Flow cytometry as an alternative method to evaluate genotoxicity of natural cosmetic actives.

Alternative in vitro methods are important, as there is a call to ban the use of animals in cosmetics research. AIM: To suggest the expansion of the use of in vitro safety techniques recommended by the OECD guidelines and to propose the use of the automation of the in vitro mammalian micronucleus test method by flow cytometry to assess the genotoxic potential of Centella asiatica, Horse Chestnut, Witch Hazel, Blend, Ecoblend, and Caffeine extracts due to their widespread use in commercial products. METHODS: Flow cytometer analysis was performed using the Accuri™ C6 equipment and analyzed using the FlowJo software. Cytotoxicity tests followed OECD 129 guidelines and Phototoxicity followed OECD/GD 432 guidelines. RESULTS: The results showed that the cytotoxicity assay presented a decrease in cell viability when cells were exposed to Centella asiatica from a concentration of 5.0%, horse chestnut 2.5%, Witch hazel 2.5%, Blend 3.13%, and Caffeine 3%, while Ecoblend at the tested concentrations did not show cytotoxicity. In the phototoxicity test, the samples at the tested concentrations showed a PIF <2 being considered potentially non-phototoxic. Finally, in the genotoxicity automated assay, samples were considered potentially non-genotoxic. CONCLUSION: In vitro methods are of paramount importance for the development of pre-clinical tests and the use of test automation helps to reduce the time for analysis and dissemination of results, being a determining factor for the prospect of new compounds.

Recent Advances in Herbal-Derived Products with Skin Anti-Aging Properties and Cosmetic Applications.

Although aesthetic benefits are a desirable effect of the treatment of skin aging, it is also important in controlling several skin diseases, mainly in aged people. The development of new dermocosmetics has rapidly increased due to consumers' demand for non-invasive products with lower adverse effects than those currently available on the market. Natural compounds of plant origin and herbal-derived formulations have been popularized due to their various safe active products, which act through different mechanisms of action on several signaling pathways for skin aging. Based on this, the aim of the review was to identify the recent advances in herbal-derived product research, including herbal formulations and isolated compounds with skin anti-aging properties. The studies evaluated the biological effects of herbal-derived products in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies, highlighting the effects that were reported in clinical trials with available pharmacodynamics data that support their protective effects to treat, prevent, or control human skin aging. Thus, it was possible to identify that gallic and ferulic acids and herbal formulations containing Thymus vulgaris, Panax ginseng, Triticum aestivum, or Andrographis paniculata are the most promising natural products for the development of new dermocosmetics with skin anti-aging properties.

Modulation of autophagy by an innovative phytocosmetic preparation (Myrothamnus flabelifolia and Coffea arabica) in human fibroblasts and its effects in a clinical randomized placebo-controlled trial.

BACKGROUND: Autophagy is a natural and evolutionary mechanism that reduces cell toxic components and reutilizes metabolites to provide energy and renew cell function, which is linked to a wide range of age-related diseases, including those that affect the skin. Positive modulation of autophagy is useful to treat skin disorders and new active herbal products are potential candidates as autophagy modulators. AIMS: The present study aimed to evaluate the effects of a phytocosmetic formulation containing Myrothamnus flabellifolia leaf and Coffea arabica seed plant extracts (MflCas) on the ubiquitin-proteasome and autophagy markers in human dermal fibroblasts, and investigate its topical skin effects in a randomized, simple-blind, and placebo-controlled trial. METHODS: Human dermal fibroblasts were used to determine proteasome activity, protein carbonylation, LC3B protein, and lipofuscin production by luminescence and immune-enzymatic assays, and to determinate gene expression of autophagy biomarkers (Atg5, Atg7, EI24, EIF2A, Park2, foxo1, and mTOR) by RT-PCR. A clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of MflCas on the hand, face, and forearms skin features after treatment by 56 days. RESULTS: Topical treatment with MflCas improved several skin features of volunteers, mainly skin aging and pigmentation signals. On the hand skin, MflCas 2% after 56 days of treatment, reduced the spots length (30.8%), skin contrast (42.2%), and increased skin homogeneity (63.2%) and skin lightening effect (1.4%). On the face skin, topical treatment after 56 days reduced the spots length (21.5%), wrinkles area (8.1%), and wrinkles volume (5.6%) with an increment in face skin homogeneity (59.5%). These effects were related to the ability of MflCas to reduce proteasome activity protein carbonylation, and lipofuscin level, increase LC3B production, downregulate Atg7 and mTOR genes, and upregulate Park2 gene expressions. CONCLUSIONS: The phytocosmetic preparation containing Myrothamnus flabellifolia leaf and Coffea arabica seed modulated ubiquitin-proteasome and autophagy process, representing an innovative and safe herbal preparation to improve skin features, mainly acting as skin anti-aging and lightening agent.

A new phytocosmetic preparation from Thymus vulgaris stimulates adipogenesis and controls skin aging process: In vitro studies and topical effects in a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial.

BACKGROUND: The use of the injectable products for soft tissue augmentation and treatment of skin aging is an uncomfortable, invasive and related to several complications, and chronic reactions, mainly after long-term application. Efforts to develop new topically active anti-aging products with fewer adverse effects are a huge challenge that should be faced. AIMS: We evaluated the anti-aging effects of a phytocosmetic preparation containing Thymus vulgaris associated with lecithin (ThymLec) on the facial wrinkles, expression lines, and face oval remodeling using a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial and in vitro cell culture assays. METHODS: A clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of ThymLec 2% on the area, length, and depth of the perioral and crow's feet wrinkles, nasolabial and smile lines, as well as face oval remodeling in female volunteers using a sophisticated Bio3D Structured-light Scanner. In the in vitro studies using 3T3-L1 mouse embryonic fibroblasts, adiponectin was measured by immunoenzymatic assay, adipogenesis by the AdipoRed reagent method, and the PPAR-γ expression by RT-PCR analysis. RESULTS: Topical treatment with ThymLec 2% reduced facial wrinkles and expression lines promoting a face oval remodeling. In the in vitro studies, ThymLec upregulated the PPAR-γ expression increasing adiponectin production and stimulating the adipogenesis process. CONCLUSIONS: The phytocosmetic preparation containing Thymus vulgaris and lecithin is an innovative and safe topical anti-aging product promoting fat tissue augmentation by adipogenesis stimulation via the upregulation of PPAR-γ expression and adiponectin production.

Novel topical skin hydration agent containing Anadenanthera colubrina polysaccharide-standardized herbal preparation.

BACKGROUND: Hydration is an important factor to promote skin barrier function, metabolism, and appearance. In this process, the presence of aquaglyceroporins, envelope and lipid synthesis, and metabolism proteins are essential to provide greater corneocyte cohesion and to form a barrier avoiding transepidermal water loss. OBJECTIVE: We evaluated the effects of a new topical pigment-free agent containing an Anadenanthera colubrina polysaccharide-rich dermocosmetic preparation (ACP) on the aquaporin-3 (AQP-3), filaggrin (FLG), involucrin (INV), glucocerebrosidase (GBA), and elongation of very-long-chain fatty acid (ELOVL) proteins production in skin human fragments, as well as on the transepidermal water loss in a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial. METHODS: AQP3, FLG, INV, GBA, and ELOVL3 levels were measured by immunofluorescence analysis in human skin explants. Clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of ACP 1% and ACP 3% on the transepidermal water loss (TEWL). RESULTS: Image and statistical analysis showed that ACP 3% significantly increased at 90% the expression of AQP3. Similarly, ACP 3% was able to promote a significant increase of 68% and 51% in FLG and INV, respectively. ACP 3% produced no effects on the GBA and ELOVL3 proteins. Transepidermal water loss was significantly reduced in human volunteers under treatment with ACP 1% and ACP 3%. CONCLUSION: ACP reduced transepidermal water loss in a clinical trial, promoting human skin hydration. These effects were related to modulation of the AQP3, FLG, and INV as evidenced by immunofluorescence assay. This way, A colubrina polysaccharide-rich phytopharmaceutical preparation is an effective additive product to skin hydration.