Green microparticles based on a chitosan/lactobionic acid/linoleic acid association. Characterisation and evaluation as a new carrier system for cosmetics.

ABSTRACT

The association chitosan/linoleic acid/lactobionic acid in aqueous solution spontaneously led to the formation of stable microparticles with a liquid hydrophobic core consisting of linoleic acid surrounded by a shell of chitosan/lactobionic acid. The originality of the microparticles arises from the fact that they are formed by the association of three ingredients of cosmetic interest, including a skin penetration enhancer (linoleic acid). Dynamic light scattering (DLS) measurements showed microparticles with a mean diameter of 1-2 µm. The presence of a hydrophobic liquid core was observed by transmission electron microscopy (TEM). The ability of these microparticles to encapsulate phenylethyl resorcinol, a hydrophobic skin lightener, was evaluated and its encapsulation was confirmed thanks to T2 measurements and nuclear Overhauser effects (nOe) signs.