Hesperidin, Hesperetin, Rutinose, and Rhamnose Act as Skin Anti-Aging Agents.

Aging is a complex physiological process that can be accelerated by chemical (high blood glucose levels) or physical (solar exposure) factors. It is accompanied by the accumulation of altered molecules in the human body. The accumulation of oxidatively modified and glycated proteins is associated with inflammation and the progression of chronic diseases (aging). The use of antiglycating agents is one of the recent approaches in the preventive strategy of aging and natural compounds seem to be promising candidates. Our study focused on the anti-aging effect of the flavonoid hesperetin, its glycoside hesperidin and its carbohydrate moieties rutinose and rhamnose on young and physiologically aged normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). The anti-aging activity of the test compounds was evaluated by measuring matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and inflammatory interleukins by ELISA. The modulation of elastase, hyaluronidase, and collagenase activity by the tested substances was evaluated spectrophotometrically by tube tests. Rutinose and rhamnose inhibited the activity of pure elastase, hyaluronidase, and collagenase. Hesperidin and hesperetin inhibited elastase and hyaluronidase activity. In skin aging models, MMP-1 and MMP-2 levels were reduced after application of all tested substances. Collagen I production was increased after the application of rhamnose and rutinose.

Photoprotective properties of new derivatives of kinetin.

The chronic exposure of skin to ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes adverse dermal reactions, such as erythema, sunburn, photoaging, and cancer, by altering several signalling pathways associated with oxidative stress, inflammation, and DNA damage. One of the possible UV light protection strategies is the use of dermal photoprotective preparations. The plant hormone kinetin (N6-furfuryladenine; KIN) exhibits antioxidant and anti-senescent effects in human cells. Topically applied KIN also reduced some of the clinical signs of photodamaged skin. To improve the biological activities of KIN, several derivatives have been recently prepared and their beneficial effects on cell viability of skin cells exposed to UVA and UVB light were screened. Two potent candidates, 6-(tetrahydrofuran-2-yl)methylamino-9-(tetrahydrofuran-2-yl)purine (HEO) and 6-(thiophen-2-yl)methylamino-9-(tetrahydrofuran-2-yl)purine (HEO6), were identified. Here the effects of KIN, its N9-substituted derivatives the tetrahydropyran-2-yl derivative of KIN (THP), tetrahydrofuran-2-yl KIN (THF), HEO and HEO6 (both THF derivatives) on oxidative stress, apoptosis and inflammation in UVA- or UVB-exposed skin cell was investigated. Human primary dermal fibroblasts and human keratinocytes HaCaT pre-treated with the tested compounds were then exposed to UVA/UVB light using a solar simulator. All compounds effectively prevented UVA-induced ROS generation and glutathione depletion in both cells. HEO6 was found to be the most potent. All compounds also reduced UVB-induced caspase-3 activity and interleukin-6 release. THP and THF exhibited the best UVB protection. In conclusion, our results demonstrated the UVA- and UVB-photoprotective potential of KIN and its derivatives. From this point of view, they seem to be useful agents for full UV spectrum protective dermatological preparations.

Antioxidant function of phytocannabinoids: Molecular basis of their stability and cytoprotective properties under UV-irradiation.

In this contribution, a comprehensive study of the redox transformation, electronic structure, stability and photoprotective properties of phytocannabinoids is presented. The non-psychotropic cannabidiol (CBD), cannabigerol (CBG), cannabinol (CBN), cannabichromene (CBC), and psychotropic tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) isomers and iso-THC were included in the study. The results show that under aqueous ambient conditions at pH 7.4, non-psychotropic cannabinoids are slight or moderate electron-donors and they are relatively stable, in the following order: CBD > CBG ≥ CBN > CBC. In contrast, psychotropic Δ9-THC degrades approximately one order of magnitude faster than CBD. The degradation (oxidation) is associated with the transformation of OH groups and changes in the double-bond system of the investigated molecules. The satisfactory stability of cannabinoids is associated with the fact that their OH groups are fully protonated at pH 7.4 (pKa is ≥ 9). The instability of CBN and CBC was accelerated after exposure to UVA radiation, with CBD (or CBG) being stable for up to 24 h. To support their topical applications, an in vitro dermatological comparative study of cytotoxic, phototoxic and UVA or UVB photoprotective effects using normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and keratinocytes (HaCaT) was done. NHDF are approx. twice as sensitive to the cannabinoids' toxicity as HaCaT. Specifically, toxicity IC50 values for CBD after 24 h of incubation are 7.1 and 12.8 µM for NHDF and HaCaT, respectively. None of the studied cannabinoids were phototoxic. Extensive testing has shown that CBD is the most effective protectant against UVA radiation of the studied cannabinoids. For UVB radiation, CBN was the most effective. The results acquired could be used for further redox biology studies on phytocannabinoids and evaluations of their mechanism of action at the molecular level. Furthermore, the UVA and UVB photoprotectivity of phytocannabinoids could also be utilized in the development of new cannabinoid-based topical preparations.

Ultraviolet A protective potential of plant extracts and phytochemicals.

Chronic exposure to solar radiation is related to an increased incidence of various skin disorders, including premature skin aging and melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers. Ultraviolet (UV) photons in particular are responsible for skin damage. Solar UV photons mainly belong to UVA wavebands, however UVA radiation has been mostly ignored for a long time. At the cellular level, UVA photons mainly provoke indirect oxidative damage to biomolecules via the massive generation of unstable and highly reactive compounds. Human skin has several effective mechanisms that forestall, repair and eliminate damage caused by solar radiation. Regardless, some damage persists and can accumulate with chronic exposure. Therefore, conscious protection against solar radiation (UVB+UVA) is necessary. Besides traditional types of photoprotection such as sunscreen use, new strategies are being searched for and developed. One very popular protective strategy is the application of phytochemicals as active ingredients of photoprotection preparations instead of synthetic chemicals. Phytochemicals usually possess additional biological activities besides absorbing the energy of photons, and those properties (e.g. antioxidant, anti-inflammatory) magnify the protective potential of phytochemicals and extracts. Therefore, compounds of natural origin are in the interest of researchers as well as developers. In this review, only studies on UVA protection with well-documented experimental conditions are summarized. This article includes 17 well standardized plant extracts (Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze, Silybum marianum L. Gaertn., Punica granatum L., Polypodium aureum L., Vaccinium myrtillus L., Lonicera caerulea L., Thymus vulgaris L., Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill., Morinda citrifolia L., Aloe vera (L.) Burm.f., Oenothera paradoxa Hudziok, Galinsoga parviflora Cav., Galinsoga quadriradiata Ruiz et Pavón, Hippophae rhamnoides L., Cola acuminata Schott & Endl., Theobroma cacao L. and Amaranthus cruentus L.) and 26 phytochemicals.