State-of-the-Art in Skin Fluorescent Photography for Cosmetic and Skincare Research: From Molecular Spectra to AI Image Analysis.

Autofluorescence is a remarkable property of human skin. It can be excited by UV and observed in the dark using special detection systems. The method of fluorescence photography (FP) is an effective non-invasive tool for skin assessment. It involves image capturing by a camera the emission of light quanta from fluorophore molecules in the skin. It serves as a useful tool for cosmetic and skincare research, especially for the detection of pathological skin states, like acne, psoriasis, etc. To the best of our knowledge, there is currently no comprehensive review that fully describes the application and physical principles of FP over the past five years. The current review covers various aspects of the skin FP method from its biophysical basis and the main fluorescent molecules of the skin to its potential applications and the principles of FP recording and analysis. We pay particular attention to recently reported works on the automatic analysis of FP based on artificial intelligence (AI). Thus, we argue that FP is a rapidly evolving technology with a wide range of potential applications. We propose potential directions of the development of this method, including new AI algorithms for the analysis and expanding the range of applications.

Skinly: A novel handheld IoT device for validating biophysical skin characteristics.

BACKGROUND: Recent advancements in artificial intelligence have revolutionized dermatological diagnostics. These technologies, particularly machine learning (ML), including deep learning (DL), have shown accuracy equivalent or even superior to human experts in diagnosing skin conditions like melanoma. With the integration of ML, including DL, the development of at home skin analysis devices has become feasible. To this end, we introduced the Skinly system, a handheld device capable of evaluating various personal skin characteristics noninvasively. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Equipped with a moisture sensor and a multi-light-source camera, Skinly can assess age-related skin parameters and specific skin properties. Utilizing state-of-the-art DL, Skinly processed vast amounts of images efficiently. The Skinly system's efficacy was validated both in the lab and at home, comparing its results to established "gold standard" methods. RESULTS: Our findings revealed that the Skinly device can accurately measure age-associated parameters, that is, facial age, skin evenness, and wrinkles. Furthermore, Skinly produced data consistent with established devices for parameters like glossiness, skin tone, redness, and porphyrin levels. A separate study was conducted to evaluate the effects of two moisturizing formulations on skin hydration in laboratory studies with standard instrumentation and at home with Skinly. CONCLUSION: Thanks to its capability for multi-parameter measurements, the Skinly device, combined with its smartphone application, holds the potential to replace more expensive, time-consuming diagnostic tools. Collectively, the Skinly device opens new avenues in dermatological research, offering a reliable, versatile tool for comprehensive skin analysis.

Qualification of an automated device to objectively assess the effect of hair care products on hair shine.

The authors developed and qualified an automated routine screening tool to quantify hair shine. This tool is able to separately record individual properties of hair shine such as specular reflection and multiple reflection, as well as additional features such as sparkle, parallelism of hair fibers, and hair color, which strongly affect the subjective ranking by individual readers. A side-by-side comparison of different hair care and styling products with regard to hair shine using the automated screening tool in parallel with standard panel assessment showed that the automated system provides an almost identical ranking and the same statistical significances as the panel assessment. Provided stringent stratification of hair fibers for color and parallelism, the automated tool competes favorably with panel assessments of hair shine. In this case, data generated with the opsira Shine-Box are clearly superior over data generated by panel assessment in terms of reliability and repeatability, workload and time consumption, and sensitivity and specificity to detect differences after shampoo, conditioner, and leave-in treatment. The automated tool is therefore well suited to replace standard panel assessments in claim support, at least as a screening tool. A further advantage of the automated system over panel assessments is the fact that absolute numeric values are generated for a given hair care product, whereas panel assessments can only give rankings of a series of hair care products included in the same study. Thus, the absolute numeric data generated with the automated system allow comparison of hair care products between studies or at different time points after treatment.

Non-invasive monitoring of oxidative skin stress by ultraweak photon emission (UPE)-measurement. I: mechanisms of UPE of biological materials.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Oxidation of proteins and amino acids is associated with generation of ultraweak photon emission (UPE), which may be used to assess oxidative processes in the skin in a non-invasive way. This first part of a series of reports addresses the physicochemical basis of oxidation-induced UPE in the skin, with a special focus on the contribution of amino acid oxidation. METHODS: UPE of biological samples and protein/amino acid solutions following oxidation with H(2)O(2) in the presence of Fe(2+) was recorded using a sensitive photomultiplier system. Signals were analyzed with regard to overall signal intensity and spectral distribution. RESULTS: Increasing concentrations of H(2)O(2) in aqueous bovine serum albumin solutions induced linearly correlated UPE and protein carbonyl compounds, with a substantially higher sensitivity for the measurement of UPE. In single amino acid solutions, strong UPE signals were generated by oxidation from Phe, Trp, His, and Cys, and weak signals from Lys and Thr. Analysis of reaction products by MS revealed high oxidative material turnover for Cys and His, whereas barely detectable oxidative material turnover seems to be sufficient to generate a UPE signal of similar strength from Trp and Phe. Combination of different amino acids did not result in a simple addition of individual oxidation-induced UPE signals, but in interactions ranging from antagonism to clear synergism. Synergism was evident between Trp- and UPE-generating amino acids such as Thr, Cys, and His, with the strongest synergism by far observed between Trp and His. The strikingly different individual UPE spectra of His and Trp, despite being of comparable overall strength, were congruent with a pure Trp UPE spectrum after combining His with Trp in solution, indicating energy transfer between both amino acids. Combination of Trp and DNA, which also gives UPE signals following oxidation, did not result in a synergistically enhanced or antagonized overall UPE signal, but in a simple addition of individual UPE signals. CONCLUSION: Measurement of UPE could be proven to be a highly sensitive method to assess oxidative processes in biological molecules. The reported data indicate that UPE generated by oxidation stressed skin is mainly due to non-fluorescent photon emission via Trp, whereby Trp acts as an energy receptor from other excited species of oxidation-modified amino acids.

Non-invasive monitoring of oxidative skin stress by ultraweak photon emission measurement. II: biological validation on ultraviolet A-stressed skin.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Several physical or chemical environmental stressors generate reactive oxygen species, which trigger oxidation reactions of cells or tissues and thereby induce a correlated ultraweak photon emission (UPE) signal. The present study was designed to qualify and validate UPE measurement following ultraviolet (UV) excitation of porcine and human skin as an analytical method to assess the potency of topical antioxidants in vivo. METHODS: UPE of porcine skin in vitro and human skin in vivo following excitation with UVA was recorded using sensitive photomultiplier systems. For validation purposes, the effects of variation of extrinsic and intrinsic parameters encompassing skin thickness, humidity, temperature, pH, and composition of the surrounding atmosphere were assessed. Signals were analyzed with regard to overall signal intensity and spectral distribution. In two clinical trials enrolling 20 volunteers each, the effects of topical antioxidant treatment on UVA-induced UPE were validated. RESULTS: Different stressors encompassing exposition to ozone, UVA irradiation, or even cigarette smoke induced UPE of skin. Critical parameters affecting the quality and quantity of the UPE signal were the spectral composition of the exciting UV light, skin temperature, skin humidity, and the O(2) concentration of the surrounding atmosphere. Generally, UVA-induced UPE decreased with increasing temperature, humidity, and O(2) concentration. Skin pH had no significant effect on UPE with regard to signal quality and quantity over a pH range of 2.8-8.2. In a clinical study UPE measurement following UVA excitation could precisely reflect a dose-dependent antioxidant effect of topically applied vitamin C and alpha-glucosylrutin. CONCLUSION: Our data indicate that UVA irradiation induces UPE especially in deeper (living) skin layers, where antioxidants must be active in order to interfere with accelerated skin ageing. Based on the clinical data, and with knowledge of modulating external variables, UPE measurement following UV excitation can be qualified as a reliable and valid method for the non-invasive measurement of antioxidant efficacy on the skin.