Microalgae-based sunscreens as green and sustainable cosmetic products.

Recently, microalgal biotechnology has attained great acceptance among various researchers and industries for the green and sustainable production of different bioactive compounds. They provide multiple metabolites and molecules, making them an ideal candidate for cosmetic formulators and cosmeceutical companies. Nevertheless, numerous microalgae strains have never been studied for their pharmaceutical, nutritional and cosmeceutical purposes. Even less, only some have been cultivated on a large scale for bioactive compound production. Here, we have studied the cosmetic and cosmeceutical potentials of different microalgal strains for sunscreen as adjuvants and boosters in a green, carbon-neutral and sustainable platform. Other bioactive compounds were exploited, and the available products in the market and the published patents were also reviewed. From our review, it will be possible to combine the fundamental and practical aspects of microalgal biotechnology toward a greener and more sustainable future for the cosmetic/cosmeceutical areas of the photoprotection scenario.

Récemment, la biotechnologie des microalgues a été très bien accueillie par divers chercheurs et industries pour la production écologique et durable de différents composés bioactifs. Elles fournissent de multiples métabolites et molécules, ce qui en fait un candidat idéal pour les formulateurs de produits cosmétiques et les entreprises de cosmétique. Néanmoins, de nombreuses souches de microalgues n'ont jamais été étudiées à des fins pharmaceutiques, nutritionnelles et cosmétiques. De plus, seules quelques­unes ont été cultivées à grande échelle pour la production de composés bioactifs. Ici, nous avons étudié les potentiels cosmétiques et cosméceutiques de différentes souches de microalgues pour les écrans solaires en tant qu'adjuvants et boosters dans une plateforme verte, neutre en carbone et durable. D'autres composés bioactifs ont été exploités, et les produits disponibles sur le marché ainsi que les brevets publiés ont également été examinés. À partir de notre étude, il sera possible de combiner les aspects fondamentaux et pratiques de la biotechnologie microalgale en vue d'un avenir plus vert et plus durable pour les domaines cosmétiques/cosméceutiques en photoprotection.

Antiaging, Brightening, and Antioxidant Efficacy of Fermented Bilberry Extract (Vaccinium myrtillus): A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial.

Strategies for successful aging, including the use of food supplements, are part of the approach to support skin youthfulness. To demonstrate the efficacy of fermented bilberry extract (FBE) against skin aging and uneven complexion, a clinical trial was carried out on 66 subjects with visible "crow's feet" wrinkles, mild-to-moderate skin slackness, and uneven skin tone. The wrinkle depth, skin smoothness (Ra) and roughness (Rz), skin firmness (R0) and elasticity (R2), skin coloration (ITA°), and skin antioxidant capacity were measured before and after 28 (D28), 56 (D56), and 84 (D84) days of product use (either FBE or a placebo). These parameters were also integrated with a clinical evaluation, carried out by a dermatologist, and a self-assessment questionnaire to align the measured efficacy with the visual or perceived efficacy. At D84, the wrinkle depth had decreased by 10.6%, Ra had improved by 7.9%, Rz had decreased by 7.3%, R0 had improved by 13.3%, R2 had improved by 12.4%, and skin antioxidant capacity had increased by 20.8%. ITA° increased by 20.8% and was accompanied by a decrease in the skin's redness component by 16.8% and an increase in the lightness component by 2.2%. The variation of all the above-mentioned parameters was statistically significant between the FBE and PL groups. Our findings demonstrate the efficacy of FBE in improving skin aging and complexion evenness.

Diet and skin health: The good and the bad.

The skin protects humans from pathogens, ultraviolet light, chemicals, mechanical, thermal, and physical injuries as well as hazardous substances. Other important roles of the skin include the regulation of several important physiological processes of the body, sensing stimuli, synthesis of vitamin D, and immune surveillance. However, aging, diseases and environmental conditions significantly change the skin's behavior and functioning. The treatment and prevention strategies for various skin diseases especially photoaging usually include topical treatment with medical cosmetology, active ingredients and other physical means of photoprotection. In recent times, however, there is an increasing consciousness about the role of diet and nutrition in skin health with certain dietary components emerging as an adequate alternative approach to alleviate and prevent both endogenous and exogenous aging symptoms. Therefore, this narrative review uniquely discusses the basic structure of the skin and also addresses common dermatological signs of damaged skin, the impacts of unhealthy diet habits on the skin, and the beneficial effects of some healthy diet habits on skin health. The information and data were collated from various literature databases and resources such as Science Direct, PubMed, Wiley, Springer, Taylor and Francis, Inflibnet, Scopus, Google, and Google Scholar using relevant keywords Medical Subject Headings (MeSH). In conclusion, diet and nutrition play essential roles in the optimum functioning of the human body, including the skin. Thus, certain diet habits such as less water intake, high-fat diet, refined sugar, and certain food additives are unhealthy and harmful to the skin while alternative healthy diet habits such as adequate water intake; consumption of antioxidants and polyphenolic-rich fruits, vegetables, nuts, and legumes; a low glycemic index diet; probiotics; and phytoestrogens should be adopted to enhance skin health.

Efficacy of a wheat polar lipid complex in reducing hair loss and improving hair growth in healthy women: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study.

OBJECTIVE: Hair loss is a major source of psychological distress for affected people. Safe and natural ingredients are therefore needed to help reduce hair loss and stimulate hair growth. This pilot clinical study aimed at exploring the efficacy of a wheat polar lipid complex (WPLC, Ceramosides™), containing sphingolipids and digalactosyl diglycerides, on hair characteristics improvement in women showing acute hair shedding. METHODS: Sixty-six women presenting a proportion of hair in the telogen phase greater than 15% were recruited and allocated to two groups, each including at least 10 postmenopausal women. For 84 days, participants consumed 30 mg/day of the WPLC supplement, or the placebo. Their hair characteristics were assessed after 56 and 84 days using phototrichogram evaluations of hairs in anagen/telogen phases, measuring hair shedding by a pull test, hair diameter and elongation at break point, hair growth and scalp sebum content. Hair density and volume were also clinically evaluated. All these parameters were also investigated in the subgroup of postmenopausal women. RESULTS: WPLC supplementation decreased telogen hair density/proportion while increasing the anagen hair density/proportion. These effects were significant compared with the placebo as early as within 56 days. It also led to reduced hair shedding upon pull test analyses. If no changes were evidenced in hair diameter, WPLC improved hair growth and resistance to breakage after 84 days. Clinical evaluations also showed hair density and volume improvement. Furthermore, supplementation decreased scalp sebum content in women with oily hair. The beneficial effects were also observed in the subgroup of postmenopausal women. Finally, WPLC supplementation improved participants' perception of their hair conditions. CONCLUSION: Through a reducing effect on hair shedding and a stimulating effect on hair reappearance and growth, WPLC dietary supplementation was shown to significantly reduce hair loss in women.

OBJECTIF: La chute de cheveux est une source importante de détresse psychologique pour les personnes concernées. Des ingrédients naturels et sûrs sont nécessaires pour permettre de réduire la chute et stimuler la croissance des cheveux. Cette étude clinique pilote avait pour objectif d'étudier la capacité d'un complexe de lipides polaires extraits du blé (WPLC), composé de sphingolipides et de digalactosyl diglycerides, à améliorer la qualité des cheveux chez des femmes présentant une chute de cheveux diffuse et aiguë. MÉTHODES: Soixante­six femmes présentant un taux de cheveux en phase télogène supérieur à 15% ont été recrutées et séparées en deux groupes, chacun comprenant au moins dix femmes ménopausées. Pendant 84 jours, les volontaires ont consommé le supplément à une dose de 30 mg/jour, ou le placebo. Leur chevelure a été évaluée après 56 et 84 jours de supplémentation en quantifiant les cheveux en phase anagène/télogène grâce à un phototrichogramme, en évaluant la chute de cheveux grâce à un test de traction, en mesurant le diamètre, l'élongation et la croissance des cheveux, et en quantifiant le taux de sébum du cuir chevelu. La densité et le volume de la chevelure ont été évalués cliniquement. Tous ces paramètres ont également été analysés dans le sous­groupe de femmes ménopausées. RÉSULTATS: Une diminution de la densité et de la proportion des cheveux en phase télogène a été observée, en association avec une augmentation de la densité et de la proportion des cheveux en phase anagène. Ces résultats sont statistiquement significatifs en comparaison avec le placebo, et ce, dès 56 jours. La chute de cheveux, mesurée par le test de traction, a également été significativement réduite. Bien qu'aucun changement n'ait été observé concernant le diamètre des cheveux, le supplément a amélioré la résistance à la casse et la croissance des cheveux après 84 jours d'utilisation. L'évaluation clinique a montré une amélioration de la densité et du volume de la chevelure. De plus, la supplémentation a entraîné une réduction du taux de sébum du cuir chevelu chez les femmes présentant des cheveux à tendance grasse. Les effets bénéfiques de la supplémentation ont également été observés dans le sous­groupe des femmes ménopausées. Enfin, la prise du supplément a également été associée à une amélioration de la perception des volontaires concernant la qualité de leurs cheveux. CONCLUSION: Grâce à un effet réducteur sur la chute de cheveux et un effet stimulateur sur la repousse et la croissance des cheveux, cette étude a démontré l'efficacité de la supplémentation nutritionnelle avec WPLC à atténuer la perte de cheveux chez la femme.

Dietary supplementation with a wheat polar lipid complex improves skin conditions in women with dry skin and mild-to-moderate skin aging.

BACKGROUND: Aging, menopause, and seasonal changes alter the lipid composition of the outermost skin layer, the stratum corneum, resulting in dry and itchy skin. AIMS: This clinical trial aimed at evaluating the effects of a wheat polar lipid complex (WPLC) on skin characteristics in women showing dry and wrinkled skin, investigating its effects in a subgroup of postmenopausal women, and assessing if benefits were maintained after supplementation. METHODS: Seventy-two women with dry and wrinkled skin were recruited in this double-blind, randomized, parallel-group study, and allocated to three groups of 24 subjects, each including at least 10 postmenopausal women. For 56 days, subjects consumed the WPLC supplement (oil or powder), or the placebo. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), elasticity, and profilometry were evaluated at baseline, after 14, 28, and 56 days of supplementation, and 56 days after the end of supplementation. Additionally, a lipidomic analysis was performed to examine changes in superficial skin layers over 56 days. RESULTS: Dietary supplementation with WPLC rapidly improved all parameters. It increased skin hydration, smoothness, and elasticity while decreasing TEWL, roughness, and wrinkle depth after only 14 days of supplementation. These effects were also observed in the subpopulation of postmenopausal women and led to an improved self-perception of skin. For all the parameters, outcomes were not maintained after the supplementation was stopped. The lipidomic analysis revealed 10 compounds evolving over the 56 days of WPLC supplementation. CONCLUSION: WPLC supplementation improved skin hydration, smoothness, elasticity, and wrinkledness within 14 days and, as expected, did not last after supplementation was stopped.

Clinical Studies on Topical Curcumin.

BACKGROUND: Curcumin is a polyphenolic compound present in turmeric (Curcuma longa). Curcumin, turmeric powder, and extracts are widely used in traditional Indian medicine and are active ingredients of dietary supplements and cosmeceutical products. The pharmacological properties of curcumin/turmeric as well as the studies performed in vitro, in animal models, and in volunteers have been the objects of a vast literature. Most of the clinical studies report on the effects of curcumin/turmeric administered orally, while only a few describe its topical applications. SUMMARY: This review focuses on clinical studies in which curcumin/turmeric was applied topically to treat various skin conditions based on its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. KEY MESSAGES: The clinical studies employing curcumin/turmeric as the only active ingredient allow us to appreciate its therapeutic potential without confounding contributions coming from additional pharmacologically active substances present in the same formulation. Curcumin/turmeric was regarded as an attractive alternative to conventional drugs, such as corticosteroids and antibiotics, thanks to its characteristics of a safe and well-tolerated natural substance.

Quality of Calcium Food Supplements: Evaluation Compared to Manufacturers' Declarations.

Calcium (Ca) is a macronutrient necessary for the proper functioning of an organism. In the case of insufficient consumption with diet, its deficiencies can be supplemented with food supplements (FS). These supplements are used, for example, as an auxiliary in the prevention of osteoporosis, allergies, hair loss or nail brittleness. The purpose of the study was to assess the compliance of Ca content with the manufacturers' declaration. The material consisted of 108 FS. Ca content was determined by atomic absorption spectrometry (AAS). It was shown that 1.9% of the samples were characterized by a Ca content that was too low in comparison to the manufacturer's declaration, while a content that was relatively too high was found in 54.6% of FS. The quality of FS should be monitored to ensure patient safety.

Mastering health: liberating beauty : Will the cosmetics of tomorrow be genetic?

Systems that have yet to stand the test of time carry imperfections that need to be skillfully addressed with the least amount of authoritarianism as possible. The communication and transmission of knowledge that we hold dear are essential pillars to social progress. As such, it is necessary to analyze with the greatest scientific objectivity the applications arising from the deep revolution rooted in the total sequencing of the human genome which affects all aspects of our societies. This extraordinary advance in human knowledge and the resulting technological achievements should not lend themselves to the fears or fantasies often fueled by those who criticize all scientific progress calling into question the most established dogmas. Certain supposedly scholarly analyses of the health situation with which we are currently confronted worldwide are a perfect illustration of this unfortunate trend. It is undeniable that the progress of molecular genetics has opened up a wide range of applications in many fields, affecting the well-being of humans, their mental and physical health. The apparent universal and individual interest for the most advanced genetic profile analyzing technologies is a testimony to this strong common desire to better understand one's genetic heritage and to control their usage. Despite this movement, little attention is given to the recent advances in genetics applied to essential aspects of the social life of individuals through their inter-personal interactions. It is particularly distressing that the contributions of molecular biology and genetics to the daily well-being of individuals have not yet allowed open-access non-medical genetic testing to gain the recognition it deserves and are still viewed as recreational applications. Through an analysis of the cross influences that genetic biotechnologies have had since the beginning of the century in the fields of nutrition and cosmetics, we have tried to project ourselves into the near future which should witness major behavioral and social upheavals.

Applying Seaweed Compounds in Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics.

The interest in seaweeds for cosmetic, cosmeceutics, and nutricosmetics is increasing based on the demand for natural ingredients. Seaweeds offer advantages in relation to their renewable character, wide distribution, and the richness and versatility of their valuable bioactive compounds, which can be used as ingredients, as additives, and as active agents in the formulation of skin care products. Bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols, polysaccharides, proteins, peptides, amino acids, lipids, vitamins, and minerals, are responsible for the biological properties associated with seaweeds. Seaweed fractions can also offer technical features, such as thickening, gelling, emulsifying, texturizing, or moistening to develop cohesive matrices. Furthermore, the possibility of valorizing industrial waste streams and algal blooms makes them an attractive, low cost, raw and renewable material. This review presents an updated summary of the activities of different seaweed compounds and fractions based on scientific and patent literature.

Chemical Composition and Protective Effect of Young Barley (Hordeum vulgare L.) Dietary Supplements Extracts on UV-Treated Human Skin Fibroblasts in In Vitro Studies.

Young barley seems to be a promising material for use as nutricosmetic due to the presence of many biologically active compounds. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of Hordeum vulgare L. extracts on human skin fibroblasts exposed to ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) radiation. Analysis of the chemical composition showed a predominance of 9,12,15-octadecatrienoic acid. The quality assessment showed that young barley preparations have high total polyphenolic content (TPC) and favourable total antioxidant status (TAS). They also contain antioxidant elements such as zinc, copper, and selenium. Furthermore, the analyzed products were found to be safe in terms of toxic elements (lead, cadmium and mercury) and lack of cytotoxic effect of young barley extracts on cells. In vitro bioactivity assays showed that young barley extract increased the survival rate and accelerated the migration of fibroblasts in research models with UVB radiation. The application of both extracts caused an increase in DNA biosynthesis, and in the number of cells arrested in S phase. Moreover, an inhibitory effect of the tested extracts on the expression of matrix metalloproteinase 2 (MMP-2) and matrix metalloproteinase 9 (MMP-9) was observed. The results indicate that young barley extracts, due to protective as well as restorative effect, could potentially be used in the production of nutricosmetics and skin care products.