Prediction, screening and characterization of novel bioactive tetrapeptide matrikines for skin rejuvenation.

BACKGROUND: Extracellular matrices play a critical role in tissue structure and function and aberrant remodelling of these matrices is a hallmark of many age-related diseases. In skin, loss of dermal collagens and disorganization of elastic fibre components are key features of photoageing. Although the application of some small matrix-derived peptides to aged skin has been shown to beneficially affect in vitro cell behaviour and, in vivo, molecular architecture and clinical appearance, the discovery of new peptides has lacked a guiding hypothesis. OBJECTIVES: To identify, using protease cleavage site prediction, novel putative matrikines with beneficial activities for skin composition and structure. METHODS: Here, we present an in silico (peptide cleavage prediction) to in vitro (proteomic and transcriptomic activity testing in cultured human dermal fibroblasts) to in vivo (short-term patch test and longer-term split-face clinical study) discovery pipeline, which enables the identification and characterization of peptides with differential activities. RESULTS: Using this pipeline we showed that cultured fibroblasts were responsive to all applied peptides, but their associated bioactivity was sequence-dependent. Based on bioactivity, toxicity and protein source, we further characterized a combination of two novel peptides, GPKG (glycine-proline-lysine-glycine) and LSVD (leucine-serine-valine-aspartate), that acted in vitro to enhance the transcription of matrix -organization and cell proliferation genes and in vivo (in a short-term patch test) to promote processes associated with epithelial and dermal maintenance and remodelling. Prolonged use of a formulation containing these peptides in a split-face clinical study led to significantly improved measures of crow's feet and firmness in a mixed population. CONCLUSIONS: This approach to peptide discovery and testing can identify new synthetic matrikines, providing insights into biological mechanisms of tissue homeostasis and repair and new pathways to clinical intervention.

Like other organs and tissues, the skin is composed of both cells and a complex network of molecules and proteins called an extracellular matrix. This matrix contains proteins such as collagen and elastin and undergoes many changes when the skin is damaged by the sun. We know from previous studies that small parts of matrix proteins (called peptide 'matrikines') can help to treat the signs of sun-related skin ageing. In this UK study, we show that new beneficial peptides (with matrikine activity) can be identified using machine learning (artificial intelligence) techniques that predict where common matrix proteins might be 'cut' by skin enzymes. Candidate peptides were first made in the laboratory and then applied to skin cells in culture. These cell culture screens demonstrated that, while all the peptides showed some matrikine activity, two were particularly promising. These two peptides were then tested in a short-term study on the forearm skin of volunteers and, in a longer-term study, on the face. We found that the combination of these two peptides can prompt forearm skin cells to express genes that are involved in many different aspect of skin health and, over the longer 6-month period, produce visible benefits in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and firmness on the face. Our findings suggest that this approach may be able to identify beneficial peptide treatments for not only skin ageing and diseases, but also unwanted changes in the extracellular matrix of other tissues and organs.

Development of a multiparametric in vitro model of skin sensitization.

Most animal experiments on cosmetics safety are prohibited and since March 2013, this obligation includes sensitization tests. However, until now there has been no validated alternative in vitro method. In this work, 400 compounds used in the cosmetic industry were selected to cover the greatest diversity of structures, biological activities and sensitizing potential. These molecules were submitted to a series of tests aimed at reproducing essential steps in sensitization and to distinguish between sensitization and irritations, i.e., transcutaneous permeation (factor A), haptenation (factor B), sensitization cytokines production (factor C) and acute toxicity (factor D). The transcutaneous diffusion was measured on human skin explants using Franz cells. Haptenation was tested in solution on human serum albumin. Sensitization cytokine production was investigated by measurement of interleukin-18 release by keratinocytes. Acute toxicity was determined using an 3-(4,5-Dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide(75) cell viability test. As only sufficiently stable, soluble and detectable compounds are usable, 33, 72, 68 and 68 molecules were finally tested on factors A, B, C and D, respectively, and 32 were completely screened by the four factors. The individual correlation of the four factors with the reference in vivo tests was limited but the combination of these factors led to a correlation between in vivo and in vitro assays of 81.2% and the safety of the test (risk of false negative) reached 96.8%. The techniques employed are simple and inexpensive and this model of four tests appears as a promising technique to evaluate in vitro the skin sensitization potential of unknown molecules.

Evaluation of dermal extracellular matrix and epidermal-dermal junction modifications using matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization mass spectrometric imaging, in vivo reflectance confocal microscopy, echography, and histology: effect of age and peptide applications.

This study was conducted to establish a new methodology for evaluating elements of dermal extracellular matrix (ECM), of epidermal-dermal junction (EDJ), and effects of molecules which can modulate their synthesis. This methodology is based on matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization mass spectrometric imaging (MALDI-MSI). In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy (in vivo RCM) and echography were also used. Using immunohistochemistry methods on explants, age-related modification data were obtained for selected dermal ECM and EDJ proteins (collagen I, collagen IV, collagen VII, collagen XVII, nidogen I, decorin/decorunt) and used as reference for MALDI-MSI studies. A methodology was developed with MALDI-MSI to map epidermis and dermis proteins. Then MALDI-MSI was used to study age modifications. In vivo RCM and high-frequency ultrasounds were used to evaluate ECM and EDJ undulation modifications caused by aging. Anti-aging molecule evaluations were performed with a blend of palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. Immunohistochemistry studies demonstrated that the selected proteins were found to be less abundant in aged group explants vs. young group except for decorin. MALDI-MSI studies correlated the results obtained for decorin. In vivo RCM measurements indicated a decrease of EDJ undulation depth with age and ECM modifications in the upper part of dermis. Echography demonstrated that the peptide blend reduced subepidermal low-echogenic band thickness and improved its density. In vivo RCM studies indicated that the peptides improved the ECM structure vs. placebo. This preliminary MALDI-MSI study raised some technical difficulties that were overcome. Further studies will be conducted to identify more proteins and to demonstrate the interest of this method for cosmetic evaluations.

Cosmeceuticals and active ingredients.

Cosmetic ingredients previously considered "inert" have potential to provide a biologic effect to skin. In a cosmeceutical formulation, the boundary between an "active" and "inert" ingredient may be obscured. For this reason, the cosmeceutical distributor must find a nonambiguous method to demonstrate the efficacy of a new ingredient. For a product to be successful in the marketplace, the benefits of the product must clearly be communicated to the consumer, and the consumer must be satisfied with product performance.