Biocosmetics Made with Saccharina latissima Fractions from Sustainable Treatment: Physicochemical and Thermorheological Features.

This work deals with the formulation of natural cosmetics enriched with antioxidant fractions from the ultrasound treatment (US) of the brown seaweed Saccharina latissima. The challenge was the development of a cosmetic matrix without jeopardizing the thermorheological features of the creams, adding microparticles containing the antioxidant fractions using two different carriers, mannitol and alginate. The fundamental chemical characteristics of seaweed and the extracts obtained via sonication, as well as the antioxidant properties of the latter, were analyzed. The highest TEAC (Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity) value was identified for the extracts subjected to the longest processing time using ultrasound-assisted extraction (240 min). A similar yield of microparticle formulation (around 60%) and load capacity (about 85%) were identified with mannitol and alginate as carriers. Color testing of the creams exhibited small total color differences. The rheological results indicated that the testing temperature, from 5 to 45 °C, notably influenced the apparent viscosity of the matrices. All creams were adequately fitted with the two parameters of the Ostwald-de Waele model, with the flow consistency index following an Arrhenius dependency with the testing temperature. Neither hysteresis nor water syneresis was observed in the proposed cosmetics during 6 months of cold storage at 4-6 °C.

Green Extraction of Antioxidant Fractions from Humulus lupulus Varieties and Microparticle Production via Spray-Drying.

The formulation of polymeric microparticles to encapsulate bioactive compounds from two hop varieties (Nugget and Perle) using sequential green extraction processes was performed. The technologies used were ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) and pressurized hot water (PHW) extraction. Liquid phases were analyzed for total phenolic content (~2%), antioxidant activity (IC50, DPPH: 3.68 (Nugget); 4.46 (Perle) g/L, TEAC (~4-5%), FRAP (~2-3%), and reducing power (~4%)), protein content (~1%), oligosaccharide content (~45%), and for structural features. The fractions obtained from UAE were selected to continue with the drying process, achieving the maximum yield at 120 °C (Perle) and 130 °C (Nugget) (~77%). Based on these results, the formulation of polymeric microparticles using mannitol as the carrier was performed with these fractions. The production yield (~65%), particle size distribution (Perle: 250-750 µm and Nugget: ~100 µm), and rheological features (30-70 mPa s at 0.1 s-1) were the parameters evaluated. The UAE extracts from hop samples processed using a sustainable aqueous treatment allowed the formulation of microparticles with a suitable yield, and morphological and viscosity properties adequate for potential food and non-food applications.

Microwave-Assisted Hydrothermal Processing of Rugulopteryx okamurae.

One possible scheme of Rugulopteryx okamurae biomass valorization based on a green, rapid and efficient fractionation technique was proposed. Microwave-assisted pressurized hot water extraction was the technology selected as the initial stage for the solubilization of different seaweed components. Operation at 180 °C for 10 min with a 30 liquid-to-solid ratio solubilized more than 40% of the initial material. Both the alginate recovery yield (3.2%) and the phenolic content of the water-soluble extracts (2.3%) were slightly higher when distilled water was used as solvent. However, the carbohydrate content in the extract (60%) was similar for both solvents, but the sulfate content was higher for samples processed with salt water collected from the same coast as the seaweeds. The antiradical capacity of the extracts was related to the phenolic content in the extracts, but the cytotoxicity towards HeLa229 cancer cells was highest (EC50 = 48 µg/mL) for the extract obtained with distilled water at the lowest temperature evaluated. Operation time showed a relevant enhancement of the extraction performance and bioactive properties of the soluble extracts. The further fractionation and study of this extract would be recommended to extend its potential applications. However, due to the low extraction yield, emphasis was given to the solid residue, which showed a heating value in the range 16,102-18,413 kJ/kg and could be useful for the preparation of biomaterials according to its rheological properties.

Formulation of Polymeric Microparticles Using Eco-Friendly Extracted Crude Fucoidans from Edible Brown Seaweed Undaria pinnatifida.

Several bioactive compounds that hold a potential interest in the food industry as phenolic compounds, polysaccharides, proteins and vitamins, among others, are present in seaweeds. Green extraction technologies are the preferred way to obtain these compounds. Pressurized hot water extraction, from 160 to 220 °C, was tested to achieve high yields of these components from the edible brown seaweed, Undaria pinnatifida. The maximum fucoidan content was recovered at 160 °C, while the phloroglucinol content and antioxidant activity were maximum at 220 °C. The possibility of encapsulating these bioactive fractions using mannitol was assessed. The highest production yield of the polymeric particles was found using the 220 °C fraction (close to 75%). In order to formulate microparticles with bioactive potential, several ratios of liquid phases were assessed, 3:1, 1:1 and 1:3 (w:w), using the liquid fractions obtained at 160 °C and 220 °C. The yield production was always above 67%, being in the 1:3 ratio (160 °C:220 °C) and close to 75%. The rheological results indicated that the presence of microparticles enhanced the apparent viscosity of the aqueous dispersions with non-Newtonian profiles, achieving the highest viscosity for those formulated with microparticles from 160 °C:200 °C (3:1).

Pressurized Hot Water Extraction and Bio-Hydrogels Formulation with Aristotelia chilensis [Mol.] Stuntz Leaves.

Aristotelia chilensis is a plant rich in phenolics and other bioactive compounds. Their leaves are discarded as waste in the maqui berry industry. A new application of these wastes is intended by the recovery of bioactive compounds using pressurized hot water extraction with conventional or microwave heating. Both technologies have been selected for their green character regarding the type of solvent and the high efficiency in shorter operation times. Extractions were performed in the temperature range 140-200 °C with a solid/liquid ratio of 1:15 (w:w). The extracts' total phenolic content, antioxidant capacity, and saccharides content obtained with both heating methods were measured. Additionally, the thermo-rheological properties of the gelling matrix enriched with these extracts were analyzed. Optimum conditions for lyophilized extracts were found with conventional heating, at 140 °C and 20 min extraction; 250.0 mg GAE/g dry extract and 1321.5 mg Trolox/g dry extract. Close to optimum performance was achieved with microwave heating in a fraction of the time (5 min) at 160 °C (extraction), yielding extracts with 231.9 mg GAE/g dry extract of total phenolics and antiradical capacity equivalent to 1176.3 mg Trolox/g dry extract. Slightly higher antioxidant values were identified for spray-dried extracts (between 5% for phenolic content and 2.5% for antioxidant capacity). The extracts obtained with both heating methods at 200 °C contained more than 20% oligosaccharides, primarily glucose. All the formulated gelling matrices enriched with the obtained extracts displayed intermediate gel strength properties. The tested technologies efficiently recovered highly active antioxidant extracts, rich in polyphenolics, and valuable for formulating gelling matrices with potential applicability in foods and other products.

Applying Seaweed Compounds in Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics.

The interest in seaweeds for cosmetic, cosmeceutics, and nutricosmetics is increasing based on the demand for natural ingredients. Seaweeds offer advantages in relation to their renewable character, wide distribution, and the richness and versatility of their valuable bioactive compounds, which can be used as ingredients, as additives, and as active agents in the formulation of skin care products. Bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols, polysaccharides, proteins, peptides, amino acids, lipids, vitamins, and minerals, are responsible for the biological properties associated with seaweeds. Seaweed fractions can also offer technical features, such as thickening, gelling, emulsifying, texturizing, or moistening to develop cohesive matrices. Furthermore, the possibility of valorizing industrial waste streams and algal blooms makes them an attractive, low cost, raw and renewable material. This review presents an updated summary of the activities of different seaweed compounds and fractions based on scientific and patent literature.

Valorization of Arnica montana Wastes after Extraction of the Ethanol Tincture: Application in Polymer-Based Matrices.

The waste solids remaining after the ethanolic extraction of arnica were proposed as raw material for the recovery of the remaining phenolic fraction. Greener processes based on intensification extraction, with microwave (MHG) and ultrasound (UAE) assistance and pressurized hot water extraction under subcritical conditions (AH), were studied. The entire process provided approximately 28% of phenolics for the sequence when MHG was used, 22% in the sequence where AH was employed, and the extracts showed up to 60% the ABTS radical scavenging capacity of Trolox. However, the cytotoxic effects on the cell growth of tumoral cells were only moderate. Therefore, considering a possible external topical application, extracts containing selected arnica extracts were further used to develop polymer-based gelled matrices formulated with either chitosan or polyvinyl alcohol. Rheological testing indicated that all proposed matrices exhibited relatively high mechanical features, even better than those determined with matrices prepared with their counterpart commercial arnica tinctures. Overall, the shear-thinning behavior of gelled matrices loaded with arnica extracts obtained by MHG or AH stages was enhanced compared to those containing ethanolic extracts, whereas the viscoelastic features became smoother for polymeric matrices incorporated with arnica extracts recovered at the highest MHG irradiation powers or at the highest set point temperatures of AH treatments.