Formulation of topical acidic products and acidification of the skin - Contribution of glycolic acid.

OBJECTIVE: The acidic skin pH is one of the regulating factors of skin barrier homeostasis. Topical products as extrinsic factors which influence skin pH could be used for acidification of the skin and consequent beneficial effect. To formulate stabile and safe topical emulsion product with low pH is on-going challenge and areas interesting to explore are related to the effect of acidic products on the skin pH together with development of protocols for these studies. Aim of our work was to investigate formulations of acidic topical products with glycolic acid (GA) stabilized with long chain alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier, in regard to the specific colloidal structure of the vehicle, together with effect of products with different concentration of acidic active on skin pH. METHODS: Investigated formulations were basic vehicle and two creams with glycolic acid (concentration 2 and 10 wt%). Microstructure was investigated by polarization microscopy, Raman spectral imaging, thermal analysis and rheological measurements. Effects on the skin were assessed by measurement of biophysical skin parameters in vivo studies (5-hour, 24-hour and 7-days). In vitro screening of antimicrobial activity was performed against bacteria Staphylococcus epidermidis. RESULTS: Polarization micrographs and Raman images have shown that GA does not disturb the specific colloidal structure. Together with rheological and thermal analysis obtained results have shown that GA in higher concentrations contributes to vehicles' lamellar structure. In 5-hour study the mean values of skin pH ranged from 3.98-4.25 and 3.89-4.10 after application of products with smaller and higher GA concentration. GA samples lowered skin surface pH to 5 and less in 24-hour and 7-day study, with stronger effect of sample with more GA. Sample with 10% of GA had significant inhibitory effect on growth of S. epidermidis in 1:1 concentration. CONCLUSIONS: Investigated APG emulsifier could be used as a stabilizer for acidic topical products with GA which are characterized by satisfactory safety profile. Topical products induce acidification of the skin after short- and long-term application without barrier impairment or sign of irritation. Acidification of the skin depends on presence of ingredients which are proton donors and their concentrations.

OBJECTIF: Le pH acide de la peau est l'un des facteurs de régulation de l'homéostasie de la barrière cutanée. Les produits topiques pourraient être utilisés en tant que facteurs extrinsèques d'influence du pH cutané pour permettre l'acidification de la peau et obtenir l'effet bénéfique qui en résulte. Formuler des émulsions topiques stables et sûres à faible pH représente un défi constant et les domaines d'étude dignes d'intérêt portent sur l'effet des produits acides sur le pH cutané et sur l'élaboration de protocoles pour ces études. L'objectif de notre travail était d'étudier des formulations de produits topiques acides à base d'acide glycolique (AG) stabilisé à l'aide d'un émulsionnant à base d'alkylpolyglucoside (APG) à longue chaîne, par rapport à la structure colloïdale spécifique de l'excipient, ainsi que l'effet des produits à différentes concentrations d'acide actif sur le pH cutané. MÉTHODES: Les formulations étudiées étaient un excipient de base et deux crèmes à base d'acide glycolique (concentration égale à 2 % et 10 % de la fraction massique). La microstructure a été étudiée par microscopie à polarisation, par spectroscopie Raman, par analyse thermique et par mesures rhéologiques. Les effets cutanés ont été évalués par la mesure des paramètres cutanés biophysiques dans des études in vivo (5 heures, 24 heures et 7 jours). Un dépistage in vitro de l'activité antimicrobienne a été effectué sur la bactérie Staphylococcus epidermidis. RÉSULTATS: Les micrographies après polarisation et les images obtenues par spectroscopie Raman ont montré que l'AG ne perturbe pas la structure colloïdale spécifique. Avec les analyses rhéologique et thermique, les résultats obtenus ont montré que l'AG à des concentrations plus élevées joue un rôle dans la structure lamellaire des excipients. Dans l'étude de 5 heures, les valeurs moyennes du pH cutané allaient de 3,98 à 4,25 et de 3,89 à 4,10 après l'application des produits présentant une concentration d'AG plus faible et plus élevée. Grâce aux échantillons d'AG, le pH de la surface cutanée a diminué, passant ainsi à une valeur de 5 et à des valeurs inférieures dans les études de 24 heures et de 7 jours, et l'échantillon contenant davantage d'AG a eu un effet plus important. L'échantillon contenant 10 % d'AG a eu un effet inhibiteur significatif sur la croissance de la bactérie S. epidermidis à une concentration de 1:1. CONCLUSION: L'émulsionnant à base d'APG étudié pourrait être utilisé comme stabilisateur pour les produits topiques acides à base d'AG caractérisés par un profil d'innocuité satisfaisant. Les produits topiques induisent une acidification de la peau après une application à court et à long terme sans altération de la barrière cutanée ou signe d'irritation. L'acidification de la peau dépend de la présence de donneurs de proton parmi les composants et de leurs concentrations.

Low-energy nanoemulsions as carriers for red raspberry seed oil: Formulation approach based on Raman spectroscopy and textural analysis, physicochemical properties, stability and in vitro antioxidant/ biological activity.

Considering a growing demand for medicinal/cosmetic products with natural actives, this study focuses on the low-energy nanoemulsions (LE-NEs) prepared via the Phase inversion composition (PIC) method at room temperature as potential carriers for natural oil. Four different red raspberry seed oils (ROs) were tested, as follows: cold-pressed vs. CO2-extracted, organic vs. non-organic, refined vs. unrefined. The oil phase was optimized with Tocopheryl acetate and Isostearyl isostearate, while water phase was adjusted with either glycerol or an antioxidant hydro-glycolic extract. This study has used a combined approach to formulation development, employing both conventional methods (pseudo-ternary phase diagram - PTPD, electrical conductivity, particle size measurements, microscopical analysis, and rheological measurements) and the methods novel to this area, such as textural analysis and Raman spectroscopy. Raman spectroscopy has detected fine differences in chemical composition among ROs, and it detected the interactions within nanoemulsions. It was shown that the cold-pressed, unrefined, organic grade oil (RO2) with 6.62% saturated fatty acids and 92.25% unsaturated fatty acids, was optimal for the LE-NEs. Textural analysis confirmed the existence of cubic gel-like phase as a crucial step in the formation of stable RO2-loaded LE-NEs, with droplets in the narrow nano-range (125 to 135 nm; PDI ≤ 0.1). The DPPH test in methanol and ABTS in aqueous medium have revealed a synergistic free radical scavenging effect between lipophilic and hydrophilic antioxidants in LE-NEs. The nanoemulsion carrier has improved the biological effect of raw materials on HeLa cervical adenocarcinoma cells, while exhibiting good safety profile, as confirmed on MRC-5 normal human lung fibroblasts. Overall, this study has shown that low-energy nanoemulsions present very promising carriers for topical delivery of natural bioactives. Raman spectroscopy and textural analysis have proven to be a useful addition to the arsenal of methods used in the formulation and characterization of nanoemulsion systems.

Alp Rose stem cells, olive oil squalene and a natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier: Are they appropriate ingredients of skin moisturizers - in vivo efficacy on normal and sodium lauryl sulfate - irritated skin?.

Background/Aim: Since skin moisturization may be achieved by both actives and chosen carrier, plant stem cells, squalene and natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier may be potential components of contemporary cosmetic products. The aim of the study was in vivo evaluation of the skin irritation potential and the efficacy of Alpine Rose stem cells incorporated into li-posomes and olive oil squalene as ingredients of moisturizing creams, with respect to the novel emulsifier used for creams' stabilization. Methods: With the employment of noninvasive skin biophysical measurements, skin hydration (EC), transepi-dermal water loss (TEWL), erythema index (EI) and viscoelas-ticity were measured on 76 healthy volunteers. In the first phase, skin irritation after a 24-hour occlusion and the long-term efficacy of creams (a 21-day study) on healthy skin were evaluated. Phase II of the study focused on the cream efficacy assessment after a 6-day treatment of sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin. Results: After a 24-hour occlusion, there were no significant changes in the EI for any tested sample. In the second phase of the study, the EI was not significantly altered for the cream containing squalene, while the application of all active samples resulted in a significant reduction of TEWL. In both phases of the study an EC increase was recorded, espe-cially for the squalene-containing cream. Conclusion: Due to the lack of skin irritation and skin barrier impairment along with the marked hydration effect, it could be said that the in-vestigated actives incorporated into alkyl polyglucoside emulsi-fier-stabilized creams may be safely applied as ingredients for "tailor-made" cosmetic moisturizers intended for normal and dry skin care, whereas olive oil squalene could be used for the treatment of irritated or sensitive skin as well. [Projekat Ministarstva nauke Republike Srbije, br. TR34031]