Evaluation of Physicochemical and Microbial Properties of Extracts from Wine Lees Waste of Matelica's Verdicchio and Their Applications in Novel Cosmetic Products.

Wine lees are sediments deposited on the walls and bottom of barrels resulting from wine fermentation and mainly consist of yeasts. Saccharomyces cerevisiae extracts, rich in beneficial components for the skin, have already been used in cosmesis, while wine lees have not been well exploited by the cosmetics industry yet. The aim of this work was the full characterization of the wine lees from Verdicchio's wine, with the aim to exploit it as a beneficial ingredient in new cosmetic products. After mapping the microbial composition of the sample waste, the parameters for the sonication extraction process were optimized and the physicochemical properties of the extract were analyzed. The efficiency of the aqueous extraction-and in particular the yeast cell lysis necessary for the release of proteins from the cell-was assessed by evaluating cell shape and size, and protein release, under scanning electron microscopy (SEM), dynamic light scattering (DLS) and Bradford's protein assays. Thus, the total phenol content and antioxidant capacity of the supernatant recovered from native and sonicated lees were determined by Folin-Ciocalteu's and spectrophotometric assays, respectively. To quantify the heavy metals and highlight the presence of microelements beneficial for the skin, inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) was applied. In vitro metabolic activity and cytotoxicity were tested on both HaCat keratinocytes and human gingival fibroblasts, showing that wine lees are safe for skin's cells. The results show that sonicated lees appear to be more interesting than native ones as a consequence of the release of the active ingredients from the cells. Due to the high antioxidant capacity, content of beneficial elements for skin and an appropriate microbiologic profile, wine lees were included in five new solid cosmetic products and tested for challenge test, compatibility with human skin, sensory analysis, trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and sebometry.

Chemical, Antioxidant, and Antimicrobial Properties of the Peel and Male Flower By-Products of Four Varieties of Punica granatum L. Cultivated in the Marche Region for Their Use in Cosmetic Products.

We are now seeing an increase in the production of agri-food waste, which is an essential resource for the recovery of bioactive compounds that may be employed as innovative natural ingredients in cosmetics. To date, the approach to cosmetics preservation has seen a significant shift in the search for biological components that give healthier alternatives for customers and help businesses operate in an environmentally friendly manner. To achieve this goal, we studied pomegranate extracts using the peel and, for the first time, extracts from the male flowers of a wide pomegranate variety cultivated in the Marche region, specifically, the Wonderful, Mollar de Elche, Parfianka, and less-studied G1 varieties. We studied the phenol compounds profile, antioxidant capacity, antimicrobial activity, and cell viability of the obtained pomegranate extracts. The identification and quantification of phenol compounds belonging to different classes, such as hydrolysable tannins, hydroxybenzoic acid, hydroxycinnamic acid, dihydroflavonol, gallocatechin, and anthocyanins, were performed using UPLC-ESI-MS/MS. Punicalagin isomers and punicalin resulted in the most abundant polyphenols found in the peel and male flower extracts. Mollar de Elche 2020 peel extract revealed a high concentration of punicalagin A and B (7206.4 mg/kg and 5812.9), while the content of gallic acid revealed high results in the G1 and Parfianka varieties. All extracts were spectrophotometrically analysed to determine their total phenol content (TPC) using the Folin-Ciocalteu method and their antioxidant capacity (AC). In terms of the total phenol obtained by the Folin-Ciocalteu colorimetric method, Mollar de Elche 2020 extracts reported the highest TPC content of 12.341 µmol GAE/g. Results revealed that the Mollar de Elche and Wonderful 2020 peel extracts demonstrated the highest TPC and AC. Furthermore, AC results indicated that the peel extracts displayed higher AC than the male flower extract due to the high punicalagin content detected by UPLC analysis. The antimicrobial activity testing revealed that the Wonderful and G1 2020 peel extracts resulted active against Escherichia coli, while all extracts exhibited promising anticandidal activity. Additionally, the cytocompatibility was evaluated in keratinocytes HaCaT cells by testing concentrations of pomegranate extracts ranging from 0.15 to 5.00 mg/mL. Extracts were non-toxic for the cells in the tested concentration range. The acquired results may help exploit pomegranate agri-food waste products provided by the Marche region's short supply chain for their use as an antimicrobial and antioxidant booster in the formulation of cosmetic products.

Optimization of the Extraction from Spent Coffee Grounds Using the Desirability Approach.

The purpose of this work was the optimization of the extraction from spent coffee grounds, specifically 100% Arabica coffee blends, using a desirability approach. Spent coffees were recovered after the preparation of the espresso coffee under the typical conditions used in coffee bars with a professional machine. Spent coffee was subjected to different extraction procedures in water: by changing the extraction temperature (60, 80, or 100 °C) and the solvent extraction volume (10, 20, 30 mL for 1 gram of coffee) and by maintaining constant the extraction time (30 minutes). The ranges of the process parameters, as well as the solvent to be used, were established by running preliminary experiments not reported here. The variables of interest for the experimental screening design were the content of caffeine, trigonelline, and nicotinic acid, quantitatively determined from regression lines of standard solutions of known concentrations by a validated HPLC-VWD method. Since solvent extraction volumes and temperatures were revealed to be the most significant process variables, for the optimization of the extraction process, an approach based on Response Surface Methodology (RSM) was considered. In particular, a Box-Wilson Central Composite Design, commonly named central composite design (CCD), was used to find the optimal conditions of the extraction process. Moreover, the desirability approach was then applied to maximize the extraction efficiency by searching the optimal values (or at least the best compromise solution) for all three response variables simultaneously. Successively, the best extract, obtained in a volume of 20 mL of water at an extraction temperature of 80 °C, was analyzed for total phenol content (TPC) through the Folin-Ciocalteu assay, and the antioxidant capacities (AC) through the trolox equivalent (TE) antioxidant capacity (DPPH), ferric-ion reducing antioxidant parameter (FRAP), and radical cation scavenging activity and reducing power (ABTS). The TPC and the AC for spent coffee were high and comparable to the results obtained in previous similar studies. Then, the extract was evaluated by inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (ICP-MS), revealing that potassium was the most abundant element, followed by phosphorus, magnesium, calcium, sodium, and sulfur, while very low content in heavy metals was observed. Preliminary in vitro assays in keratinocyte HaCaT cells were carried out to assess the safety, in terms of cytotoxicity of spent coffee, and results showed that cell viability depends on the extract concentration: cell viability is unmodified up to a concentration of 0.3 mg/mL, over which it becomes cytotoxic for the cells. Spent coffee extract at 0.03 and 0.3 mg/mL showed the ability to reduce intracellular reactive oxygen species formation induced by hydrogen peroxide in HaCaT cells, suggesting its antioxidant activity at intracellular levels.

Quantification of phenolic compounds in different types of crafts beers, worts, starting and spent ingredients by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry.

An accurate quantification of phenolic compounds present in several kind of craft beers, corresponding worts, ingredients and spent products was performed by LC-MS/MS in this study. The dilution 1:2 of the sample with the mobile phase gave the best results, offering a very fast and simple method to reduce the matrix effect. A validated method was applied to six different types of craft beers, their worts, starting and spent products, such as barley malts and barley husks, starting hops and spent hops, and finally, starting yeast and spent yeasts to quantify the selected phenolic compounds. The Total Phenol Content (TPC) of barley malts is not negligible and it results almost prevalently due to trans-p-coumaric acid, which ranges from 76.4 µg/Kg for Mais to 672.6 µg/Kg for Munich. The trans-p-coumaric acid is transferred to the worts during the must preparation and is responsible for the not negligible TPC of worts, that was between 131.1 µg/Kg for Ego to 2041.6 µg/Kg for Alter beer. Bitter acids and prenylflavonoids are mainly present in the starting hops (TPC 323.8 µg/Kg and TPC 500.3 for Saaz and Perle hops, respectively). Their concentration strongly decreases in the spent hops where the TPC ranges between 8.0 µg/Kg for Triplo Malto to 24.4 µg/Kg for Alter, suggesting that they are transferred to the intermediate of production. Phenolic compounds, originally present in the starting barley malts and hops, are limitedly present into the final beers, and their TPC ranges approximately from 65.6 µg/Kg for Fiat lux to 105.3 µg/Kg for Alter. Actually, most phenolic compounds are absorbed into the yeast added for the fermentation, as it is clearly evident from the observation that spent yeasts contain a higher phenolic compounds amount with the respect to the starting yeast, and several phenolic compounds, in particular those coming from hops, are originally absent into the yeast and are only present in the spent ones.

Chitin and Chitosans: Characteristics, Eco-Friendly Processes, and Applications in Cosmetic Science.

Huge amounts of chitin and chitosans can be found in the biosphere as important constituents of the exoskeleton of many organisms and as waste by worldwide seafood companies. Presently, politicians, environmentalists, and industrialists encourage the use of these marine polysaccharides as a renewable source developed by alternative eco-friendly processes, especially in the production of regular cosmetics. The aim of this review is to outline the physicochemical and biological properties and the different bioextraction methods of chitin and chitosan sources, focusing on enzymatic deproteinization, bacteria fermentation, and enzymatic deacetylation methods. Thanks to their biodegradability, non-toxicity, biocompatibility, and bioactivity, the applications of these marine polymers are widely used in the contemporary manufacturing of biomedical and pharmaceutical products. In the end, advanced cosmetics based on chitin and chitosans are presented, analyzing different therapeutic aspects regarding skin, hair, nail, and oral care. The innovative formulations described can be considered excellent candidates for the prevention and treatment of several diseases associated with different body anatomical sectors.

Formation, Physicochemical Characterization, and Thermodynamic Stability of the Amorphous State of Drugs and Excipients.

Drugs and excipients used for pharmaceutical applications generally exist in the solid (crystalline or amorphous) state, more rarely as liquid materials. In some cases, according to the physicochemical nature of the molecule, or as a consequence of specific technological processes, a compound may exist exclusively in the amorphous state. In other cases, as a consequence of specific treatments (freezing and spray drying, melting and co-melting, grinding and compression), the crystalline form may convert into a completely or partially amorphous form. An amorphous material shows physical and thermodynamic properties different from the corresponding crystalline form, with profound repercussions on its technological performance and biopharmaceutical properties. Several physicochemical techniques such as X-ray powder diffraction, thermal methods of analysis, spectroscopic techniques, gravimetric techniques, and inverse gas chromatography can be applied to characterize the amorphous form of a compound (drug or excipient), and to evaluate its thermodynamic stability. This review offers a survey of the technologies used to convert a crystalline solid into an amorphous form, and describes the most important techniques for characterizing the amorphous state of compounds of pharmaceutical interest.

SPME-GC-MS analysis of commercial henna samples (Lawsonia inermis L.).

The aim of this work was to provide a characterisation of volatile constituents from different commercial batches of henna (Lawsonia inermis) leaves of different geographic origin. Headspace solid-phase microextraction (HS-SPME) coupled with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) was used for the purpose. A total of 72 components were identified by GC-MS in the headspace of different henna samples which proved to differ considerably from each other, because they were characterised by different classes of components, mainly aliphatic compounds (9.0-64.7%), terpenoids (5.8-45.5%) and aromatics (7.9-45.2%), with alkanes (0.9-18.5%), aldehydes (2.1-18.8%) and carboxylic acids (3.1-29.3%), monoterpenes (3.4-30.0%) and sesquiterpenes (0.8-23.7%) and phenyl propanoids (0.6-43.1%), being the most abundant, respectively. Major representatives of these groups were n-hexadecane (0.5-4.7%), (2E)-hexenal (0.5-11.7%) and acetic acid (2.8-24.5%), limonene (0.8-14.7%), carvol (3.8-7.1%), geranyl acetone (1.4-7.9%) and (E)-caryophyllene (3.3-8.4%), and (E)-anethole (0.6-35.0%), respectively. We assume that factors such as the manufacturing process, the storage conditions and the different geographic origin of the samples may contribute to such variability.