QbD Approach in Cosmetic Cleansers Research: The Development of a Moisturizing Cleansing Foam Focusing on Thickener, Surfactants, and Polyols Content.

Cleansing products, particularly innovative cosmetic foams, must efficiently remove impurities with minimal impact on the skin barrier and have a favorable sensory profile. The choice of product ingredients is crucial to ensure the optimal characteristics. The current study aims to provide a comprehensive framework for understanding the variability in the characteristics of a cleansing foam to achieve desired properties. The novelty of this study lies in the combination of ingredients for their potential synergistic and complementary effects in cleansing dry skin, as well as the application of Quality by Design (QbD) elements to develop and optimize the formulation of cleansing foam. The effects of varying the concentration of mild surfactants, polyols, and gel-forming agents on the properties of the gels and of the generated foams were studied. Significant influences of the formulation factors were observed: an increased ratio of xanthan gum positively impacted the texture properties of the gel, whereas higher concentrations of surfactants had a negative impact on these parameters. Additionally, increasing the polyols ratio was found to negatively influence the foaming property and stability of the foam. The study established an optimal formulation of a cleansing foam with a ratio of 0.45% xanthan gum, 26.19% surfactants and 2.16% polyols to be used for dry skin hygiene.

Chemical Profile and Biological Effects of an Herbal Mixture for the Development of an Oil-in-Water Cream.

Three individual hydroalcoholic extracts derived from Hamamelis virginiana leaves, Krameria lappacea root, Salix alba bark, and the resulting herbal mixture (HM) were assessed for the phytochemical profile as well as for antibacterial and cytotoxic potential. The chemical composition of the individual extracts and of their mixture was analyzed by chromatographical (LC-MS) and spectrophotometrical methods. The antimicrobial properties were evaluated by using the agar-well diffusion and the broth microdilution assays, whereas the potential cytotoxicity was investigated on human keratinocyte cell line by MTT method and apoptosis test. The HM composition revealed important amounts of valuable polyphenolic compounds provided from the individual extracts, having synergistic biological effects. All tested extracts displayed in vitro antimicrobial properties, with a significantly higher efficacy noticed for the HM when tested against Staphylococcus aureus. Moreover, none of the tested extracts was responsible for in vitro cytotoxicity against the human keratinocytes in the selected concentration range. Furthermore, the HM was included in an oil-in-water cream for the nonpharmacological treatment of seborrheic dermatitis, developed and optimized by using a QbD approach. A D-optimal experimental plan with four factors that varied on two levels was used to investigate the effect of the quantitative variation of the formulation factors (emulsifier, co-emulsifier, thickening agent, oily phase ratio) on the characteristics of the cream in terms of firmness, consistency, adhesiveness, stringiness, spreadability, and viscosity. Based on the experimental results, an optimal formulation containing 2.5% emulsifier and 20% oily phase was prepared and analyzed. The obtained results showed appropriate quality characteristics of this novel cream, which may be used in the future to manage the associated symptoms of seborrheic dermatitis.

Vesicular Nanocarriers for Phytocompounds in Wound Care: Preparation and Characterization.

The need to develop wound healing preparations is a pressing challenge given the limitations of the current treatment and the rising prevalence of impaired healing wounds. Although herbal extracts have been used for many years to treat skin disorders, due to their wound healing, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant effects, their efficacy can be questionable because of their poor bioavailability and stability issues. Nanotechnology offers an opportunity to revolutionize wound healing therapies by including herbal compounds in nanosystems. Particularly, vesicular nanosystems exhibit beneficial properties, such as biocompatibility, targeted and sustained delivery capacity, and increased phytocompounds' bioavailability and protection, conferring them a great potential for future applications in wound care. This review summarizes the beneficial effects of phytocompounds in wound healing and emphasizes the advantages of their entrapment in vesicular nanosystems. Different types of lipid nanocarriers are presented (liposomes, niosomes, transferosomes, ethosomes, cubosomes, and their derivates' systems), highlighting their applications as carriers for phytocompounds in wound care, with the presentation of the state-of-art in this field. The methods of preparation, characterization, and evaluation are also described, underlining the properties that ensure good in vitro and in vivo performance. Finally, future directions of topical systems in which vesicle-bearing herbal extracts or phytocompounds can be incorporated are pointed out, as their development is emerging as a promising strategy.