Hats Off to Modeling! Profiling Early Synthetic Dyes on Historic Woolen Samples with ATR-FTIR Spectroscopy and Multivariate Curve Resolution-Alternating Least Square Algorithm.

This research focuses on analyzing wool samples dyed with synthetic dyes from the early 20th century. A methodology to identify and distinguish wool fibers dyed with azo, triphenylmethane, and xanthene dyes, which are no longer in use, using the ATR-FTIR spectra, is presented. Firstly, the dataset was subjected to PCA, which revealed the similarities and differences among the samples, illustrating a distribution pattern based on dye classes. MCR-ALS was employed to extract the spectral profiles of the dyed fibers, thereby enhancing the efficacy of the analytical techniques and extracting the comprehensive information from a single instrument. The combination of ATR-FTIR spectroscopy with chemometric methods, such as PCA and MCR-ALS, has proven to be an effective strategy for identifying and differentiating wool fibers dyed with early azo, triphenylmethane, and xanthene dyes. This approach has demonstrated particular effectiveness in enabling rapid analysis without requiring sampling or pretreatment. Moreover, the analysis is supported by thorough bibliographic research on these no longer used colorants. In order to maximize the potential of non-destructive spectroscopic techniques, such as ATR-FTIR, the approach used has proven to be crucial. This study underscores how chemometric techniques expand the capabilities of spectroscopy, extracting extensive information from a single instrument and aligning with the goals of cultural heritage analysis.

A Possible Natural and Inexpensive Substitute for Lapis Lazuli in the Frederick II Era: The Finding of Haüyne in Blue Lead-Tin Glazed Pottery from Melfi Castle (Italy).

The blue color of glass and ceramic glazes produced in Apulia and Basilicata (Southern Italy) between the 13th and 14th centuries and connected to the Norman-Swabian Emperor Frederick II, has been, for a long time, under archaeometric investigation. On the one hand, it has usually been associated with lapis lazuli, due to the finding of the polysulphide blue chromophores typical of lazurite. Moreover, the observation that the mineral haüyne, which belongs to the sodalite group as well as lazurite, can be blue and/or can gain a blue color after heating, due to the same chromophores, has caused this automatic attribution to be questioned, and also considering that the mineral is characteristic of the rock haüynophyre of Melfi (Potenza, Southern Italy), a location of interest for glass and pottery findings. In this paper, for the first time, several haüyne crystals were found in the blue glaze of a ceramic dish found at Melfi Castle, leading to the hypothesis that, in this case, the local haüyne-bearing source could have been used as the coloring raw material. The discovery was possible thanks to SEM-EDS and Raman analyses that, respectively, highlighted the typical numerous presence of very fine sulphur-based inclusions in the crystals and the characteristic Raman signal of blue haüyne. This study was also focused on the composition of the crystals inclusions, aided by SEM-EDS and Raman maps, since the original very fine pyrrhotite was transformed into Cu and Pb phases (copper sulphates, copper sulphides, and lead oxide) due to reactions with cations that had mobilized from the glaze, while the migration of Si from the glass allowed the transformation of the rim of the haüyne, a silica-undersaturated mineral, into a corona of small euhedral and neomorphic Pb-rich feldspars, a silica-saturated phase.

Pigments and Techniques of Hellenistic Apulian Tomb Painting.

The wall paintings of five Hellenistic tombs in Apulia were analysed using a multi-technique approach to discern the painting techniques used and contextualise them within the phenomenon of Hellenistic tomb painting in Southern Italy. In particular, the question was asked whether technical knowledge played a role in the reception of Hellenistic artistic models and whether this knowledge was present locally. Raman and IR spectroscopies were used to identify pigments, colourants, and binders; light and electron microscopy were used to determine the structural characteristics of the paint layers and recognise the manufacturing technique. Analyses identified a fresco application for the Tomba dei Cavalieri (Arpi) and a dry application for the Canosian hypogea. The palette-typical for Hellenistic tomb painting in Southern Italy, Etruria and Macedonia-was composed of lime (white), charcoal (black), hematite (red), goethite (yellow), and Egyptian blue (blue). In the Tomba della Nike (Arpi), meanwhile, two particularly refined preparatory layers were observed. The palette was enriched with precious cinnabar and madder lake. The colouring components of the root were mixed with clay and K-alum applied on an additional layer of lime. The use of madder lake and a pink background link the painting to the polychrome Daunian pottery, and the contribution of a local workshop to the decoration of this tomb thus seems plausible.

Inorganic Elements in Mytilus galloprovincialis Shells: Geographic Traceability by Multivariate Analysis of ICP-MS Data.

The international seafood trade is based on food safety, quality, sustainability, and traceability. Mussels are bio-accumulative sessile organisms that need regular control to guarantee their safe consumption. However, no well-established and validated methods exist to trace mussel origin, even if several attempts have been made over the years. Recently, an inorganic multi-elemental fingerprint coupled to multivariate statistics has increasingly been applied in food quality control. The mussel shell can be an excellent reservoir of foreign inorganic chemical species, allowing recording long-term environmental changes. The present work investigates the multi-elemental composition of mussel shells, including Al, Cu, Cr, Zn, Mn, Cd, Co, U, Ba, Ni, Pb, Mg, Sr, and Ca, determined by inductively-coupled plasma mass-spectrometry in Mytilus galloprovincialis collected along the Central Adriatic Coast (Marche Region, Italy) at 25 different sampling sites (18 farms and 7 natural banks) located in seven areas. The experimental data, coupled with chemometric approaches (principal components analysis and linear discriminant analysis), were used to create a statistical model able to discriminate samples as a function of their production site. The LDA model is suitable for achieving a correct assignment of >90% of individuals sampled to their respective harvesting locations and for being applied to counteract fraud.