Synthesis, Characterization, and Evaluation of Thiazolidine Derivatives of Cysteine for Suppressing Eumelanin Production.

In the pathway of melanin biosynthesis, cysteine (Cys) is utilized for the synthesis of pheomelanin. Accordingly, Cys is considered to suppress the formation of brown-black eumelanin. Although attempts have been made to utilize Cys and its derivatives as skin-whitening agents, their instability and odor hinders their application as a cosmetic agent. Herein, N-acetyl-2-methylthiazolidine-2,4-dicarboxylic acid ethyl ester (AcCP2Et) was proposed as a candidate for a stable and prolonged-release derivative of Cys to inhibit dopachrome formation after its degradation in melanocytes. It was synthesized by acetylation of 2-methylthiazolidine-2,4-dicarboxylic acid 2-ethyl ester (CP2Et), the condensation derivative of Cys and ethyl pyruvate. AcCP2Et suppressed melanogenesis in melanocytes in vitro, was stable in phosphate buffer at 70°C for five days, and exhibited far less odor than CP2Et. Therefore, AcCP2Et was validated to be a useful deriative of Cys for application as a skin-whitening agent. AcCP2Et comprises four stereoisomers; thus characterization of each stereoisomer was required. The stereochemistry of AcCP2Et was confirmed via a single-crystal X-ray structure analysis of N-acetyl-2-methylthiazolidine-2,4-dicarboxylic acid (AcCP) derived from AcCP2Et. In the synthesis of AcCP2Et, the acetylation of CP2Et proceeded with epimerization at C4 to give trans-isomers when excess acetyl chloride and an organic amine was used, whereas it proceeded while retaining the original (R) configuration at C4 to give the cis- and trans-isomer when an equivalent of acetyl chloride with an inorganic base was used. These results indicate that the formation of an intermolecular mixed acid anhydride is responsible for the isomerization at the C4 asymmetric center.

Combination of BCAAs and glutamine enhances dermal collagen protein synthesis in protein-malnourished rats.

Skin collagen decreases in protein-malnourished states. Amino acids regulate protein metabolism, glutamine stimulates collagen synthesis through the conversion process to proline and provides 75 % of the intracellular free proline in fibroblasts. However, the impact of these amino acids on collagen synthesis under malnutrition has not been examined. We investigated the effect of amino acids on dermal tropocollagen synthesis in protein-malnourished rats. The fractional synthesis rate (FSR, %/h) of dermal tropocollagen was evaluated by the incorporation of L-[ring-(2)H(5)]-phenylalanine after 4 h infusion of each amino acid and the stable isotope. None of the infused 12 single amino acids (glutamine, proline, alanine, arginine, glutamate, glycine, aspartate, serine, histidine, lysine, phenylalanine and threonine) significantly increased the FSR (P = 0.343, one-way ANOVA). In contrast, amino acid mixtures of essential amino acids + glutamine + arginine (EAARQ) and branched-chain amino acids + glutamine (BCAAQ) significantly increased the FSR compared to saline, but the branched-chain amino acids (BCAAs) and amino acid mixture of collagen protein (AAC) did not alter the FSR (saline, 0.96 ± 0.24 %/h; EAARQ, 1.76 ± 0.89 %/h; BCAAQ 1.71 ± 0.36 %/h; BCAAs, 1.08 ± 0.20 %/h and AAC 1.39 ± 0.35 %/h, P < 0.05, Tukey's test). Proline conversion from glutamine represented only 3.9 % of the free proline in skin, as evaluated by the primed-constant infusion of L-d7-proline and L-α-15N-glutamine in rats. These results suggested that the combination of BCAAQ is a key factor for the enhancement of skin collagen synthesis in protein-malnourished rats. The contribution of extracellular free glutamine on de novo proline synthesis and collagen synthesis is very low in vivo compared to the contribution in vitro.

Importance of amino acid composition to improve skin collagen protein synthesis rates in UV-irradiated mice.

Skin collagen metabolism abnormalities induced by ultraviolet (UV) radiation are the major causes of skin photoaging. It has been shown that the one-time exposure of UV irradiation decreases procollagen mRNA expression in dermis and that chronic UV irradiation decreases collagen amounts and induces wrinkle formation. Amino acids are generally known to regulate protein metabolism. Therefore, we investigated the effects of UV irradiation and various orally administered amino acids on skin collagen synthesis rates. Groups of 4-5 male, 8-week-old HR-1 hairless mice were irradiated with UVB (66 mJ/cm2) twice every other day, then fasted for 16 h. The fractional synthesis rate (FSR; %/h) of skin tropocollagen was evaluated by incorporating L-[ring-2H5]-phenylalanine. We confirmed that the FSR of dermal tropocollagen decreased after UVB irradiation. The FSR of dermal tropocollagen was measured 30 min after a single oral administration of amino acids (1 g/kg) to groups of 5-16 UVB-irradiated mice. Branched-chain amino acids (BCAA, 1.34±0.32), arginine (Arg, 1.66±0.39), glutamine (Gln, 1.75±0.60), and proline (Pro, 1.48±0.26) did not increase the FSR of skin tropocollagen compared with distilled water, which was used as a control (1.56±0.30). However, essential amino acids mixtures (BCAA+Arg+Gln, BCAA+Gln, and BCAA+Pro) significantly increased the FSR (2.07±0.58, 2.04±0.54, 2.01±0.50 and 2.07±0.59, respectively). This result suggests that combinations of BCAA and glutamine or proline are important for restoring dermal collagen protein synthesis impaired by UV irradiation.