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1.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 43(3): 359-371, 2021 Jun.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33728658

RESUMO

OBJECTIVE: The resistance of sunscreens to the loss of ultraviolet (UV) protection upon perspiration is important for their practical efficacy. However, this topic is largely overlooked in evaluations of sunscreen substantivity due to the relatively few well-established protocols compared to those for water resistance and mechanical wear. METHODS: In an attempt to achieve a better fundamental understanding of sunscreen behaviour in response to sweat exposure, we have developed a perspiring skin simulator, containing a substrate surface that mimics sweating human skin. Using this perspiring skin simulator, we evaluated sunscreen performance upon perspiration by in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) measurements, optical microscopy, ultraviolet (UV) reflectance imaging and coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS) microscopy. RESULTS AND CONCLUSION: Results indicated that perspiration reduced sunscreen efficiency through two mechanisms, namely sunscreen wash-off (impairing the film thickness) and sunscreen redistribution (impairing the film uniformity). Further, we investigated how the sweat rate affected these mechanisms and how sunscreen application dose influenced UV protection upon perspiration. As expected, higher sweat rates led to a large loss of UV protection, while a larger application dose led to larger amounts of sunscreen being washed-off and redistributed but also provided higher UV protection before and after sweating.


OBJECTIF: La résistance des écrans solaires à la perte de protection contre les ultraviolets (UV) à cause de la transpiration est importante quant à leur efficacité pratique. Cependant, ce point est généralement négligé dans les évaluations de la substantivité des écrans solaires en raison du nombre relativement faible de protocoles bien établis, en comparaison avec ceux pour la résistance à l'eau et l'usure mécanique. MÉTHODES: Dans le but de parvenir à une meilleure compréhension fondamentale du comportement des écrans solaires en cas d'exposition à la sueur, nous avons développé un simulateur de peau transpirante, dont la surface de substrat imite la transpiration de la peau humaine. À l'aide de ce simulateur, nous avons évalué les performances des écrans solaires lors de la transpiration par des mesures in vitro du facteur de protection solaire (FPS), par microscopie optique, par imagerie de la réflectance ultraviolette (UV) et par microscopie cohérente de diffusion Raman anti-Stokes (coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering, CARS). RÉSULTATS ET CONCLUSION: Les résultats ont montré que la transpiration réduisait l'efficacité de l'écran solaire en raison de deux mécanismes, à savoir le lavage de l'écran solaire (altération de l'épaisseur du film) et la redistribution de l'écran solaire (altération de l'uniformité du film). De plus, nous avons étudié comment le taux de transpiration affectait ces mécanismes et comment la dose d'application d'écran solaire influençait la protection UV en cas de transpiration. Comme l'on pouvait s'y attendre, des taux de sueur plus élevés ont entraîné une perte importante de protection contre les UV, tandis qu'une dose d'application plus importante a conduit à des quantités plus importantes d'écran solaire lavé et redistribué, mais a également fourni une protection contre les UV plus élevée avant et après la transpiration.


Assuntos
Modelos Biológicos , Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Pele/metabolismo , Protetores Solares/farmacologia , Suor/efeitos dos fármacos , Humanos , Técnicas In Vitro , Fator de Proteção Solar
2.
Langmuir ; 36(9): 2339-2348, 2020 Mar 10.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32069409

RESUMO

A weak polyelectrolyte brush is composed of a layer of polyacids or polybases grafted by one end of their chains to a substrate surface. For such brush layers immersed in an aqueous solution, the dissociation behavior of the acidic or basic groups and the structural and physical properties of the brush layer will thus be strongly dependent on the environmental conditions. For a polyacid brush layer consisting of, e.g., poly(acrylic acid), this means that the chains in the brush layer will be charged at high pH and uncharged at low pH. However, theoretical scaling laws not only foresee the structural changes occurring in response to the pH-induced dissociation behavior but also how the dissociation behavior of the brush layer depends on the ionic strength of the aqueous solution and the density of acidic groups within the brush layer. We have herein employed spectroscopic ellipsometry and a quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation monitoring (QCM-D) to experimentally evaluate the theoretically predicted dissociation and structural behavior of PAA brushes. Spectroscopic ellipsometry allows us to study the brush thickness as a function of pH and ionic strength, while QCM-D gives us an opportunity to investigate the swelling behavior of PAA brushes at various penetration depths of propagating acoustic waves. Our studies show that the dissociation degree of the carboxylic acid groups in a PAA brush increases with increasing distance from the substrate. Moreover, the ionic strength enhances carboxylic acid dissociation, such that a higher ionic strength leads to a narrower distribution and higher average dissociation degree. In conclusion, our results provide an experimental verification of the theoretically predicted gradient in the degree of dissociation of the acid groups in weak polyacid brush layers and shows that at a pH value equal to approximately the average pKa value of the brush, the state of the acid groups varies from being almost uncharged to almost fully dissociated depending on the ionic strength and vertical position in the brush.

3.
Nat Commun ; 13(1): 367, 2022 Jan 18.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35042893

RESUMO

Tomographic volumetric printing (TVP) physically reverses tomography to offer fast and auxiliary-free 3D printing. Here we show that wavelength-sensitive photoresins can be cured using visible ([Formula: see text] nm) and UV ([Formula: see text] nm) sources simultaneously in a TVP setup to generate internal mechanical property gradients with high precision. We develop solutions of mixed acrylate and epoxy monomers and utilize the orthogonal chemistry between free radical and cationic polymerization to realize fully 3D stiffness control. The radial resolution of stiffness control is 300 µm or better and an average modulus gradient of 5 MPa/µm is achieved. We further show that the reactive transport of radical inhibitors defines a workpiece's shape and limits the achievable stiffness contrast to a range from 127 MPa to 201 MPa according to standard tensile tests after post-processing. Our result presents a strategy for controlling the stiffness of material spatially in light-based volumetric additive manufacturing.

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