Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of 2'-Hydroxy-4',6'-dimethoxychalcone in B16F10 and RAW264.7 Cells.

Chalcone is a type of flavonoid compound that is widely biosynthesized in plants. Studies have shown that consuming flavonoids from fruits and vegetables or applying individual ingredients reduces the risk of skin disease. However, the effects of chalcone on melanogenesis and inflammation have not been fully investigated. The aim of this study was to evaluate the anti-melanogenic and anti-inflammatory effects of 2'-hydroxy-3,4'-dimethoxychalcone (3,4'-DMC), 2'-hydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxychalcone (4,4'-DMC), 2'-hydroxy-3',4'-dimethoxychalcone (3',4'-DMC), and 2'-hydroxy-4',6'-dimethoxychalcone (4',6'-DMC). Among the derivatives of 2'-hydroxy-4'-methoxychalcone, 4',6'-DMC demonstrated the most potent melanogenesis-inhibitory and anti-inflammatory effects. As evidenced by various biological assays, 4',6'-DMC showed no cytotoxicity and notably decreased the expression of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2 enzymes. Furthermore, it reduced cellular melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity in B16F10 melanoma cells by downregulating microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), cAMP-dependent protein kinase (PKA), cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB), p38, c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), ß-catenin, glycogen synthase kinase-3ß (GSK3ß), and protein kinase B (AKT) proteins, while upregulating extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and p-ß-catenin. Additionally, treatment with 4',6'-DMC significantly mitigated the lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced expression of NO, PGE2, inflammatory cytokines, COX-2, and iNOS proteins. Overall, 4',6'-DMC treatment notably alleviated LPS-induced damage by reducing nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB), p38, JNK protein levels, and NF-kB/p65 nuclear translocation. Finally, the topical applicability of 4',6'-DMC was evaluated in a preliminary human skin irritation test and no adverse effects were found. These findings suggest that 4',6'-DMC may offer new possibilities for use as functional ingredients in cosmeceuticals and ointments.

Anti-Photoaging Effects of Upcycled Citrus junos Seed Anionic Peptides on Ultraviolet-Radiation-Induced Skin Aging in a Reconstructed Skin Model.

Side streams and byproducts of food are established sources of natural ingredients in cosmetics. In the present study, we obtained upcycled low-molecular-weight anionic peptides (LMAPs) using byproducts of the post-yuzu-juicing process by employing an enzyme derived from Bacillus sp. For the first time, we isolated anionic peptides less than 500 Da in molecular weight from Citrus junos TANAKA seeds via hydrolysis using this enzyme. The protective effect of LMAPs against UVR-induced photoaging was evaluated using a reconstructed skin tissue (RST) model and keratinocytes. The LMAPs protected the keratinocytes by scavenging intracellular reactive oxygen species and by reducing the levels of paracrine cytokines (IL-6 and TNF-α) in UVR (UVA 2 J/cm2 and UVB 15 mJ/cm2)-irradiated keratinocytes. Additionally, the increase in melanin synthesis and TRP-2 expression in RST caused by UVR was significantly inhibited by LMAP treatment. This treatment strongly induced the expression of filaggrin and laminin-5 in UVR-irradiated RST. It also increased type I collagen expression in the dermal region and in fibroblasts in vitro. These results suggest that a hydrolytic system using the enzyme derived from Bacillus sp. can be used for the commercial production of LMAPs from food byproducts and that these LMAPs can be effective ingredients for improving photoaging-induced skin diseases.

Activation of Hair Cell Growth Factors by Linoleic Acid in Malva verticillata Seed.

Hair loss by excessive stress from work and lifestyle changes has become a growing concern, particularly among young individuals. However, most drugs for alopecia impose a plethora of side effects. We have found the powerful impact of Malva verticillata seed extracts on alleviating hair loss. This study further isolated effective chemicals in M. verticillata seed extracts by liquid silica gel column chromatography. Under the screening for the growth rate (%) of human follicles dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs), we identified linoleic acid (LA) and oleic acid in n-hexane of M. verticillate (MH)2 fraction. LA treatment activated Wnt/ß-catenin signaling and induced HFDPCs growth by increasing the expression of cell cycle proteins such as cyclin D1 and cyclin-dependent kinase 2. LA treatment also increased several growth factors, such as vascular endothelial growth factor, insulin-like growth factor-1, hepatocyte growth factor, and keratinocyte growth factor, in a dose-dependent manner. Besides, LA significantly inhibited Dickkopf-related protein expression (DKK-1), a primary alopecia signaling by dihydrotestosterone. Our findings suggest that LA treatment may alleviate a testosterone-induced signaling molecule and induces HFDPCs growth by activating Wnt/ß-catenin signaling.

A Bioassay Using a Pentadecanal Derivative to Measure S1P Lyase Activity.

Sphingosine-1-phosphate (S1P) is a unique lipid ligand binding to S1P receptors to transduce various cell survival or proliferation signals via small G proteins. S1P lyase (S1PL) is the specific enzyme that degrades S1P to phosphoethanolamine and (2E)-hexadecenal and therefore regulates S1P levels. S1PL also degrades dihydrosphingosine-1-phosphate (Sa1P), with a higher affinity to produce hexadecanal. Here, we developed a newly designed assay using a C17-Sa1P substrate that degrades into pentadecanal and phosphoethanolamine. For higher sensitivity in pentadecanal analysis, we developed a quantitative protocol as well as a 5,5-dimethyl cyclohexanedione (5,5-dimethyl CHD) derivatization method. The derivatization conditions were optimized for the reaction time, temperature, and concentrations of the 5,5-dimethyl CHD reagent, acetic acid, and ammonium acetate. The S1PL reaction in the cell lysate after spiking 20 µM of C17-Sa1P for 20 min was linear to the total protein concentrations of 50 µg. The S1PL levels (4 pmol/mg/min) were readily detected in this HPLC with fluorescence detection (λex = 366 nm, λem = 455 nm). The S1PL-catalyzed reaction was linear over 30 min and yielded a Km value of 2.68 µM for C17-Sa1P. This new method was validated to measure the S1PL activity of mouse embryonal carcinoma cell lines of the standard cell (F9-0), S1PL knockdown cells (F9-2), and S1PL-overexpressed cells (F9-4). Furthermore, we treated F9-4 cells with different S1PL inhibitors such as FTY720, 4-deoxypyridoxine (DOP), and the deletion of pyridoxal-5-phosphate (P5P), an essential cofactor for S1PL activity, and observed a significant decrease in pentadecanal relative to the untreated cells. In conclusion, we developed a highly sensitive S1PL assay using a C17-Sa1P substrate for pentadecanal quantification for application in the characterization of S1PL activity in vitro.

Anti-melanogenic effects of hot-water extracts from Torreya nucifera via MAPKs and cAMP signaling pathway on B16F10 cells.

Torreya nucifera is an evergreen tree in the family Taxaceae, the seeds, leaves, and stems of which have long been used as edible products and herbal medicines in Korea. Previous studies of biological activity have shown that T. nucifera has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. However, the effect of T. nucifera leaves on melanogenesis are yet to be studied. In this investigation, we used B16F10 melanoma cells to test the efficacy of T. nucifera leaf hot water extract (TLWE). α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells were treated with various concentrations of TLWE (50, 100, and 200 µg/mL). The results showed that TLWE reduced the melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity in a concentration-dependent manner. It also inhibited the phosphorylation of p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase (p38) and c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) in the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling pathway. The compounds catechin and ρ-coumaric acid, which are known to have a whitening effect on skin, were detected by HPLC analysis. These results suggest that TLWE has an anti-melanogenic effect. In addition, the safety of TLWE was tested. The results of the skin irritation test showed that TLWE is harmless to the human skin, even at higher concentrations than those used in the experiment. Therefore, we suggest that the water extract of T. nucifera leaves has potential for use as a skin-whitening agent.

Antimelanogenic Effects of Polygonum tinctorium Flower Extract from Traditional Jeju Fermentation via Upregulation of Extracellular Signal-Regulated Kinase and Protein Kinase B Activation.

This study was carried out to investigate the antimelanogenic effects of a Polygonum tinctorium flower extract obtained using red nuruk, a traditional Jeju barley-based fermentation starter. We also studied the mechanism of action of the P. tinctorium fermented flower extract (PTFFE) in mouse melanoma cells (B16F10). Cells were treated with various concentrations (62.5, 125 and 250 µg/mL) of PTFFE and the results showed that PTFFE significantly decreased the melanin content and tyrosinase activity without being cytotoxic. In addition, PTFFE strongly inhibited the expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 2 by decreasing the expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, as shown by a western blot assay. Furthermore, PTFFE inhibited melanogenesis via upregulation of the phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and protein kinase B, also known as AKT. We also used inhibitors such as PD98059 (a specific ERK inhibitor) or LY294002 (an AKT inhibitor) to determine whether the signaling pathways are involved. High-performance liquid chromatography fingerprinting showed the presence of a quercetin glucoside (isoquercitrin) and quercetin in PTFFE. To test the potential for PTFFE application as a cosmetic material, we also performed a primary skin irritation test on human skin. In this assay, PTFFE did not induce any adverse reactions at the treatment dose. Based on these results, we suggest that PTFFE may be considered a potential antimelanogenesis candidate for topical applications.

Pratol, an O-Methylated Flavone, Induces Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells via p-p38 and p-JNK Upregulation.

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme critical for melanin synthesis. It controls pigmentation in the skin. Activation of tyrosinase is currently the most common approach in the development of tanning and haircare products. Pratol is a 7-hydroxy-4-methoxyflavone found in Trifoliumpratense. In this study, we investigated the effects of pratol on melanogenesis. We also studied the mechanism of action of pratol in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. The cells were treated with various concentrations (6.25, 12.5, 25, and 50 µM) of pratol to observe its effects. The results showed that pratol significantly increased melanin content and tyrosinase activity in the cells without being cytotoxic. In addition, pratol strongly increased the expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 and 2 by enhancing the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor. Furthermore, pratol stimulated melanogenesis via the phosphorylation of p38, c-Jun N-terminal kinases (JNK), and extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK). The findings from an assay searching for the inhibitor revealed that SB203580 (a specific p38 inhibitor) or SP600125 (a p-JNK inhibitor) attenuated pratol-induced cellular tyrosinase activity whereas PD98059 (an ERK inhibitor) did not. Additionally, pratol interfered with the phosphorylation of p-AKT. We also found that pratol-induced melanogenesis was reversed by H89, which is a specific protein kinase A inhibitor. The results suggest that, owing to its multi-functional properties, pratol may be a potential tanning agent or a therapeutic agent for hair depigmentation in the cosmetic industry.