Soothing Effect of Pogostemon cablin Extract (Patchouli), via Cannabinoid Receptor 2 Modulation in Human Skin.

Skin functions as a neuro-immuno-endocrine tissue with well-defined neuronal networks and functions. The endocannabinoid system has been proven to be an important, homeostatic regulator for homeostatic and inflammatory events. The system comprises endogenous or exogenous ligands and receptors (CB1 and CB2). In the present study, we evaluated the soothing properties of a Pogostemon cablin (patchouli) extract. Agonist AM1241 and antagonist AM630 were used for CB2 receptor activation/inhibition. Expression of CB2 receptor and ß-endorphin was monitored by immunohistochemistry. Skin inflammation was induced with ultraviolet B (UVB) or lipopolysaccharide (LPS), and the following markers were used to highlight the anti-inflammatory properties of the extract: transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1), interleukin receptors 1 (IL1R1), and the interleukin 6 signal transducer (IL6ST). Our results demonstrated the implication of the CB2 receptor in the skin inflammation process. The expression of CB2 receptor and ß-endorphin was increased 48 hours after application of the extract. Furthermore, patchouli extract application helped to reduce IL1R1, IL6ST, and TRPV1 expression, in skin exposed to UVB or LPS. In conclusion, the application of the patchouli extract helps maintain skin integrity and reduce skin discomfort via modulation of CB2 receptor stimulation and the subsequent ß-endorphin release.

Skin presenting a higher level of caspase-14 is better protected from UVB irradiation according to in vitro and in vivo studies.

Caspase-14, a cysteine endoproteinase belonging to the conserved family of aspartate-specific proteinases, was shown to play an important role in the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes and barrier function of the skin. In the present study, we developed a biofunctional compound that we described as a modulator of caspase-14 expression. Using normal human keratinocytes (NHK) in culture and human skin biopsies, this compound was shown to increase caspase-14 expression and partially reverse the effect of caspase-14-specific siRNA on NHK. Moreover, the increase in filaggrin expression visualized on skin biopsies and the recovery of the barrier structure after tape-stripping indicated that this compound could exhibit a beneficial effect on the skin barrier function. Considering the possible link between caspase-14 and the barrier function, a UVB irradiation on NHK and skin biopsies previously treated with the caspase-14 inducer, was performed. Results indicated that pretreated skin biopsies exhibited less signs of UV damage such as active caspase-3 and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs). Likewise, pretreated NHK were protected from UV-induced genomic DNA damage, as revealed by the Comet Assay. Finally, a clinical test showed a reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) on the treated skin compared with placebo, under UV stress condition, confirming a protecting effect. Taken together, these results strongly suggest that, by increasing caspase-14 expression, the biofunctional compound could exhibit a protective effect on the skin barrier function, especially in case of barrier damage and UV irradiation.