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1.
J Neurophysiol ; 2023 Jan 25.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36695521

RESUMO

Muscle synergies is extensively studied to understand how the neuromusculoskeletal system deals with abundancy. The synergies represent covariant muscles that acts as building blocks for movement production. Nevertheless, little is known on how those synergies evolve following training, learning and expertise. This study reports the influence a 4-weeks submaximal training of arm-cranking on novice participants' muscle synergies. METHODS: 12 participants performed 8 sessions of submaximal training for 4 weeks. One session consisted in two 30-second-maximal power tests followed by six 2-minutes-bouts at 30% of maximal recorded power. Cranking torque and EMG of 11 muscles were recorded during the entire protocol. After EMG normalization, muscle synergies were extracted using NNMF. Similarity was computed using cross-correlation and cosine similarities and statistical evolution across training was tested using repeated measured ANOVA. RESULTS: While maximal power increased across training days nor torque management, EMG or muscle synergies were significantly affected by submaximal training. Nevertheless, results suggest slights modifications of muscle synergies across day despite to non-significant differences. DISCUSSION: Despite the strong complexity of the upper limbs anatomy, our results showed that training didn't induce significant changes in movement realization (mechanical and coordination level). A low-dimensional organization of muscle synergies is selected from the first day and kept through the following training days, despite slight but non-significant modifications.This study supports the hypothesis that motor control for movement production could be simplify using low-dimensional building blocks (muscle synergies). Such building blocks allow stability in movement execution and are slightly adjusted to fit movement requirements with training.

2.
Scand J Med Sci Sports ; 33(10): 1958-1975, 2023 Oct.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37340897

RESUMO

Lateral epicondylitis, also known as tennis elbow, is a major health issue among tennis players. This musculo-skeletal disorder affects hand extensor tendons, results in substantial pain and impairments for sporting and everyday activities and requires several weeks of recovery. Unfortunately, prevention remains limited by the lack of data regarding biomechanical risk factors, especially because in vivo evaluation of hand tendon forces remains challenging. Electromyography-informed musculo-skeletal modeling is a noninvasive approach to provide physiological estimation of tendon forces based on motion capture and electromyography but was never applied to study hand tendon loading during tennis playing. The objective of this study was to develop such electromyography-informed musculo-skeletal model to provide new insight into hand tendon loading in tennis players. The model was tested with three-dimensional kinematics and electromyography data of two players performing forehand drives at two-shot speeds and with three rackets. Muscle forces increased with shot speed but were moderately affected by racket properties. Wrist prime extensors withstood the highest forces, but their relative implication compared to flexors depended on the player-specific grip force and racket motion strategy. When normalizing wrist extensor forces by shot speed and grip strength, up to threefold differences were observed between players, suggesting that gesture technique, for example, grip position or joint motion coordination, could play a role in the overloading of wrist extensor tendons. This study provided a new methodology for in situ analysis of hand biomechanical loadings during tennis gesture and shed a new light on lateral epicondylitis risk factors.


Assuntos
Cotovelo de Tenista , Tênis , Humanos , Eletromiografia , Cotovelo de Tenista/etiologia , Tênis/fisiologia , Punho/fisiologia , Tendões , Fenômenos Biomecânicos , Força da Mão/fisiologia
3.
J Sports Sci ; 37(8): 886-894, 2019 Apr.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-30326778

RESUMO

Pull-ups are often used by sport-climbers and other athletes to train their arm and back muscle capabilities. Sport-climbers use different types of holds to reinforce finger strength concomitantly. However, the effect of grip types on pull-up performance had not previously been investigated. A vertical force platform sensor measured the force exerted by climbers when performing pull-ups under six different grip conditions (gym-bar, large climbing hold, and four small climbing holds: 22mm, 18mm, 14mm, and 10mm). The electromyography of finger flexors and extensor muscles were recorded simultaneously. The maximal arm power and summed mechanical work were computed. The results revealed that the number of pull-ups, maximal power, and summed mechanical work decreased significantly with the size of the climbing hold used, even if no differences were found between a large climbing hold and a gym-bar. Electromyography of the forearm muscles revealed that the use of a climbing hold generated finger flexor fatigue and that the level of cocontraction was impacted by the different segment coordination strategies generated during the pull-ups. These findings are likely to be useful for quantifying training loads more accurately and designing training exercises and programs.


Assuntos
Braço/fisiologia , Dedos/fisiologia , Força da Mão/fisiologia , Montanhismo/fisiologia , Músculo Esquelético/fisiologia , Fenômenos Biomecânicos , Eletromiografia , Humanos , Masculino , Contração Muscular/fisiologia , Fadiga Muscular/fisiologia , Treinamento Resistido , Análise e Desempenho de Tarefas , Adulto Jovem
4.
J Hum Evol ; 125: 106-121, 2018 12.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-30502891

RESUMO

Differences in grip techniques used across primates are usually attributed to variation in thumb-finger proportions and muscular anatomy of the hand. However, this cause-effect relationship is not fully understood because little is known about the biomechanical functioning and mechanical loads (e.g., muscle or joint forces) of the non-human primate hand compared to that of humans during object manipulation. This study aims to understand the importance of hand proportions on the use of different grip strategies used by humans, extant great apes (bonobos, gorillas and orangutans) and, potentially, fossil hominins (Homo naledi and Australopithecus sediba) using a musculoskeletal model of the hand. Results show that certain grips are more challenging for some species, particularly orangutans, than others, such that they require stronger muscle forces for a given range of motion. Assuming a human-like range of motion at each hand joint, simulation results show that H. naledi and A. sediba had the biomechanical potential to use the grip techniques considered important for stone tool-related behaviors in humans. These musculoskeletal simulation results shed light on the functional consequences of the different hand proportions among extant and extinct hominids and the different manipulative abilities found in humans and great apes.


Assuntos
Força da Mão/fisiologia , Mãos/anatomia & histologia , Hominidae/anatomia & histologia , Hominidae/fisiologia , Comportamento de Utilização de Ferramentas/fisiologia , Animais , Fenômenos Biomecânicos , Humanos , Modelos Anatômicos , Fenômenos Fisiológicos Musculoesqueléticos , Sistema Musculoesquelético/anatomia & histologia
5.
Eur J Appl Physiol ; 117(11): 2309-2320, 2017 Nov.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-28932987

RESUMO

PURPOSE: The mechanisms governing the control of musculoskeletal redundancy remain to be fully understood. The hand is highly redundant, and shows different functional role of extensors according to its configuration for a same functional task of finger flexion. Through intermuscular coherence analysis combined with hand musculoskeletal modelling during maximal isometric hand contractions, our aim was to better understand the neural mechanisms underlying the control of muscle force coordination and agonist-antagonist co-contraction. METHODS: Thirteen participants performed maximal isometric flexions of the fingers in two configurations: power grip (Power) and finger-pressing on a surface (Press). Hand kinematics and force/moment measurements were used as inputs in a musculoskeletal model of the hand to determine muscular tensions and co-contraction. EMG-EMG coherence analysis was performed between wrist and finger flexors and extensor muscle pairs in alpha, beta and gamma frequency bands. RESULTS: Concomitantly with tailored muscle force coordination and increased co-contraction between Press and Power (mean difference: 48.08%; p < 0.05), our results showed muscle-pair-specific modulation of intermuscular coupling, characterized by pair-specific modulation of EMG-EMG coherence between Power and Press (p < 0.05), and a negative linear association between co-contraction and intermuscular coupling for the ECR/FCR agonist-antagonist muscle pair (r = - 0.65; p < 0.05). CONCLUSIONS: This study brings new evidence that pair-specific modulation of EMG-EMG coherence is related to modulation of muscle force coordination during hand contractions. Our results highlight the functional importance of intermuscular coupling as a mechanism contributing to the control of muscle force synergies and agonist-antagonist co-contraction.


Assuntos
Dedos/fisiologia , Contração Isométrica , Músculo Esquelético/fisiologia , Adulto , Fenômenos Biomecânicos , Dedos/inervação , Humanos , Masculino , Força Muscular , Músculo Esquelético/inervação
6.
J Sports Sci ; 35(16): 1643-1651, 2017 Aug.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-27599110

RESUMO

This paper investigates how tennis players control stroke-induced vibration. Its aim is to characterise how a tennis player deals with entering vibration waves or how he/she has the ability to finely adjust them. A specific experimental procedure was designed, based on simultaneously collecting sets of kinematic, vibration and electromyographic data during forehand strokes using various commercial rackets and stroke intensities. Using 14 expert players, a wide range of excitations at spectral and temporal levels were investigated. Energetic and spectral descriptors of stroke-induced vibration occurring at the racket handle and at the player's wrist and elbow were computed. Results indicated that vibrational characteristics are strongly governed by grip force and to a lower extent by the racket properties. Grip force management drives the amount of energy, as well as its distribution, into the forearm. Furthermore, hand-grip can be assimilated to an adaptive filter which can significantly modify the spectral parameters propagating into the player's upper limb. A significant outcome is that these spectral characteristics are as much dependent on the player as on the racket. This contribution opens up new perspectives in equipment manufacture by underlining the need to account for player/racket interaction in the design process.


Assuntos
Antebraço/fisiologia , Equipamentos Esportivos , Tênis/fisiologia , Vibração , Fenômenos Biomecânicos , Cotovelo/fisiologia , Eletromiografia , Desenho de Equipamento , Força da Mão/fisiologia , Humanos , Masculino , Sistemas Homem-Máquina , Punho/fisiologia , Adulto Jovem
7.
J Sports Sci ; 35(12): 1155-1164, 2017 Jun.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-27472165

RESUMO

The aim of this article is to characterise the extent to which the dynamic behaviour of a tennis racket is dependent on its mechanical characteristics and the modulation of the player's grip force. This problem is addressed through steps involving both experiment and modelling. The first step was a free boundary condition modal analysis on five commercial rackets. Operational modal analyses were carried out under "slight", "medium" and "strong" grip force conditions. Modal frequencies and damping factors were then obtained using a high-resolution method. Results indicated that the dynamic behaviour of a racket is not only determined by its mechanical characteristics, but is also highly dependent on the player's grip force. Depending on the grip force intensity, the first two bending modes and the first torsional mode frequencies respectively decreased and increased while damping factors increased. The second step considered the design of a phenomenological hand-gripped racket model. This model is fruitful in that it easily predicts the potential variations in a racket's dynamic behaviour according to the player's grip force. These results provide a new perspective on the player/racket interaction optimisation by revealing how grip force can drive racket dynamic behaviour, and hence underlining the necessity of taking the player into account in the racket design process.


Assuntos
Força da Mão , Equipamentos Esportivos , Tênis/fisiologia , Fenômenos Biomecânicos , Desenho de Equipamento , Humanos
8.
Eur J Appl Physiol ; 115(5): 947-57, 2015 May.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-25515018

RESUMO

PURPOSE: This study investigated the hand and wrist muscle capacities among expert rock climbers and compared them with those of non-climbers. The objective was to identify the adaptations resulting from several years of climbing practice. METHODS: Twelve climbers (nine males and three females) and 13 non-climber males participated in this study. Each subject performed a set of maximal voluntary contractions about the wrist and the metacarpo-phalengeal joints during which net joint moments and electromyographic activities were recorded. From this data set, the muscle capacities of the five main muscle groups of the hand (wrist flexors, wrist extensors, finger flexors, finger extensors and intrinsic muscles) were estimated using a biomechanical model. This process consisted in adjusting the physiological cross-sectional area (PCSA) and the maximal muscle stress value from an initial generic model. RESULTS: Results obtained from the model provided several new pieces of information compared to the analysis of only the net joint moments. Particularly, the capacities of the climbers were 37.1 % higher for finger flexors compared to non-climbers and were similar for finger extensor and for the other muscle groups. Climbers thus presented a greater imbalance between flexor and extensor capacities which suggests a potential risk of pathologies. CONCLUSIONS: The practice of climbing not only increased the strength of climbers but also resulted in specific adaptations among hand muscles. The proposed method and the obtained data could be re-used to optimize the training programs as well as the rehabilitation processes following hand pathologies.


Assuntos
Força da Mão/fisiologia , Mãos/fisiologia , Força Muscular/fisiologia , Músculo Esquelético/fisiologia , Punho/fisiologia , Adolescente , Adulto , Eletromiografia , Feminino , Dedos/fisiologia , Humanos , Masculino , Montanhismo/fisiologia , Resistência Física/fisiologia , Adulto Jovem
9.
J Appl Biomech ; 31(6): 430-8, 2015 Dec.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-26214057

RESUMO

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effect of handle shape on the grip force distribution in the hand and on the muscle forces during maximal power grip tasks. Eleven subjects maximally grasped 3 handles with different external shapes (circular, elliptic, and double-frustum). A handle dynamometer, equipped with both a force sensor and a pressure map, was used to record the forces exerted at the hand/handle interface. The finger and wrist joint postures were also computed from synchronized kinematic measurement. These processed data were then used as input of a biomechanical hand model to estimate muscle forces. The results showed that handle shape influences the maximal grip force, the grip force distribution, and the finger joint postures. Particularly, we observed that the elliptical shape resulted in a 6.6% lower maximal grip force compared with the circular and double-frustum handle. Concomitantly, the estimated muscle forces also varied significantly according to the handle shape, with up to 48% differences for the flexor digitorum superficialis muscle for example. Interestingly, different muscle coordination strategies were observed depending on the handle shape, therefore suggesting a potential influence of these geometrical characteristics on pathological risks such as tendonitis.


Assuntos
Força da Mão/fisiologia , Sistemas Homem-Máquina , Contração Muscular/fisiologia , Dinamômetro de Força Muscular , Pressão , Análise e Desempenho de Tarefas , Adulto , Ergonomia/instrumentação , Ergonomia/métodos , Humanos , Masculino , Reprodutibilidade dos Testes , Sensibilidade e Especificidade , Estresse Mecânico
10.
Bioengineering (Basel) ; 11(1)2024 Jan 17.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38247962

RESUMO

Sport climbing performance is highly related to upper limb strength and endurance. Although finger-specific methods are widely analyzed in the literature, no study has yet quantified the effects of arm-specific training. This study aims to compare the effects of three types of training involving different muscle contraction regimens on climbers' pull-up capabilities. Thirty advanced to high-elite climbers were randomly divided into four groups: eccentric (ECC; n = 8), isometric (ISO; n = 7), plyometric (PLYO; n = 6), and no specific training (CTRL; n = 9), and they participated in a 5-week training, twice a week, focusing on pull-ups on hangboard. Pre- and post-training assessments were conducted using a force-sensing hangboard, analyzing force, velocity, power, and muscle work during three pull-up exercises: pull-ups at body weight under different conditions, incremental weighted pull-ups, and an exhaustion test. The CTRL group showed no change. Maximum strength improved in all three training groups (from +2.2 ± 3.6% to +5.0 ± 2.4%; p < 0.001); velocity variables enhanced in the ECC and PLYO groups (from +5.7 ± 7.4 to +28.7 ± 42%; p < 0.05), resulting in greater power; amplitude increased in the ECC group; and muscle work increased in the PLYO group (+21.9 ± 16.6%; p = 0.015). A 5-week training period effectively enhanced arm performance, but outcomes were influenced by the chosen muscle contraction regimens and initial individual characteristics.

11.
Motor Control ; 28(3): 305-325, 2024 Jul 01.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38589014

RESUMO

Pedaling is a physical exercise practiced with either the upper or the lower limbs. Muscle coordination during these exercises has been previously studied using electromyography and synergy analysis, and three to four synergies have been identified for the lower and upper limbs. The question of synergy adaptabilities has not been investigated during pedaling with the upper limbs, and the impact of various modalities is yet not known. This study investigates the effect of pedal type (either clipped/gripped or flat) on the torque performance and the synergy in both upper and lower limbs. Torques applied by six participants while pedaling at 30% of their maximal power have been recorded for both upper and lower limbs. Electromyographic data of 11 muscles on the upper limbs and 11 muscles on the lower limbs have been recorded and synergies extracted and compared between pedal types. Results showed that the torques were not modified by the pedal types for the lower limbs while a deep adaptation is observable for the upper limbs. Participants indeed used the additional holding possibility by pulling the pedals on top of the pushing action. Synergies were accordingly modified for upper limbs while they remain stable for the lower limbs. In both limbs, the synergies showed a good reproducibility even if larger variabilities were observed for the upper limbs. This pilot study highlights the adaptability of muscle synergies according to the condition of movement execution, especially observed for the upper limbs, and can bring some new insights for the rehabilitation exercises.


Assuntos
Ciclismo , Eletromiografia , Extremidade Inferior , Músculo Esquelético , Torque , Extremidade Superior , Humanos , Músculo Esquelético/fisiologia , Masculino , Extremidade Superior/fisiologia , Extremidade Inferior/fisiologia , Adulto , Projetos Piloto , Ciclismo/fisiologia , Fenômenos Biomecânicos/fisiologia , Adulto Jovem , Feminino
12.
J Biomech ; 166: 112042, 2024 Mar.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38498967

RESUMO

Hypermobility of the trapeziometacarpal joint is commonly considered to be a potential risk factor for osteoarthritis. Nevertheless, the results remain controversial due to a lack of quantitative validation. The objective of this study was to evaluate the effect of joint laxity on the mechanical loadings of cartilage. A patient-specific finite element model of trapeziometacarpal joint passive stiffness was developed. The joint passive stiffness was modeled by creating linear springs all around the joint. The linear spring stiffness was determined by using an optimization process to fit force-displacement data measured during laxity tests performed on eight healthy volunteers. The estimated passive stiffness parameters were then included in a full thumb finite element simulation of a pinch grip task driven by muscle forces to evaluate the effect on trapeziometacarpal loading. The correlation between stiffness and the loading of cartilage in terms of joint contact pressure and maximum shear strain was analyzed. A significant negative correlation was found between the trapeziometacarpal joint passive stiffness and the contact pressure on trapezium cartilage during the simulated pinch grip task. These results therefore suggest that the hypermobility of the trapeziometacarpal joint could affect the contact pressure on trapezium cartilage and support the existence of an increased risk associated with hypermobility.


Assuntos
Cartilagem Articular , Osteoartrite , Trapézio , Humanos , Polegar/fisiologia , Trapézio/fisiologia , Força da Mão
13.
PeerJ ; 11: e15886, 2023.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37780381

RESUMO

This study explored the capabilities of sport climbers to pull up with arms. The methodology aimed at assessing (i) concentric capabilities of arm muscles, (ii) body coordination skills (iii) characteristics of energy storage and (iv) capabilities to resist fatigue. Twenty-eight climbers were tested and the force exerted was recorded during three pull-up exercises: jump tests (with or without coordination, or preceded by an eccentric phase), incrementally weighted pull-ups and maximum number of pull-ups. Force, velocity, muscle power and muscle work were analysed using ANOVA with post-hoc tests and principal component analysis. Correlations with climbing level were also studied. Overall, jump test results showed that body coordination and stretch-shortening cycle phenomena contributed significantly to performance but only the body coordination was related to the climber's grade level. Muscle work and maximum number of pull-ups are correlated with climbing level which showed that the capacity to resist fatigue is another crucial capability of climbers arms. The development of force capacities appeared crucial for performing whereas the velocity capabilities seemed to originate from the climber's own characteristics/style without correlating with climbing performance. Our study provides the basis for evaluating these parameters in order to help trainers in the diagnosis process and training follow-up.


Assuntos
Montanhismo , Esportes , Montanhismo/fisiologia , Esportes/fisiologia , Extremidade Superior/fisiologia , Braço/fisiologia
14.
Ann Biomed Eng ; 51(11): 2453-2464, 2023 Nov.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37326945

RESUMO

Grip strength loss in extended and flexed wrist postures has been explained by reduced force-generating capacities of extrinsic finger flexor resulting from non-optimal length, owing to the force-length relationship. Recent works suggested that other muscles, especially wrist extensors, participate in this grip strength loss. The objective of this study was to clarify the role of the force-length relationship in finger force production. 18 participants performed maximal isometric finger force production during pinch grip (Pinch) and four-finger pressing (Press) tasks in four different wrist postures (extended, flexed, neutral, spontaneous). The maximum finger force (MFF), finger and wrist joint angles, as well as activation of four muscles were determined using dynamometry, motion capture, and electromyography. The force and length of the four muscles were estimated from joint angles and muscle activation using a musculoskeletal model. MFF decreased for flexed wrist during Pinch but remained stable across wrist postures during Press. The results suggested that the loss of pinch grip force in deviated wrist posture is partially related to force-length relationship of finger extensors. In opposition, MFF during Press was not influenced by the modulation of muscle capacities but was probably first limited by mechanical and neural factors related to finger interdependence.

15.
Front Sports Act Living ; 5: 1243354, 2023.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38077281

RESUMO

Introduction: Finger strength is a key factor in climbing performance and is highly dependent on the capacity of the finger flexor muscles. The majority of finger-specific training therefore focuses on improving such capabilities by performing finger flexion contraction during hanging exercises on small holds. However, greater strength in the finger flexors causes an imbalance with the extensor muscle capacities. Such an unfavourable imbalance may be detrimental to finger strength and could possibly lead to an increase in the risk of finger injury. The aim of this study was to develop an easily implementable method to assess the flexor-to-extensor imbalance and evaluate the effects of different training on it. Methods: Seventy-eight experienced climbers were tested to assess their maximum finger flexion strength (MFS), maximum finger extension strength (MES) and MFS/MES ratio. Fifty-two of them were randomly assigned to one of three training regimens: intermittent static flexion at 80% MFS (TFlex; n = 11), intermittent static extension at 80% MES (TExt; n = 10), intermittent repetition of alternating flexion and extension (TPaired; n = 11) or no specific training (CTRL; n = 20). They trained twice a week for four weeks on a hangboard. Before and after training, force data were recorded on a force-sensing hangboard and MFS, MES and the MFS/MES ratio were compared using ANCOVA. Results: The mean value of the MFS/MES ratio was 6.27 (confidence interval: 5.94-6.61) and the extreme ratio was defined above 8.75. Concerning the training intervention, no difference was observed in the CTRL group between pre- and post-tests. MFS improved significantly in the TFlex (+8.4 ± 4.4%) and TPaired (+11.9 ± 10.5%) groups, whereas MES increased significantly in the TExt group (+41.4 ± 31.3%). The MFS/MES ratio remained statistically stable among all groups (+0.9 ± 17.5% in TFlex, -1.9 ± 16.1% in TPaired), although the TExt group showed a decreasing trend (p = 0.1; -27.8 ± 17.6%). Discussion: These results showed that only the extensor-based training had an effect on finger extension strength and the potential to rebalance the MFS/MES ratio.

16.
J Biomech ; 152: 111573, 2023 05.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37037117

RESUMO

The trapeziometacarpal (TMC) joint is the one of the hand joints that is most affected by osteoarthritis (OA). The objective of this study was to determine if specific morphological parameters could be related to the amount of pressure endured by the joint which is one of the factors contributing to the development of this pathology. We developed 15 individualized 3D computer aided design (CAD) models of the TMC joint, each generated from the CT scan of a different participant. For each participant, we measured several crucial morphological parameters: the width and length of the trapezium bone and dorso-volar and ulno-radial curvature, of the trapezium and the metacarpal bone. Each CAD model was converted into a finite element model, of both bones and the cartilage located in between. The joint forces applied during pinch grip and power grip tasks were then applied in order to estimate the contact pressures on joint cartilage for each model. Correlations between joint contact pressures and morphology of the trapezium and the metacarpal bone were then analysed. Important variations of TMC joint pressures were observed. For both pinch and power grip tasks, the strongest correlation with joint contact pressure was with the dorso-volar curvature of the trapezium bone. Our findings indicate that dorso-volar curvature of the trapezium bone has a significant impact on mechanical loadings on the TMC joint. This contributes to understanding the prevalence of OA in certain patients.


Assuntos
Articulações Carpometacarpais , Ossos Metacarpais , Osteoartrite , Trapézio , Trapézio/diagnóstico por imagem , Trapézio/fisiopatologia , Ossos Metacarpais/diagnóstico por imagem , Ossos Metacarpais/fisiopatologia , Articulações Carpometacarpais/diagnóstico por imagem , Articulações Carpometacarpais/fisiopatologia , Osteoartrite/etiologia , Pressão , Humanos , Masculino , Feminino , Adulto , Pessoa de Meia-Idade , Imageamento Tridimensional
17.
J Sports Sci ; 30(7): 669-77, 2012.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-22339482

RESUMO

The aim of this study was to understand how the commonly used climbing-specific grip techniques and hold depths influence the finger force capacities. Ten advanced climbers performed maximal voluntary force on four different hold depths (from 1 to 4 cm) and in two force directions (antero-posterior and vertical) using three grip techniques (slope, half crimp and full crimp). A specially designed platform instrumented with a 6-degrees-of-freedom (DoF) force/torque sensor was used to record force values. Results showed that the maximal vertical forces differed significantly according to the hold depth and the grip technique (ranged from 350.8 N to 575.7 N). The maximal vertical forces increased according to the hold depth but the form of this increase differed depending on grip technique. These results seemed to be more associated with finger-hold contact/interaction than with internal biomechanical factors. Similar results were revealed for antero-posterior forces (ranged from 69.9 N to 138.0 N) but, it was additionally noted that climbers have different hand-forearm posture strategies with slope and crimp grip techniques when applying antero-posterior forces. This point is important as it could influence the body position adopted during climbing according to the chosen grip technique. For trainers and designers, a polynomial regression model was proposed in order to predict the mean maximal force based on hold depth and adopted grip technique.


Assuntos
Dedos/fisiologia , Força da Mão/fisiologia , Movimento/fisiologia , Contração Muscular/fisiologia , Esforço Físico/fisiologia , Postura , Análise e Desempenho de Tarefas , Adolescente , Adulto , Fenômenos Biomecânicos , Antebraço , Mãos , Humanos , Masculino , Análise de Regressão , Adulto Jovem
18.
Ergonomics ; 55(6): 682-92, 2012.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-22458871

RESUMO

The objective of this study was to analyse the effect of the handle diameter on the grip forces exerted by the hand during a maximal power grip task. A handle ergometer, combining six instrumented beams and a pressure map, was used to determine the forces exerted by the palm side of the hand regrouping data from 10 anatomical sites (fingertips, phalanges, thumb, palm…). This methodology provided results giving new insight into the effect of the handle diameter on the forces exerted by the hand. First, it appeared that the relationship between the hand length/handle diameter ratio and the maximal grip force fit a U-inverted curve with maximal values observed for a handle diameter measuring 17.9% of the hand length. Second, it was showed that the handle diameter influenced the forces exerted on the anatomical sites of the hand. Finally, it was showed that the handle diameter influenced the finger force sharing particularly for the index and the little fingers. Practitioner Summary: This study analysed the effect of the handle diameter on the grip forces exerted by the hand during a maximal power grip force. This study showed that measurement of the totality of the forces exerted at the hand/handle interface is needed to better understand the ergonomics of handle tools. Our results could be re-used by designers and clinicians in order to develop handle tools which prevent hand pathologies.


Assuntos
Ergonomia , Força da Mão/fisiologia , Mãos/fisiologia , Contração Isométrica/fisiologia , Músculo Esquelético/fisiologia , Adulto , Análise de Variância , Desenho de Equipamento , Humanos , Masculino , Análise de Regressão , Estatística como Assunto , Análise e Desempenho de Tarefas
19.
Sports Biomech ; 11(4): 473-9, 2012 Nov.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-23259237

RESUMO

The main purpose of this study was to examine the effect of chalk on the friction coefficient between climber's fingers and two different rock types (sandstone and limestone). The secondary purpose was to investigate the effects of humidity and temperature on the friction coefficient and on the influence of chalk. Eleven experienced climbers took part in this study and 42 test sessions were performed. Participants hung from holds which were fixed on a specially designed hang board. The inclination of the hang board was progressively increased until the climber's hand slipped from the holds. The angle of the hang board was simultaneously recorded by using a gyroscopic sensor and the friction coefficient was calculated at the moment of slip. The results showed that there was a significant positive effect of chalk on the coefficient of friction (+18.7% on limestone and +21.6% on sandstone). Moreover sandstone had a higher coefficient of friction than limestone (+15.6% without chalk, +18.4% with chalk). These results confirmed climbers' belief that chalk enhances friction. However, no correlation with humidity/temperature and friction coefficient was noted which suggested that additional parameters should be considered in order to understand the effects of climate on finger friction in rock climbing.


Assuntos
Atletas , Fricção , Magnésio/química , Montanhismo/fisiologia , Carbonato de Cálcio/química , Feminino , Dedos/fisiologia , Humanos , Umidade , Masculino , Temperatura
20.
Front Sports Act Living ; 4: 862782, 2022.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35498522

RESUMO

Climbing-specific training programs on hangboards are often based on dead-hang repetitions, but little is known about the real intensity applied during such effort. The aim of this study was to quantify and compare the effects of different training intensities (maximal, high submaximal, and low submaximal intensities) on the fingers' physiological capabilities using a hangboard fitted with force sensors. In total, 54 experienced climbers (13 women and 41 men) were randomly divided into four groups, with each group following different training intensity programs: maximal strength program performed at 100% of the maximal finger strength (MFS; F100), intermittent repetitions at 80% MFS (F80), intermittent repetitions at 60% MFS (F60), and no specific training (control group). Participants trained on a 12 mm-deep hold, twice a week for 4 weeks. The MFS, stamina, and endurance levels were evaluated using force data before and after training. Results showed similar values in the control group between pre- and post-tests. A significantly improved MFS was observed in the F100 and F80 groups but not in the F60 group. Significantly higher stamina and endurance measurements were observed in the F80 and F60 groups but not in the F100 group. These results showed that a 4-week hangboard training enabled increasing MFS, stamina and endurance, and that different improvements occurred according to the level of training intensity. Interestingly, the different intensities allow improvements in the targeted capacity (e.g., stamina for the F80 group) but also in the adjacent physiological capabilities (e.g., MFS for the F80 group).

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