Intrinsic curvature in wool fibres is determined by the relative length of orthocortical and paracortical cells.

Hair curvature underpins structural diversity and function in mammalian coats, but what causes curl in keratin hair fibres? To obtain structural data to determine one aspect of this question, we used confocal microscopy to provide in situ measurements of the two cell types that make up the cortex of merino wool fibres, which was chosen as a well-characterised model system representative of narrow diameter hairs, such as underhairs. We measured orthocortical and paracortical cross-sectional areas, and cortical cell lengths, within individual fibre snippets of defined uniplanar curvature. This allowed a direct test of two long-standing theories of the mechanism of curvature in hairs. We found evidence contradicting the theory that curvature results from there being more cells on the side of the fibre closest to the outside, or convex edge, of curvature. In all cases, the orthocortical cells close to the outside of curvature were longer than paracortical cells close to the inside of the curvature, which supports the theory that curvature is underpinned by differences in cell type length. However, the latter theory also implies that, for all fibres, curvature should correlate with the proportions of orthocortical and paracortical cells, and we found no evidence for this. In merino wool, it appears that the absolute length of cells of each type and proportion of cells varies from fibre to fibre, and only the difference between the length of the two cell types is important. Implications for curvature in higher diameter hairs, such as guard hairs and those on the human scalp, are discussed.

The Late Stages of Melanogenesis: Exploring the Chemical Facets and the Application Opportunities.

In the last decade, the late stages of melanin biosynthesis involving the oxidative polymerization of 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) have been extensively investigated. Most of the information derived from a biomimetic approach in which the oxidation of melanogenic indoles was carried out under conditions mimicking those occurring in the biological environment. Characterization of the early oligomers allowed for drawing a structural picture of DHI and DHICA melanins, providing also an interpretative basis for the different properties exhibited by these pigments, e.g., the chromophore and the antioxidant ability. The improved knowledge has opened new perspectives toward the exploitation of the unique chemistry of melanins and its precursors in cosmetic and health care applications. A noticeable example is the development of an innovative hair dyeing system that is based on the marked ease of DHI to give rise to black melanin on air oxidation under slightly alkaline conditions. The advantage of this method for a step-wise coverage of gray hair with a natural shade pigmentation on repeated treatment with a DHI-based formulation with respect to traditional dyes is presented. A variant of DHICA melanin combining solubility in water-miscible organic solvents, an intense chromophore in the UltraViolet-A UV-A region, and a marked antioxidant potency was evaluated as an ingredient for cosmetic formulations.

"Fifty Shades" of Black and Red or How Carboxyl Groups Fine Tune Eumelanin and Pheomelanin Properties.

Recent advances in the chemistry of melanins have begun to disclose a number of important structure-property-function relationships of crucial relevance to the biological role of human pigments, including skin (photo) protection and UV-susceptibility. Even slight variations in the monomer composition of black eumelanins and red pheomelanins have been shown to determine significant differences in light absorption, antioxidant, paramagnetic and redox behavior, particle morphology, surface properties, metal chelation and resistance to photo-oxidative wear-and-tear. These variations are primarily governed by the extent of decarboxylation at critical branching points of the eumelanin and pheomelanin pathways, namely the rearrangement of dopachrome to 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA), and the rearrangement of 5-S-cysteinyldopa o-quinoneimine to 1,4-benzothiazine (BTZ) and its 3-carboxylic acid (BTZCA). In eumelanins, the DHICA-to-DHI ratio markedly affects the overall antioxidant and paramagnetic properties of the resulting pigments. In particular, a higher content in DHICA decreases visible light absorption and paramagnetic response relative to DHI-based melanins, but markedly enhances antioxidant properties. In pheomelanins, likewise, BTZCA-related units, prevalently formed in the presence of zinc ions, appear to confer pronounced visible and ultraviolet A (UVA) absorption features, accounting for light-dependent reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, whereas non-carboxylated benzothiazine intermediates seem to be more effective in inducing ROS production by redox cycling mechanisms in the dark. The possible biological and functional significance of carboxyl retention in the eumelanin and pheomelanin pathways is discussed.

In vitro assembly properties of human type I and II hair keratins.

Multiple type I and II hair keratins are expressed in hair-forming cells but the role of each protein in hair fiber formation remains obscure. In this study, recombinant proteins of human type I hair keratins (K35, K36 and K38) and type II hair keratins (K81 and K85) were prepared using bacterial expression systems. The heterotypic subunit interactions between the type I and II hair keratins were characterized using two-dimensional gel electrophoresis and surface plasmon resonance (SPR). Gel electrophoresis showed that the heterotypic complex-forming urea concentrations differ depending on the combination of keratins. K35-K85 and K36-K81 formed relatively stable heterotypic complexes. SPR revealed that soluble K35 bound to immobilized K85 with a higher affinity than to immobilized K81. The in vitro intermediate filament (IF) assembly of the hair keratins was explored by negative-staining electron microscopy. While K35-K81, K36-K81 and K35-K36-K81 formed IFs, K35-K85 afforded tight bundles of short IFs and large paracrystalline assemblies, and K36-K85 formed IF tangles. K85 promotes lateral association rather than elongation of short IFs. The in vitro assembly properties of hair keratins depended on the combination of type I and II hair keratins. Our data suggest the functional significance of K35-K85 and K36-K81 with distinct assembly properties in the formation of macrofibrils.

De novo filament formation by human hair keratins K85 and K35 follows a filament development pattern distinct from cytokeratin filament networks.

In human hair follicles, the hair-forming cells express 16 hair keratin genes depending on the differentiation stages. K85 and K35 are the first hair keratins expressed in cortical cells at the early stage of the differentiation. Two types of mutations in the gene encoding K85 are associated with ectodermal dysplasia of hair and nail type. Here, we transfected cultured SW-13 cells with human K85 and K35 genes and characterized filament formation. The K85-K35 pair formed short filaments in the cytoplasm, which gradually elongated and became thicker and entangled around the nucleus, indicating that K85-K35 promotes lateral association of short intermediate filaments (IFs) into bundles but cannot form IF networks in the cytoplasm. Of the K85 mutations related to ectodermal dysplasia of hair and nail type, a two-nucleotide (C1448 T1449 ) deletion (delCT) in the protein tail domain of K85 interfered with the K85-K35 filament formation and gave only aggregates, whereas a missense mutation (233A>G) that replaces Arg78 with His (R78H) in the head domain of K85 did not interfere with the filament formation. Transfection of cultured MCF-7 cells with all the hair keratin gene combinations, K85-K35, K85(R78H)-K35 and K85(delCT)-K35, as well as the individual hair keratin genes, formed well-developed cytoplasmic IF networks, probably by incorporating into the endogenous cytokeratin IF networks. Thus, the unique de novo assembly properties of the K85-K35 pair might play a key role in the early stage of hair formation.

Cortical cell types and intermediate filament arrangements correlate with fiber curvature in Japanese human hair.

Naturally straight and curved human scalp hairs were examined using fluorescence and electron microscopy techniques to determine morphological and ultrastructural features contributing to single fiber curvature. The study excluded cuticle and medulla, which lack known bilateral structural asymmetry and therefore potential to form curved fibers. The cortex contained four classifiable cell types, two of which were always present in much greater abundance than the remaining two types. In straight hair, these cell types were arranged annularly and evenly within the cortex, implying that the averaging of differing structural features would maintain a straight fiber conformation. In curved fibers, the cell types were bilaterally distributed approximately perpendicular to fiber curvature direction with one dominant cell type predominantly located closest to the convex fiber side and the other, closest to the concave side. Electron tomography confirmed that the dominant cell type closest to the convex fiber side contained discrete macrofibrils composed of helically arranged intermediate filaments, while the dominant cell type closest to the concave side contained larger fused macrofibrils composed of intermediate filament arrangements varying from helical to hexagonal arrays approximately parallel to the longitudinal fiber axis. These findings concur with the current hypothesis of hair curvature formation and behavior.

Laser capture microscopy in a study of expression of structural proteins in the cuticle cells of human hair.

The cuticle of human hair consists of several layers of flat cells that are hardened through their content of cross-linked proteins and protect the hair structure from the environment. Known proteins in the cuticle are the sulphur-rich KAP 5 and KAP10 proteins located in the exocuticle and cross-linked by disulphide bonds. Isopeptide bonds are also present and led to a proposal from amino acid analysis that the surface of cuticle cells also contains keratinocyte cell envelope proteins, loricrin, involucrin and small proline-rich proteins that contribute to the stability of the hair cuticle. Confirmation of that proposal by protein chemical methods is difficult because of the insolubility of the surface membranes. In the previous studies by other authors, involucrin was not detected in the cuticle by in situ hybridization or by immunoelectron microscopy with specific antibodies. An alternative approach was undertaken to determine whether mRNAs encoding keratinocyte envelope proteins are expressed in cuticle cells in the human hair follicle. The study utilized dissection of the cuticle, cortex and inner root sheath layers from follicles by laser capture microscopy. RNA was isolated and subjected to PCR analysis with specific primers to detect expression of mRNAs encoding cell envelope proteins. Their presence in the cuticle was not detected, and it was concluded that the proteins they encode are not produced. The structural consequences including the possibility that KAPs 5 and 10 are the prime components cross-linked by both disulphide and isopeptide bonds are discussed.

Purification, characterization, and gene cloning of Ceriporiopsis sp. strain MD-1 peroxidases that decolorize human hair melanin.

Ceriporiopsis sp. strain MD-1, isolated from forest soil, produced several extracellular enzymes that decolorized human hair melanin. Among them, three enzymes (E1, E2-1, and E2-2) were purified to homogeneity and characterized. The enzymes required hydrogen peroxide in their enzyme reactions and, typical of other fungal peroxidases, oxidized various phenol compounds such as guaiacol, but not 3,4-dimethoxybenzyl alcohol. The spectra of the three enzymes showed an absorption maximum at 406 nm, indicating that they were heme proteins. However, the A(406)/A(280) values of the enzymes were below 0.4, which was lower than those of other peroxidases. E2-1 and E2-2 were similar to each other in their molecular and catalytic properties, and they possibly represent products of posttranslational modifications and/or allelic variants of the same gene, mdcA. The corresponding cDNA was cloned and sequenced; the deduced amino acid sequence showed high identities to the manganese peroxidases from other microorganisms. The specific activities and K(m) values of E2-1 and E2-2 for synthetic and human hair melanins were much higher than those of Phanerochaete chrysosporium manganese peroxidase and lignin peroxidase.

Characterization of curved hair of Japanese women with reference to internal structures and amino acid composition.

The variation of hair curvature in Japanese women was quantitatively investigated and the structure of curved hair was characterized with transmission electron microscopy (TEM) and amino acid analysis. Two hundred and thirty Japanese women volunteers, aged from 10 to 70 years, were randomly selected. The evaluation of the volunteers' natural hair shape showed that 53% of Japanese women have straight hair, while the remaining 47% have curved hair (varying from a slightly wavy shape to a frizzy style). The average curl radius of the volunteers' hair was determined to be 4.4 +/- 2.3 cm, and ranged widely from 0.6 to 16 cm. The TEM observation of curved hair fiber revealed an inhomogenous internal structure between the outer and inner regions of the curved shape. In relation to the inhomogeneous structure of the curved hair, different amino acid composition of the hair keratin was observed between the outer and inner regions. Interestingly, these results of the TEM observation and the amino acid analysis are analogous to the difference between the ortho- and paracortical cells in wool fibers, suggesting the universal structure of curved mammalian hair.

Unexpected impact of esterification on the antioxidant activity and (photo)stability of a eumelanin from 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid.

To inquire into the role of the carboxyl group as determinant of the properties of 5,6-dihydroxyindole melanins, melanins from aerial oxidation of 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) and its DHICA methyl ester (MeDHICA) were comparatively tested for their antioxidant activity. MALDI MS spectrometry analysis of MeDHICA melanin provided evidence for a collection of intact oligomers. EPR analysis showed g-values almost identical and signal amplitudes (ΔB) comparable to those of DHICA melanin, but spin density was one order of magnitude higher, with a different response to pH changes. Antioxidant assays were performed, and a model of lipid peroxidation was used to compare the protective effects of the melanins. In all cases, MeDHICA melanin performed better than DHICA melanin. This capacity was substantially maintained following exposure to air in aqueous buffer over 1 week or to solar simulator over 3 hr. Different from DHICA melanin, MeDHICA melanin was proved to be fairly soluble in different water-miscible organic solvents, suggesting its use in dermocosmetic applications.

FROSTED BRANCH ANGIITIS IN METHIMAZOLE-INDUCED ANTINEUTROPHIL CYTOPLASMIC ANTIBODY-POSITIVE VASCULITIS.

PURPOSE: To describe an unusual case of frosted branch angiitis that developed in a patient with acute onset systemic vasculitis possibly triggered by the antithyroid medication methimazole. METHODS: We conducted a thorough review of the medical records of a 16-year-old female patient who presented with frosted branch angiitis. During the initial hospital admission, the patient underwent an extensive systemic workup to determine the etiology of her disease and ophthalmologic testing including fundus photographs and fluorescein angiography. RESULTS: Our patient presented with a unilateral acute onset loss of vision, whose fundus examination revealed the pathognomonic features of frosted branch angiitis. Extensive systemic workup revealed an antineutrophilic cytoplasmic antibody-positive vasculitis, possibly triggered by methimazole. CONCLUSION: This case is the first reported frosted branch angiitis associated with a drug-induced antineutrophilic cytoplasmic antibody-positive vasculitis triggered by methimazole.

Hyperproduction of sebaceous cis-6-hexadecenoic acid by esterase-reduced mutant of Rhodococcus sp. strain.

cis-6-Hexadecenoic acid is a major component of human sebaceous lipids that is involved in skin self-sterilization and atopic dermatitis amelioration. It can be prepared by hydrolysis of isopropyl cis-6-hexadecenoate produced by resting cells of Rhodococcus sp. strain KSM-MT66. To devise an economical industrial-scale process for the production of this rare fatty acid, we optimized the conditions for growing rhodococcal cells. Mg(2+) and Fe(2+) ions are essential for the efficient production of isopropyl cis-6-hexadecenoate. To further increase the production of isopropyl cis-6-hexadecenoate, we created a mutant strain (T64) with reduced esterase activity by random mutagenesis using UV irradiation of MT66. Under an optimized condition, the mutant T64 produced more than 60 g l(-1) isopropyl cis-6-hexadecenoate in a 4-d cultivation, corresponding to about 52 g l(-1)cis-6-hexadecenoate.

Eumelanin broadband absorption develops from aggregation-modulated chromophore interactions under structural and redox control.

Eumelanins, the chief photoprotective pigments in man and mammals, owe their black color to an unusual broadband absorption spectrum whose origin is still a conundrum. Excitonic effects from the interplay of geometric order and disorder in 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI)-based oligomeric/polymeric structures play a central role, however the contributions of structural (scaffold-controlled) and redox (π-electron-controlled) disorder have remained uncharted. Herein, we report an integrated experimental-theoretical entry to eumelanin chromophore dynamics based on poly(vinyl alcohol)-controlled polymerization of a large set of 5,6-dihydroxyindoles and related dimers. The results a) uncover the impact of the structural scaffold on eumelanin optical properties, disproving the widespread assumption of a universal monotonic chromophore; b) delineate eumelanin chromophore buildup as a three-step dynamic process involving the rapid generation of oxidized oligomers, termed melanochromes (phase I), followed by a slow oxidant-independent band broadening (phase II) leading eventually to scattering (phase III); c) point to a slow reorganization-stabilization of melanochromes via intermolecular redox interactions as the main determinant of visible broadband absorption.

Structural analysis of human hair fibers under the ultra-high voltage electron microscope.

Three-dimensional structural analyses of human hair fibers and comparison of the different fibers were tried by using the Ultra-high Voltage Electron Microscope (UHVEM). The analysis condition, sample preparation, and a machine state were adjusted to the suitable condition for tilting observation of from -70 degree to +70 degree, at 2 degrees intervals. The tomography of hair fiber was successfully reconstructed from the different angle pictures with IMODE software in a computer. By using UHVEM, the various human hair fibers from Japanese and Caucasians were investigated and discussed about their structures.

Foot odor due to microbial metabolism and its control.

To characterize foot odor, we analyzed its components by sensory tests, isolated microorganisms that produce it, and evaluated the mechanism of the occurrence of foot odor. As a result, foot odor was found to be derived from isovaleric acid, which is produced when Staphylococcus epidermidis, a resident species of the normal cutaneous microbial flora, degrades leucine present in sweat. In addition, Bacillus subtilis was detected in the plantar skin of subjects with strong foot odor, and this species was shown to be closely associated with increased foot odor. Therefore, we screened various naturally occurring substances and fragrant agents that inhibit microbial production of foot odor without disturbing the normal microbial flora of the human skin. As a result, we identified citral, citronellal, and geraniol as fragrant agents that inhibit the generation of isovaleric acid at low concentrations.