The Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Humulus lupulus Extract In Vivo Depends on the Galenic System of the Topical Formulation.

We demonstrated the anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative effects of Humulus lupulus (HL) extract on solar simulator-irradiated primary human keratinocytes (PHKs) by analyzing ERK and p38 MAPK phosphorylation and production of IL-6 and IL-8. The anti-inflammatory effect of topically applied HL was further tested in vivo on human skin. To this end, we developed an oil-in-water (O/W) and a water-in-oil (W/O) cream with a lipid content of 40%. The anti-inflammatory effect of 1% HL extract incorporated in these two vehicles was assessed in a randomized, prospective, placebo controlled, double-blind UVB erythema study with 40 healthy volunteers. Hydrocortisone acetate (HCA) in the corresponding vehicle served as positive control. Surprisingly, both HL and HCA were only effective in the O/W system but not in the W/O formulation. Release studies using vertical diffusion cells (Franz cells) revealed that HCA was released in much higher amounts from the O/W cream compared to the W/O formulation. In summary, we have shown that 1% HL extract exerts anti-inflammatory effects comparable to 1% HCA, but only when incorporated in our O/W cream. Our findings confirm the critical role of the vehicle in topical anti-inflammatory systems.

The Herbal Bitter Drug Gentiana lutea Modulates Lipid Synthesis in Human Keratinocytes In Vitro and In Vivo.

Gentiana lutea is a herbal bitter drug that is used to enhance gastrointestinal motility and secretion. Recently we have shown that amarogentin, a characteristic bitter compound of Gentiana lutea extract (GE), binds to the bitter taste receptors TAS2R1 and TAS2R38 in human keratinocytes, and stimulates the synthesis of epidermal barrier proteins. Here, we wondered if GE also modulates lipid synthesis in human keratinocytes. To address this issue, human primary keratinocytes were incubated for 6 days with GE. Nile Red labeling revealed that GE significantly increased lipid synthesis in keratinocytes. Similarly, gas chromatography with flame ionization detector indicated that GE increases the amount of triglycerides in keratinocytes. GE induced the expression of epidermal ceramide synthase 3, but not sphingomyelinase. Lipid synthesis, as well as ceramide synthase 3 expression, could be specifically blocked by inhibitors of the p38 MAPK and PPARγ signaling pathway. To assess if GE also modulates lipid synthesis in vivo, we performed a proof of concept half side comparison on the volar forearms of 33 volunteers. In comparison to placebo, GE significantly increased the lipid content of the treated skin areas, as measured with a sebumeter. Thus, GE enhances lipid synthesis in human keratinocytes that is essential for building an intact epidermal barrier. Therefore, GE might be used to improve skin disorders with an impaired epidermal barrier, e.g., very dry skin and atopic eczema.