Natural fermentation of fresh Jasmine flowers inspired the development of a biotechnological ingredient with global anti-ageing properties.

OBJECTIVE: This study focused on the development of a new-to-world ingredient harnessing the natural potential of fresh Jasminum grandiflorum flowers to self-ferment by its phytobiome revealing flower content. Analytical investigations were conducted to highlight specific phytocompounds generated during the natural fermentation of flowers in comparison to a conventional extraction. The synergy with another extraction technology maximized the generation of biocompounds for an interesting efficacy. METHODS: Jasmine extract was elaborated by combining two patented technologies: the phytofermentology™, inspired by plant-microorganisms interaction and designed to develop ingredients obtained by natural fermentation of the vegetal using its own phytobiota; and the PSR™ technology allowing the extraction of bioactive phytocompounds such as small RNAs from plants. RESULTS: Analytical investigations of Jasmine extract highlighted uniqueness and richness of the phytocompound profiles, such as organics acids and phenolic compounds, markers of fermentation only obtained after phytofermentology in comparison to conventional extraction. Jasmine extract has the particularity to contain jasmintides, flower small peptides belonging to the family of cysteine-rich peptides (CRPs). Antioxidant and global anti-ageing properties were investigated in cell-free assays demonstrating interesting results: about 20% scavenging of free radicals from 0.5% of Jasmine extract and protection from DNA damage of 26% in comparison to a stressed control. CONCLUSION: Phytofermentology™ technology combined with PSR™ technology, meant to be respectful of the environment, allowed to development of biofunctionals very close to nature with a unique analytical signature as Jasmine extract, using the potential of fresh flowers phytobiota to self-ferment. The efficacy of the ingredient on global antioxidation and anti-ageing via hyaluronidase/tyrosinase inhibitions was highlighted by cell-free evaluation assays. Further and complementary studies should be conducted to confirm the bioefficacy of this ingredient with in vitro / ex vivo assays.

Cette étude a pour objectif de développer un nouvel ingrédient unique en exploitant le potentiel des fleurs fraîches de Jasminum grandiflorum à fermenter naturellement en utilisant leur phytobiome, révélant ainsi le contenu de ces fleurs. Des investigations analytiques ont été menées pour mettre en évidence des phytocomposés spécifiques générés lors de la fermentation naturelle des fleurs par rapport à une extraction conventionnelle. La synergie avec une autre technologie d'extraction maximise la génération de biocomposés pour une plus grande efficacité de l'extrait. L'extrait de jasmin a été élaboré en combinant deux technologies brevetées: la phytofermentologie™, inspirée de l'interaction plante/micro­organismes et conçue pour développer des ingrédients obtenus par fermentation naturelle d'un végétal en utilisant son propre phytobiote; et la technologie PSR™ permettant l'extraction de phytocomposés bioactifs tels que les petits ARN des plantes. Les recherches analytiques de l'extrait de jasmin ont mis en évidence le caractère unique et la richesse des profils des différents phytocomposés composant l'extrait, tels que les acides organiques et les composés phénoliques, marqueurs de fermentation obtenus uniquement grâce à la phytofermentologie par rapport à l'extraction conventionnelle. L'extrait de jasmin a la particularité de contenir des jasmintides, petits peptides de fleurs appartenant à la famille des peptides riches en cystéine (CRP). Les propriétés antioxydantes et anti­âge ont été étudiées par des tests acellulaires démontrant des résultats intéressants: environ 20 % d'élimination des radicaux libres à partir de 0,5 % d'extrait de jasmin et une protection contre les dommages à l'ADN de 26 % par rapport à un contrôle stressé. La technologie phytofermentologie™ combinée à la technologie PSR™, se voulant respectueuse de l'environnement, a permis de développer des ingrédients très proches de la nature avec une signature analytique unique comme l'extrait de Jasmin, utilisant le potentiel d'auto­fermentation du phytobiote des fleurs fraîches. L'efficacité de l'ingrédient sur l'antioxydation globale et l'anti­âge via les inhibitions enzymatiques de la hyaluronidase et de la tyrosinase a été mise en évidence par des tests d'évaluation acellulaires. Des études supplémentaires et complémentaires devraient être menées pour confirmer la bioefficacité de cet ingrédient avec des tests in vitro/ex vivo.

Evaluation of THP-1 cell line as an in vitro model for long-term safety assessment of new molecules.

OBJECTIVE: Monitoring the chronic and subacute toxicity is essential in the development of new cosmetic ingredients. In response to the present lack of validated alternative methods, we developed an in vitro model for repeated dose cytotoxicity on THP-1 cells. METHODS: Cultured in suspension, cells were treated with chemicals for 14 days with a frequency of three applications per week, and cell viability was determined by MTT assay. We first investigated the long-term effects of chemicals that induce different kinds of cytotoxicity: Paraquat (PQ), 3-Nitropropanoic acid (3-NPA) and sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS). From acute studies, doses between 1 and 10 µg ml(-1) were chosen to perform our subacute cytotoxicity assay. Comparative genotoxicity evaluations were made with H2 O2 or Paraquat treated TPH-1 cells. Comet assays were performed at 1 h (4°C); after a 24-h recovery period (37°C); and finally, after a long-term period of treatment (14 days, 37°C).Once adapted to plant extracts or highly diluted molecules, some of our cosmetic compounds were tested with this model. RESULTS: As expected, after 14 days of treatment with Paraquat, cell viability rates dramatically decreased for doses as low as 3 µg ml(-1) , whereas 10 µg ml(-1) of 3-NPA and SDS did not induce more than 44% of cell death. Surprisingly, after subacute treatment, comet assay results revealed a dose-dependent increase in tail moments for Paraquat, whereas those of H2 O2 remained low. Moreover, all our compounds tested at 0.5-5 µg ml(-1) were classified as safe, even with a cut-off at 90% of cell viability. CONCLUSION: In conclusion, this assay could be of interest for subacute cytotoxicity and genotoxic assessment of daily and topically applied products and suggests that PQ is a choice worthy positive control.