Safety assessment of cosmetics by read across applied to metabolomics data of in vitro skin and liver models.

As a result of the cosmetics testing ban, safety evaluations of cosmetics ingredients must now be conducted using animal-free methods. A common approach is read across, which is mainly based on structural similarities but can also be conducted using biological endpoints. Here, metabolomics was used to assess biological effects to enable a read across between a candidate cosmetic ingredient, DIV665, only studied using in vitro assays, and a structurally similar reference compound, PA102, previously investigated using traditional in vivo toxicity methods. The (1) cutaneous distribution after topical application, (2) skin metabolism, (3) liver metabolism and (4) effect on the intracellular metabolomic profiles of in vitro skin and hepatic models, SkinEthic®RHE model and HepaRG® cells were investigated. The compounds exhibited similar skin penetration and skin and liver metabolism, with small differences attributed to their physicochemical properties. The effects of both compounds on the metabolome of RHE and HepaRG® cells were similarly small, both in terms of the metabolites modulated and the magnitude of changes. The patterns of metabolome changes did not fit with any known signature relating to a mode of action known to be linked to liver toxicity e.g. modification of the Krebs cycle, urea synthesis and lipid metabolism, were more reflective of transient adaptive responses. Overall, these studies indicate that PA102 is biologically similar to DIV665, allowing read across of safety endpoints, such as in vivo sub-chronic (but not reproduction toxicity) studies, for the former to be applied to DIV665. Based on this, in the absence of animal data (which is prohibited for new chemicals), it could be concluded that DIV665 applied according to the consumer topical use scenario, is similar to PA102, and is predicted to exhibit low local skin and systemic toxicity.

Microalgae n-3 PUFAs Production and Use in Food and Feed Industries.

N-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids (n-3 PUFAs), and especially eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), are essential compounds for human health. They have been proven to act positively on a panel of diseases and have interesting anti-oxidative, anti-inflammatory or anti-cancer properties. For these reasons, they are receiving more and more attention in recent years, especially future food or feed development. EPA and DHA come mainly from marine sources like fish or seaweed. Unfortunately, due to global warming, these compounds are becoming scarce for humans because of overfishing and stock reduction. Although increasing in recent years, aquaculture appears insufficient to meet the increasing requirements of these healthy molecules for humans. One alternative resides in the cultivation of microalgae, the initial producers of EPA and DHA. They are also rich in biochemicals with interesting properties. After defining macro and microalgae, this review synthesizes the current knowledge on n-3 PUFAs regarding health benefits and the challenges surrounding their supply within the environmental context. Microalgae n-3 PUFA production is examined and its synthesis pathways are discussed. Finally, the use of EPA and DHA in food and feed is investigated. This work aims to define better the issues surrounding n-3 PUFA production and supply and the potential of microalgae as a sustainable source of compounds to enhance the food and feed of the future.

Dereplication of Natural Extracts Diluted in Glycerin: Physical Suppression of Glycerin by Centrifugal Partition Chromatography Combined with Presaturation of Solvent Signals in 13C-Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy.

For scientific, regulatory, and safety reasons, the chemical profile knowledge of natural extracts incorporated in commercial cosmetic formulations is of primary importance. Many extracts are produced or stabilized in glycerin, a practice which hampers their characterization. This article proposes a new methodology for the quick identification of metabolites present in natural extracts when diluted in glycerin. As an extension of a 13C nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) based dereplication process, two complementary approaches are presented for the chemical profiling of natural extracts diluted in glycerin: A physical suppression by centrifugal partition chromatography (CPC) with the appropriate biphasic solvent system EtOAc/CH3CN/water 3:3:4 (v/v/v) for the crude extract fractionation, and a spectroscopic suppression by presaturation of 13C-NMR signals of glycerin applied to glycerin containing fractions. This innovative workflow was applied to a model mixture containing 23 natural metabolites. Dereplication by 13C-NMR was applied either on the dry model mixture or after dilution at 5% in glycerin, for comparison, resulting in the detection of 20 out of 23 compounds in the two model mixtures. Subsequently, a natural extract of Cedrus atlantica diluted in glycerin was characterized and resulted in the identification of 12 metabolites. The first annotations by 13C-NMR were confirmed by two-dimensional NMR and completed by LC-MS analyses for the annotation of five additional minor compounds. These results demonstrate that the application of physical suppression by CPC and presaturation of 13C-NMR solvent signals highly facilitates the quick chemical profiling of natural extracts diluted in glycerin.

Evaluation of antioxidant properties of monoaromatic derivatives of pulvinic acids.

The natural mushroom pigment Norbadione A and three other pulvinic acids were shown by our group to display very efficient antioxidant properties by comparison with a collection of potent molecules including catechols, flavonoids, stilbenes, or coumarins. Despite numerous publications on robust and straightforward synthetic access to pulvinic acids by us and others, no report has been made to unravel the structure-activity relationships that govern the striking antioxidant activity. Herein is presented the synthesis of 18 diverse pulvinic acid derivatives and the study of their radical scavenging capacities by four different assays. The influence of each of the two phenyl rings, of their substituents and of the lateral chain on the antioxidant properties, was explored to reveal a simplified structure of excellent activity. These results, along with the absence of cytotoxicity, make the synthesized compounds interesting to evaluate for several biological activities and especially for anti-inflammatory effects and skin protection against UV induced oxidative stress.