An upcycled fraction of Melaleuca alternifolia essential oil regenerates the skin through the skin melatonin pathway and improves sleep quality.

BACKGROUND: Sleep is one of the most important factors affecting overall health. During the night, the skin repairs damage caused by daily stresses. Melatonin plays a key role in this process. Toxins are removed, and cellular repair and growth hormone production are increased. Inter alia, this also decreases signs of intrinsic aging. AIMS: The current study was intended to demonstrate the impact of a unique fraction of Melaleuca alternifolia (FMA) essential oil, on sleep and skin quality. METHODS: The effect of FMA was investigated in vitro on skin cells, evaluating its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, and in an ex-vivo study on human skin biopsies treated with FMA following stress induction. In addition, two clinical studies were performed on volunteers with life-style-related sleep complaints. In one study, sleep was measured using a noncontact monitoring device (SleepScore Labs, Max). A second study was conducted to assess skin anti-aging effects. RESULTS: In vitro application of FMA reduced IL-8 and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in skin cells. This was confirmed ex vivo through a decrease in inflammatory markers and an increase in antioxidant enzymes after stress induction. Interestingly, FMA also upregulated melatonin-associated genes. Real-world sleep tracking revealed that FMA significantly improved sleep quality, relative to unscented control. In vivo applications also showed a reduction in signs of aging. CONCLUSION: These results provide initial data to suggest that this unique FMA delivers skin anti-aging benefits via a two-pronged mode of action, improving sleep quality, and reducing skin inflammatory and oxidative stress.

Predicting Chronological Age via the Skin Volatile Profile.

Skin volatile emissions offer a noninvasive insight into metabolic activity within the body as well as the skin microbiome and specific volatile compounds have been shown to correlate with age, albeit only in a few small studies. Building on this, here skin volatiles were collected and analyzed in a healthy participant study (n = 60) using a robust headspace-solid phase microextraction (HS-SPME) gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) workflow. Following processing, 18 identified compounds were deemed suitable for this study. These were classified according to gender influences and their correlations with age were investigated. Finally, 6 volatiles (of both endogenous and exogenous origin) were identified as significantly changing in abundance with participant age (p < 0.1). The potential origins of these dysregulations are discussed. Multiple linear regression (MLR) analysis was employed to model age based on these significant volatiles as independent variables, along with gender. Our analysis shows that skin volatiles show a strong predictive ability for age (explained variance of 68%), stronger than other biochemical measures collected in this study (skin surface pH, water content) which are understood to vary with chronological age. Overall, this work provides new insights into the impact of aging on the skin volatile profiles which comprises both endogenously and exogenously derived volatile compounds. It goes toward demonstrating the biological significance of skin volatiles and will help pave the way for more rigorous consideration of the healthy "baseline" skin volatile profile in volatilomics-based health diagnostics development going forward.

Sensory signature of lignins, new generation of bio-based ingredients in cosmetics.

Lignins represent a high interest in cosmetics as promising multifunctional ingredients. Despite this, uncovering the sensory profile of lignin-based emulsions has remained an unexplored frontier. This study aims to bridge this gap by employing expert sensory evaluation and instrumental characterization to assess the sensory attributes of lignin-based emulsions. A comparative analysis with commercial tinted products and discrimination among lignin derivatives were integral components of the research. Results underscored the distinctive sensory properties of lignin emulsions, exhibiting significantly higher "Integrity of shape" (7.0 ± 0.1) compared to commercial products (4.8 ± 0.1). Additionally, lignin emulsions displayed longer play-time until skin absorption (4.3 ± 0.1), contrasting with the quicker absorption of commercial products (2.7 ± 0.4) and their shorter play-time. Depending on application requirements, lignin derivatives offer formulators a versatile sensory toolbox. Discrimination of lignin emulsions on certain texture properties was achieved using various instrumental tools. Despite the complex formulation of commercial products compared to lignin emulsions, similar texture properties were observed, showcasing lignins' potential to replace multiple ingredients in tinted cosmetics. Beyond their established antioxidant, anti-UV, anti-bacterial, and emulsifying properties, this study reveals additional advantageous sensory properties of lignins, positioning them as promising plant-based sensory ingredients in sustainable cosmetic applications.