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1.
Arch Orthop Trauma Surg ; 144(7): 3145-3151, 2024 Jul.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38869659

RESUMEN

INTRODUCTION: Traumatic elbow dislocations are among the most common injuries in sport climbing. They occur most frequently in bouldering (a climbing discipline with strong upward trend often performed indoors) due to the typical low-height backward fall into crashpads. There is still no data about the functional outcome and return to sport of this typical bouldering injury. MATERIALS AND METHODS: All Patients with elbow dislocations due to a bouldering associated fall between 2011 and 2020 were identified retrospectively in our level I trauma centre. Trauma mechanisms, injury types and therapies were obtained. Follow-up was performed with an online questionnaire including sports-related effects, return to sport and the Elbow Self-Assessment Score (ESAS). RESULTS: 30 patients with elbow dislocations after bouldering accidents were identified. In 22 (73.3%) patients the injury was a simple dislocation. The questionnaire was completed by 20 patients. The leading mechanism was a low-height fall into crashpads. Surgical procedures were performed in every second patient. 18 patients (90%) reported return to bouldering after 4.7 ± 2.1 months. 12 patients (66.7%) regained their pre-injury level. Mid-/Long-term follow-up (mean 105 ± 37.5 months) showed excellent results in ESAS score (97.2 ± 3.9 points). Persistent limited range of motion or instability was reported by only 3 patients (15%). CONCLUSION: Most athletes are able to return to bouldering but only two thirds regain their pre-injury performance level in this demanding upper-extremity sport. The unique low-height trauma mechanism may create a false sense of security. Specific awareness and safety features should be placed for climbing athletes to reduce elbow injuries.


Asunto(s)
Lesiones de Codo , Luxaciones Articulares , Volver al Deporte , Humanos , Estudios Retrospectivos , Masculino , Adulto , Luxaciones Articulares/cirugía , Femenino , Volver al Deporte/estadística & datos numéricos , Accidentes por Caídas/estadística & datos numéricos , Articulación del Codo/cirugía , Articulación del Codo/fisiopatología , Adulto Joven , Traumatismos en Atletas/cirugía , Persona de Mediana Edad , Recuperación de la Función , Adolescente
2.
Wilderness Environ Med ; 35(2): 147-154, 2024 06.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38465643

RESUMEN

INTRODUCTION: Suspension syndrome (SS) develops when venous blood pools in extremities of passively suspended individuals, resulting in presyncopal symptoms and potential unconsciousness or death independent of additional injuries. We investigated use of leg raising to delay onset of SS, as it can decrease venous pooling and increase cardiac return and systemic perfusion. METHODS: Participants were suspended in rock climbing harnesses at an indoor climbing wall in a legs-dangling control position or a legs-raised interventional position to compare physiological outcomes between groups. Participants were suspended for a maximum of 45 min. Onset of 2 or more symptoms of SS, such as vertigo, lightheadedness, or nausea, halted suspension immediately. We recorded each participant's heart rate, blood pressure, oxygen saturation, lower leg oxygen saturation, pain rating, and presyncope scores presuspension, midsuspension, and postsuspension, as well as total time suspended. RESULTS: There were 24 participants. There was a significant difference in total time suspended between groups (43.05±6.7 min vs 33.35±9.02 min, p=0.007). There was a significant difference in heart rate between groups overall (p=0.012), and between groups, specifically at the midsuspension time interval (80±11 bpm vs 100±17 bpm, p=0.003). Pain rating was significantly different between groups (p=0.05). Differences in blood pressure, oxygen saturation, lower leg oxygen saturation, and presyncope scores were not significant. CONCLUSION: Leg raising lengthened the time individuals tolerated passive suspension and delayed symptom onset.


Asunto(s)
Síncope , Humanos , Masculino , Adulto , Femenino , Síncope/etiología , Pierna/irrigación sanguínea , Montañismo , Frecuencia Cardíaca , Persona de Mediana Edad , Adulto Joven
3.
J Hand Surg Am ; 48(12): 1272.e1-1272.e8, 2023 12.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35870957

RESUMEN

PURPOSE: Rock climbing can lead to upper-extremity injuries, such as A2 pulley ruptures, leading to the bowstringing of the flexor tendons. Climbing finger positions are specific and can put undue stress on the pulley systems. This causes severe hand dysfunction and is a difficult problem to treat, and prevention is important. Using a cadaveric, experimental model, we evaluated the effectiveness of the H-taping method, commonly used by rock climbers, to prevent and treat A2 pulley tears. METHODS: Using fourteen matched pairs of fresh-frozen cadaveric hands with forearms, four experiments were conducted with 56 paired comparisons evaluating the failure force, fingertip force, and mode of failure (112 total tests). Comparisons were as follows: index fingers- intact versus 50% distal A2 pulley tears without H-taping (control); ring fingers- intact versus H-taping as a prophylactic for A2 pulley tears; little fingers- 50% distal A2 pulley tears with H-tape versus without tape; and middle fingers- H-taping as a prophylactic versus H-taping as a stabilizing treatment of torn pulleys. RESULTS: The mean index finger failure force was significantly higher in intact vs torn A2 pulleys (control). Failure force for intact H-taped fingers was significantly higher than torn H-taped fingers, but no other finger comparisons for failure force were significant. There were no significant findings in comparison of mean fingertip force values in any of the experiments. CONCLUSIONS: We found that H-taping is not effective as prophylaxis against A2 pulley ruptures or as a stabilizing treatment method for partially ruptured pulleys. CLINICAL RELEVANCE: While H-taping has not been recommended as prophylaxis for preventing A2 pulley ruptures, the climbing community has embraced this technique as a preventative measure. The present study provides biomechanical evidence against H-taping for this purpose. Furthermore, it does not appear to aid in increasing fingertip force after injury.


Asunto(s)
Traumatismos de los Dedos , Laceraciones , Traumatismos de los Tendones , Humanos , Traumatismos de los Dedos/prevención & control , Traumatismos de los Dedos/cirugía , Traumatismos de los Tendones/prevención & control , Traumatismos de los Tendones/cirugía , Dedos , Tendones , Rotura/prevención & control , Cadáver , Fenómenos Biomecánicos
4.
Sensors (Basel) ; 23(11)2023 May 25.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37299807

RESUMEN

Rock climbing has evolved from a method for alpine mountaineering into a popular recreational activity and competitive sport. Advances in safety equipment and the rapid growth of indoor climbing facilities has enabled climbers to focus on the physical and technical movements needed to elevate performance. Through improved training methods, climbers can now achieve ascents of extreme difficulty. A critical aspect to further improve performance is the ability to continuously measure body movement and physiologic responses while ascending the climbing wall. However, traditional measurement devices (e.g., dynamometer) limit data collection during climbing. Advances in wearable and non-invasive sensor technologies have enabled new applications for climbing. This paper presents an overview and critical analysis of the scientific literature on sensors used during climbing. We focus on the several highlighted sensors with the ability to provide continuous measurements during climbing. These selected sensors consist of five main types (body movement, respiration, heart activity, eye gazing, skeletal muscle characterization) that demonstrate their capabilities and potential climbing applications. This review will facilitate the selection of these types of sensors in support of climbing training and strategies.


Asunto(s)
Montañismo , Deportes , Dispositivos Electrónicos Vestibles , Montañismo/fisiología , Músculo Esquelético/fisiología , Recolección de Datos
5.
Wilderness Environ Med ; 34(1): 96-99, 2023 Mar.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36400648

RESUMEN

Pectoralis major tendon ruptures are rare injuries. We present a case of a pectoralis major tendon rupture incurred while bouldering that required surgical repair. The diagnosis of pectoralis major tendon rupture relies predominantly on clinical examination. Among athletes, outcomes after surgical repair are superior to those after nonoperative therapy in most cases of complete tendon rupture. Although infrequent, pectoralis major tendon ruptures can occur while climbing, and early recognition and expedited surgical treatment are paramount to maximize functional recovery.


Asunto(s)
Músculos Pectorales , Traumatismos de los Tendones , Humanos , Músculos Pectorales/cirugía , Músculos Pectorales/lesiones , Tendones , Traumatismos de los Tendones/diagnóstico , Traumatismos de los Tendones/etiología , Traumatismos de los Tendones/cirugía , Rotura/cirugía
6.
Wilderness Environ Med ; 34(4): 435-441, 2023 Dec.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37550103

RESUMEN

INTRODUCTION: Strength training has proved to be an effective way to prevent injuries, but the evidence of the impact of strength training on finger injuries is lacking. A fingerboard is a sport-specific tool used by climbers for strength training of fingers. In this study, we searched for associations between fingerboard training and finger injuries in climbers with different lengths of climbing experience and levels of performance. METHODS: A web-based survey was used to collect information on self-perceived pain or injury in fingers (SPIIF) and regular fingerboard training (RFT). The survey was administered to the Finnish climbing community. Data were analyzed using contingency tables; chi-square was used to evaluate statistical significance. RESULTS: No significant correlations between SPIIF and RFT were found when analyzing all the participants (n=434) together. In climbers with 6 y or more in the sport, SPIIF was not common and RFT was negatively associated with SPIIF (χ2 [1, n=200]=4.57; P=0.03). In contrast to this, in male climbers who had been climbing for less than 6 y and had advanced to 7a level or higher (French lead/Font bouldering), SPIIF was common and RFT was positively associated with SPIIF (χ2 [1, n=75]=4.61; P=0.03). CONCLUSIONS: We suggest that doing RFT may prevent SPIIF in climbers with a long background in the sport as fingerboard training can help build stronger fingers and thereby stronger tendons and ligaments. Climbers with fewer years in the sport and less adaptation to the fingers should be cautious with their training loads and RFT to avoid finger injuries and pain.


Asunto(s)
Traumatismos de los Dedos , Montañismo , Entrenamiento de Fuerza , Deportes , Humanos , Masculino , Traumatismos de los Dedos/etiología , Traumatismos de los Dedos/prevención & control , Dedos
7.
J Hand Ther ; 2023 Oct 05.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37805347

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: Pulley injuries are common among rock climbers, which is a growing population. Hand therapists need a therapeutic intervention which promotes healing and enables participation. PURPOSE: The purpose of this case series is to detail the functional outcomes of a 12-week protocol using a pulley ring orthosis (PRO) among rock climbers with a grade I, II, or III pulley injury. STUDY DESIGN: A prospective repeated measures case series followed the healing timeline of four participants who rock climbed while wearing the invervention device, the PRO, with weekly measurements to monitor healing METHODS: Participants with a grade I, II, or III A2 pulley injury were custom fitted for a PRO, which they wore while rock climbing a minimum of 3 times per week for 12 weeks. Weekly check-ins were scheduled for subjective and objective measurements. RESULTS: All participants demonstrated indicators of full healing, which, in this study, is defined as progressive improvement in strength, function, and pain, without interruption of their typical rock climbing schedules. CONCLUSIONS: Providers should consider the use of a PRO as a protective orthosis for rock climbing patients with a low-grade A2 pulley injury who want to continue rock climbing while they are healing.

8.
Br J Clin Psychol ; 61(2): 465-493, 2022 Jun.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34791669

RESUMEN

OBJECTIVES: Bouldering has shown promising results in the treatment of various health problems. In previous research, bouldering psychotherapy (BPT) was shown to be superior to a waitlist control group and to physical exercise with regard to reducing symptoms of depression. The primary aim of this study was to compare group BPT with group cognitive behavioural psychotherapy (CBT) to test the hypothesis that BPT would be equally as effective as CBT. DESIGN: We conducted a randomized, controlled, assessor-blinded non-inferiority trial in which 156 outpatients meeting the criteria of a depressive episode according to the Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders (DSM-IV) were randomly assigned to one of the two intervention groups (CBT: N = 77, BPT: N = 79). METHODS: Intervention groups were manualized and treated for 10 weeks with a maximum of 11 participants and two therapists. The primary outcome was depressive symptom severity assessed with the Montgomery-Åsberg Depression Rating Scale (MADRS) and the Patient Health questionnaire (PHQ-9) at the beginning and end of the treatment phase as well as one year after the end of treatment. RESULT: In both groups, depressive symptoms improved significantly by an average of one severity level, moving from moderate to mild depressive symptoms after therapy (MADRS difference scores: BPT -8.06, 95% CI [-10.85, -5.27], p < .001; CBT -5.99, 95% CI [-8.55, -3.44], p < .001). The non-inferiority of BPT in comparison with CBT was established on the basis of the lower bound of the 95% confidence interval falling above all of the predefined margins. BPT was found to be effective in both the short (d = 0.89) and long term (d = 1.15). CONCLUSION: Group BPT was found to be equally as effective as group CBT. Positive effects were maintained until at least 12 months after the end of therapy. Thus, BPT is a promising approach for broadening the therapeutic field of therapies for depression. PRACTITIONER POINTS: Physical activity is effective in the treatment of depression and current guidelines explicitly recommend it as a complementary method for the treatment of depression. Nevertheless, body-related interventions are still underrepresented in current treatments for depression. Bouldering psychotherapy (BPT) combines physical activity with psychotherapeutic content. Its concept relies on proven effective factors from CBT such as exposure training, problem solving and practicing new functional behaviours and is thus an enrichment and implementation of CBT methods on the bouldering wall. The positive effect of group bouldering psychotherapy (BPT) in reducing depressive symptoms in outpatients with depression is not inferior to the effect of group cognitive behavioural therapy (CBT). Additionally the 10-weeks BPT-programme significantly improved symptoms of anxiety and interpersonal sensitivity as well as health-related quality of life, coping, body image, self-efficacy, and global self-esteem.


Asunto(s)
Terapia Cognitivo-Conductual , Depresión , Terapia Cognitivo-Conductual/métodos , Depresión/psicología , Depresión/terapia , Humanos , Psicoterapia , Calidad de Vida , Resultado del Tratamiento
9.
J Ultrasound Med ; 41(5): 1047-1059, 2022 May.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34342037

RESUMEN

Injury to the A2 pulley is caused by high eccentric forces on the flexor-tendon-pulley system. Accurate diagnosis is necessary to identify the most appropriate treatment options. This review summarizes the literature with respect to using ultrasound (US) to diagnose A2 pulley injuries, compares ultrasound to magnetic resonance imaging and computed tomography, and identifies current knowledge gaps. The results suggest that US should be used as the primary imaging modality given high accuracy, relatively low cost, ease of access, and dynamic imaging capabilities. Manual resistance is beneficial to accentuate bowstringing, but further research is needed to determine best positioning for evaluation.


Asunto(s)
Traumatismos de los Dedos , Montañismo , Traumatismos de los Tendones , Humanos , Montañismo/lesiones , Rotura/terapia , Traumatismos de los Tendones/diagnóstico por imagen , Ultrasonografía/efectos adversos
10.
Sensors (Basel) ; 22(16)2022 Aug 20.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36016034

RESUMEN

Competitive indoor climbing has increased in popularity at the youth, collegiate, and Olympic levels. A critical aspect for improving performance is characterizing the physiologic response to different climbing strategies (e.g., work/rest patterns, pacing) and techniques (e.g., body position and movement) relative to location on climbing wall with spatially varying characteristics (e.g., wall inclinations, position of foot/hand holds). However, this response is not well understood due to the limited capabilities of climbing-specific measurement and assessment tools. In this study, we developed a novel method to examine time-resolved sensor-based measurements of multiple personal biometrics at different microlocations (finely spaced positions; MLs) along a climbing route. For the ML-specific biometric system (MLBS), we integrated continuous data from wearable biometric sensors and smartphone-based video during climbing, with a customized visualization and analysis system to determine three physiologic parameters (heart rate, breathing rate, ventilation rate) and one body movement parameter (hip acceleration), which are automatically time-matched to the corresponding video frame to determine ML-specific biometrics. Key features include: (1) biometric sensors that are seamlessly embedded in the fabric of an athletic compression shirt, and do not interfere with climbing performance, (2) climbing video, and (3) an interactive graphical user interface to rapidly visualize and analyze the time-matched biometrics and climbing video, determine timing sequence between the biometrics at key events, and calculate summary statistics. To demonstrate the capabilities of MLBS, we examined the relationship between changes in ML-specific climbing characteristics and changes in the physiologic parameters. Our study demonstrates the ability of MLBS to determine multiple time-resolved biometrics at different MLs, in support of developing and assessing different climbing strategies and training methods to help improve performance.


Asunto(s)
Deportes , Dispositivos Electrónicos Vestibles , Adolescente , Biometría , Humanos , Movimiento/fisiología , Postura , Deportes/fisiología
11.
Wilderness Environ Med ; 33(1): 25-32, 2022 03.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35144853

RESUMEN

INTRODUCTION: Competitive rock climbing is a fast-growing sport. Despite comprehensive reviews on adult climbing-related injuries, few pediatric-specific reviews exist, and studies exclusively on competitive youth climbers are needed. Objectives of this study include 1) estimating the injury rate (IR); 2) describing injury patterns and mechanisms; and 3) identifying injury risk factors in competitive youth climbers. METHODS: The study design was cross-sectional. Competitive youth climbers were included. Participants completed an anonymous questionnaire to document climbing injuries over the preceding 12 mo. Demographic data and data regarding injuries were collected. The IR was calculated. Analyses were performed to assess association between injury and multiple variables. Multivariate logistic regression was completed for significant variables to control for exposure time. RESULTS: The IR was 2.7 injuries per 1000 climbing hours. Hand/Finger injuries were most frequent; chronic overuse was the most common etiology. Injury severity was low overall. Risk factors significantly associated with climbing injury were climbing discipline (bouldering > sport/lead climbing), return to climbing while still in pain, finger taping, higher number of hours climbed per session and per year, climbing at higher bouldering difficulties, and unsupervised climbing. CONCLUSIONS: The IR in competitive youth climbers was found to be lower than previously reported but higher than suggested by adult studies or those that exclude chronic injuries. Findings are consistent with types, severity, and mechanisms reported in other studies. Modifiable risk factors, especially return to climbing while still injured, warrant further prospective investigation.


Asunto(s)
Traumatismos en Atletas , Traumatismos de los Dedos , Traumatismos de la Mano , Montañismo , Deportes , Adolescente , Adulto , Traumatismos en Atletas/epidemiología , Traumatismos en Atletas/etiología , Niño , Estudios Transversales , Humanos , Montañismo/lesiones , Factores de Riesgo , Estados Unidos/epidemiología
12.
J Exp Biol ; 224(13)2021 07 01.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34160049

RESUMEN

Previous studies in primates and other animals have shown that mass-specific cost of transport (J kg-1 m-1) for climbing is independent of body size across species, but little is known about within-species allometry of climbing costs or the effects of difficulty and velocity. Here, we assessed the effects of velocity, route difficulty and anatomical variation on the energetic cost of climbing within humans. Twelve experienced rock climbers climbed on an indoor wall over a range of difficulty levels and velocities, with energy expenditure measured via respirometry. We found no effect of body mass or limb proportions on mass-specific cost of transport among subjects. Mass-specific cost of transport was negatively correlated with climbing velocity. Increased route difficulty was associated with slower climbing velocities and thus higher costs, but there was no statistically significant effect of route difficulty on energy expenditure independent of velocity. Finally, human climbing costs measured in this study were similar to published values for other primates, suggesting arboreal adaptations have a negligible effect on climbing efficiency.


Asunto(s)
Montañismo , Animales , Tamaño Corporal , Metabolismo Energético , Humanos
13.
Br J Sports Med ; 55(15): 857-864, 2021 Aug.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33036996

RESUMEN

Climbing as a competition sport has become increasingly popular in recent years, particularly the sub-discipline of bouldering. The sport will debut in the Tokyo Summer Olympic Games. National and international competitions have three disciplines: lead (climbing with rope protection), bouldering (climbing at lower heights with mattress floor protection) and speed (maximum speed climbing on a standardised route in 1-on-1 mode). There is also a 'combined mode' of all three disciplines (combined) which forms the Olympic competition format; all competition formats are held on artificial walls. Existing literature describes a predominantly low injury frequency and severity in elite climbing. In comparison to climbing on real rock, artificial climbing walls have recently been associated with higher injury rates. Finger injuries such as tenosynovitis, pulley lesions and growth plate injuries are the most common injuries. As finger injuries are sport-specific, medical supervision of climbing athletes requires specific medical knowledge for diagnosis and treatment. There is so far little evidence on effective injury prevention measures in top athletes, and antidoping measures, in general, requiring further work in this field. An improved data situation regarding high-performance climbing athletes is crucial to ensure that the sport continues to be largely safe and injury-free and to prevent doping cases as extensively as possible.


Asunto(s)
Montañismo/lesiones , Adolescente , Factores de Edad , Doping en los Deportes/legislación & jurisprudencia , Doping en los Deportes/prevención & control , Femenino , Traumatismos de los Dedos/diagnóstico , Traumatismos de los Dedos/epidemiología , Traumatismos de los Dedos/prevención & control , Humanos , Masculino , Montañismo/clasificación , Montañismo/estadística & datos numéricos , Montañismo/tendencias , Fracturas de Salter-Harris/diagnóstico por imagen , Tenosinovitis/diagnóstico , Tenosinovitis/etiología , Tenosinovitis/terapia , Extremidad Superior/lesiones , Adulto Joven
14.
J Shoulder Elbow Surg ; 30(9): 2022-2031, 2021 Sep.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33545338

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: Rock climbers are particularly susceptible to shoulder injuries due to repetitive upper-limb movements on vertical or overhanging terrain. However, the long-term effects of prolonged climbing on the shoulder joints are still unknown. PURPOSE: The purpose of this study was to analyze the prevalence of pain and degenerative changes in the shoulder joints after high-level rock climbing over at least 25 years. We hypothesized that specific climber-associated patterns of degeneration would be found. METHODS: Thirty-one adult male high-level rock climbers were compared to an age- and sex-matched control group of 31 nonclimbers. All participants underwent a detailed interview, standardized clinical examination, and bilateral (climbers) or unilateral (nonclimbers, dominant side) magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) scans. Clinical and MRI findings of the groups were compared. RESULTS: The lifetime prevalence of shoulder pain in the rock climbers was 77%. The rock climbers had significantly more abnormalities in the labrum (82% vs. 52%; P = .002), long biceps tendon (53% vs. 23%; P = .006), and cartilage (28% vs. 3%; P = .005). These increased changes positively correlated with climbing intensity. There were no differences between the 2 groups with respect to rotator cuff tendon pathology (68% vs. 58%; P = .331) and acromioclavicular joint degeneration (88% vs. 90%; P = .713). Despite the increased degenerative changes in the rock climbers, their Constant score (CS) was still better than that of the nonclimbers (CS 94, interquartile range [IQR] 92-97, vs. CS 93, IQR 91-95; P = .019). CONCLUSIONS: Prolonged high-level rock climbing leads to a high prevalence of shoulder pain and increased degenerative changes to the labrum, long biceps tendon, and cartilage. However, it is not related to any restriction in shoulder function.


Asunto(s)
Traumatismos en Atletas , Montañismo , Lesiones del Hombro , Adulto , Humanos , Imagen por Resonancia Magnética , Masculino , Hombro , Lesiones del Hombro/diagnóstico por imagen
15.
Wilderness Environ Med ; 32(2): 168-175, 2021 Jun.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33972161

RESUMEN

INTRODUCTION: Campus board training in adolescent climbers is controversial. Evidence, albeit limited, suggests this type of training may lead to the development of finger epiphyseal stress fractures. The purpose of the present study was to investigate coaches' attitudes toward campus board training in the United States. METHODS: Surveys were sent to 116 coaches at gyms across the United States with affiliated adolescent climbing teams. Outcomes collected included demographic information, training time, campus board use prevalence, coaches' attitudes toward campus board use, and willingness to participate in future research. RESULTS: Seventy-three coaches representing 3090 adolescent climbers completed the survey. Forty-six coaches (63%) reported using full weight (no foot contact) campus board training in some or all of their climbers. A variety of factors were cited by coaches when deciding which climbers should or should not use the campus board, including physical maturity, climbing ability, and age, among others. CONCLUSIONS: Climbing coaches in the United States disagree on the use of campus board training in adolescent climbers. Some coaches avoid using this training modality entirely, whereas others believe certain climbers can use it safely. There is lack of consensus in determining who those certain climbers are.


Asunto(s)
Montañismo , Adolescente , Actitud , Dedos , Humanos , Encuestas y Cuestionarios , Estados Unidos
16.
Wilderness Environ Med ; 32(2): 160-167, 2021 Jun.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33966976

RESUMEN

INTRODUCTION: Bouldering has become a sport of growing interest, but little prospective evidence exists about injury proportions and patterns. The purpose of this study was to prospectively evaluate the cause of injuries sustained during indoor bouldering, proportion of affected body location, and injury severity. METHODS: Proportions and patterns of injury among German-speaking indoor boulderers were evaluated prospectively in an explorative cohort study. Participants completed a baseline questionnaire assessing anthropometric data and sport-specific potential preventive and risk factors, followed by monthly injury questionnaires including injury location and injury severity over a period of 12 mo. RESULTS: Out of 507 boulderers, 222 (44%) sustained 305 injuries. Of those, 78% (n=238) were classified as Union Internationale de Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) 1, 19% (n=57) as UIAA 2, and 3% (n=10) as UIAA 3. Injuries of the upper extremities accounted for 63% (n=191) of all injuries. Injuries of the lower extremities accounted for 23% (n=71) but were more often classified as UIAA≥2 (P=0.0071; odds ratio [OR] 2.23; 95% CI 1.23-4.04) and were more often caused by falling (P=0.0005; OR 2.92; 95% CI 1.57-5.42) and jumping off the wall (P<0.0001; OR 4.39; 95% CI 2.25-8.56) than injuries of other body locations. There was no statistically significant protective effect of the evaluated potential preventive measures. Participants who used heavily downturned climbing shoes had a higher risk of sustaining a UIAA ≥2 injury (P=0.0034; OR 2.58; 95% CI 1.34-4.95). CONCLUSIONS: Injuries in indoor bouldering are common. Lower extremity injuries are associated with higher injury severity. Preventive measures need to be established to reduce bouldering injuries, especially during falls and landings.


Asunto(s)
Traumatismos en Atletas , Montañismo , Deportes , Traumatismos en Atletas/epidemiología , Traumatismos en Atletas/etiología , Estudios de Cohortes , Humanos , Estudios Prospectivos
17.
Wilderness Environ Med ; 31(4): 394-399, 2020 Dec.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32981830

RESUMEN

INTRODUCTION: Finger growth plate injuries are the most common injury among youth climbers, and the association between these injuries and speed climbing, a mandatory discipline in the 2021 Olympics, has not been examined previously. Our primary purpose was to examine the demographic and training characteristics of adolescent competition climbers who reported a history of a finger growth plate injury compared to those who did not report a history of a finger growth plate injury. Our secondary purpose was to determine whether training characteristics differed between adolescent competition climbers who did and did not report speed climbing. METHODS: Our study was a cross-sectional study design. We surveyed adolescent climbers who competed in the 2017 USA Climbing Sport and Speed Youth National Championships. Questions assessed climbing injury history and current rock-climbing training characteristics. RESULTS: Two-hundred sixty-seven adolescent competition climbers, 14±3 (9-18) y of age (mean±SD with range), completed the survey. Those with a history of a finger growth plate injury reported greater approximate time spent speed climbing throughout the year (ß=1.28, 95% CI 0.11-2.46, P=0.032) and training regularly on the International Federation of Sport Climbing speed wall (adjusted odds ratio=3.95, 95% CI 1.14-13.7, P=0.031). CONCLUSIONS: Training regularly at practices on the speed wall was associated with a self-reported history of finger growth plate injuries among elite youth competition climbers. Speed climbing should be limited, especially during periods of rapid growth.


Asunto(s)
Traumatismos en Atletas/etiología , Dedos , Fracturas de Salter-Harris/etiología , Deportes , Adolescente , Traumatismos en Atletas/patología , Niño , Estudios Transversales , Femenino , Humanos , Masculino , Montañismo/lesiones
18.
Wilderness Environ Med ; 31(3): 298-302, 2020 Sep.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32800446

RESUMEN

INTRODUCTION: Rock climbing and mountaineering may result in injury requiring hospital admission. Readmission frequency after climbing-related injury is unknown. The aim of this study was to assess readmission frequency, morbidity, and mortality after admission for climbing-related injury. METHODS: We performed a retrospective analysis of the 2012 to 2014 national readmission database, a nationally representative sample of all hospitalized patients. Rock climbing, mountain climbing, and wall climbing injuries were identified using International Classification of Diseases-Ninth Revision-Clinical Modification codes (E004.0). Outcomes evaluated included readmission frequency, morbidity, mortality, inpatient admission, and costs. Adjusted analyses accounting for survey methodology were performed. Data are presented as mean±SD. RESULTS: A weighted-estimate 1324 inpatient admissions were associated with a climbing-related injury. Most patients were aged 18 to 44 y (64%), and 68% (n=896) were male. Isolated extremity injures were more common than other injuries (49%, n=645). Sixty-five percent (n=856) underwent a major operative procedure. Less than 1% of all climbing-related visits resulted in death. Within 6 mo of the index hospitalization, 2% (n=23) of the patients had at least 1 readmission, with a time to readmission of 9.9±6.6 (95% CI 4.5-15.4) d. Only female sex was associated with increased odds of readmission (odds ratio=5.5; 95% CI 1.5-20.1; P=0.01). CONCLUSIONS: There is a very low frequency of readmissions after being admitted to the hospital for climbing-related injury. A considerable opportunity to describe the long-term burden of climbing-related injury exists, and further research should be done to assess injury burden treated in the outpatient setting.


Asunto(s)
Traumatismos en Atletas/epidemiología , Montañismo/lesiones , Readmisión del Paciente/estadística & datos numéricos , Adolescente , Adulto , Anciano , Traumatismos en Atletas/clasificación , Traumatismos en Atletas/etiología , Traumatismos en Atletas/mortalidad , Niño , Preescolar , Femenino , Humanos , Incidencia , Masculino , Persona de Mediana Edad , Morbilidad , Estados Unidos/epidemiología , Adulto Joven
19.
BMC Psychiatry ; 19(1): 154, 2019 05 17.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-31101097

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: Besides classical approaches for treating depression, physical activity has been demonstrated to be an effective option. Bouldering psychotherapy (BPT) combines psychotherapeutic interventions with action-oriented elements from the field of climbing. The aim of this study is to investigate the effectiveness of BPT compared with a home-based exercise program (EP - active control group, superiority trial) and state-of-the-art cognitive behavioural therapy (CBT - non-inferiority trial). METHODS: The study is being conducted as a multicentre randomised controlled intervention trial at three locations in Germany. Participants are being randomised into three groups: BPT, CBT, or EP, each with a 10-week treatment phase. A power analysis indicated that about 240 people should initially be included. The primary outcome of the study is the Montgomery and Asberg Depression Rating Scale (MADRS) directly after the intervention. Additional measurement points are located three, six, and 12 months after the end of the intervention. The data are being collected via computer-assisted telephone interviews. Statistical analyses comprise regression analyses to test for the superiority of BPT over EP. To test for the non-inferiority of BPT and CBT, a non-inferiority margin of 1.9 points in the Patient Health Questionnaire (PHQ-9) and two non-inferiority margins for the MADRS (half of the two smallest Cohen's d values from the current meta-analyses) was predefined. The mean difference between CBT and EP is being used as a supplementary equivalence margin. DISCUSSION: This is the first study to investigate the effect of a bouldering psychotherapy (BPT) on outpatients' depressive symptoms compared with mere physical activity (superiority analysis) and state-of-the-art cognitive behavioural therapy (CBT, non-inferiority analysis). Methodological strengths of the study are the elaborated, multicentred, randomised, controlled design. Assessors are blinded with regard to group allocation which leads to high objectivity. The study is conducted in a naturalistic setting, which leads to high external validity. Methodological limitations might be the clinical heterogeneity of the sample, which may dilute the intervention effects. TRIAL REGISTRATION: ISRCTN12457760 (Registration date: 26 July 2017, retrospectively registered).


Asunto(s)
Terapia Cognitivo-Conductual/métodos , Depresión/psicología , Depresión/terapia , Montañismo/psicología , Pacientes Ambulatorios/psicología , Psicoterapia de Grupo/métodos , Adolescente , Adulto , Depresión/epidemiología , Femenino , Alemania/epidemiología , Humanos , Estudios Longitudinales , Cuestionario de Salud del Paciente , Estudios Prospectivos , Estudios Retrospectivos , Resultado del Tratamiento
20.
Skeletal Radiol ; 48(9): 1435-1437, 2019 Sep.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-31037344

RESUMEN

OBJECTIVE: Injuries of the flexor-tendon-pulley system are common in rock climbers. The status of the A3 pulley ligament is crucial for grading such injuries. As standard MRI may miss lesions of the A3 pulley ligament, we introduce a semi-dynamic MRI sequence. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Twenty-two fingers (14 volunteers, 3 injured climbers) were scanned using a sagittal T1 turbo spin echo sequence (repetition time: 400 ms, echo time: 14 ms, slice thickness: 5 mm) in six consecutive finger positions from stretched to maximum possible flexion. RESULTS: No pulley lesion was found in volunteers. Bowstringing was detected in 3 injured fingers including the A3 pulley. CONCLUSION: Semi-dynamic MRI is an technique that is easy to perform to identify injuries of the A3 pulley ligament that were not seen on standard imaging.


Asunto(s)
Traumatismos de los Dedos/diagnóstico por imagen , Ligamentos/diagnóstico por imagen , Ligamentos/lesiones , Imagen por Resonancia Magnética/métodos , Montañismo/lesiones , Traumatismos de los Tendones/diagnóstico por imagen , Femenino , Dedos/diagnóstico por imagen , Humanos , Masculino , Tendones/diagnóstico por imagen
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