Zinc oxide-induced changes to sunscreen ingredient efficacy and toxicity under UV irradiation.

Sunscreen safety and efficacy is generally evaluated based upon the properties of the individual chemicals in a formulation. However, the photostability of sunscreens has been shown to be highly dependent on the mixture of chemicals present. To better understand how sunscreen formulation influences stability, and to establish a foundation for probing the influence of zinc oxide additives, we formulated five different small-molecule based ultraviolet-filter (UV-filter) mixtures with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 15. These mixtures contained active ingredients approved in either the United States or European Union and were designed to represent formulations of actual products on the market. We evaluated the photostability and toxicity of these mixtures in the absence and presence of zinc oxide after UV exposure for two hours. Changes in UV absorbance were minimal for all five small-molecule-based mixtures without zinc oxide. The presence of either micro- or nano-sized zinc oxide caused significant small-molecule photodegradation and the degraded mixtures exhibited higher levels of toxicity in embryonic zebrafish assays. This study suggests that caution must be taken when formulating sunscreens containing both zinc oxide and small-molecule UV-filters to avoid unintended consequences during use.

Coloration in Flow: The Potential of In Situ Coloration of Casein Fibers to Mitigate Environmental Impact of Traditional Dyeing Methods.

The environmental impact of the textiles and food industries can no longer be ignored, and while combining natural protein-based fibers with natural colorants, each derived from food waste, has the potential to offer increased sustainability based on a circular economy, it fails to address other environmentally detrimental textile production steps, such as coloration. This work explores the potential of a new, novel method for in situ coloration of regenerated protein fibers using an anthocyanin-based natural dye, used within the wet-spinning process, to reduce the environmental impact of the dyeing process. It is observed that similar or improved dye sorption and much improved 3D sustainability metrics (energy and material intensity) can be achieved through dyeing of casein fibers in flow, with higher color strength (K/Sλmax = 2.5) observed under milder conditions (room temperature, 10 s) compared to conventional dyeing (K/Sλmax = 1.0 at 40 °C, 30 min; K/Sλmax = 2.7 at 80 °C, 30 min). Energy intensity calculations show conventional dyeing requires 1.7-5.0 MJ kg-1 fiber, depending on the dyeing temperature for experiments performed in this paper and up to 13.4 MJ kg-1 fiber for examples in the literature. Using coloration in flow, energy intensity is negligible showcasing a vast improvement in energy-based metrics. The in situ experimental method showed a material intensity of 10.2 compared to 21.2 of the conventional method explored and up to 40.2 for examples in the literature, making the process in flow far less material intensive than conventional coloration methods, with additional potential for further material savings due to the recycling potential of the dyebath, which does not require auxiliary dyeing chemicals. Space time yield calculations showed that the productivity of the proposed method in flow is much higher (182.4 g L-1 h-1) compared to the conventional batch process (33.3-60.0 g L-1 h-1).

Chemo- and regio-selective enzymatic lipophilisation of rutin, and physicochemical and antioxidant properties of rutin ester derivatives.

Enzymes are one of the most powerful tools in organic Green Chemistry and enzymatic reactions offer numerous advantages like regio- and enantio-selectivity along with their eco-friendly and sustainable nature. More specifically, lipases can catalyse both ester hydrolysis and formation depending on the nature of the substrate and water content. Herein, the focus is on the development of an enzymatically catalysed lipophilisation of natural compounds using lipases of microbial origin and the investigation of the optimal reaction conditions, aiming ultimately to ameliorate the compounds' properties. The flavonoid disaccharide rutin (quercetin-3-O-rutinoside) was the model compound on which the acylation protocol was built, allowing an efficient procedure to be established, while simultaneously offering the possibility of developing rapid, clear and robust methodologies, using state-of-the-art techniques, for analysis and purification of the synthesized compounds. An optimal 72 h reaction at 55 °C, using Candida antarctica lipase B immobilized on acrylic resin, combined with silicon dioxide as dehydrating agent, followed by product purification, achieved conversion ratios up to 50%. Full characterization and evaluation of the physicochemical and antioxidant properties of the esterified compounds was obtained. The lipophilicity of the rutin esters produced increased with increasing alkyl chain length, yet antioxidant properties were unaffected in comparison with the parent compound. A preparatively useful acylation protocol was established, allowing full investigation into the properties of the acylated compounds. It is also applicable for use on mixtures of compounds as most natural products are found in nature in mixtures and such a development greatly enhances the potential of this method for future commercial applications.

Comparative analysis of crystallinity changes in cellulose I polymers using ATR-FTIR, X-ray diffraction, and carbohydrate-binding module probes.

Cotton fiber cellulose is highly crystalline and oriented; when native cellulose (cellulose I) is treated with certain alkali concentrations, intermolecular hydrogen bonds are broken and Na-cellulose I is formed. At higher alkali concentrations Na-cellulose II forms, wherein intermolecular and intramolecular hydrogen bonds are broken, ultimately resulting in cellulose II polymers. Crystallinity changes in cotton fibers were observed and assigned using attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared (ATR FT-IR) spectroscopy and X-ray diffraction (XRD) subsequent to sodium hydroxide treatment and compared with an in situ protein-binding methodology using cellulose-directed carbohydrate-binding modules (CBMs). Crystallinity changes observed using CBM probes for crystalline cellulose (CBM2a, CBM3a) and amorphous cellulose (CBM4-1, CBM17) displayed close agreement with changes in crystallinity observed with ATR-FTIR techniques, but it is notable that crystallinity changes observed with CBMs are observed at lower NaOH concentrations (2.0 mol dm(-3)), indicating these probes may be more sensitive in detecting crystallinity changes than those calculated using FTIR indices. It was observed that the concentration of NaOH at which crystallinity changes occur as analyzed using the CBM labeling techniques are also lower than those observed using X-ray diffraction techniques. Analysis of crystallinity changes in cellulose using CBMs offers a new and advantageous method of qualitative and quantitative assessment of changes to the structure of cellulose that occur with sodium hydroxide treatment.

Enhancing the Potential Exploitation of Food Waste: Extraction, Purification, and Characterization of Renewable Specialty Chemicals from Blackcurrants ( Ribes nigrum L.).

Natural colorants were extracted from renewable botanical sources, specifically waste epicarp from the blackcurrant fruit pressing industry. A process was developed which used acidified water extraction followed by a solid-phase extraction (SPE) purification stage which allowed the production of an anthocyanin-rich extract in good yields (ca. 2% w/ w based on dry weight of raw material). The components in the extracts were extensively characterized by HPLC, mass spectrometry, IR, NMR, and UV-vis spectroscopy. HPLC confirmed presence of four anthocyanins: delphinidin-3- O-rutinoside (45%), cyanidin-3- O-rutinoside (31%), and the corresponding glucosides at 16% and 8%, respectively. On sequential liquid-liquid aqueous-organic partitioning of the post-SPE sample, monomeric anthocyanins (54.7%) and polymeric anthocyanins (18%) were found in the aqueous layer with 3- O-rutinosides of myricetin (3.1%) and quercetin (3.2%), while isopropylacetate achieved selective extraction of caffeic acid (3%), p-coumaric acid (5%), and myricetin (2.5%) and quercetin (3.2%) aglycons. 3- O-Glucosides of myricetin (3.1%) and quercetin (2%), along with nigrumin- p-coumarate (1%) and nigrumin ferulate (0.5%) were selectively extracted from the remaining aqueous fraction using ethyl acetate. This allowed for near total quantification of the blackcurrant extract composition.

Enrichment of cellulose acetate nanofibre assemblies for therapeutic delivery of l-tryptophan.

The essential amino acid l-tryptophan is naturally present in the body, and is also available as a water soluble dietary supplement. The feasibility of preparing enriched cellulose acetate (CA)-based fibres as a vehicle for therapeutic delivery of such biomolecules was investigated. A new ternary solvent system consisting of acetone: N,N-dimethylacetamide: methanol (2:1:2) has been demonstrated to permit the solution blending of CA with the water soluble l-tryptophan. Nanofibrous webs substantially free of structural defects were continuously produced with mean fibre diameters in the range of 520-1010nm, dependent on process parameters. Morphology and diameter of fibres were influenced by concentration of CA spinning solution, applied voltage and flow rates. The kinetic release profile of l-tryptophan from electrospun CA nanofibres was described by the pseudo-second order kinetic model. Fibres with mean diameter of 720nm provide both the highest initial desorption rate and rate constant, which was partially attributed to the low fibre diameter and high relative surface area, but also the fact that the 720nm fibres produced were the most bead-free, providing diffusion advantages over the fibres with lowest mean diameter (520nm). The feasibility of combining l-tryptophan within fibres provides a promising route for manufacture of transdermal delivery devices.

Selective enzymatic lipophilization of anthocyanin glucosides from blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum L.) skin extract and characterization of esterified anthocyanins.

Anthocyanins (ANC) are hydrophilic and water-soluble polyphenolic plant pigments. The current barriers to successful application of ANC in the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries are predominantly related to performance, stability, formulation properties, and color. Enzymatic acylation of ANC could increase their stability without compromising bioactivity and chromatic features. Lipophilization of ANC-rich blackcurrant skin extract with Candida antarctica lipase B and octanoic acid was selective to cyanidin and delphinidin glucosides, but not the corresponding rutinosides. The reaction was chemo- and regioselective for acylation at the primary alcohol of the glucose moieties, greatly facilitating separation of the different glycoside derivatives.

Application of Anthocyanins from Blackcurrant ( Ribes nigrum L.) Fruit Waste as Renewable Hair Dyes.

There is much concern about the toxicological effects of synthetic hair dyes. As an alternative approach, renewable waste blackcurrant ( Ribes nigrum L.) fruit skins from the fruit pressing industry were extracted using acidified water with a solid-phase purification stage. Anthocyanin colorants were isolated in good yields (2-3% w/ w) and characterized by HPLC. Sorption of anthocyanins onto hair followed a Freundlich isotherm; anthocyanin-anthocyanin aggregation interactions enabled high buildup on the substrate. Sorption energy of cyanidin-3- O-glucoside (monosaccharide) > cyanidin-3- O-rutinoside (disaccharide), but sorption properties of different anthocyanin glucosides were very similar. Intense blue-colored dyeing on hair could be achieved with λmax-vis at 580 nm, typical of the anionic quinonoid base; it is suggested that hair provides an environment that enables the stabilization of the anionic quinonoid base on adsorption through association with cations in the hair and copigmentation effects. Dyeings were stable to multiple washes.

Acute metabolic actions of the major polyphenols in chamomile: an in vitro mechanistic study on their potential to attenuate postprandial hyperglycaemia.

Transient hyperglycaemia is a risk factor for type 2 diabetes and endothelial dysfunction, especially in subjects with impaired glucose tolerance. Nutritional interventions and strategies for controlling postprandial overshoot of blood sugars are considered key in preventing progress to the disease state. We have identified apigenin-7-O-glucoside, apigenin, and (Z) and (E)-2-hydroxy-4-methoxycinnamic acid glucosides as the active (poly)phenols in Chamomile (Matricaria recutita) able to modulate carbohydrate digestion and absorption in vitro as assessed by inhibition of α-amylase and maltase activities. The latter two compounds previously mistakenly identified as ferulic acid hexosides were purified and characterised and studied for their contribution to the overall bioactivity of chamomile. Molecular docking studies revealed that apigenin and cinnamic acids present totally different poses in the active site of human α-amylase. In differentiated Caco-2/TC7 cell monolayers, apigenin-7-O-glucoside and apigenin strongly inhibited D-[U-14C]-glucose and D-[U-14C]-sucrose transport, and less effectively D-[U-14C]-fructose transport. Inhibition of D-[U-14C]-glucose transport by apigenin was stronger under Na+-depleted conditions, suggesting interaction with the GLUT2 transporter. Competitive binding studies with molecular probes indicate apigenin interacts primarily at the exofacial-binding site of GLUT2. Taken together, the individual components of Chamomile are promising agents for regulating carbohydrate digestion and sugar absorption at the site of the gastrointestinal tract.

Sorption of chlorhexidine on cellulose: mechanism of binding and molecular recognition.

Chlorhexidine (CH) is an effective antimicrobial agent. There has been very little work published concerning the interactions of CH with, and its adsorption mechanism on, cellulose. In this paper, such physical chemistry parameters are examined and related to computational chemistry studies. Adsorption isotherms were constructed following application of CH to cellulose. These were typical of a Langmuir adsorption isotherm, but at higher concentrations displayed good correlation also with a Freundlich isotherm. Sorption was attributed to a combination of electrostatic (major contribution) and hydrogen bonding forces, which endorsed computational chemistry proposals: electrostatic interactions between CH and carboxylic acid groups in the cellulose dominate with a contribution to binding through hydrogen bonding of the biguanide residues and the p-chlorophenol moieties (Yoshida H-bonding) with the cellulose hydroxyl groups. At high CH concentrations, there is evidence of monolayer and bilayer aggregation. Differences in sorption between CH and another antimicrobial agent previously studied, poly(hexamethylenebiguanide) (PHMB), are attributed to higher molecular weight of PHMB and higher charge density of biguanide residues in CH (due to the relative electron withdrawing effect of the p-chlorophenol moiety).

Substitution of PFAS chemistry in outdoor apparel and the impact on repellency performance.

Intensifying legislation and increased research on the toxicological and persistent nature of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs) have recently influenced the direction of liquid repellent chemistry use; environmental, social, and sustainability responsibilities are at the crux. Without PFAS chemistry, it is challenging to meet current textile industry liquid repellency requirements, which is a highly desirable property, particularly in outdoor apparel where the technology helps to provide the wearer with essential protection from adverse environmental conditions. Herein, complexities between required functionality, legislation and sustainability within outdoor apparel are discussed, and fundamental technical performance of commercially available long-chain (C8) PFASs, shorter-chain (C6) PFASs, and non-fluorinated repellent chemistries finishes are evaluated comparatively. Non-fluorinated finishes provided no oil repellency, and were clearly inferior in this property to PFAS-finished fabrics that demonstrated good oil-resistance. However, water repellency ratings were similar across the range of all finished fabrics tested, all demonstrating a high level of resistance to wetting, and several non-fluorinated repellent fabrics provide similar water repellency to long-chain (C8) PFAS or shorter-chain (C6) PFAS finished fabrics. The primary repellency function required in outdoor apparel is water repellency, and we would propose that the use of PFAS chemistry for such garments is over-engineering, providing oil repellency that is in excess of user requirements. Accordingly, significant environmental and toxicological benefits could be achieved by switching outdoor apparel to non-fluorinated finishes without a significant reduction in garment water-repellency performance. These conclusions are being supported by further research into the effect of laundering, abrasion and ageing of these fabrics.

Mild extraction methods using aqueous glucose solution for the analysis of natural dyes in textile artefacts dyed with Dyer's madder (Rubia tinctorum L.).

Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) has been widely used as a red dye throughout history. Acid-sensitive colorants present in madder, such as glycosides (lucidin primeveroside, ruberythric acid, galiosin) and sensitive aglycons (lucidin), are degraded in the textile back extraction process; in previous literature these sensitive molecules are either absent or present in only low concentrations due to the use of acid in typical textile back extraction processes. Anthraquinone aglycons alizarin and purpurin are usually identified in analysis following harsh back extraction methods, such those using solvent mixtures with concentrated hydrochloric acid at high temperatures. Use of softer extraction techniques potentially allows for dye components present in madder to be extracted without degradation, which can potentially provide more information about the original dye profile, which varies significantly between madder varieties, species and dyeing technique. Herein, a softer extraction method involving aqueous glucose solution was developed and compared to other back extraction techniques on wool dyed with root extract from different varieties of Rubia tinctorum. Efficiencies of the extraction methods were analysed by HPLC coupled with diode array detection. Acidic literature methods were evaluated and they generally caused hydrolysis and degradation of the dye components, with alizarin, lucidin, and purpurin being the main compounds extracted. In contrast, extraction in aqueous glucose solution provides a highly effective method for extraction of madder dyed wool and is shown to efficiently extract lucidin primeveroside and ruberythric acid without causing hydrolysis and also extract aglycons that are present due to hydrolysis during processing of the plant material. Glucose solution is a favourable extraction medium due to its ability to form extensive hydrogen bonding with glycosides present in madder, and displace them from the fibre. This new glucose method offers an efficient process that preserves these sensitive molecules and is a step-change in analysis of madder dyed textiles as it can provide further information about historical dye preparation and dyeing processes that current methods cannot. The method also efficiently extracts glycosides in artificially aged samples, making it applicable for museum textile artefacts.

Isolation and extraction of ruberythric acid from Rubia tinctorum L. and crystal structure elucidation.

Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) has been exploited as a dye throughout history. The roots of the plant are very rich in the highly coloured glycosidic compounds ruberythric acid and lucidin primeveroside, alongside the corresponding aglycons which can be readily formed by deglycosylation, particularly during extraction. Supported by (1)H and (13)C NMR data, the conclusive X-ray crystal structure of the natural dye ruberythric acid is presented for the first time. The solid state structure revealed extensive intermolecular hydrogen bonding interactions between the sugar moieties in the unit cell, but only intramolecular hydrogen bonding through the hydroxyquinone groups. There is also some additional π-π stacking from the anthraquinone moiety.

Monoclonal antibodies directed to fucoidan preparations from brown algae.

Cell walls of the brown algae contain a diverse range of polysaccharides with useful bioactivities. The precise structures of the sulfated fucan/fucoidan group of polysaccharides and their roles in generating cell wall architectures and cell properties are not known in detail. Four rat monoclonal antibodies, BAM1 to BAM4, directed to sulfated fucan preparations, have been generated and used to dissect the heterogeneity of brown algal cell wall polysaccharides. BAM1 and BAM4, respectively, bind to a non-sulfated epitope and a sulfated epitope present in the sulfated fucan preparations. BAM2 and BAM3 identified additional distinct epitopes present in the fucoidan preparations. All four epitopes, not yet fully characterised, occur widely within the major brown algal taxonomic groups and show divergent distribution patterns in tissues. The analysis of cell wall extractions and fluorescence imaging reveal differences in the occurrence of the BAM1 to BAM4 epitopes in various tissues of Fucus vesiculosus. In Ectocarpus subulatus, a species closely related to the brown algal model Ectocarpus siliculosus, the BAM4 sulfated epitope was modulated in relation to salinity levels. This new set of monoclonal antibodies will be useful for the dissection of the highly complex and yet poorly resolved sulfated polysaccharides in the brown algae in relation to their ecological and economic significance.

Isolation and extraction of lucidin primeveroside from Rubia tinctorum L. and crystal structure elucidation.

Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) has been used as a dye for over 2000 years with alizarin and purpurin the major natural dyes analysed from extractions undertaken. The use of ethanol as the solvent in the extraction process produced an extract that yielded four anthraquinone compounds lucidin primeveroside, ruberythric acid, alizarin and lucidin-ω-ethyl ether. Gravitational separation of the extract was used to record the first crystal structure of lucidin primeveroside, which is also the first ever known crystal structure of a glycoside containing anthraquinone moiety. The crystal structure along with (1)H and (13)C NMR helped elucidate and confirm the structure of this overlooked natural dye which has been shown to be a major compound in R. tinctorum L.

Analysis of crystallinity changes in cellulose II polymers using carbohydrate-binding modules.

Carbohydrate-binding modules (CBMs) are a set of tools that can be used as molecular probes for studying plant cell walls and cellulose-based substrates. CBMs from enzymes of bacterial and fungal origin present a range of recognition capabilities for crystalline and amorphous cellulose. Here cellulose-directed CBMs have been used to visualize and quantify crystallinity changes in cellulose II-based polymers following NaOH treatment. Cellulose II polymers used were in the form of lyocell fibers, which are derived from eucalyptus wood pulp. The supramolecular structure, morphology, and existence of 'skin-core' model in the fiber were examined using CBM-labeling techniques. Changes in cellulose crystallinity showed maxima at 3.33 mol dm(-3) NaOH (under treatment conditions of 49 Nm(-1) at 25 °C) and 4.48 mol dm(-3) NaOH (under treatment conditions of 147 Nm(-1) at 40 °C); CBM methods were also suitable for quantifying changes within amorphous regions. Quantification of crystallinity changes using CBM labeling techniques was achieved in combination with image analysis, which was shown to reflect the same crystallinity changes as measured using ATR-FTIR methods. It was demonstrated that CBM-labeling techniques were able to validate the proposed 'skin-core' model of lyocell fibers, comprising a semi-permeable fiber skin and a porous core.

Optimizing the colour and fabric of targets for the control of the tsetse fly Glossina fuscipes fuscipes.

BACKGROUND: Most cases of human African trypanosomiasis (HAT) start with a bite from one of the subspecies of Glossina fuscipes. Tsetse use a range of olfactory and visual stimuli to locate their hosts and this response can be exploited to lure tsetse to insecticide-treated targets thereby reducing transmission. To provide a rational basis for cost-effective designs of target, we undertook studies to identify the optimal target colour. METHODOLOGY/PRINCIPAL FINDINGS: On the Chamaunga islands of Lake Victoria , Kenya, studies were made of the numbers of G. fuscipes fuscipes attracted to targets consisting of a panel (25 cm square) of various coloured fabrics flanked by a panel (also 25 cm square) of fine black netting. Both panels were covered with an electrocuting grid to catch tsetse as they contacted the target. The reflectances of the 37 different-coloured cloth panels utilised in the study were measured spectrophotometrically. Catch was positively correlated with percentage reflectance at the blue (460 nm) wavelength and negatively correlated with reflectance at UV (360 nm) and green (520 nm) wavelengths. The best target was subjectively blue, with percentage reflectances of 3%, 29%, and 20% at 360 nm, 460 nm and 520 nm respectively. The worst target was also, subjectively, blue, but with high reflectances at UV (35% reflectance at 360 nm) wavelengths as well as blue (36% reflectance at 460 nm); the best low UV-reflecting blue caught 3× more tsetse than the high UV-reflecting blue. CONCLUSIONS/SIGNIFICANCE: Insecticide-treated targets to control G. f. fuscipes should be blue with low reflectance in both the UV and green bands of the spectrum. Targets that are subjectively blue will perform poorly if they also reflect UV strongly. The selection of fabrics for targets should be guided by spectral analysis of the cloth across both the spectrum visible to humans and the UV region.

In situ analysis of cell wall polymers associated with phloem fibre cells in stems of hemp, Cannabis sativa L.

A study of stem anatomy and the sclerenchyma fibre cells associated with the phloem tissues of hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) plants is of interest for both understanding the formation of secondary cell walls and for the enhancement of fibre utility as industrial fibres and textiles. Using a range of molecular probes for cell wall polysaccharides we have surveyed the presence of cell wall components in stems of hemp in conjunction with an anatomical survey of stem and phloem fibre development. The only polysaccharide detected to occur abundantly throughout the secondary cell walls of phloem fibres was cellulose. Pectic homogalacturonan epitopes were detected in the primary cell walls/intercellular matrices between the phloem fibres although these epitopes were present at a lower level than in the surrounding parenchyma cell walls. Arabinogalactan-protein glycan epitopes displayed a diversity of occurrence in relation to fibre development and the JIM14 epitope was specific to fibre cells, binding to the inner surface of secondary cell walls, throughout development. Xylan epitopes were found to be present in the fibre cells (and xylem secondary cell walls) and absent from adjacent parenchyma cell walls. Analysis of xylan occurrence in the phloem fibre cells of hemp and flax indicated that xylan epitopes were restricted to the primary cell walls of fibre cells and were not present in the secondary cell walls of these cells.

Sorption of poly(hexamethylenebiguanide) on cellulose: mechanism of binding and molecular recognition.

Antimicrobial agents such as poly(hexamethylene biguanide) (PHMB) find application in medical, apparel, and household textile sectors; although it is understood that certain concentrations need to be applied to achieve suitable performance, there has been very little work published concerning the interactions of the polymer and its adsorption mechanism on cellulose. In this paper, such physical chemistry parameters are examined and related to computational chemistry studies. Adsorption isotherms were constructed: at low concentrations, these were typical Langmuir isotherms; at higher concentrations, they were more indicative of Freundlich isotherms, attributed to a combination of electrostatic and hydrogen-bonding forces, which endorsed computational chemistry proposals. At lower concentrations, electrostatic interactions between PHMB and carboxylic acid groups in the cellulose dominate with a contribution to binding through hydrogen bonding; as the concentration of PHMB increases, hydrogen bonding with cellulose becomes increasingly dominant. At high PHMB concentrations, observations of increasing PHMB adsorption are attributed to monolayer aggregation and multilayer stacking of PHMB through electrostatic interactions with counterions and hydrogen bonding of biguanide groups.