Melanin for Photoprotection and Hair Coloration in the Emerging Era of Nanocosmetics.

Nanotechnology is revolutionizing fields of high social and economic impact. such as human health preservation, energy conversion and storage, environmental decontamination, and art restoration. However, the possible global-scale application of nanomaterials is raising increasing concerns, mostly related to the possible toxicity of materials at the nanoscale. The possibility of using nanomaterials in cosmetics, and hence in products aimed to be applied directly to the human body, even just externally, is strongly debated. Preoccupation arises especially from the consideration that nanomaterials are mostly of synthetic origin, and hence are often seen as "artificial" and their effects as unpredictable. Melanin, in this framework, is a unique material since in nature it plays important roles that specific cosmetics are aimed to cover, such as photoprotection and hair and skin coloration. Moreover, melanin is mostly present in nature in the form of nanoparticles, as is clearly observable in the ink of some animals, like cuttlefish. Moreover, artificial melanin nanoparticles share the same high biocompatibility of the natural ones and the same unique chemical and photochemical properties. Melanin is hence a natural nanocosmetic agent, but its actual application in cosmetics is still under development, also because of regulatory issues. Here, we critically discuss the most recent examples of the application of natural and biomimetic melanin to cosmetics and highlight the requirements and future steps that would improve melanin-based cosmetics in the view of future applications in the everyday market.

Localized Crystallization of Calcium Phosphates by Light-Induced Processes.

Medical treatment options for bones and teeth can be significantly enhanced by taking control over the crystallization of biomaterials like hydroxyapatite in the healing process. Light-induced techniques are particularly interesting for this approach as they offer tremendous accuracy in spatial resolution. However, in the field of calcium phosphates, light-induced crystallization has not been investigated so far. Here, proof of principle is established to successfully induce carbonate-hydroxyapatite precipitation by light irradiation. Phosphoric acid is released by a photolabile molecule exclusively after irradiation, combining with calcium ions to form a calcium phosphate in the crystallization medium. 4-Nitrophenylphosphate (4NPP) is established as the photolabile molecule and the system is optimized and fully characterized. A calcium phosphate is crystallized exclusively by irradiation in aqueous solution and identified as carbonate apatite. Control over the localization and stabilization of the carbonate apatite is achieved by a pulsed laser, triggering precipitation in calcium and 4NPP-containing gel matrices. The results of this communication open up a wide range of new opportunities, both in the field of chemistry for more sophisticated reaction control in localized crystallization processes and in the field of medicine for enhanced treatment of calcium phosphate containing biomaterials.

Functionalization of and through Melanin: Strategies and Bio-Applications.

A unique feature of nanoparticles for bio-application is the ease of achieving multi-functionality through covalent and non-covalent functionalization. In this way, multiple therapeutic actions, including chemical, photothermal and photodynamic activity, can be combined with different bio-imaging modalities, such as magnetic resonance, photoacoustic, and fluorescence imaging, in a theragnostic approach. In this context, melanin-related nanomaterials possess unique features since they are intrinsically biocompatible and, due to their optical and electronic properties, are themselves very efficient photothermal agents, efficient antioxidants, and photoacoustic contrast agents. Moreover, these materials present a unique versatility of functionalization, which makes them ideal for the design of multifunctional platforms for nanomedicine integrating new functions such as drug delivery and controlled release, gene therapy, or contrast ability in magnetic resonance and fluorescence imaging. In this review, the most relevant and recent examples of melanin-based multi-functionalized nanosystems are discussed, highlighting the different methods of functionalization and, in particular, distinguishing pre-functionalization and post-functionalization. In the meantime, the properties of melanin coatings employable for the functionalization of a variety of material substrates are also briefly introduced, especially in order to explain the origin of the versatility of melanin functionalization. In the final part, the most relevant critical issues related to melanin functionalization that may arise during the design of multifunctional melanin-like nanoplatforms for nanomedicine and bio-application are listed and discussed.

pH Switchable Water Dispersed Photocatalytic Nanoparticles.

Photogeneration of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) finds applications in fields as different as nanomedicine, art preservation, air and water depollution and surface decontamination. Here we present photocatalytic nanoparticles (NP) that are active only at acidic pH while they do not show relevant ROS photo-generation at neutral pH. This dual responsivity (to light and pH) is achieved by stabilizing the surface of TiO2 NP with a specific organic shell during the synthesis and it is peculiar of the achieved core shell-structure, as demonstrated by comparison with commercial photocatalytic TiO2 NP. For the investigation of the photocatalytic activity, we developed two methods that allow real time detection of the process preventing any kind of artifact arising from post-treatments and delayed analysis. The reversibility of the pH response was also demonstrated as well as the selective photo-killing of cancer cells at acidic pH.

The Photophysics and Photochemistry of Melanin- Like Nanomaterials Depend on Morphology and Structure.

Melanin-like nanomaterials have found application in a large variety of high economic and social impact fields as medicine, energy conversion and storage, photothermal catalysis and environmental remediation. These materials have been used mostly for their optical and electronic properties, but also for their high biocompatibility and simplicity and versatility of preparation. Beside this, their chemistry is complex and it yields structures with different molecular weight and composition ranging from oligomers, to polymers as well as nanoparticles (NP). The comprehension of the correlation of the different compositions and morphologies to the optical properties of melanin is still incomplete and challenging, even if it is fundamental also from a technological point of view. In this minireview we focus on scientific papers, mostly recent ones, that indeed examine the link between composition and structural feature and photophysical and photochemical properties proposing this approach as a general one for future research.

Local Light-Controlled Generation of Calcium Carbonate and Barium Carbonate Biomorphs via Photochemical Stimulation.

Photochemical activation is proposed as a general method for controlling the crystallization of sparingly soluble carbonates in space and time. The photogeneration of carbonate in an alkaline environment is achieved upon photo-decarboxylation of an organic precursor by using a conventional 365 nm UV LED. Local irradiation was conducted focusing the LED light on a 300 µm radius spot on a closed glass crystallization cell. The precursor solution was optimized to avoid the precipitation of the photoreaction organic byproducts and prevent photo-induced pH changes to achieve the formation of calcium carbonate only in the corresponding irradiated area. The crystallization was monitored in real-time by time-lapse imaging. The method is also shown to work in gels. Similarly, it was also shown to photo-activate locally the formation of barium carbonate biomorphs. In the last case, the morphology of these biomimetic structures was tuned by changing the irradiation intensity.

Polydopamine Nanosystems in Drug Delivery: Effect of Size, Morphology, and Surface Charge.

Recently, drug delivery strategies based on nanomaterials have attracted a lot of interest in different kinds of therapies because of their superior properties. Polydopamine (PDA), one of the most interesting materials in nanomedicine because of its versatility and biocompatibility, has been widely investigated in the drug delivery field. It can be easily functionalized to favor processes like cellular uptake and blood circulation, and it can also induce drug release through two kinds of stimuli: NIR light irradiation and pH. In this review, we describe PDA nanomaterials' performance on drug delivery, based on their size, morphology, and surface charge. Indeed, these characteristics strongly influence the main mechanisms involved in a drug delivery system: blood circulation, cellular uptake, drug loading, and drug release. The understanding of the connections between PDA nanosystems' properties and these phenomena is pivotal to obtain a controlled design of new nanocarriers based on the specific drug delivery applications.

The Role of WO3 Nanoparticles on the Properties of Gelatin Films.

Gelatin films are very versatile materials whose properties can be tuned through functionalization with different systems. This work investigates the influence of WO3 nanoparticles on the swelling, barrier, mechanical, and photochromic properties of gelatin films. To this purpose, polyvinylpirrolidone (PVP)-stabilized WO3 nanoparticles were loaded on gelatin films at two different pH values, namely, 4 and 7. The values of swelling and solubility of functionalized films displayed a reduction of around 50% in comparison to those of pristine, unloaded films. In agreement, WO3 nanoparticles provoked a significant decrease in water vapor permeability, whereas the decrease in the values of elastic modulus (from about 2.0 to 0.7 MPa) and stress at break (from about 2.5 to 1.4 MPa) can be ascribed to the discontinuity created by the nanoparticles inside the films. The results of differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray diffraction analysis suggest that interaction of PVP with gelatin reduce gelatin renaturation. No significant differences were found between the samples prepared at pH 4 and 7, whereas crosslinking with glutaraldehyde greatly influenced the properties of gelatin films. Moreover, the incorporation of WO3 nanoparticles in gelatin films, especially in the absence of glutaraldehyde, conferred excellent photochromic properties, inducing the appearance of an intense blue color after a few seconds of light irradiation and providing good resistance to several irradiation cycles.

Sub-50 fs Formation of Charge Transfer States Rules the Fate of Photoexcitations in Eumelanin-Like Materials.

Eumelanins play a crucial role as photoprotective agents for living organisms, yet the nature of the stationary and transient species involved in the light absorption and deactivation processes remains controversial. Moreover, the critical sub-100 fs time scale, which is key to the characterization of the primary excited species, has remained unexplored. Here, we study the eumelanin analogue polydopamine (PDA) and employ a combination of steady-state and transient optical spectroscopies to reveal the presence of spectrally broad coupled electronic transitions with, at least partial, charge-transfer (CT) character. We monitor the CT state dynamics using tunable sub-20 fs pulses. We find that high photon energy excitation results in accelerated (sub-20 fs) CT formation times while activating pathways, which lead to long-lived (≫1 ns), possibly reactive CT species. On the other hand, visible light excitation results in a slower (≈45 fs) formation of bound CT states, which, however, recombine on the ultrafast sub-2 ps time scale.

Effect of Size, Shape and Surface Functionalization on the Antibacterial Activity of Silver Nanoparticles.

Silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) are the most investigated antibacterial agents against multidrug resistant (MDR) pathogens. They can lead to cellular death by means of different mechanisms, damaging several cell compartments, from the external membrane, to enzymes, DNA and proteins; this simultaneous attack amplifies the toxic effect on bacteria with respect to traditional antibiotics. The effectiveness of AgNPs against MDR bacteria is strongly correlated with their chemical and morphological properties, which influence the pathways involved in cellular damage. In this review, AgNPs' size, shape and modification by functional groups or other materials are reported, both to investigate the different synthetic pathways correlated with nanoparticles' modifications and to evaluate the related effect on their antibacterial activity. Indeed, understanding the synthetic conditions for obtaining performing antibacterial AgNPs could help to tailor new and improved silver-based agents to combat multidrug resistance.

Polydopamine-Based Nanoprobes Application in Optical Biosensing.

Polydopamine (PDA), the synthetic counterpart of melanin, is a widely investigated bio-inspired material for its chemical and photophysical properties, and in the last few years, bio-application of PDA and PDA-based materials have had a dramatic increase. In this review, we described PDA application in optical biosensing, exploring its multiple roles as a nanomaterial. In optical sensing, PDA can not only be used for its intrinsic fluorescent and photoacoustic properties as a probe: in some cases, a sample optical signal can be derived by melanin generation in situ or it can be enhanced in another material thanks to PDA modification. The various possibilities of PDA use coupled with its biocompatibility will indeed widen even more its application in optical bioimaging.

Recent Applications of Melanin-like Nanoparticles as Antioxidant Agents.

Nanosized antioxidants are highly advantageous in terms of versatility and pharmacokinetics, with respect to conventional molecular ones. Melanin-like materials, artificial species inspired by natural melanin, combine recognized antioxidant (AOX) activity with a unique versatility of preparation and modification. Due to this versatility and documented biocompatibility, artificial melanin has been incorporated into a variety of nanoparticles (NP) in order to give new platforms for nanomedicine with enhanced AOX activity. In this review article, we first discuss the chemical mechanisms behind the AOX activity of materials in the context of the inhibition of the radical chain reaction responsible for the peroxidation of biomolecules. We also focus briefly on the AOX properties of melanin-like NP, considering the effect of parameters such as size, preparation methods and surface functionalization on them. Then, we consider the most recent and relevant applications of AOX melanin-like NPs that are able to counteract ferroptosis and be involved in the treatment of important diseases that affect, e.g., the cardiovascular and nervous systems, as well as the kidneys, liver and articulations. A specific section will be dedicated to cancer treatment, since the role of melanin in this context is still very debated. Finally, we propose future strategies in AOX development for a better chemical understanding of melanin-like materials. In particular, the composition and structure of these materials are still debated, and they present a high level of variability. Thus, a better understanding of the mechanism behind the interaction of melanin-like nanostructures with different radicals and highly reactive species would be highly advantageous for the design of more effective and specific AOX nano-agents.

Luminescent Gold Nanoclusters for Bioimaging: Increasing the Ligand Complexity.

Fluorescence, and more in general, photoluminescence (PL), presents important advantages for imaging with respect to other diagnostic techniques. In particular, detection methodologies exploiting fluorescence imaging are fast and versatile; make use of low-cost and simple instrumentations; and are taking advantage of newly developed powerful, low-cost, light-based electronic devices, such as light sources and cameras, used in huge market applications, such as civil illumination, computers, and cellular phones. Besides the aforementioned simplicity, fluorescence imaging offers a spatial and temporal resolution that can hardly be achieved with alternative methods. However, the two main limitations of fluorescence imaging for bio-application are still (i) the biological tissue transparency and autofluorescence and (ii) the biocompatibility of the contrast agents. Luminescent gold nanoclusters (AuNCs), if properly designed, combine high biocompatibility with PL in the near-infrared region (NIR), where the biological tissues exhibit higher transparency and negligible autofluorescence. However, the stabilization of these AuNCs requires the use of specific ligands that also affect their PL properties. The nature of the ligand plays a fundamental role in the development and sequential application of PL AuNCs as probes for bioimaging. Considering the importance of this, in this review, the most relevant and recent papers on AuNCs-based bioimaging are presented and discussed highlighting the different functionalities achieved by increasing the complexity of the ligand structure.

Fluorescent Carbon Dots from Food Industry By-Products for Cell Imaging.

Herein, following a circular economy approach, we present the synthesis of luminescent carbon dots via the thermal treatment of chestnut and peanut shells, which are abundant carbon-rich food industry by-products. As-synthesized carbon dots have excellent water dispersibility thanks to their negative surface groups, good luminescence, and photo-stability. The excitation-emission behaviour as well as the surface functionalization of these carbon dots can be tuned by changing the carbon source (chestnuts or peanuts) and the dispersing medium (water or ammonium hydroxide solution). Preliminary in vitro biological data proved that the samples are not cytotoxic to fibroblasts and can act as luminescent probes for cellular imaging. In addition, these carbon dots have a pH-dependent luminescence and may, therefore, serve as cellular pH sensors. This work paves the way towards the development of more sustainable carbon dot production for biomedical applications.

The dual nature of biomimetic melanin.

Melanin-inspired nanomaterials offer unique photophysical, electronic and radical scavenging properties that are widely explored for health and environmental preservation, or energy conversion and storage. The incorporation of functional melanin building blocks in more complex nanostructures or surfaces is typically achieved via a bottom-up approach starting from a molecular precursor, in most cases dopamine. Here we demonstrate that indeed, the oxidative polymerization of dopamine, for the synthesis of melanin-like polydopamine (PDA), leads to the simultaneous formation of more than one nanosized species with different compositions, morphologies and properties. In particular, a low-density polymeric structure and dense nanoparticles (NP) are simultaneously formed. The two populations could be separated and analyzed in real time using a chromatographic technique free of any stationary phase (flow field fractionation, FFF). The results following the synthesis of melanin-like PDA showed that the NP are formed only during the first 6 hours as a result of a supramolecular self-assembly-driven polymerization, while the formation of the polymer continues for about 36 hours. The two populations were also separated and characterized using TEM, UV-vis absorption spectroscopy, fluorescence and light scattering spectroscopy, DLS, FTIR, ζ-potential measurements, gel electrophoresis and pH titrations. Interestingly, very different properties between the two populations were observed: in particular the polymer contains a higher number of catechol units (8 mmol g-1 -OH) with respect to the NP (1 mmol g-1 -OH) and presents a much higher antioxidant activity. The attenuation of light by NP is more efficient than that by the polymer especially in the Vis-NIR region. Moreover, while the NP scatter light with an efficiency up to 27% they are not fluorescent, and the polymer does not scatter light but shows an excitation wavelength-dependent fluorescence typical of multi-fluorophoric uncoupled systems.

Reversible Supramolecular Noncovalent Self-Assembly Determines the Optical Properties and the Formation of Melanin-like Nanoparticles.

The role of noncovalent supramolecular self-assembly in the formation of melanin-like NP, as well as the nature of the electronic transition at the basis of their unique optical properties, is strongly debated. Here we demonstrate that, during the first stage of formation of synthetic melanin, polydopamine (PDA), a small fraction of the molecular precursor dopamine (DA) is oxidized to quinone (Q) and a simple supramolecular charge-transfer (CT) adduct is formed thanks to the electron donor and electron acceptor properties of DA and Q, respectively. This adduct, also detectable by HPLC-MS, presents the broad absorption band in the red-NIR region typical of melanin-like materials. Importantly, its disaggregation upon dilution can be easily detected since it leads to the disappearance of the CT band, indicating the reversibility of the process. Moreover, the stability constant K of the CT adduct could be obtained using a simple association model.

Extending photocatalysis to the visible and NIR: the molecular strategy.

Photocatalysis exploits light to perform important processes as solar fuel production by water splitting, and CO2 reduction or water and air decontamination. Therefore, photocatalysis contributes to the satisfaction of the increasing needs for clean energy, environmental remediation and, most recently, sanification. Most of the efficient semiconductor nanoparticles (NP), developed as photocatalysts, work in the ultraviolet (UV) spectral region and they are not able to exploit either visible (Vis) or near infrared (NIR) radiation. This limitation makes them unable to fully exploit the broad band solar radiaton or to be applied in indoor conditions. Recently, different approaches have been developed to extend the spectral activity of semiconductor NP, like for example band-gap engineering, integration with upconversion NP and plasmonic enhancement involving also hot-electron injection. Nevertheless, the use of organic molecules and metal complexes, for enhancing the photoactivity in the Vis and NIR, was one of the first strategies proposed for sensitization and it is still one of the most efficient. In this minireview we highlight and critically discuss the most recent and relevant achievements in the field of photocatalysis obtained by exploiting dye sensitization either via dynamic or static quenching.

Visible-Light Photoredox Catalyzed Dehydrogenative Synthesis of Allylic Carboxylates from Styrenes.

The visible-light photoredox/[Co(III)] cocatalyzed dehydrogenative functionalization of cyclic and acyclic styryl derivatives with carboxylic acids is documented. The methodology enables the chemo- and regioselective allylic functionalization of styryl compounds, leading to allylic carboxylates (32 examples) under stoichiometric acceptorless conditions. Intermolecular as well as intramolecular variants are documented in high yields (up to 82%). A mechanistic rationale is also proposed on the basis of a combined experimental and spectroscopic investigation.

Bio-Applications of Multifunctional Melanin Nanoparticles: From Nanomedicine to Nanocosmetics.

Bioinspired nanomaterials are ideal components for nanomedicine, by virtue of their expected biocompatibility or even complete lack of toxicity. Natural and artificial melanin-based nanoparticles (MNP), including polydopamine nanoparticles (PDA NP), excel for their extraordinary combination of additional optical, electronic, chemical, photophysical, and photochemical properties. Thanks to these features, melanin plays an important multifunctional role in the design of new platforms for nanomedicine where this material works not only as a mechanical support or scaffold, but as an active component for imaging, even multimodal, and simple or synergistic therapy. The number of examples of bio-applications of MNP increased dramatically in the last decade. Here, we review the most recent ones, focusing on the multiplicity of functions that melanin performs in theranostics platforms with increasing complexity. For the sake of clarity, we start analyzing briefly the main properties of melanin and its derivative as well as main natural sources and synthetic methods, moving to imaging application from mono-modal (fluorescence, photoacoustic, and magnetic resonance) to multi-modal, and then to mono-therapy (drug delivery, anti-oxidant, photothermal, and photodynamic), and finally to theranostics and synergistic therapies, including gene- and immuno- in combination to photothermal and photodynamic. Nanomedicine aims not only at the treatment of diseases, but also to their prevention, and melanin in nature performs a protective action, in the form of nanopigment, against UV-Vis radiations and oxidants. With these functions being at the border between nanomedicine and cosmetics nanotechnology, recently examples of applications of artificial MNP in cosmetics are increasing, paving the road to the birth of the new science of nanocosmetics. In the last part of this review, we summarize and discuss these important recent results that establish evidence of the interconnection between nanomedicine and cosmetics nanotechnology.