Evaluation of the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of Prosopis juliflora fruit extract as a novel multifunctional bioactive ingredient and its potential applicability in pro-ageing and skin colour harmonization cosmetic products.

OBJECTIVE: Prosopis juliflora, commonly known as algaroba or mesquite, was introduced and has since proliferated throughout the semi-arid region of the Caatinga biome. Various studies have documented its properties, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antitumor activities, attributed to the presence of diverse secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, terpenoids, tannins, and flavonoids. The objective of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of P. juliflora fruit extract as a multifunctional active ingredient, and to develop cosmetic formulations containing this vegetal extract for potential applications in skincare products targeting pro-ageing and skin colour homogenization properties. METHODS: The extraction process followed established protocols. Chemical characterization of the extract involved quantification of total flavonoids and phenolic compounds, along with Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis. In vitro antioxidant activity was assessed using different methods. Antityrosinase activity was determined by employing enzymatic assays. Cosmetic formulations containing Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyl Glycerin, Distilled Water, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer Lecithin, Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7, and 3.0% of the investigated plant extract were subjected to preliminary and accelerated stability tests. RESULTS: The extract demonstrated a concentration of total flavonoids (1.71 ± 0.26 µg EQ/mg) and exhibited concentrations of phenolic compounds at 0.21 ± 0.01 mg EAG/g. Metabolites such as flavonoids and saponins were annotated, as well as some of their respective glycosidic derivatives. The extract showed antioxidant potential and the ability to inhibit the oxidation cascade in both the initiation and propagation phases. Moreover, the extract exhibited noteworthy inhibition of antityrosinase activity, presenting 62.48 ± 2.09 at a concentration of 30.00 mg/mL. The formulations were stable in accelerated stability tests over a 60-day period. CONCLUSION: This research not only demonstrates scientifically by demonstrating the potential of a plant from the Caatinga biome with antioxidant and antityrosinase properties in the development of cosmetic products aimed at pro-ageing effects and skin colour harmonization, but also adds value to the P. juliflora production chain. This valorization encompasses various aspects which include environmental, social, and biodiversity responsibilities.

OBJECTIF: Prosopis juliflora, communément appelée algaroba ou mesquite, a été introduite et s'est depuis proliférée dans la région semi­aride du biome de la Caatinga. Diverses études ont documenté ses propriétés, y compris des activités antimicrobiennes, antioxydantes et antitumorales, attribuées à la présence de divers métabolites secondaires tels que les alcaloïdes, les terpénoïdes, les tanins et les flavonoïdes. L'objectif de cette étude était d'évaluer les activités antioxydantes et antityrosinases de l'extrait de fruit de P. juliflora en tant qu'ingrédient actif multifonctionnel, et de développer des formulations cosmétiques contenant cet extrait végétal pour des applications potentielles dans des produits de soins de la peau ciblant les propriétés anti­âge et d'homogénéisation de la couleur de la peau. MÉTHODES: Le processus d'extraction a suivi des protocoles établis. La caractérisation chimique de l'extrait a impliqué la quantification des flavonoïdes totaux et des composés phénoliques, ainsi qu'une analyse par chromatographie liquide­spectrométrie de masse. L'activité antioxydante in vitro a été évaluée en utilisant différentes méthodes. L'activité antityrosinase a été déterminée en utilisant des essais enzymatiques. Les formulations cosmétiques contenant du Disodium EDTA, du Phenoxyethanol (et) Ethylhexyl Glycerin, de l'Eau Distillée, du Copolymère de Sodium Acrylates Lecithin, du Polyacrylamide (et) C13­14 Isoparaffin (et) Laureth­7, et 3.0 % de l'extrait végétal investigué ont été soumises à des tests de stabilité préliminaires et accélérés. RÉSULTATS: L'extrait a montré une concentration totale de flavonoïdes (1.71 ± 0.26 µg EQ/mg) et des concentrations de composés phénoliques à 0.21 ± 0.01 mg EAG/g. Des métabolites tels que les flavonoïdes et les saponines ont été annotés, ainsi que certains de leurs dérivés glycosidiques respectifs. L'extrait a montré un potentiel antioxydant et la capacité d'inhiber la cascade d'oxydation tant dans les phases d'initiation que de propagation. De plus, l'extrait a présenté une inhibition notable de l'activité antityrosinase, avec un résultat de 62.48 ± 2.09 à une concentration de 30.00 mg/mL. Les formulations ont été stables lors des tests de stabilité accélérés sur une période de 60 jours. CONCLUSION: Cette recherche démontre scientifiquement le potentiel d'une plante du biome de la Caatinga avec des propriétés antioxydantes et antityrosinases dans le développement de produits cosmétiques visant les effets anti­âge et l'harmonisation de la couleur de la peau, tout en ajoutant de la valeur à la chaîne de production de P. juliflora. Cette valorisation englobe divers aspects incluant des responsabilités environnementales, sociales et liées à la biodiversité.

Vegetable moisturizing raw material from "Caatinga" Brazilian biome: safety and efficacy evaluations of O/W cosmetic emulsions containing Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the safety of Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract, followed by the development of an oil in water emulsion containing the K. brasiliensis leaves extract and evaluating its clinical moisturizing efficacy. The formulations containing sodium acrylates/ Beheneth-25 methacrylate Crosspolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) lauryl glucoside and 0.5% of extract were prepared. The extract was considered as non-irritating through skin irritant tests. The stability testing was carried out in different conditions for 90 days. The skin hydration was measured by capacitance measurement and transepidermal water loss using biophysical techniques. The results indicate that the formulation containing 0.5% of extract increased the hydration of the stratum corneum up to 5 h after application on the forearm. The transepidermal water loss was reduced when compared to the untreated area and placebo area. Therefore, we can conclude that the increased skin hydration and protection of barrier function can be attributed to the K. brasiliensis extract. This research presents a new raw material from the Brazilian Caatinga biome and shows its possible application in the development of cosmetic products.

Use of Opuntia ficus-indica (L. ) Mill extracts from Brazilian Caatinga as an alternative of natural moisturizer in cosmetic formulations

ABSTRACT The aim of this work was the obtainment of Opuntia fícus-indica (L.) Mill extract for the development of cosmetic formulations and in vivo evaluation of its moisturizing effects. The formulations were tested for preliminary and accelerated stability. Organoleptic characteristics, pH values and rheological behavior were assessed. The evaluation of moisturizing efficacy of the emulsions formulated with 3.0% of Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 containing 1.0 and 3.0% of O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract (EHG001) was performed using the capacitance method (Corneometer(r)) and the transepidermal water loss - TEWL evaluation (Tewameter(r)). The emulsions formulated were stable, exhibiting pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior. The results of evaluation of moisturizing efficacy showed increased skin hydration after five hours by mainly increasing the skin barrier effect. The formulations containing 1.0 and 3.0% of EHG001 enhanced the skin barrier effect by reducing TEWL up to four hours after application. The results observed suggest that O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract may act through a humectant and occlusion mechanism.

Moisturizing effect of a cosmetic formulation containing pequi oil (Caryocar brasiliense) from the Brazilian cerrado biome

Caryocar brasiliense, popularly known in Brazil as “pequi”, is a species widely distributed in the Brazilian Cerrado. The seeds are surrounded by a woody endocarp coated with a yellow fleshy mesocarp rich in oil and vitamin A, whose oil has a useful role in the treatment of skin aging and protection of human skin against UV-induced damage and skin hydration. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of cosmetic formulations containing pequi oil (Caryocar brasiliense) on skin hydration, after a single application. Hydration effect assessment was performed by applying the formulations under study (Control – no formulation, vehicle, and vehicle + pequi oil) onto forearm skin of 30 human volunteers. Skin capacitance and Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) measurements were analyzed before, and at 1, 2 and 3 hours after, a single application. Evaluation results of a single application of the vehicle containing pequi oil showed an increase in stratum corneum water content, indicating a skin moisturizing effect. Results of the evaluation of immediate effects of TEWL demonstrated that the vehicle containing pequi oil significantly increased skin moisture during the 3 h evaluation period. The formulations containing pequi oil showed clinical efficacy, increasing stratum corneum water content and enhancing skin barrier function.

Caryocar brasiliense, popularmente conhecido como “Pequi”, é uma espécie amplamente distribuída no Cerrado Brasileiro. O fruto é composto por sementes com endocarpo rígido e lenhoso, recoberto pelo mesocarpo carnoso, amarelado, rico em óleos e vitamina A, útil na proteção da pele contra raios UV, no tratamento das marcas senis da pele, bem como na hidratação cutânea. O objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar o efeito cosmético de formulações contendo óleo de pequi (Caryocar brasiliense) na hidratação cutânea, após uma única aplicação. Este efeito foi avaliado instrumentalmente através de medidas da capacitância da pele e pela perda de água transepidérmica após 1, 2 e 3 horas de uma única aplicação das formulações em estudo (controle, veículo e veículo + óleo de pequi) na pele do antebraço de 30 voluntários. Por meio das avaliações, a formulação contendo óleo de pequi aumentou o conteúdo de água no estrato córneo após 1, 2 e 3 horas, além de diminuir a perda de água transepidérmica, aumentando, significativamente, a hidratação cutânea durante as 3 horas de avaliação. A formulação contendo óleo de pequi apresentou eficácia clínica, aumentando o conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo, bem como promovendo o efeito barreira na pele.

Development of O/W emulsions containing Euterpe oleracea extract and evaluation of photoprotective efficacy

Euterpe oleracea Mart. is a palm tree popularly known as açai, which is primarily found in northern Brazil. The açai's fruits contain anthocyanins, a class of polyphenols to which antioxidant properties have been attributed. The aim of this work was to develop O/W sunscreens emulsions containing açai glycolic extract (AGE) and to evaluate both their physical stability and photoprotective efficacy. Emulsions containing AGE and sunscreens were formulated using different types and concentrations of polymeric surfactant (acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and sodium polyacrylate). The influence of two rheology modifiers (polyacrylamide (and) C13-14/isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 and Carbomer) on the stability was also investigated. Physical stability was evaluated by preliminary and accelerated studies. Emulsions with 1.0% sodium polyacrylate were stable and exhibited non-newtonian pseudoplastic behavior and thixotropy. Photoprotective efficacy was evaluated by in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and determination of Protection Factor of UVA (PF-UVA). When AGE was added to the sunscreen emulsion, no significant increase in the in vivo SPF value was observed. The emulsion containing AGE showed PF-UVA = 14.97, 1.69 of the SPF/PF-UVA ratio and a critical wavelength value of 378 nm, and may therefore be considered a sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection.

Euterpe oleracea Mart. é uma palmeira popularmente conhecida como açaí, encontrada no norte do Brasil. O fruto do açaí apresenta em sua composição antocianinas, uma classe de polifenóis à qual é atribuída propriedade antioxidante. Os objetivos desse trabalho foram desenvolver emulsões fotoprotetoras O/A contendo extrato glicólico de açaí (AGE), avaliar a estabilidade física e avaliar a eficácia fotoprotetora. Emulsões contendo AGE e filtros solares foram formuladas utilizando diferentes tipos e concentrações de tensoativo polimérico (acrilates/C 10-30 alquil acrilato polímero cruzado e polilacrilato sódico). A influência de dois modificadores reológicos (poliacrilamida (e) C13-14/isoparafina (e) Laureth-7 e Carbomer) na estabilidade foi avaliada. A estabilidade física das emulsões foi avaliada por meio de estudos de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada. Emulsões com 1,0% poliacrilato sódico foram estáveis, exibiram comportamento não-newtoniano pseudoplástico e tixotrópico. A eficácia fotoprotetora foi avaliada pelo teste in vivo de Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS) e pela determinação do Fator de Proteção UVA (FP-UVA). Quando adicionado o AGE na emulsão contendo filtros solares, não se observou aumento significativo no valor do FPS. A emulsão contendo o AGE apresentou FP-UVA=14,97, a razão FPS/FP-UVA = 1,69 e o comprimento de onda crítico igual a 378 nm, podendo ser considerado um protetor solar com proteção UVA e UVB.