A new phytocosmetic preparation from Thymus vulgaris stimulates adipogenesis and controls skin aging process: In vitro studies and topical effects in a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial.

BACKGROUND: The use of the injectable products for soft tissue augmentation and treatment of skin aging is an uncomfortable, invasive and related to several complications, and chronic reactions, mainly after long-term application. Efforts to develop new topically active anti-aging products with fewer adverse effects are a huge challenge that should be faced. AIMS: We evaluated the anti-aging effects of a phytocosmetic preparation containing Thymus vulgaris associated with lecithin (ThymLec) on the facial wrinkles, expression lines, and face oval remodeling using a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial and in vitro cell culture assays. METHODS: A clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of ThymLec 2% on the area, length, and depth of the perioral and crow's feet wrinkles, nasolabial and smile lines, as well as face oval remodeling in female volunteers using a sophisticated Bio3D Structured-light Scanner. In the in vitro studies using 3T3-L1 mouse embryonic fibroblasts, adiponectin was measured by immunoenzymatic assay, adipogenesis by the AdipoRed reagent method, and the PPAR-γ expression by RT-PCR analysis. RESULTS: Topical treatment with ThymLec 2% reduced facial wrinkles and expression lines promoting a face oval remodeling. In the in vitro studies, ThymLec upregulated the PPAR-γ expression increasing adiponectin production and stimulating the adipogenesis process. CONCLUSIONS: The phytocosmetic preparation containing Thymus vulgaris and lecithin is an innovative and safe topical anti-aging product promoting fat tissue augmentation by adipogenesis stimulation via the upregulation of PPAR-γ expression and adiponectin production.

Novel topical skin hydration agent containing Anadenanthera colubrina polysaccharide-standardized herbal preparation.

BACKGROUND: Hydration is an important factor to promote skin barrier function, metabolism, and appearance. In this process, the presence of aquaglyceroporins, envelope and lipid synthesis, and metabolism proteins are essential to provide greater corneocyte cohesion and to form a barrier avoiding transepidermal water loss. OBJECTIVE: We evaluated the effects of a new topical pigment-free agent containing an Anadenanthera colubrina polysaccharide-rich dermocosmetic preparation (ACP) on the aquaporin-3 (AQP-3), filaggrin (FLG), involucrin (INV), glucocerebrosidase (GBA), and elongation of very-long-chain fatty acid (ELOVL) proteins production in skin human fragments, as well as on the transepidermal water loss in a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial. METHODS: AQP3, FLG, INV, GBA, and ELOVL3 levels were measured by immunofluorescence analysis in human skin explants. Clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of ACP 1% and ACP 3% on the transepidermal water loss (TEWL). RESULTS: Image and statistical analysis showed that ACP 3% significantly increased at 90% the expression of AQP3. Similarly, ACP 3% was able to promote a significant increase of 68% and 51% in FLG and INV, respectively. ACP 3% produced no effects on the GBA and ELOVL3 proteins. Transepidermal water loss was significantly reduced in human volunteers under treatment with ACP 1% and ACP 3%. CONCLUSION: ACP reduced transepidermal water loss in a clinical trial, promoting human skin hydration. These effects were related to modulation of the AQP3, FLG, and INV as evidenced by immunofluorescence assay. This way, A colubrina polysaccharide-rich phytopharmaceutical preparation is an effective additive product to skin hydration.