Comparison of wave overtopping estimation models for urban beaches. Towards an early warning system on the Basque coast.

ABSTRACT

This study compares the performance of different wave overtopping estimation models at urban beaches. The models selected for comparison are the Mase et al. (2013) and EurOtop parametric models and the XBeach process-based model in surfbeat and non-hydrostatic mode. Seven energetic storms are selected between 2015 and 2022 with offshore significant wave height ranging between 3 m and 8 m and peak period between 12 s and 20 s to perform the model comparison. The information required to run and validate the models (beach slope, shoreface shape, absence/presence of overtopping) was collected for each storm from coastal videometry. To account for the uncertainties derived from the incident waves randomness and the bathymetry shape when using the process-based model, a series of simulations with random seed boundary conditions were run over two different realistic profile shapes for each storm. The present study is a pilot study on the beach of Zarautz; however, it can be extended to other beaches of the Basque coast. Results indicate that while Mase et al. (2013) and EurOtop tend to reasonably predict the absence or presence of overtopping events, they tend to underestimate the hazard level at the beach of Zarautz. Additionally, the beach underwater profile shape can affect the process-based model performance at intermediate intensity storms and to a lesser extend during moderate storms. Finally, the hazard level at the beach of Zarautz varies significantly alongshore due to the configuration of the seawall, highlighting the need for local adaptation measures. Considering that there is no model that systematically performs better than others, it might be reasonable to use model assemble techniques to draw conclusions from a probabilistic perspective.