Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins with strong hair conditioning properties.

OBJECTIVE: With the constant upgrading of healthcare concepts, silicone-free hair products have attracted more attention among consumers. In the present study, transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins was successfully fabricated by mixing mild non-sulphate surfactants, compound cationic conditioners, natural silicone oil substitutes, protein conditioners, thickeners, and other auxiliary ingredients. The effects of the type of surfactants, hair conditioners and thickeners, the type and content of proteins, and the mass ratio of compound proteins on the hair foaming performance, hair grooming performance, and penetration performance were investigated. METHODS: The basic formulation framework for transparent silicone-free shampoo was established at first. Then, various hydrolyzed proteins were further added to the basic formulation in the form of single use or compound use to prepare transparent silicone-free shampoo containing different proteins. The morphology of hair samples and penetration of protein in hair were evaluated with a scanning electron microscope and laser confocal fluorescence microscopy, respectively. And the hair grooming performance was also determined by a dynamic combing tester. RESULTS: The compound proteins of Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD and Gluadin® Kera-PLM with mass ratios of 1:9 and 1:1 at 2 wt% total protein content added to the silicone-free shampoo brought a higher contact angle and a lower frictional coefficient than commercial silicone-free shampoo without proteins. In addition, the compound proteins also have the dual effect of adsorbing the hair surface and penetrating deep into the interior of the hair. CONCLUSION: The combination of cationic modified hydrolyzed protein (e.g., Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) and hydrolyzed protein with low molecular weight (e.g., Gluadin® Kera-P LM) at an appropriate mass ratio exhibited a strong synergistic effect on hair conditioning properties. It could provide a significant reference for developing silicone-free hair products with more benefits.

OBJECTIF: Avec l'amélioration constante des concepts de soins de santé, les produits capillaires sans silicone ont attiré l'attention des consommateurs. Dans la présente étude, un shampooing transparent sans silicone contenant des protéines a été fabriqué avec succès en mélangeant des tensioactifs doux sans sulfate, des conditionneurs cationiques composés, des substituts naturels de l'huile de silicone, des conditionneurs protéiques, des épaississants et d'autres ingrédients auxiliaires. On a étudié les effets du type de tensioactifs, de conditionneurs pour les cheveux et d'épaississants, du type et de la teneur en protéines et du rapport massique des protéines composées sur les performances de moussage des cheveux, du nettoyage des cheveux et de la pénétration. MÉTHODES: le cadre de formulation de base pour le shampooing transparent sans silicone a d'abord été établi. Ensuite, diverses protéines hydrolysées ont été ajoutées à la formulation de base sous forme d'utilisation unique ou d'utilisation de composés pour préparer un shampooing transparent sans silicone contenant différentes protéines. La morphologie des échantillons de cheveux et la pénétration des protéines dans les cheveux ont été évaluées à l'aide d'un microscope électronique a balayage et d'une microscopie confocale laser à fluorescence, respectivement. Les performances de nettoyage des cheveux ont également été déterminées par un testeur de peignage dynamique. RÉSULTATS: les protéines composées de Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD et de GluadinR Kera-PLM avec des rapports massiques de 1:9 et 1:1 à 2 % en poids de teneur en protéines totales ajoutées au shampooing sans silicone ont un angle de contact plus élevé et un coefficient de frottement plus faible que le shampooing sans silicone commercial sans protéines. En outre, les protéines composées ont également doublé l'effet d'adsorption à la surface des cheveux et de pénétration à l'intérieur des cheveux. CONCLUSION: la combinaison de protéines hydrolysées modifiées cationiques (par exemple, Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) et de protéines hydrolysées de faible poids moléculaire (par exemple, GluadinR Kera-P LM) avec un rapport massique approprié a montré un fort effet synergique sur les propriétés de conditionnement des cheveux. Il pourrait fournir une référence significative pour le développement de produits capillaires sans silicone avec plus d'avantages.

Comparative study of instrumental measurement and sensory evaluation methods for the repairing effect of mildly damaged hair bundles.

OBJECTIVE: This study explores the applicability and scientific accuracy of instrument measurements in repairing hair products on slightly damaged hair bundles. MATERIALS AND METHOD: Sixty hair bundles mildly damaged with hydrogen peroxide and ammonia standards were divided into two groups: the treatment and control groups (30 hair bundles each). The treatment group used commercial hair care essential oil, whereas the control group used tap water to treat the damage. The two groups were measured using an instrument before and after the product application. The objective indicators included the gloss of hair, along with hair cuticle dynamic friction coefficient, and against hair cuticle dynamic friction coefficient. At the same time, two evaluators conducted sensory evaluations on the gloss and frizz levels of the hair bundles. Therefore, data comparison and verification were carried out together with instrumental measurement data. RESULTS: We verified that the instrumental measurement methods could obtain data trends that are consistent with sensory assessment methods; hence, they have the advantages of accuracy, convenience, and quantifiability. CONCLUSION: Thus, the instrumental measurement methods we verified can provide objective evidence for the efficacy of hair care products in repairing hair.

Assessing the effect of cleansing products on artificially polluted human hairs and skin through in vivo and in vitro models.

OBJECTIVE: Based on in vivo data, in vitro models and new methods are created to mimic the impact of aerial pollution onto the hair surface and assess the efficacy of different formulae prototypes. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Two protocols are developed to mimic the pollution effect, in vitro, on purchased swatches, and in vivo, on scalps and forearms. First, with an artificial sebum mixed with Carbon Black particles, named "sebollution," we evaluated, through an instrumental color measurement, the cleansing efficacy of some shampoo on scalp and hair. The second protocol allowed to assess the interaction between hair care product deposit (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on) on hair and carbon black particles spread on fiber. The quantification of particle coverage allowed to evaluate the efficiency of a formula to limit the aerial pollution deposit on hair fiber. RESULTS: To simplify and accelerate the evaluation of 42 shampoo formulae, an extrapolation of the scalp cleaning process was validated on forearm. The respective cleanabilities were calculated and covered a large range of efficacy, from 5%, for a basic bland shampoo generally used to reset swatches, to a strong deep cleansing efficacy of 100%. On hair swatches, cleanability efficiencies of five shampoo were also evaluated to eliminate the deposited of sebollution, in a range of 40%-80%. To quantify the efficacy of preventing the deposition of carbon particle on hair surface, the percentage of coverage of 45 different products was measured, from 2% to 16%. The performance depended of the product category (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on), driven by the performance of the product deposit, and the capacity of this deposit to interact with aerial pollution. CONCLUSION: Three new protocols and evaluation methods are proposed to evaluate and quantify the performance of hair care product, to remove/clean, limit, and protect the hair fibers against the aerial pollution that could interact with hair, scalp and sebum. The validation of these approaches was done through the testing of a large panel of hair care product leading to a complete and sincere evaluation of cleansing and anti-deposit efficacy. Combining the knowledge acquired on pollution impact on hair and the development of specific way of evaluation, this work reinforced the rationale of using and developing new cosmetic products that reduced the impact of pollution upon some hair properties.

Assessment of the photoprotection properties of hair cosmetics using the hemispherical directional reflectance method.

BACKGROUND: Solar radiation is responsible for changes in the structure of human hair, the damages include proteins (65%-95%), lipids, and melanin. The aim was to examine the effectiveness of sunscreen in hair cosmetics and whether hair color affects it. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The study included nine women, divided according to hair color to three groups: light, dark, and gray hair. The 410-Solar reflectometer was used in five time points. The hair was divided into three strands, one product applied to each. RESULTS: Dark hair showed the highest absorption of radiation in all wavelength ranges, the reflectance before products application was significantly higher than the hair reflectance immediately after application. The effect of sunscreens on light hair reflectance was found at wavelengths 400 and 720 nm and between 1000 and 2500 nm, the reflectance before application was significantly higher than the reflectance after. The use of products on gray hair did not have a significant effect on hair reflectance at wavelengths 400-1100 nm, the effect of sunscreens on the gray hair reflectance was observed in the UV and infrared range, the reflectance before application was significantly higher than immediately after. CONCLUSIONS: The results showed that the 410-Solar reflectometer is useful to assess the effectiveness of hair sunscreens. All three tested hair products do not show the expected protection properties. Dark hair showed the highest absorption of radiation in all wavelength ranges, suggesting that dark hair should be more protected against radiation than light and gray hair.

A comparison of dyeing efficacy between hair-oxidation-based and hair-coating-based shampoos for the treatment of gray hair.

BACKGROUND: The process of hair dyeing causes hair damage, and periodic re-dyeing is required for newly grown hair. To avoid these hassles, hair color shampoos have been developed and are widely used. In this study, we compared the effects of two hair color shampoos with different dyeing principles to analyze the function of hair color shampoos. We analyzed hair tresses treated by hair-oxidation- and hair-coating-based shampoos. MATERIALS AND METHODS: We measured the color, tensile properties, softness, elasticity, gloss, moisture content, and protein content of the hair tresses dyed with color shampoos. The hair structures were analyzed by scanning and transmission electron microscopies (SEM and TEM) and a hydroxy radical-based method. RESULTS: The shampoo based on hair coating enhanced the hair dyeing effect and roughness, whereas that based on hair oxidation improved the color retention and moisture content in the hair tresses. Frictional resistance, gloss, and elasticity of the hair tresses were similar for the two products. However, according to the results of the protein loss test, TEM, and hydroxyl radical staining, the shampoo based on hair oxidation showed a longer dyeing retention compared to that based on hair coating but caused cuticle damage. CONCLUSION: These results show that the two shampoos with different dyeing principles exhibit different hair dyeing abilities and hair health indices. Therefore, we recommend that hair color shampoos should be used according to the requirements of an individual.

Development of a three-point cantilever bending technique to study the mechanical properties of hair styling ingredients.

BACKGROUND: The mechanical properties of hair treated with styling ingredients is an important aspect to determine if products will be efficacious when used by the consumer. Measurement techniques have been proposed in earlier work; however, these are mostly aimed at hairspray systems and not the myriad of styling products available to the modern-day consumer. AIM: In this article, experimental and data analysis guidelines are proposed for the evaluation of styling ingredients using a three-point cantilever bending technique. Most of the experiments were carried out on polysaccharide-based ingredients-guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Guar HPTC) and cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Cassia HPTC)-to establish basic characterization concepts of the polymer-fiber assemblies. METHODS: A three-point cantilever bending technique was developed using a texture analyzer housed in a temperature and humidity-controlled chamber. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) studies were conducted to monitor the fracture mechanics of polymer-fiber assemblies. RESULTS: Fundamental studies were carried out to determine the effect of concentration, molecular weight (MW), and chemistry of the polysaccharides on the calculated indices, which characterize the stiffness, flexibility, elasticity, and plasticity of the treated hair. Experiments were conducted in a controlled temperature and humidity environment, which allowed us to monitor the behavior of the polymer-treated hair from 40-90% RH. Studies were also conducted on polymer blends and conventional styling polymers to provide guidance of the performance of naturally-derived polymers to their synthetic counterparts. CONCLUSIONS: A detailed description is provided for a user-friendly, quick method to measure the mechanical properties of styling ingredients on hair. We provide guidelines for three-point cantilever bending tests of straight hair tresses treated with conventional and naturally-derived styling polymers. Indices were developed to characterize the force-distance curves and were designated as E1, F1, position of F1, post-fracture gradient, toughness, E10/E1, and F10/F1. These indices provide an overall characterization of the stiffness, flexibility, elasticity, and plasticity of polymer-treated hair.

Comparing hair tensile testing in the wet and the dry state: Possibilities and limitations for detecting changes of hair properties due to chemical and physical treatments.

OBJECTIVES: This investigation focuses, first, on the question to which extent wet and dry tensile tests on human hair may be considered as leading to independent results. Second, we try to assess the sensitivities of wet and dry-testing to detect changes of mechanical properties. Specifically, we were interested in separating changes, which were induced by a combination of a chemical (oxidation/bleach) and a physical treatment (heat). METHODS: The basis for our study are data for the tensile properties (wet and dry) of a set of untreated and bleached hair tresses, which were submitted to the same schedule of thermal treatments. As characteristic tensile parameters, we chose modulus (E), break extension (BE), and break stress (BS). First, parameters were analysed across treatments for the correlations between wet and dry data. Second, we applied two-factor analysis of variance to assess the effects of the factors and their potential interaction. RESULTS: Correlations for the dry versus wet data show only a weak relationship for E, while coefficients of determination (R2 ) are quite high for BE and BS. Two-factor ANOVA enables to quantify the various contributions to the Total Sum-of-Squares for all three parameters. We show that the parameters respond quite differently to the chemical and the thermal treatments as well as to testing conditions (wet or dry). It is of interest to note that the interaction between the chemical and the physical treatment is generally quite weak. For the interpretation of the results, we use the concept of the humidity-dependent as well as strain-induced glass transition of the amorphous matrix. CONCLUSIONS: The independence hypothesis for dry and wet tensile measurements only applies for modulus. Overall, we consider modulus (wet) as the best tensile measure of fibre damage when assessing chemical and/or physical treatments. Under ambient conditions (dry), break stress is shown to be a feasible alternative measure.

OBJECTIFS: Cette expérience porte d'abord sur la question de savoir dans quelle mesure les tests de traction humide et sec sur cheveux humains peuvent être considérés comme conduisant à des résultats indépendants. Deuxièmement, nous essayons d'évaluer les sensibilités des tests humides et secs pour détecter les modifications des propriétés mécaniques. Plus précisément, nous nous sommes intéressés à séparer les changements, qui ont été induits par une combinaison d'un produit chimique (oxydation/eau de javel) et d'un traitement physique (chaleur). MÉTHODES: Notre étude repose sur les données relatives aux propriétés de traction (humides et secs) d'un ensemble de tresses capillaires non traitées et décolorées, qui ont été soumises au même programme de traitements thermiques. En tant que paramètres de traction caractéristiques, nous avons choisi le modulus (E), l'extension de rupture (BE) et le stress de rupture (BS). Tout d'abord, les paramètres ont été analysés entre les traitements, pour observer les corrélations entre les données humides et secs. Deuxièmement, nous avons appliqué une analyse de variance à deux facteurs, pour évaluer les effets des facteurs et leur interaction potentielle. RÉSULTATS: Les corrélations entre les données sèches et humides montrent uniquement une relation faible pour E, tandis que les coefficients de détermination (R2) sont assez élevés pour BE et BS. L'analyse ANOVA à deux facteurs permet de quantifier les différentes contributions à la somme totale des carrés pour les trois paramètres. Nous montrons que les paramètres répondent de façon assez différente aux traitements chimiques et thermiques ainsi qu'aux conditions de test (humide ou sec). Il est intéressant de noter que l'interaction entre la substance chimique et le traitement physique est généralement assez faible. Pour l'interprétation des résultats, nous utilisons la notion de transition vitreuse hygro-dépendante ainsi que de la matrice amorphe induite par une contrainte. CONCLUSIONS: L'hypothèse d'indépendance pour les mesures de traction sec et humide ne s'applique qu'au module. Dans l'ensemble, nous considérons le module (humide) comme la meilleure mesure de traction des dommages des fibres, lors de l'évaluation des traitements chimiques et/ou physiques. Dans des conditions ambiantes (sèches), le stress de rupture est une mesure alternative réalisable.

Application of Combinatorial Methods for the Identifi cation of Synthetic Hair-Conditioning Polymers.

Cationic conditioning polymers have a role as deposition aids for depositing benefit agents such as silicone polymers and are used in shampoo formulations to provide improved combing properties, feel, and look. The objective of this work was to develop synthetic high-performance polymeric conditioning agents that exhibit conditioning performance as good as, or better than, the current commercially available polymers. We describe the application of high throughput methods to identify high-performance synthetic hair-conditioning polymers through using high throughput combinatorial methods for polymer synthesis and screening to prepare several hundred cationic polymer candidates. Shampoo formulations were then formulated with these polymers; hair tresses were treated with these formulations and tested via a parallel automated wet combing method. Three high-performing polymer candidates were selected for further evaluation, prepared on a larger scale and evaluated via a panel study. A (3-acrylamidopropyl)trimethylammonium chloride-vinyl monomer-based cationic copolymer is shown to exhibit hair conditioning efficiency equal to or greater than that of a high-performance cellulose ether-based polymer, SOFTCAT™ SL-5 (Polyquaternium-67) in a shampoo formulation.

Targeting Wnt/ß-Catenin Pathway for Developing Therapies for Hair Loss.

Persistent hair loss is a major cause of psychological distress and compromised quality of life in millions of people worldwide. Remarkable progress has been made in understanding the molecular basis of hair loss and identifying valid intracellular targets for designing effective therapies for hair loss treatment. Whereas a variety of growth factors and signaling pathways have been implicated in hair cycling process, the activation of Wnt/ß-catenin signaling plays a central role in hair follicle regeneration. Several plant-derived chemicals have been reported to promote hair growth by activating Wnt/ß-catenin signaling in various in vitro and in vivo studies. This mini-review sheds light on the role of Wnt/ß-catenin in promoting hair growth and the current progress in designing hair loss therapies by targeting this signaling pathway.

Revisiting, in vivo, the hair regreasing process by the Sebuprint method.

BACKGROUND: The regreasing process of hair by sebum is daily observed by consumers. Methods to investigate this phenomenon were scarcely updated since the 1990s, despite the constant progresses in hair cleaning procedures or shampoo formulations. Our objective was first, to develop an in vivo noninvasive method for quantifying the spread of sebum along the hair shaft. Secondly, we use this new method to define the overall kinetics of the hair-regreasing process among two cohorts of Chinese men with opposite self-perceptions of their scalp/hair greasiness (ie, greasy or not greasy). MATERIAL AND METHODS: One hundred and twenty-three Chinese men (aged 18-35 years) participated to the study. The technique used basically adapts the Sebumeter™ technology where supple polymer films are applied onto and along the hair shaft. The sampled hair sebum is further quantified by image analysis/increased transparency. RESULTS: The technique developed showed an adequate reproducibility under fixed conditions (pressure, investigators, scalp sites, etc.). In the two cohorts of subjects (eg, greasy, nongreasy), hair regreasing process was found sharing a same linear progression with time. The two cohorts of men presented significantly different values in the total amount of spread sebum by an approximately two-fold coefficient, with however comparable average values in the sebum amount present at the root region 48 hours post shampoo. At such timing, the spread of sebum reaches much longer distances in the greasy scalp cohort. CONCLUSION: This technique appears promising for assessing the efficacy of cosmetic ingredients (or products) that aim at delaying a natural process that is daily and negatively perceived by consumers.

In vitro efficacy of antifungal agents alone and in shampoo formulation against dandruff-associated Malassezia spp. and Staphylococcus spp.

OBJECTIVE: Dandruff is a complex skin condition characterized by unpleasant itching and flaking of the scalp. It is primarily attributed to the over colonization of Malassezia yeasts such as Malassezia globosa and Malassezia restricta. Some studies also suggest the involvement of staphylococci bacteria in dandruff disease pathogenesis. We aimed to access the effectiveness of anti-dandruff treatments by determining the efficacy of the active antifungal agents alone or in commercial shampoo formulations against Malassezia and Staphylococcus. METHODS: The minimum inhibitory concentrations of three anti-dandruff shampoo antifungals (zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole and ciclopirox) and the witch hazel extract, hamamelitannin were tested against commensal Malassezia and Staphylococcus species using broth microdilution methods. In experiments simulating shampoo exposure and washing conditions on the scalp, we also tested the ability of the above agents in shampoo formulation (Head and Shoulders® (H&S), Ketomed® , Sebiprox® , Erol Healthcare Hair Shampoo® respectively) along with a generic over-the-shelf shampoo to inhibit microbial growth. RESULTS: Ketomed® and H&S shampoo were the most effective treatments against Malassezia in in vitro assays and washing simulation experiments. Erol Healthcare Hair Shampoo® was less effective against Malassezia as it required a longer contact time to achieve growth inhibition for some species. Sebiprox® showed variable efficacy in washing and contact time experiments whereas the generic over-the-shelf shampoo was the least effective in inhibiting Malassezia and Staphylococcus growth. CONCLUSION: From these findings, it is reasonable that patients with dandruff may benefit from applying specific antifungal shampoo although results may vary with microbial species, time of contact and shampoo formulation components.

OBJECTIFS: Les pellicules sont une affection cutanée complexe caractérisée par des démangeaisons et une desquamation du cuir chevelu. Elles sont principalement attribuées à une colonisation excessive par des levures du genre Malassezia telles que Malassezia globosa et Malassezia restricta. Certaines études suggèrent également que des bactéries comme les staphylocoques sont impliquées dans la pathogenèse des pellicules. Nous désirions évaluer l'efficacité des traitements antipelliculaires en déterminant l'efficacité des antifongiques actifs seuls ou dans des formulations commerciales de shampooing contre Malassezia et les bactéries du genre Staphylococcus. MÉTHODES: Les concentrations minimales inhibitrices de trois antifongiques présents dans des shampooings antipelliculaires (pyrithione de zinc, kétoconazole et ciclopirox) ainsi que l'hamamélan, extrait d'hamamélis, ont été évaluées contre des espèces commensales de Malassezia et Staphylococcus en utilisant des méthodes de microdilution en culture. Dans des expériences simulant l'exposition au shampooing et les conditions de lavage sur le cuir chevelu, nous avons également testé la capacité à inhiber la croissance microbienne des agents décrits ci-dessus dans la formulation de shampooings (Head and Shoulders (H&S), Ketomed, Sebiprox, Erol Healthcare Hair Shampoo, respectivement) avec un produit générique trouvé dans le commerce. RÉSULTATS: Les shampooings Ketomed et H&S ont été les traitements les plus efficaces contre Malassezia dans des essais in vitro et dans des expériences de simulation de lavage. Le shampooing Erol Healthcare était moins efficace contre Malassezia in vitro car nécessitant un temps de contact plus long pour obtenir une inhibition de la croissance de certaines espèces. Sebiprox a montré une efficacité variable dans les expériences de lavage et de temps de contact alors que le shampooing générique était le moins efficace pour inhiber la croissance de Malassezia et Staphylococcus. CONCLUSION: Ces résultats suggèrent que les patients avec des pellicules peuvent raisonnablement retirer un bénéfice de l'utilisation d'un shampooing antifongique spécifique bien que les résultats puissent varier selon les espèces microbiennes, la durée du contact et des composants entrant dans la formulation du shampooing.

Assessment of hair surface roughness using quantitative image analysis.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Focus on the hair and hair cuticle is increasing. The hair cuticle is the first layer to be exposed to damage and the area of primary protection. For such reasons, hair product manufacturers consider cuticle protection important. However, previous studies used only visual assessment to examine the cuticle. This study aimed to obtain the changes in cuticles and measure hair roughness using a HIROX microscope. METHODS: A total of 23 female subjects used the same products daily for 4 weeks. Three hair samples per subject were collected from three different areas of the head. Measurements were taken before and after 4 weeks of daily product use. RESULTS: The hair surface changes were clearly observed on the captured images. Moreover, hair surface roughness was observed using various parameters on HIROX software. After 4 weeks of daily product use, the roughness parameter value of the hair surface was significantly decreased. CONCLUSION: Our result suggests that the hair roughness analytical method using HIROX can be a new paradigm for high-quality quantitative analysis of the hair cuticle.

Promotion of hair growth by newly synthesized ceramide mimetic compound.

Based on the crucial roles of ceramides in skin barrier function, use of ceramides or their structural mimetic compounds, pseudoceramides, as cosmetic ingredients are getting more popular. While currently used pseudoceramides are intended to substitute the structural roles of ceramides in stratum corneum, development of bioactive pseudoceramides has been repeatedly reported. In this study, based on the potential involvement of sphingolipids in hair cycle regulation, we investigated the effects of newly synthesized pseudoceramide, bis-oleamido isopropyl alcohol (BOI), on hair growth using cultured human hair follicles and animal models. BOI treatment promoted hair growth in cultured human hair follicles ex vivo and induced earlier conversion of telogen into anagen. Although we did not find a significant enhancement of growth factor expression and follicular cell proliferation, BOI treatment resulted in an increased sphinganine and sphingosine contents as well as increased ceramides contents in cultured dermal papilla (DP) cells. Taken together, our data strongly suggest that biologically active pseudoceramide promotes hair growth by stimulating do novo synthesis of sphingolipids in DP cells.

Hair pull test: Evidence-based update and revision of guidelines.

BACKGROUND: The hair pull test lacks validation and has unclear pretest guidelines. OBJECTIVE: We sought to quantify normal hair pull test values and elucidate the effect of pretest hair washing and brushing. The impact of hair texture and lifestyle was also examined. METHODS: Participants (n = 181) completed a questionnaire recording demographics, medications, and hair health/history. A single hair pull test (scalp vertex) was performed. RESULTS: The mean number of hairs removed per pull was 0.44 (SD 0.75). There was no significant difference in the mean number of hairs removed regardless of when participants washed (P = .20) or brushed (P = .25) their hair. Hair pull test values were similar between Caucasian-, Asian-, and Afro-textured hair. There was no significant difference in hair pull values between participants taking medications affecting hair loss and participants not taking these medications (P = .33). Tight hairstyles did not influence hair pull test values. LIMITATIONS: Participant hair washing and brushing could not be controlled during the study, but this information was documented and analyzed. CONCLUSION: Normal values for the hair pull test should be reduced to 2 hairs or fewer (97.2% of participants). The current 5-day restriction on pretest hair washing can be reduced and brushing be made permissible.

Mechanical characterization of curly hair: Influence of the use of nonconventional hair straightening treatments.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Hair straighteners are very popular around the world, although they can cause great damage to the hair. Thus, the characterization of the mechanical properties of curly hair using advanced techniques is very important to clarify how hair straighteners act on hair fibers and to contribute to the development of effective products. On this basis, we chose two nonconventional hair straighteners (formaldehyde and glyoxylic acid) to investigate how hair straightening treatments affect the mechanical properties of curly hair. METHODS: The mechanical properties of curly hair were evaluated using a tensile test, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) measurements, scanning electronic microscopy (SEM), a torsion modulus, dynamic vapor sorption (DVS), and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis. RESULTS: The techniques used effectively helped the understanding of the influence of nonconventional hair straighteners on hair properties. For the break stress and the break extension tests, formaldehyde showed a marked decrease in these parameters, with great hair damage. Glyoxylic acid had a slight effect compared to formaldehyde treatment. Both treatments showed an increase in shear modulus, a decrease in water sorption and damage to the hair surface. CONCLUSIONS: A combination of the techniques used in this study permitted a better understanding of nonconventional hair straightener treatments and also supported the choice of the better treatment, considering a good relationship between efficacy and safety. Thus, it is very important to determine the properties of hair for the development of cosmetics used to improve the beauty of curly hair.

Development and clinical evaluation of green tea hair tonic for greasy scalp treatment.

Green tea has cosmetic benefits that include activities against androgen disorders. A hair tonic containing green tea for reduction of scalp sebum was developed and clinically evaluated. Stable green tea hair tonics were closed-patch tested and clinically evaluated in 20 volunteers for 28 days by using a Sebumeter ® . Hair tonic base with glycerin and butylene glycol (total 4%) gained the highest consumers' preference was incorporated with green tea extract. All of the products were stable and none caused skin irritation. Green tea hair tonic (2%) significantly (p ≤ 0.024) lowered scalp sebum for 21 and 28 days following the application, suggesting that this topical therapy of scalp greasiness is safe and efficient.

Clinical and anthropological perspectives on chemical relaxing of afro-textured hair.

The culturally engrained practice of 'relaxing' afro-textured hair has been linked with hair and scalp disorders. Herein, we discuss the evolution of human hair types, focusing in particular on afro-textured hair. We explore the biological features of this hair type, and discuss the different methods employed to straighten afro-textured hair, focusing in particular on chemical straightening. We also examine clinical, anthropological, and psychological issues associated with this latter practice. Examples of common scalp pathologies associated with chronic hair relaxing, such as alopecia, hair breakage, caustic burns and irritant contact dermatitis, are also highlighted. The data presented herein should enable clinicians to engage in culturally appropriate discussions with their patients about issues of appearance and conformity.

Efficacy of herbal shampoo base on native plant against head lice (Pediculus humanus capitis De Geer, Pediculidae: Phthiraptera) in vitro and in vivo in Thailand.

Head lice infestation (or pediculosis) is an important public health problem in Thailand, especially in children between the ages 5 and 11 years. Head lice resistance is increasing, chemical pediculicides have lost their efficacy, and, therefore, alternative pediculicides such as herbal shampoos have been proposed to treat head lice infestation. Thus, the present study investigated the efficacy of three herbal shampoos based on native plants in Thailand (Acorus calamus Linn., Phyllanthus emblica Linn., and Zanthoxylum limonella Alston) against head lice and compared them with carbaryl shampoo (Hafif shampoo, 0.6% w/v carbaryl), malathion shampoo (A-Lice shampoo, 1.0% w/v malathion), and commercial shampoos (Babi Mild Natural' N Mild and Johnson's baby shampoo) in order to assess their in vitro and in vivo efficacy. For in vitro study, doses of 0.12 and 0.25 ml/cm(2) of each herbal shampoo were applied to filter paper, then 10 head lice were place on the filter paper. The mortalities of head lice were recorded at 5, 15, 30, and 60 min. The results revealed that all herbal shampoo were more effective on pediculicidal activity than chemical and commercial shampoos with 100% mortality at 15 min; LT50 values ranged from 0.25 to 1.90 min. Meanwhile, chemical shampoos caused 20-80% mortality, and LT50 values ranged from 6.50 to 85.43 min. On the other side, commercial shampoos showed 4.0% mortality. The most effective pediculicide was Z. limonella shampoo, followed by A. calamus shampoo, P. emblica shampoo, carbaryl shampoo, malathion shampoo, and commercial shampoo, respectively. In vivo results showed that all herbal shampoos were also more effective for head lice treatment than chemical and commercial shampoos with 94.67-97.68% of cure rate after the first treatment; the second treatment, 7 days later, revealed that the cure rate was 100%. Meanwhile, chemical shampoo showed 71.67-93.0% of cure rate and, unfortunately, commercial shampoos were nontoxic to head lice and showed 0% of cure rate after the first and the second treatments. Our data showed that three herbal shampoos of native plants in Thailand in this study are suitable to be used as pediculicides for Thai children since it is safe for children and there is no side-effect after application.

Nanometre-scale investigations by atomic force microscopy into the effect of different treatments on the surface structure of hair.

OBJECTIVE: To investigate the effect of different washing regimes on the surface of human hair at the nanometre scale - comparable to the size of typical deposits left behind by commercial products. METHODS: Atomic force microscopy (AFM) and related techniques. RESULTS: It can be directly seen that washing hair using commercial hair care products removes deposits that naturally form on the shaft, revealing the underlying structure of the hair, whereas in many cases leaving new deposits behind. The spatial distribution of these deposits is explored and quantified. The spatial distribution of the surface charge of pristine hair is mapped, and the electrical screening effect of deposits is directly observed. We also show that the roughness of the treated hair depends directly on the type of product used, with a marked difference between shampoo and conditioner. Some products leave isolated deposits behind, whereas others leave layers of material behind which wet the hair surface. CONCLUSION: Atomic force microscopy and the related techniques we have employed in a forensic approach is able to distinguish between different hair care products on the basis of the deposits they leave behind. This opens up the capability of further analysis tools to complement already existing techniques.