The objective and subjective impact of a daily self-massage on visible signs of stress on the skin and emotional well-being.

INTRODUCTION: Currently, levels of stress, worry and sadness are increasing worldwide. Considered a part of healthcare, massage is associated with morphological, biological and psychological benefits. Little is known about using daily facial self-massage to improve skin quality and well-being. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the impact of a daily self-massage on the visible signs of stress on facial skin and well-being in women. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This open, prospective, clinical study was conducted in Paris, France. The visible signs of facial ageing were assessed with an objective 10-point scale and a subjective skin and well-being assessment with an online self-questionnaire. Each day for 2 weeks, participants performed a prescribed, 3-min self-massage routine at-home using a lubricant made of botanical oils. The prescribed massage included 14 gestures including stretching, flicking, deep typing, friction and smoothing on the face. RESULTS: Overall, 50 women, with Fitzpatrick skin type II or III, aged between 40 and 60 years were enrolled. Several statistically significant improvements on skin ageing signs were observed ptosis (p < 0.005, Student's t-test, -4.9%), fine lines (p < 0.0001 Student's t-test, -23.8%), plumpness (p < 0.005, Student's t-test, +4.4%) and radiance (p < 0.0001 Student's t-test, +16.7%). Subjective benefits were also declared. Most participants (>85%) agreed that their skin looks smoother, more bouncy and fine lines were reduced. Also, 100% of women declare that the massage boosts their feeling of well-being. CONCLUSION: This study showed that facial self-massage provided significant, visible clinical, and self-observed skin benefits, and feelings of well-being.

INTRODUCTION: Actuellement, les niveaux de stress, d'inquiétude et de tristesse augmentent dans le monde entier. Considéré comme faisant partie des soins de santé, le massage est associé à des bénéfices morphologiques, biologiques et psychologiques. On sait peu de choses sur l'automassage quotidien du visage pour améliorer la qualité et le bien-être de la peau. OBJECTIF: Évaluer l'impact de l'automassage quotidien sur les signes visibles de stress sur la peau du visage et le bien-être des femmes. MATÉRIEL ET MÉTHODES: Cette étude clinique en ouvert, prospective a été menée à Paris, en France. Les signes visibles du vieillissement facial ont été évalués à l'aide d'une échelle objective de 10 points, et d'une évaluation subjective de la peau et du bien-être à l'aide d'un auto-questionnaire en ligne. Chaque jour pendant 2 semaines, les participantes ont réalisé chez elles une routine d'automassage prescrite de 3 minutes en utilisant un lubrifiant à base d'huiles végétales. Le massage prescrit comprenait 14 gestes, dont des étirements, des mouvements de va-et-vient, des tapotements profonds, des frottements et un lissage du visage. RÉSULTATS: 50 femmes âgées de 40 à 60 ans ayant un phototype de peau II ou III selon la classification de Fitzpatrick ont été incluses. Plusieurs améliorations statistiquement significatives des signes du vieillissement cutané ont été observées: ptose (p < 0,005, test de Student: -4,9 %), ridules (p < 0,0001, test de Student: -23,8 %), raffermissement (p < 0,005, test de Student: +4,4 %) et éclat du teint (p < 0,0001, test de Student: +16,7 %). Des bénéfices subjectifs ont également été signalés. La plupart des participantes (> 85 %) étaient d'accord pour dire que leur peau avait un aspect plus lisse, plus souple, et que les ridules étaient réduites. De plus, 100 % des femmes déclarent que le massage stimule leur sensation de bien-être. CONCLUSION: Cette étude a montré que l'automassage du visage apportait des bénéfices cutanés cliniques et auto-observés significatifs et visibles, ainsi qu'un sentiment de bien-être.

Analysis of images supplied by Skincam® can record the changes of some scar features that occur over time. Comparisons with the assessments of dermatologist and patients' perception.

OBJECTIVE: The objective of the study was to assess in vivo the validity of a new imaging device in quantifying the scarring process over time and to compare its data with the expertise of dermatologist and patients' self-appraisals. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A total of 37 Korean women, aged 20-50 year, with closed scars of different types, were enrolled after a dermatological evaluation. All subjects applied daily a hydrating cream on their scars for 2 months. Images of scars at different times (Day 0, Day 28, and Day 56) were taken and further analyzed, yielding various parameters such as color, luminance, size, volume, and depth of each scar. A dermatologist visually graded, at each time point, the clinical aspect of the scar, and patients were asked to answer to some questions dealing with their self-examination of their scar. RESULTS: The changes in some scar features that occurred during the application period were quantified and statistically differed from the D0 baseline value. Scars became of reduced size, lighter (Increased luminance), less red, less deep, and less voluminous. Some of these parameters (volume, lightness, smoothness, texture regularity) were statistically different at D28 whereas some others (area, depth, redness) showed significant changes at D56 . Dermatologist expertise and patients' assessments were in high agreement. CONCLUSION: This methodological approach that uses a dedicated camera associated with image analysis, despite some inherent limits (size of the scar), appears as a valuable aid to surgeons in the management of scars, in the follow-up of a given procedure or treatment. Beyond scar management, this approach may be extended to other skin disorders such as acne.

Hyaluronic acid skin penetration evaluated by tape stripping using ELISA kit assay.

Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is an endogenous skin matrix component with moisturizing and anti-inflammatory and healing properties. Cosmetic formulations containing HA aim to enhance skin structure, hydrate skin and reduce wrinkles. Therefore, the skin diffusion of HA into stratum corneum after application of a formulation containing two different size of HA, High Molecular weight (HMW-HA) and Low Molecular Weight (LMW-HA)) was evaluated. Ex vivo human skin samples were used to validate an ELISA assay measuring HA in the stratum corneum (SC), viable epidermis and dermis, and to identify optimal washing and extraction methods. These methods were used to measure HA levels in the SC of subjects before and after daily topical application of an HA-containing formulation for 7 days. Samples of SC (5 tape strips) were taken before and 2 h after the application on D0, D1 and D7. The ELISA assay was suitable for measuring HA in the SC but not epidermal or dermal layers. The upper and lower limits of quantitation were the same for both sizes of HA (200 and 3.1 ng/ml, respectively). In both ex vivo human skin and human volunteers, the "dry method" of removing the formulation led to much higher levels of HA in the SC samples, whereas the "wet method" involving one cotton swab soaked with an aqueous solution containing 10% soap and a second cotton swab for drying, was effective in removing the formulation and more relevant to simulate washing/showering. In the clinical study, the amount of HA in SC layers 3-5 were used to represent the HA level in the SC, whereas layers 1 and 2 were considered as surface "residual film". After each application, there was a significantly higher amount of HA compared to the amount before application, which was observed using both wash methods. The residual level 24 h after the first application was at least 8 times higher than before the first application and at least 31 times higher after 7 applications. In conclusion, these investigations validated the use of the ELISA method for the measurement of HA in SC samples. The ex vivo experiments provided recommendations for the clinical study, including the preferred cleansing and optimal sampling methods. The clinical study demonstrated the diffusion, accumulation and maintenance of HA levels in the SC after repeated application of the formulation containing HMW-HA and LMW-HA.

Comparing the self-perceived effects of a facial anti-aging product to those automatically detected from selfie images of Chinese women of different ages and cities.

OBJECTIVE: To assess the agreement, after 1-month application of a popular and efficient anti-aging product, between self-perceived facial signs of aging and those detected and graded by an automatic A.I-based system, using smartphones' selfie images. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Of 1065 Chinese women, aged 18-60 years, from eight different Chinese cities were recruited. They were asked to apply daily, for 1 month, a referential anti-aging product onto their whole face. Selfie images were taken by all subjects at D0 and D28 and sent to our facilities for being analyzed through 10 different facial signs. At D28 , all subjects were asked to fill a questionnaire on the status of their faces, through six general statements. RESULTS: A global agreement between both approaches is reached, particularly among women older than 40 years where the severity of facial signs is already more pronounced or among younger women who present at least facial signs scored above one grading units. This limit becomes, therefore, a prerequisite in the recruitment of Chinese subjects in the case of anti-aging applied studies and possible automatically based on automatic grading system. When respecting such conditions, the positive effects of the product on most facial signs can be demonstrated after 28 days of successive applications. CONCLUSION: Such methodological approach paves the road in fulfilling the need of consumers of a better transparency in the claims of an anti-aging product.

A preliminary study to understand the effects of mask on tinted face cosmetics.

BACKGROUND: The recent COVID-19 pandemic has generalized the use of face mask in public area, and it is now common to wear it for long hours. But face mask interfere with cosmetics, and key concerns for tinted products are staining of the mask and degradation on face. Consumers have modified beauty routine by a decrease of makeup, but are now expecting new products adapted to face mask. Little is known about the mechanisms that affect most the makeup under the face mask, so that further studies are needed to develop adequate evaluation methods and products. In this study, the color transfer on mask and makeup degradation on face are assessed through a mixed approach of consumer and instrumental evaluation. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Two tinted face products (A and B) were applied by half face on 11 Japanese women, who conducted real-life activities with a face mask during 4 hours. Panelists evaluated the stain of their face mask by visual assessment, while the makeup degradation on face was evaluated by color measurement by instrumental method. RESULTS: No difference was observed between the two products for lasting on face, but consumer evaluation showed a better resistance of product A for color transfer on mask. CONCLUSION: The mix of instrumental and consumer evaluation is a promising way to evaluate the makeup degradation on face and color transfer on mask, which are two key factors to develop mask resistant makeup products.