the effects of ceramides on skin absorption to enhance the understanding of ceramides' dermatological functionality and their topical application in cosmetics science. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Twenty healthy individuals with dry skin have participated in this clinical trial. In this double-arm designed trial, the test group received an investigational product with ceramides (5000 ppm) and a control group received an investigational product without the ceramides while all other components remained identical. The subjects visited the clinical research center and acclimatized for 30 min in constant humidity and temperature for equilibrium, subsequently conducting a measurement. Before the trial, the research subject's target site (lower arm area) was kept clean, devoid of any cosmetic administering 24 h before the trial when investigational product was topically applied. RESULTS: Our findings with Raman spectroscopy statistically demonstrate that skin absorption amount, speed and depth for both groups improved overall (p < 0.05) after administration of the investigational product. Notably, the test group received an investigational product with ceramides (5000 ppm) indicating superior effectiveness across all parameters compared to a control group from comparison analysis of each parameter (p < 0.05). CONCLUSION: This study concludes that ceramide-containing cosmetics provide a beneficial effect on skin absorption via visual and statistical results of Raman spectroscopy analysis.

Novel Cosmetic Ingredient CS-AA Polyion Complex and Skin Moisturizing Effect.

PURPOSE: The study explored the enhanced skin moisturizing capabilities and moisture retention effects achieved by forming a polyion complex using sulfated glycosaminoglycan (GAG), specifically chondroitin sulfate (CS), and amino acids (AA) such as glutamine (Q) and arginine (R). The overall hydration effect of this CS-AA complex was examined. METHODS: After analyzing the CS-AA polyion complex structure using spectroscopic methods, the ex vivo moisture retention ability was assessed under dry conditions using porcine skin samples. Additionally, the efficacy of the CS-AA polyion complex in reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improving skin hydration was evaluated on human subjects using a digital evaporimeter and a corneometer, respectively. RESULTS: Validating a systematic reduction in particle size, the following order was observed: CS > CS/AA simple mixture > CS-AA complex based on dynamic light scattering (DLS) and transmission electron microscopy (TEM) analysis. Furthermore, observations revealed that the CS-AA complex exhibits negligible surface charge. Additionally, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) analysis demonstrated a distinct peak shift in the complex, confirming the successful formation of the CS-AA complex. Subsequently, the water-holding effect through porcine skin was assessed, revealing a notable improvement in moisture retention (weight loss) for the CS-Q complex: 40.6% (1 h), 20.5% (2 h), and 18.7% (4 h) compared to glycerin. Similarly, the CS-R complex demonstrated enhancements of 50.2% (1 h), 37.5% (2 h), and 33% (4 h) compared to glycerin. Furthermore, TEWL improvement efficacy on human skin demonstrated approximately 25% improvement for both the CS-Q complex and CS-R complex, surpassing the modest 12.5% and 18% improvements witnessed with water and glycerin applications, respectively. Finally, employing a corneometer, hydration changes in the skin were monitored over 4 weeks. Although CS alone exhibited nominal alterations, the CS-Q complex and CS-R complex showed a significant increase in moisture levels after 4 weeks of application. CONCLUSION: In this study, polyion complexes were successfully formed between CS, a sulfated GAG, and AA. Comparisons with glycerin, a well-known moisturizing agent, confirmed that the CS-AA complex exhibits superior moisturizing effects in various aspects. These findings suggest that the CS-AA complex is a more effective ingredient than CS or AA alone in terms of efficacy.

Skin Anti-Aging Potential through Whitening and Wrinkle Improvement Using Fermented Oil Derived from Hermetia illucens Larvae.

As the aging population increases, so has interest among emerging seniors in anti-aging ingredients that enhance functionality by incorporating fermentation with natural materials. In this study, fermentation conditions for enhancing the functionality of Hermetia illucens larvae oil (HIO) were established, and its anti-aging potential was evaluated. First, the lipase activity and amount of lipid degradation products of the fermentation strains were measured in order to select Lactobacillus gasseri and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum as the strains with high fermentation ability. A fermentation period of 28 d and a fermentation method that uses only the strain culture medium were established by evaluating the fermentation degree after fermenting HIO with the selected strains. The whitening functionality test results of fermented HIO (FHIO) showed an increase of approximately 20% in extracellular tyrosinase inhibition activity compared with HIO. Additionally, within melanocytes, there was a 12% increase in tyrosinase inhibition activity and a 26% enhancement in melanin production inhibition ability. For wrinkle-improving functionality, it was observed that, for fibroblasts, there was a 10% increase in collagen production, a 9% increase in collagenase inhibition ability, and an 8% increase in elastase inhibition ability. Therefore, FHIO was confirmed to be an effective cosmetic raw material, with high functionality for anti-aging within the senior generation. This is achieved through increased whitening and wrinkle-improving functionality.

Annurca Apple Oleolite as Functional Ingredient for the Formulation of Cosmetics with Skin-Antiaging Activity.

The identification of natural remedies for the management of the skin aging process is an increasingly growing issue. In this context, ursolic acid (UA), a ubiquitous molecule, mainly contained in Annurca apple (AA) fruit, has demonstrated valuable cosmetic potential. To this end, in the current study, the AA oleolite (AAO, extract in sunflower oil containing 784.40 ± 7.579 µg/mL of UA) was evaluated to inhibit porcine elastase enzymatic reactions through a validated spectrophotometric method. AAO has shown a valuable capacity to contrast the elastase enzyme with a calculated IC50 of 212.76 mg/mL, in comparison to UA (IC50 of 135.24 µg/mL) pure molecules and quercetin (IC50 of 72.47 µg/mL) which are used as positive controls. In this context and in view of the valuable antioxidant potential of AAO, its topical formulation with 2.5% (w/w) AAO was tested in a placebo-controlled, double-blind, two-arm clinical study on 40 volunteers. Our results indicated that after 28 days of treatment, a significant reduction of the nasolabial fold (-7.2 vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001) and forehead wrinkles (-5.3 vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001) were registered in combination with a valuable improvement of the viscoelastic skin parameters, where skin pliability/firmness (R0) and gross elasticity (R2) were significantly ameliorated (-13% vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001 for R0 and +12% vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001 for R2). Finally, considering the positive correlation between skin elasticity and hydration, the skin moisture was evaluated through the estimation of Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin conductance.

Analysis of Active Components and Transcriptome of Freesia refracta Callus Extract and Its Effects against Oxidative Stress and Wrinkles in Skin.

Freesia refracta (FR), a perennial flower of the Iris family (Iridaceae), is widely used in cosmetics despite limited scientific evidence of its skin benefits and chemical composition, particularly of FR callus extract (FCE). This study identified biologically active compounds in FCE and assessed their skin benefits, focusing on anti-aging. FR calli were cultured, extracted with water at 40 °C, and analyzed using Centrifugal Partition Chromatography (CPC), Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR), and HCA, revealing key compounds, namely nicotinamide and pyroglutamic acid. FCE significantly increased collagen I production by 52% in normal and aged fibroblasts and enhanced fibroblast-collagen interaction by 37%. An in vivo study of 43 female volunteers demonstrated an 11.1% reduction in skin roughness and a 2.3-fold increase in collagen density after 28 days of cream application containing 3% FCE. Additionally, the preservation tests of cosmetics containing FCE confirmed their stability over 12 weeks. These results suggest that FCE offers substantial anti-aging benefits by enhancing collagen production and fibroblast-collagen interactions. These findings highlighted the potential of FCE in cosmetic applications, providing significant improvements in skin smoothness and overall appearance. This study fills a gap in the scientific literature regarding the skin benefits and chemical composition of FR callus extract, supporting its use in the development of effective cosmeceuticals.

Formulating Sustainable Emulsions: Mandelic Acid and Essential Oils as Natural Preservatives.

Emulsion products with natural antimicrobials are becoming increasingly popular for topical application. Mandelic Acid is interesting in cosmetics due to its potent exfoliating properties, which have driven advancements in skincare technologies. Essential oils have various properties, of which the most useful in cosmetics are those that do not cause irritation, smell pleasant, and have other beneficial properties such as antimicrobial effects. Emulsions with Mandelic Acid and essential oils from Satureja montana, Lemongrass, and Litsea cubeba were formulated and microbiologically tested for their preservative effectiveness. The effect of the treatments on skin condition was monitored by non-invasive diagnostic methods, such as hydration, transepidermal water loss, and pH value. Sensory analysis revealed that the matrix containing Mandelic Acid alone or combined with Litsea Cubeba Oil was the best-performing formulation, consistent with the compliant results of antimicrobial efficacy. The topical form of this cosmetic product has demonstrated excellent preservative activity and desirable biophysical efficacy on the skin.

Probing the effectiveness of barrier creams against human skin penetration of nickel powder.

OBJECTIVE: Barrier creams (BCs) are marketed as locally applied medical devices or cosmetic products to protect the skin from exposure to chemicals and irritants. Generally, the mechanism of action of such products is mainly due to the formation of a superficial thin film between the skin and the irritant or sensitizer, thus reducing or totally blocking the cutaneous penetration of such agents. Specifically, studies focusing on the effectiveness of commercial protective creams to prevent nickel cutaneous penetration are extremely scarce. The aim of the current work, therefore, is to evaluate the protective role of a commercially available barrier cream for nickel and compare the results with a simple moisturizing, following exposure to Ni powder. METHODS: Marketed BCs were evaluated and tested. Human skin absorption of Ni was studied in vitro using static Franz diffusion cells. RESULTS: Our results demonstrate that the application of both formulations caused a reduction of Ni inside the skin (8.00 ± 3.35 µg cm-2 for the barrier cream and 22.6 ± 12.6 µg cm-2 for the general moisturizing product), with the specialized barrier cream being statistically (p = 0.015) more efficient on forming a protective barrier, thus evidencing the importance of some ingredients in such formulations on the nickel dermal accumulation. CONCLUSIONS: The composition of the formulations based on film-forming or chelating agents may play an imperative role in reducing the cutaneous penetration of Ni.

OBJECTIF: Les crèmes de barrière (CB) sont commercialisées en tant que dispositifs médicaux ou produits cosmétiques appliqués localement pour protéger la peau contre l'exposition aux produits chimiques et irritants. En général, le mécanisme d'action de ces produits est principalement dû à la formation d'un film mince superficiel entre la peau et l'irritant ou le sensibilisant, réduisant ainsi ou bloquant totalement la pénétration cutanée de ces agents. Plus précisément, les études portant sur l'efficacité des crèmes protectrices commercialisées pour prévenir la pénétration cutanée du nickel sont extrêmement rares. L'objectif du projet en cours est donc d'évaluer le rôle protecteur d'une crème barrière disponible dans le commerce contre le nickel et de comparer les résultats à un simple hydratant après une exposition à la poudre de Ni. MÉTHODES: Des CB commercialisées ont été évaluées et testées. L'absorption cutanée du Ni dans la peau humaine a été étudiée in vitro à l'aide de cellules de diffusion statiques de Franz. RÉSULTATS: Nos résultats démontrent que l'application des deux formulations a entraîné une réduction du taux de Ni à l'intérieur de la peau (8,00 ± 3,35 µg·cm-2 pour la crème barrière et 22,6 ± 12,6 µg·cm-2 pour le produit hydratant ordinaire), la crème barrière spécialisée étant statistiquement (p = 0,015) plus efficace pour former une barrière protectrice, démontrant ainsi l'importance de certains ingrédients dans ces formulations sur l'accumulation dermique du nickel. CONCLUSIONS: La composition des formulations basées sur des agents de formation de film ou de chélation peut jouer un rôle nécessaire pour réduire la pénétration cutanée du Ni.

A study of anti-wrinkle functions and improvement of cream with Phaseolus angularis.

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight accelerates skin ageing, which is followed by harsh, thick, dry and loose conditions. One of the most demonstrative symptoms is deep wrinkles induced by skin barrier disruption. Our previous research showed that Phaseolus angularis seed extract (PASE) effectively inhibits skin ageing through UVB protection in HaCaT cells by suppressing skin damage. However, its efficacy has not been evaluated in clinical trials so far. PASE cream's effectiveness was initially tested on the artificial skin model, revealing an increase in filaggrin and defence against skin damage. Based on these results, in this single-centred, randomized, double-blind study, we investigated the anti-ageing effect of PASE in human eye wrinkle areas. For these 21 healthy adult women aged 30 to 59, a PASE cream was applied to the right eye wrinkle area and a placebo to the left eye wrinkle area twice a day (morning and evening) for 12 weeks. The change in thick, deep crease wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed by visual evaluation, skin measurements and a questionnaire. As a result, the surface roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), average roughness (R3), smoothness depth (R4) and arithmetic mean roughness (R5) values in the group using the PASE cream all decreased. Particularly, R1, R4 and R5 significantly decreased by 18.1%, 18.6% and 25.0%, respectively. Subjects who applied PASE cream also experienced an improvement in skin moisture nearly twice the time compared to the placebo group. In addition, no participants reported side effects. Our study showed that PASE cream led to clinically significant levels of wrinkle improvement. In conclusion, as PASE is a natural, safe food with no side effects, it can be a good resource for natural anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics in the future.

L'exposition chronique aux rayons ultraviolets (UV) du soleil accélère le vieillissement cutané, qui provoque un épaississement et un assèchement de la peau et la rend plus lâche. La présence de rides profondes induites par la rupture de la barrière cutanée en constitue l'un des symptômes les plus manifestes. Lors d'études précédentes, nous nous sommes rendu compte que l'extrait de graines de Phaseolus angularis (PASE) inhibait efficacement le vieillissement de la peau en assurant la protection anti­UVB des cellules HaCaT grâce à la suppression des lésions cutanées. Cependant, son efficacité n'a pas été évaluée lors d'essais cliniques à ce jour. L'efficacité de la crème PASE a d'abord été testée sur le modèle de peau artificielle, sur laquelle elle a fait augmenter les taux de filaggrine et assuré une défense contre les lésions cutanées. Sur la base de ces résultats, dans cette étude unicentrique, randomisée et en double aveugle, nous avons étudié l'effet anti­âge de la PASE chez l'humain au niveau des rides proches de l'œil. Pour ces 21 femmes adultes en bonne santé âgées de 30 à 59 ans, une crème PASE a été appliquée sur la zone de rides de l'œil droit et un placebo sur la zone de rides de l'œil gauche deux fois par jour (matin et soir) pendant 12 semaines. La modification des rides profondes et épaisses autour des yeux a été confirmée par une évaluation visuelle, des mesures cutanées et un questionnaire. Il a été découvert que les valeurs de rugosité de surface (R1), de rugosité maximale (R2), de rugosité moyenne (R3), de profondeur de douceur (R4) et de moyenne arithmétique (R5) dans le groupe à l'aide de la crème PASE avaient toutes diminué. En particulier, R1, R4 et R5 ont significativement diminué de 18,1 %, de 18,6 % et de 25,0 %, respectivement. Les patients qui ont appliqué la crème PASE ont également présenté une amélioration de l'hydratation de la peau presque deux fois supérieure à celle du groupe placebo. En outre, aucun participant n'a signalé d'effets secondaires. Notre étude a montré que la crème PASE entraînait des niveaux cliniquement significatifs d'amélioration des rides. En conclusion, comme le PASE est un aliment naturel, sûr et dépourvu d'effets secondaires, elle peut constituer une bonne ressource pour les cosmétiques fonctionnels naturels antirides à l'avenir.

Cosmetic application of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K.

OBJECTIVE: The Amazon has a rich biodiversity where many different plant species can be found. This diversity is an important source of bioactive substances, mainly due to the different structural components of their phytometabolites. Research for natural products is a strategy for the development of new agents in therapeutic applications, especially cosmetic applications, that have better pharmacological potential. Within this perspective, the objective of the study was to investigate the cosmetic application (anti-aging potential) of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K - (SBEBE), popularly known as the Brazil nut tree, here called SBEBE, a noble plant species of the Amazon that is rich in selenium. METHODS: Enzymatic, glycation, proliferation, cell-healing, collagen quantification, toxicity and genotoxicity assays were used. RESULTS: Among the enzymes involved in the extracellular matrix of the skin, SBEBE was able to inhibit only elastase (62.67 ± 3.75) when compared to the standard sivelestat (89.04 ± 0.53), and the extract was also able to inhibit both the oxidative and the non-oxidative pathway. When cell toxicity in fibroblasts (MRC-5) and keratinocytes (HACAT) was evaluated, SBEBE did not present toxicity in 24 h of incubation. After this period, the extract showed average cytotoxicity in 48 and 72 h, but not enough to reach the concentration of 50% of MRC-5 fibroblasts. In the trypan blue assay, the extract promoted fibroblast proliferation in 24, 48 and 72 h of incubation, which was evaluated through exponential cell growth, with emphasis mainly on the lowest concentration with results higher than the standard. When the cell healing capacity was evaluated, in 48 h of exposure to fibroblast, SBEBE was able to induce a cell carpet (cell film) in the cell monolayer scratch assay. CONCLUSIONS: SBEBE stimulated collagen production at all concentrations tested. In the alkaline comet assay, at the lowest concentration, the extract did not induce DNA damage when compared to the reference drug doxorubicin. This study proved that SBEBE extract can be considered an ally in the treatment of skin anti-ageing as a possible biotechnological, phytocosmetic product.

OBJECTIF: L'Amazonie possède une riche biodiversité ou l'on trouve de nombreuses espèces végétales différentes. Cette diversité constitue une source importante de substances bioactives, principalement en raison des différents composants structurels de leurs phytométabolites. La recherche de produits naturels est une stratégie de développement de nouveaux agents à applications thérapeutiques, notamment cosmétiques, présentant un meilleur potentiel pharmacologique. Dans cette perspective, l'objectif de l'étude était d'étudier l'application cosmétique (potentiel anti­âge) de l'extrait d'écorce de tige de Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K ­ (SBEBE), communément connu sous le nom de noix du Brésil, ici appelé SBEBE, un arbre noble, espèce végétale d'Amazonie riche en sélénium. MÉTHODES: Des tests enzymatiques, de glycation, de prolifération, de guérison cellulaire, de quantification du collagène, de toxicité et de génotoxicité ont été utilisés. RÉSULTATS: Parmi les enzymes impliquées dans la matrice extracellulaire de la peau, le SBEBE était capable d'inhiber uniquement l'élastase (62,67 +­ 3,75) par rapport au sivelestat standard (89,04 +­ 0,53), et l'extrait était également capable d'inhiber à la fois la voie oxydative et non­oxydative. Lorsque la toxicité cellulaire dans les fibroblastes (MRC­5) et les kératinocytes (HACAT) a été évaluée, SBEBE n'a présenté aucune toxicité en 24 heures d'incubation. Après cette période, l'extrait a montré une cytotoxicité moyenne en 48 et 72 h, mais pas suffisamment pour atteindre la concentration de 50 % de fibroblastes MRC­5. Dans le test au bleu trypan, l'extrait a favorisé la prolifération des fibroblastes en 24, 48 et 72 heures d'incubation, qui a été évaluée par une croissance cellulaire exponentielle, en mettant l'accent principalement sur la concentration la plus faible avec des résultats supérieurs à la norme. Lorsque la capacité de guérison cellulaire a été évaluée, en 48 heures d'exposition aux fibroblastes, SBEBE a pu induire un tapis cellulaire (film cellulaire) dans le test de grattage de la monocouche cellulaire. CONCLUSIONS: SBEBE a stimulé la production de collagène à toutes les concentrations testées. Dans le test alcalin des comètes, à la concentration la plus faible, l'extrait n'a pas induit de dommages à l'ADN par rapport au médicament de référence, la doxorubicine. Cette étude a prouvé que l'extrait de SBEBE peut être considéré comme un allié dans le traitement anti­âge cutané en tant que possible produit biotechnologique et phytocosmétique.

Topical application of retinyl propionate, 4 hexyl resorcinol, and niacinamide reverses molecular and clinical features of ageing.

OBJECTIVE: Topical tretinoin is the mainstay of treatment for photoageing, despite the risk of skin irritation. Cosmetic combination anti-ageing formulations may offer similar efficacy to tretinoin, while improving on tolerability. We aim to demonstrate facial appearance benefits of a novel triple-active cosmetic formulation containing 4-hexylresorcinol, retinyl propionate, and niacinamide and to identify transcriptomic biomarkers underpinning these benefits. METHODS: A cosmetic prototype formulation containing 4-hexylresorcinol, retinyl propionate, and niacinamide was evaluated ex vivo and in a clinical study. For ex vivo experiments, the cosmetic formulation was applied for 3 days to healthy surgical discard skin from female donors aged 31-51 years, with tissues harvested for gene expression and histologic analyses. In the clinical study, females aged 47-66 years with moderate-to-severe overall visual photodamage on the face applied either topical 0.02% tretinoin or the cosmetic formulation to the face for 16 weeks and to forearms for 1 week, with forearm biopsies taken for gene expression analyses. Visual grading for facial photodamage and VISIA-CR images was taken throughout the clinical study. Safety was visually assessed during site visits, and adverse event monitoring was conducted throughout. RESULTS: Gene expression analyses in both studies revealed modulation of pathways associated with skin rejuvenation, with several genes of interest identified due to being implicated in ageing and differentially expressed following the application of the cosmetic formulation. Reversal of a consensus skin ageing gene signature was observed with the cosmetic formulation and tretinoin in the ex vivo and clinical studies. Both the cosmetic formulation and tretinoin clinically improved the overall appearance of photoageing, crow's feet, lines, wrinkles, and pores. Adverse event reporting showed that the cosmetic formulation caused less skin irritation than tretinoin. CONCLUSION: In a double-blind clinical study, the novel triple-active cosmetic combination formulation improved the visual appearance of photoageing similarly to prescription tretinoin. The cosmetic formulation and tretinoin reversed a consensus gene signature associated with ageing. Together with adverse event reporting, these results suggest that the cosmetic formulation may be a well-tolerated and efficacious alternative to tretinoin for improving the visual features of photoageing.

OBJECTIF: Le trétinoine topique est le pilier du traitement du photovieillissement, malgré le risque d'irritation cutanée. Les formulations cosmétiques combinés anti­âge peuvent offrir une efficacité similaire à la trétinoine, tout en améliorant la tolérance. Notre objectif est de démontrer les avantages esthétiques pour l'apparence du visage d'une nouvelle formulation cosmétique triple active contenant du 4­hexylrésorcinol, du rétinyl propionate et de la niacinamide, et d'identifier les biomarqueurs transcriptomiques sous­jacents à ces avantages. MÉTHODES: Une formulation cosmétique prototype contenant du 4­hexylrésorcinol, du rétinyl propionate et de la niacinamide a été évaluée ex vivo et lors d'une étude clinique. Pour les expériences ex vivo, la formulation cosmétique a été appliquée pendant 3 jours sur des peaux saines issues de donatrices âgées de 31 à 51 ans, avec prélèvement de tissus pour l'analyse de l'expression génique et l'histologie. Dans l'étude clinique, des femmes âgées de 47 à 66 ans présentant un photovieillissement visuel global modéré a sévère sur le visage ont appliqué soit du trétinoine topique à 0.02%, soit la formulation cosmétique sur le visage pendant 16 semaines et sur les avant­bras pendant 1 semaine, avec des biopsies d'avant­bras prélevées pour l'analyse de l'expression génique. L'évaluation visuelle du photovieillissement facial et les images VISIA­CR ont été réalisées tout au long de l'étude clinique. La sécurité a été évaluée visuellement lors des visites sur site, et une surveillance des événements indésirables a été effectuée. RÉSULTATS: Les analyses de l'expression génique dans les deux études ont révélé une modulation des voies associées au rajeunissement cutané, avec plusieurs gènes d'intérêts identifiés en raison de leur implication dans le vieillissement et de leur expression différentielle suite à l'application de la formulation cosmétique. Une inversion de la signature génique du vieillissement cutané consensuelle a été observée avec la formulation cosmétique et la trétinoine dans les études ex vivo et cliniques. La formulation cosmétique et la trétinoine ont toutes deux amélioré cliniquement l'apparence globale du photovieillissement, des pattes d'oie, des ridules, des rides et des pores. Les rapports sur les événements indésirables ont montré que la formulation cosmétique provoquait moins d'irritation cutanée que la trétinoine. CONCLUSION: Dans une étude clinique en double aveugle, la nouvelle formulation cosmétique triple active a amélioré l'apparence visuelle du photovieillissement de manière similaire à la trétinoine sur ordonnance. La formulation cosmétique et la trétinoine ont inversé une signature génique consensuelle associée au vieillissement. En tenant compte des rapports sur les événements indésirables, ces résultats suggèrent que la formulation cosmétique pourrait constituer une alternative bien tolérée et efficace à la trétinoine pour améliorer les caractéristiques visuelles du photovieillissement.

Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies.

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.

Skin Microbiota and the Cosmetic Industry.

Skin harbors an important microbial ecosystem - the skin microbiota that is in homeostasis with its host and is beneficial for human health. Cosmetic products have the potential to interfere with this microbial community; therefore their impact should be assessed. The aim of this review is to highlight the importance of skin microbiota in the cosmetic industry. Several studies determined that cosmetic ingredients have the potential to disrupt the skin microbiota equilibrium leading to the development of skin diseases and dysregulation of immune response. These studies led their investigation by using different methodologies and models, concluding that methods must be chosen according to the aim of the study, the skin site to be evaluated, and the target population of the cosmetics. Overall, it is crucial to test the impact of cosmetics in the skin microbiota and to stablish standard procedures, as well as specific criteria that allow to classify a cosmetic product as skin microbiota friendly.

Marine Algal Polyphenols as Skin Protective Agents: Current Status and Future Prospectives.

The skin is the outermost anatomical barrier, which plays a vital role in the maintenance of internal homeostasis and protection against physical, chemical, and biological detractors. Direct contact with various stimuli leads to several physiological changes that are ultimately important for the growth of the cosmetic industry. Due to the consequences of using synthetic compounds in skincare and cosmeceutical-related industries, the pharmaceutical and scientific communities have recently shifted their focus to natural ingredients. The nutrient-rich value of algae, which are some of the most interesting organisms in marine ecosystems, has attracted attention. Secondary metabolites isolated from seaweeds are potential candidates for a wide range of economic applications, including food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics. An increasing number of studies have focused on polyphenol compounds owing to their promising biological activities against oxidation, inflammation, allergies, cancers, melanogenesis, aging, and wrinkles. This review summarizes the potential evidence of the beneficial properties and future perspectives of using marine macroalgae-derived polyphenolic compounds for advancing the cosmetic industry.

Comprehensive Phytochemical Analysis and Bioactivity Evaluation of Padina boergesenii: Unveiling Its Prospects as a Promising Cosmetic Component.

Marine macroalgae, such as Padina boergesenii, are gaining recognition in the cosmetics industry as valuable sources of natural bioactive compounds. This study aimed to investigate the biochemical profile of P. boergesenii and evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS), and high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry quadrupole time-of-flight (HRLCMS QTOF) analyses were employed to assess the functional groups, phycocompounds, and beneficial compounds present in P. boergesenii. Pigment estimation, total phenol and protein content determination, DPPH antioxidant analysis, and tyrosinase inhibition assay were conducted to evaluate the extracts' ability to counteract oxidative stress and address hyperpigmentation concerns. Elemental composition and amino acid quantification were determined using inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and HRLCMS, respectively. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed diverse functional groups, including halo compounds, alcohols, esters, amines, and acids. GCMS analysis identified moisturizing, conditioning, and anti-aging compounds such as long-chain fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, and hydrocarbon derivatives. HRLCMS QTOF analysis revealed phenolic compounds, fatty acid derivatives, peptides, terpenoids, and amino acids with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-nourishing properties. Elemental analysis indicated varying concentrations of elements, with silicon (Si) being the most abundant and copper (Cu) being the least abundant. The total phenol content was 86.50 µg/mL, suggesting the presence of antioxidants. The total protein content was 113.72 µg/mL, indicating nourishing and rejuvenating effects. The ethanolic extract exhibited an IC50 value of 36.75 µg/mL in the DPPH assay, indicating significant antioxidant activity. The methanolic extract showed an IC50 value of 42.784 µg/mL. Furthermore, P. boergesenii extracts demonstrated 62.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. This comprehensive analysis underscores the potential of P. boergesenii as an effective cosmetic ingredient for enhancing skin health. Given the increasing use of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics, further exploration of P. boergesenii's potential in the cosmetics industry is warranted to leverage its valuable properties.

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents.

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

Production and Partial Characterization of Bioactive Compounds from Underutilized Marine Bioresources for a Cosmetic Formulation: Cytotoxicity and Bioactivity Evaluation.

Hydrolyzed collagen, glycogen, and hyaluronic acid, obtained through the biotechnological valorization of underutilized marine bioresources, fulfill cosmetic industry requirements for sustainable products produced under circular economy principles. Hydrolyzed collagen was obtained by hydrolyzing blue shark collagen with papain and ultrafiltration. Glycogen was isolated from industrial mussel cooking wastewaters through ultrafiltration, precipitation, and selective polysaccharide separation. Hyaluronic acid was produced by fermentation, purification, and depolymerization. The main objective was to test the feasibility of including these three biomolecules in a cosmetic formulation as bioactive compounds. For this, the in vitro irritant potential of the three ingredients and also that of the cosmetic formulation was assayed according to the Reconstituted Human Epithelium Test method OECD 439. Moreover, an in vitro assessment of the effect of hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid combinations on mRNA expression and collagen type I synthesis was evaluated in adult human fibroblasts. This study establishes, for the first time, the potential use of particular hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid combinations as stimulators of collagen I synthesis in fibroblast cultures. Besides, it provide safety information regarding potential use of those biomolecules in the formulation of a cosmetic preparation positively concluding that both, ingredients and cosmetic preparation, resulted not irritant for skin following an international validated reference method.