High molecular weight hyaluronic acid vectorised with clay provides long-term hydration and reduces skin brightness.

BACKGROUND: Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a widely used active cosmetic ingredient. Its multiple skin care benefits are modulated by its molecular weight. Low molecular weight (LMW) HA can penetrate the skin, but high molecular weight (HMW) HA remains at the surface. Here, we assessed how vectorization of HMW HA with bentonite clay-achieved with an innovative technology-enhances its cosmetic and hydrating properties. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The two HA forms were applied to skin explants; their penetration and smoothing effects were monitored by Raman spectroscopy and scanning electron microscopy. The two forms were biochemically characterised by chromatography, enzyme sensitivity assays, and analysis of Zeta potential. Cosmetics benefits such as, the smoothing effect of vectorised-HA was assessed in ex vivo experiments on skin explants. A placebo-controlled clinical study was finally conducted applying treatments for 28 days to analyse the final benefits in crow's feet area. RESULTS: Raman spectroscopy analysis revealed native HMW HA to accumulate at the surface of skin explants, whereas vectorised HMW HA was detected in deeper skin layers. This innovative vectorisation process changed the zeta potential of vectorised HMW HA, being then more anionic and negative without impacting the biochemical structure of native HA. In terms of cosmetic benefits, following application of vectorised HMW HA ex vivo, the skin's surface was visibly smoother. This smoothing was clinically confirmed, with a significant reduction in fine lines. CONCLUSION: The development of innovative process vectorising HMW HA allowed HMW HA penetration in the skin. This enhanced penetration extends the clinical benefits of this iconic cosmetic ingredient.

Analysis of Active Components and Transcriptome of Freesia refracta Callus Extract and Its Effects against Oxidative Stress and Wrinkles in Skin.

Freesia refracta (FR), a perennial flower of the Iris family (Iridaceae), is widely used in cosmetics despite limited scientific evidence of its skin benefits and chemical composition, particularly of FR callus extract (FCE). This study identified biologically active compounds in FCE and assessed their skin benefits, focusing on anti-aging. FR calli were cultured, extracted with water at 40 °C, and analyzed using Centrifugal Partition Chromatography (CPC), Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR), and HCA, revealing key compounds, namely nicotinamide and pyroglutamic acid. FCE significantly increased collagen I production by 52% in normal and aged fibroblasts and enhanced fibroblast-collagen interaction by 37%. An in vivo study of 43 female volunteers demonstrated an 11.1% reduction in skin roughness and a 2.3-fold increase in collagen density after 28 days of cream application containing 3% FCE. Additionally, the preservation tests of cosmetics containing FCE confirmed their stability over 12 weeks. These results suggest that FCE offers substantial anti-aging benefits by enhancing collagen production and fibroblast-collagen interactions. These findings highlighted the potential of FCE in cosmetic applications, providing significant improvements in skin smoothness and overall appearance. This study fills a gap in the scientific literature regarding the skin benefits and chemical composition of FR callus extract, supporting its use in the development of effective cosmeceuticals.

Evaluation of the hydrating benefits of a cationic hyaluronic acid: From biological evaluation to consumer home use trial.

Active ingredients are often assessed based on physiological measurements, but innovative technologies to measure skin sensations can provide a holistic volunteer assessment of the use of an ingredient. In this paper, the hydrating benefits of a cationic hyaluronic acid (HA) were evaluated alongside clinical biometrics and innovative cognitive measurements to determine how biological benefits correlated with volunteers' feelings and perceptions of hydration. The results demonstrated that cationic HA provides hydrating benefits at the clinical level due to its film-forming properties. Through the use of innovative behavioural measurement tools, we were able to show that these outcomes are perceived by naïve consumers in real-life conditions. In addition, the benefits of cationic HA reported by users were in accordance with the mental representation they had related to the use of HA, thus the product achieved complete sensorial embodiment. We can conclude that the combination of clinical evaluations and home use trials consolidates product assessment when seeking to measure consumer satisfaction with proven biological benefits.

Les ingrédients actifs sont souvent évalués sur la base de mesures physiologiques, mais des technologies innovantes de mesure des sensations des consommateurs peuvent fournir une évaluation holistique de l'utilisation d'un ingrédient. Dans cet article, les avantages hydratants d'un acide hyaluronique (AH) cationique ont été évalués parallèlement par des mesures biométriques cliniques et par des mesures cognitives innovantes afin de déterminer la correlation entre l'efficacité biologique et les sensations des volontaires en matière d'hydratation. Les résultats biologiques ont démontré que l'acide hyaluronique cationique offre des avantages hydratants au niveau clinique grâce à ses propriétés filmogènes. Grâce à l'utilisation d'outils de mesure comportementale innovants, nous avons également pu montrer que ces résultats sont perçus par des consommateurs naïfs dans des conditions réelles d'utilisation. De plus, les avantages de l'AH cationique rapportés par les utilisateurs étaient conformes à la représentation mentale qu'ils avaient des propriétés de l'AH, de sorte que l'expérience produit une congruence sensorielle complète. Nous pouvons conclure que la combinaison d'évaluations cliniques et d'essais en conditions réelles d'utilisation consolide l'évaluation des produits lorsque l'on cherche à mesurer la satisfaction des consommateurs.

Facial pore refining by targeting dermal and epidermal functions: Assessment across age and gender.

BACKGROUND: Conspicuous facial pores are benign but represent a cosmetic concern for men and women. Recent works described dermal and epidermal impairments as clinical causes of enlarged pores. Morphological modifications of skin at the site of pores were associated with collagen density loss, possible alteration of extracellular matrix and abnormal differentiation of keratinocytes. AIMS: A composition containing mannose-6-phosphate (Active Complex) was designed to address these different aspects of pore enlargement. In vitro and ex vivo evaluations were conducted in different models mimicking disturbance of dermal and epidermal functions. The pore refining activity of Active Complex was assessed in two clinical trials studying a Caucasian women cohort and an Asian men cohort. RESULTS: At the dermal level, Active Complex upregulated collagen I and decorin synthesis, and genes encoding collagens I, III, V, VII, XVII; suggesting its ability to favor collagen fiber organization and anchorage. The downregulation of matrix metalloprotease, involved in extracellular matrix degradation, reinforced the protective effect of Active Complex in the dermis. Active Complex down modulated differentiation markers in keratinocytes as well as genes involved in cell renewal. Study of reconstructed human epidermis modeling keratinocyte hyperproliferation revealed that Active Complex mitigated two markers of this state: number of nuclei in the stratum corneum and involucrin expression. Clinical trials confirmed the pore refining activity of Active Complex on men and women of different ages and ethnicities; -24% total skin pore area after 56 days of application on women, and -30.2% on men after 7 days. CONCLUSIONS: This work demonstrates the interest to target dermal and epidermal modifications described in conspicuous pore area, especially dermis fiber organization, to address this cosmetic concern.

A highly soluble form of rutin for instant resolution of mask-wearing related disorders.

BACKGROUND: The COVID-19 pandemic brought about a new normal, necessitating the use of personal protective equipment (PPE) like face shields, surgical masks, gloves, and goggles. However, prolonged mask-wearing introduced skin-related issues due to changes in the skin's microenvironment, including increased humidity and temperature, as well as pressure on the skin. These factors led to skin deformation, vascular issues, edema, and inflammation, resulting in discomfort and cosmetic concerns. Clinical reports quickly highlighted the consequences of long-term mask use, including increased cases of "maskne" (mask-related acne) or mask-wearing related disorders such as rosacea flare-ups, skin-barrier defects, itching, erythema, redness, hyperpigmentation, and lichenification. Some of these issues, like inflammation, oxidative stress, and poor wound healing, could be directly linked to acne-related disorders or skin hypoxia. AIM: To address these problems, researchers turned to rutin, a well-known flavonoid with antioxidant, vasoactive, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, rutin's poor water solubility presented a challenge for cosmetic formulations. To overcome this limitation, a highly water-soluble form of rutin was developed, making it suitable for use at higher concentrations. METHODS: In vitro and ex vivo tests were conducted, as well as an innovative clinical trial including volunteers wearing surgical masks for at least 2 h, to evaluate the biological activity of this soluble rutin on the main skin concerns associated with mask-wearing (inflammation, oxidative stress, skin repair, hyperpigmentation, and skin redness). RESULTS: The in vitro results showed that the active ingredient significantly reduced oxidative stress, improved wound healing, and reduced inflammation. In dark skin explants, the active ingredient significantly reduced melanin content, indicating its lightening activity. This effect was confirmed in the clinical study, where brown spots decreased significantly after 4 days of application. Moreover, measurements on volunteers demonstrated a decrease in skin redness and vascularization after the active ingredient application, indicating inflammation and erythema reduction. Volunteers reported improved skin comfort. CONCLUSION: In summary, the COVID-19 pandemic led to various skin issues associated with mask-wearing. A highly soluble form of rutin was developed, which effectively addressed these concerns by reducing inflammation, oxidative stress, and hyperpigmentation while promoting wound healing. This soluble rutin offers a promising solution for the rapid treatment of maskne-related disorders and other skin problems caused by prolonged mask use.