Yellowness in skin complexion: Analysis of self-perception of women in China evaluated against clinical parameters of yellowness.

BACKGROUND: Skin "yellowness" is an abstract and subjective term, without a definitive measurement protocol. Objectives were to analyze Chinese women's self-perception of skin yellowness and associated parameters and identify objective clinical measurements that correlate with these perceptions. METHODS: Following focus group discussions, criteria for skin yellowness were defined, and validated by volunteer rankings of facial images. A typology study of 185 women was performed. Participants were grouped into yellow (Color Uniformity, Brightness and Transparency (CUBT) yellow scale grade > 3, chromameter b* value > 16) and non-yellow (CUBT yellow scale grade < 2, b* value < 14) groups. Participants self-evaluated their skin on yellowness, transparency, skin uniformity, dullness, radiance, oiliness, and texture. Expert assessments were performed to grade sebaceous pores, ocular area pigmentation, pigmentary spots and CUBT scores. Instrumental analysis of the skin was employed using corneometer, sebumeter, mexameter chromameter, and AGE reader. RESULTS: Women in the yellow group self-evaluated their skin as significantly duller, less uniform, and less radiant than women in the non-yellow group (P ≤ 0.05). Higher levels of ocular area pigmentation and lower facial skin uniformity and brightness (P < 0.001) were observed in women with yellow skin. CUBT expert grading showed lower pink skin color, but significantly higher beige, yellow, and olive pigmentation (P ≤ 0.05) in women in the yellow skin group. Melanin and b* values were significantly higher in women with yellow skin while L value was significantly lower. CONCLUSION: Self-perceived skin yellowness in Chinese women correlates to chromameter and mexameter measurements, as well as expert evaluation of ocular pigmentation and CUBT parameters.

Understanding the causes of skincare product pilling.

BACKGROUND: Skincare and makeup "pilling" is an unsightly and undesirable phenomenon whereby skincare such as moisturizers or foundation ball up to form flakes on the skin. To date, the causes of skincare product pilling have not been studied. This study aimed to examine the relationship between skin physiology and pilling potential of sunscreen and foundation (the two products most reported by consumers to cause pilling). This study also examined the effects of product application methods on pilling. MATERIALS AND METHODS: 528 female volunteers from Guangzhou, China, aged between 20 and 49 years, underwent various clinical skin assessments, followed by three steps of product layering. Pilling was assessed after each product application step. RESULTS: 217 volunteers (41%) experienced pilling. The majority of pilling (n = 655 events) occurred following sunscreen application, while only a few pilling events (n = 35) occurred with foundation. Foundation improved pilling caused by sunscreen in 98.9% of cases. Volunteers experiencing pilling with both sunscreen and foundation had significantly lower facial skin hydration and oiliness, higher pH, and smoother skin texture (P < 0.05). Two application methods, rubbing of products in circular and linear motions, yielded the highest numbers of pilling events. CONCLUSION: This study has provided the first insights into the causes of pilling. Sunscreen is a promoter of pilling, while foundation may resolve sunscreen-induced pilling in many cases. Skin physiology, particularly drier, smoother skin with higher pH, and product application methods are likely contributing factors to this undesirable phenomenon.

Deciphering trends in replacing preservatives in cosmetics intended for infants and sensitive population.

The present study aims to investigate the current trends in replacing conventional preservatives with multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties for preservation of cosmetics for infants or sensitive population, to decrease their potential for contact dermatitis. We first reviewed the labels of cosmetics purchased from the Chinese market for conventional preservatives and multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties, of which the actual contents were further quantified by chromatographic methods. We identified 7 traditional preservatives (phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid (salts), methylparaben, benzyl alcohol, sorbic acid (salts), propylparaben, and methylisothiazolinone), and 11 alternative ingredients with antimicrobial activities (ethylhexylglycerin, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, p-anisic acid, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, decylene glycol, caprylhydroxamic acid, and aminomethyl propanol) in descending order of prevalence. The contents of all identified preservatives and ingredients were either below regulatory limits or in the range that is generally regarded to be safe. Further challenge with microorganisms indicated irrespective of the composition of preservation systems, product preservation could be compromised under test conditions. We conclude that multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties in cosmetics have the potential to completely replace or significantly reduce the use of traditional preservatives while retaining comparative preservative efficacy. Future attentions may need to be shifted to the safety of those multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties.

Cosmetic Preservative Potential and Chemical Composition of Lafoensia replicata Pohl. Leaves.

The study evaluated the preservative potential of Lafoensia replicata Pohl. leaf extracts in cosmetics, highlighting their antioxidant, antimicrobial, and in vitro cytotoxic activities for ethanolic extract prepared by the maceration and tincture method. Total phenol content showed a higher phenol concentration in ethanolic extract and tinctures, and by LC-MS/MS-ESI-QTOF analysis, flavonoids, hydrolyzed tannins, and phenolic acids were identified. The ethanolic extract and tincture showed high antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Candida albicans (MIC < 50 µg mL-1), high antioxidant activity (EC50 < 50 µg mL-1 in the DPPH method, and results > 450 µmol trolox equivalent in the ABTS and FRAP method), and low cytotoxicity in human keratinocytes (IC50 > 350 µg mL-1). The results suggest these extracts could be an alternative to synthetic preservatives in the cosmetic industry.

Concentration and health risk assessment of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances in cosmetic and personal care products.

Per and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are toxicologically concerning because of their potential to bioaccumulate and their persistence in the environment and the human body. We determined PFAS levels in cosmetic and personal care products and assessed their health risks. We investigated the trends in concentrations and types of PFAS contaminants in cosmetic and personal care products before and after perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) were added to the list of persistent organic pollutants. The total PFAS concentration ranged from 1.98 to 706.75 ng g-1. The hazard quotients (HQs) for PFOA, PFOS and perfluorobutanesulfonic acid (PFBS) were lower than 1, indicating no appreciable risk to consumers. Assuming the simultaneous use of all product types and the worst-case scenario for calculations, perfluoroalkyl carboxylic acids and perfluoroalkane sulfonic acids (PFSAs) also had hazard indices lower than 1. We found that adverse effects are unlikely to occur when each type of cosmetic is used separately, or even when all product types are used together. Nevertheless, the persistence and bioaccumulation characteristics of additional PFAS present in cosmetics continue to be a cause for concern. Further research is necessary to investigate the long-term impacts of using such cosmetics and the associated risks to human health.

Epidemiology of patch tested patients with permanent tattoos-A comparative analysis of 9693 IVDK patients (2020-2022).

BACKGROUND: Permanent tattooing is the invasive introduction of tattoo ink (pigments) into the dermis. The ink and aftercare cosmetics applied on pre-damaged skin may contain skin sensitisers. OBJECTIVES: To identify patient characteristics and the pattern of sensitisation in tattooed patients patch tested within the Information Network of Departments of Dermatology (IVDK). PATIENTS AND METHODS: Comparative analysis of patient characteristics and reaction frequencies to baseline series allergens in 1648 consecutive patients with and 8045 consecutive patients without permanent tattoos. Non-overlapping 95%-confidence intervals were considered as significant. RESULTS: Having permanent tattoos was related with female sex, age <40 years, tobacco smoking, atopic dermatitis, (occupational) hand dermatitis and being employed in particular occupational groups (e.g., healthcare workers, mechanics, hairdressers). Sensitisation to nickel was increased in tattooed patients and associated with female sex (OR 4.23 [95%-CI, 3.48-5.18]), age ≥40 years (OR 1.26 [95%-CI, 1.08-1.49]), tobacco smoking (OR 1.19 [95%-CI, 1.01-1.40]) and having permanent tattoos (OR 1.27 [95%-CI, 1.05-1.53]). CONCLUSIONS: The association between nickel sensitisation and permanent tattoos is probably confounded by past reactions to pierced costume jewellery. Socio-economic factors most probably contribute to the connection between tattoos, tobacco smoking, occupational or hand dermatitis, and being employed in particular occupational groups.

Safety and Effectiveness of a Novel Color Corrector Serum for Causing Temporary Changes to Tooth Shade: A Randomized Controlled Clinical Study.

Tooth color is a major driver of facial esthetics. While permanent changes in tooth shade can be achieved by bleaching and restorations, there is a need for cosmetic products that can cause reversible color changes. This randomized controlled clinical study assessed the effectiveness and safety of a novel color-correcting product (Hismile™ V34 Color Corrector Serum™) versus a placebo (vehicle control lacking the color-change dyes). A single-center, randomized, controlled, examiner-blind, two-group, parallel design, single-use study design was followed. The test products were applied on a cotton bud for 30 s, and then, rinsed off. Tooth shade for maxillary central incisors was measured at baseline, immediately, and at 30 and 60 min, using the Vita Bleachedguide 3D-Master® Shade Guide and the EasyShade Advanced 4.0 spectrophotometer (for determining values of L*a*b*). The subjects (N = 60) had a baseline shade of 1M2 (rank 9) or darker. A single application of the test product resulted in an immediate and significant (p < 0.001) three shade improvement (26.2%) according to the shade guide, and the same significant benefits extended to 30 and 60 min. The placebo product did not alter tooth shade (p = 0.326). These changes were accompanied by significant improvements in the L value (whiteness) up to 30 min, and a reduction in b* (yellowness) for up to 60 min. Two-thirds of subjects using the test product stated in a survey that their teeth appeared both whiter and brighter. No safety issues arose from the use of the test product or vehicle control. These results indicate that using a color corrector can achieve worthwhile changes to tooth shade for up to 60 min.

Oil/Water Biphasic Solvent System for the Eco-Extraction and Cosmetic Formulation of Bixa orellana L.

Annatto, obtained from the seeds of achiote (Bixa orellana L.), is a widely used orange pigment rich in bixin and other apocarotenoids. This work reports the optimisation of a green extraction method of pigments and antioxidant compounds from achiote as well as its integration in a one-step green extraction-cosmetic formulation process. A biphasic solvent system of water and oil was used to recover simultaneously polar polyphenols, and less polar compounds, such as δ-tocotrienol and bixin. The optimisation of the ultrasound assisted extraction is presented, as well as a comparison of different vegetable oils used as extraction solvents. The composition, physicochemical properties and antioxidant activity of the oils were studied and their extraction performance was compared. Refined sunflower oil proved to be a better solvent than virgin olive, jojoba, coconut and grapeseed oils. Both aqueous and oil phases displayed an interesting antioxidant capacity. The oil phase contained 0.9% of bixin, as well as minor apocarotenoids and δ-tocotrienol. Twelve compounds, mainly phenolics, were identified by UHPLC-DAD-HRMS/MS in the aqueous phase. Twenty-one volatile compounds were identified in the volatile fraction by SPME-GC-MS. Lastly, a one-step green process is proposed to combine the extraction and the cosmetic formulation of the bioactive compounds.

New Insights into Trace Element Accumulation in Kernels of Two Algerian Populations of Argan (Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels): An Endangered Endemic Tree.

Argan is one of the valuable oilseed trees in the Northwest Africa area, with important ecological and socioeconomic benefits; however, information underlying its elemental status remains absent . The current work was performed for the first time to quantify the mineral status of Argania spinosa kernels collected from two different geographic Algerian regions (Mostaganem and Tindouf). Elemental investigation (As, Br, Ca, Ce, Co, Cr, Fe, K, La, Na, Rb, Sb, Sc, Sm, Th, and Zn) was performed using neutron activation analysis (NAA). Two standard reference materials from the National Research Center for certified reference materials (China), namely, CRM-GBW 07605 (GSV-4 tea leaves), and the National Institute of Standards and Technology (USA), namely, NIST (SRM 1573a, tomato leaves), were used to ensure precision and validation of NAA measurements. A computational calculation of data including principal component analysis (PCA) and Pearson correlation coefficient (r) was applied. The extents of essential elements in Mostaganem kernels were found to be in the order of K (7185 µg g-1) > Ca (2079 µg g-1) > Na (205 µg g-1) > Fe (84.33 µg g-1) > Zn (73.41 µg g-1) > Cr (0.66 µg g-1) > Co (0.035 µg g-1), whereas the overall order of these elements in Tindouf kernels was K (7206 µg g-1) > Ca (3725 µg g-1) > Fe (114.69 µg g-1) > Zn (67.37 µg g-1) > Na (56.29 µg g-1) > Cr (0.54 µg g-1) > Co (0.11 µg g-1). PCA results revealed that Tindouf population was highly loaded with Br, Cr, Cu, Mn, Sr, V, and Zn, while Mostaganem population was associated only with Ce and Sm contents. These findings can be useful for making new formulations for cosmetic and culinary usage and contribute to the nutritional database and food safety.

Ethics of Residency Programs and Fellowships that Electively Withdraw from the NRMP Match.

The National Resident Matching Program (NRMP), known as "The Match (TM)," facilitates the placement of medical graduates into residency and fellowship programs in the United States. Programs may opt out of TM for various reasons. The selective and intermittent withdrawal of programs from TM raises ethical concerns surrounding fairness, transparency, beneficence, autonomy, and justice for applicants. We discuss these issues, present the history behind TM, and offer suggestions to promote fairness.

Social media use as a source of information by acne vulgaris patients.

BACKGROUND: Social media and internet usage is undeniably high. Misinformation obtained from the internet and wrong treatment methods can cause serious problems in patients with acne vulgaris (AV). In this study, the sociodemographic data of AV patients, their frequency of using the internet as an information source, the relationship between them, and their attitudes and behaviors regarding their disease due to these programs were examined. METHODS: 481 patients aged 14 and over diagnosed with AV were included in the study. It was conducted in a descriptive cross-sectional type. Acne severity of all patients included in the study was determined using the Global Acne Grading System. RESULTS: 78.3 percent of participants use social media to get information about AV. It was determined that men and single people used social media about their illnesses at a statistically significantly higher rate than women and married people (p = 0.004). In addition, patients aged 13-18 and high school graduates use social media as a source of information about their diseases, and this rate is statistically significantly higher (p < 0.001). CONCLUSION: Especially in the last decade, the use of social media tools to spread health messages has increased significantly. Because it has a chronic course and can cause cosmetic problems, AV patients may frequently resort to communication sources such as social media. Considering the possibility of social media misinforming patients, physicians should be aware that their patients with AV frequently use social media and should improve themselves in creating correct awareness on this issue.

Preparation and Evaluation of Nanoemulsion Formulation Containing Kojic Acid and Kojyl 3-aminopropylphosphonic Acid.

BACKGROUND: The kojyl 3-aminopropylphosphonic acid (KAP) was synthesized by kojic acid (KA) with a 3-aminopropylphosphonic acid. Which is more stable than KA and showed better skin penetration and anti-pigmentation efficacy in melanocytes. However, up till now, there have been no studies aimed at incorporating KAP into an emulsion system and evaluating its effectiveness. OBJECTIVE: We develop a novel skin-lightening agent using KAP as the active ingredient and a low-cytotoxic nanoemulsion as the delivery system in this study. METHOD: The sorbitan monooleate and polysorbate surfactants with polyethylene glycol (PEG) co-surfactant were used to generate a nanoemulsion system. RESULT: The transparency and particle size stability over various storage times indicate that the formulated nanoemulsions are suitable for long-term storage. Besides, results demonstrate that the anti-pigmentation function of KA and KAP-containing nanoemulsions (NE-KA and NEKAP) evidently outperformed that of the non-packed KA and KAP group. Despite having the lowest concentration among other treatments, NE-KAP was able to reduce melanin content to approximately 80% of the blank. CONCLUSION: Our findings suggest that this newly developed nanoemulsion containing KAP could potentially serve as a sustainable alternative to hydroquinone for treating dermal hyperpigmentation disorders in future applications.

High prevalence but no current clinical relevance of methyldibromo glutaronitrile since its ban in Turkey in 2015.

BACKGROUND: Regulatory actions significantly reduced methyldibromo glutaronitrile (MDBGN)-induced allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) from cosmetics in Europe. Turkey banned MDBGN in 2015. OBJECTIVES: To assess sensitization and ACD rates to MDBGN before and after its ban in Turkey. METHODS: Data from 2653 consecutively patch tested patients between 1996 and 2023 with MDBGN 0.1% pet. (n = 573) or 0.2%-0.3% pet. (n = 1310) or 0.5% pet. (n = 770) were analysed. MDBGN was tested as MDBGN/phenoxyethanol (PE) in 1434 patients. RESULTS: The sensitization prevalence was 1.7% (45/2653), peaking at 5.3% in 2018 and 2023 with MDBGN 0.3% pet. There was a two-fold male predominance, with patients exclusively ≥20 years old. None of the patients reacted to PE. ACD occurred in 0.7% (19/2653), mainly affecting hands and linked to non-occupational exposure (78.9%), particularly from rinse-off/leave-on cosmetics. The pattern of 'middle-aged men with hand eczema and fragrance allergy' was particularly notable. Occupational ACD was rare (21.1%), occurring mainly in hairdressers from hair gel. Positive reactions with current clinical relevance dropped from 48.3% (1996-2014) to zero after 2015 (p < 0.001). CONCLUSIONS: The ban effectively reduced MDBGN-induced ACD in Turkey, yet the prevalence of positive patch test reactions remains high, likely due to past exposures or other undisclosed sources. We suggest continued testing of MDBGN in the EBS in Turkey.

Skin-on-a-chip technologies towards clinical translation and commercialization.

Skin is the largest organ of the human body which plays a critical role in thermoregulation, metabolism (e.g. synthesis of vitamin D), and protection of other organs from environmental threats, such as infections, microorganisms, ultraviolet radiation, and physical damage. Even though skin diseases are considered to be less fatal, the ubiquity of skin diseases and irritation caused by them highlights the importance of skin studies. Furthermore, skin is a promising means for transdermal drug delivery, which requires a thorough understanding of human skin structure. Current animal andin vitrotwo/three-dimensional skin models provide a platform for disease studies and drug testing, whereas they face challenges in the complete recapitulation of the dynamic and complex structure of actual skin tissue. One of the most effective methods for testing pharmaceuticals and modeling skin diseases are skin-on-a-chip (SoC) platforms. SoC technologies provide a non-invasive approach for examining 3D skin layers and artificially creating disease models in order to develop diagnostic or therapeutic methods. In addition, SoC models enable dynamic perfusion of culture medium with nutrients and facilitate the continuous removal of cellular waste to further mimic thein vivocondition. Here, the article reviews the most recent advances in the design and applications of SoC platforms for disease modeling as well as the analysis of drugs and cosmetics. By examining the contributions of different patents to the physiological relevance of skin models, the review underscores the significant shift towards more ethical and efficient alternatives to animal testing. Furthermore, it explores the market dynamics ofin vitroskin models and organ-on-a-chip platforms, discussing the impact of legislative changes and market demand on the development and adoption of these advanced research tools. This article also identifies the existing obstacles that hinder the advancement of SoC platforms, proposing directions for future improvements, particularly focusing on the journey towards clinical adoption.

Study on percutaneous penetration of representative cosmetic ingredients in a baby wipe product in an in vitro diaper rash skin model.

Studying percutaneous penetration of various cosmetic ingredients through intact and compromised skin can provide insight on quantitative exposure assessment for baby products intended for diapered skin. We developed an in vitro model (tape-stripped human skin) designed to achieve the Trans-Epidermal Water Loss values measured in babies with various degrees of diaper dermatitis. Six reference compounds showed the impact of physicochemical properties on absorption through this "diaper rash" skin model. Under simulated diaper conditions, dermal absorption of cosmetic ingredients (phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, benzyl alcohol, disodium EDTA, and propylene glycol) was different, but <100%. Additionally, the effect of diaper rash on dermal absorption of well-absorbed ingredients (phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, and benzyl alcohol) was limited (enhancement of 1.1-1.3), while the enhancement for moderately absorbed compounds (disodium EDTA and propylene glycol) was 1.8-3.3. Absorption via skin with "diaper rash" is specific to individual ingredients and exposure conditions, so a fixed uncertainty factor is not appropriate for safety assessment. The data support that the default 100% dermal absorption commonly used in first-tier risk assessments for diapered skin is conservative. This diaper rash skin model provides a practical tool of estimating absorption of various ingredients in baby products intended for diapered skin.

Preparation of deep eutectic solvent modified magnetic graphene oxide/metal organic framework nanocomposites for the extraction of three estrogens in cosmetics.

A novel magnetic dispersive solid phase extraction (MDSPE) procedure based on the deep eutectic solvent (DES) modified magnetic graphene oxide/metal organic frameworks nanocomposites (MGO@ZIF-8@DES) was established and used for the efficient enrichment of estradiol, estrone, and diethylstilbestrol in cosmetics (toner, lotion, and cream) for the first time. Then, the three estrogens were separated and determined by UHPLC-UV analysis method. In order to study the features and morphology of the synthesized adsorbents, various techniques such as FT-IR, SEM, and VSM measurements were executed. The MGO@ZIF-8@DES nanocomposites combine the advantages of high adsorption capacity, adequate stability in aqueous solution, and convenient separation from the sample solution. To achieve high extraction recoveries, the Box-Behnken design and single factor experiment were applied in the experimental design. Under the optimum conditions, the method detection limits for three estrogens were 20-30 ng g-1. This approach showed a good correlation coefficient (r more than 0.9998) and reasonable linearity in the range 70-10000 ng g-1. The relative standard deviations for intra-day and inter-day were beneath 7.5% and 8.9%, respectively. The developed MDSPE-UHPLC-UV method was successfully used to determine  three estrogens in cosmetics, and acceptable recoveries in the intervals of 83.5-95.9% were obtained. Finally, three estrogens were not detected in some cosmetic samples. In addition, the Complex GAPI tool was used to evaluate the greenness of the developed pretreatment method. The developed MDSPE-UHPLC-UV method is sensitive, accurate, rapid, and eco-friendly, which provides a promising strategy for determining hormones in different complex samples.

A sustainable and innovative method to determine parabens in body creams for exposure and risk assessment.

Methylparaben (MeP), ethylparaben (EtP), propylparaben (PrP), and butylparaben (BuP) are among the most widely used preservatives in cosmetics, drugs, and foods. These compounds have been associated with toxic effects due to the overuse of products with parabens in their formulation. The toxicity of parabens may be correlated to endocrine disruption, owing to their ability to mimic the actions of estradiol. In this paper, a simple, sustainable, robust, and innovative dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction (DLLME) technique was developed and employed to extract these xenobiotics from body cream samples, aiming to calculate the margin of safety (MoS) to assess the risk of exposure. The validated method presented suitable linearity (r > 0.99), lower limits of detection (ranging from 0.01 to 0.04 % w/w), and satisfactory precision and accuracy (ranging from 4.33 to 10.47, and from -14.25 to 13.85, respectively). Seven of the ten analysed samples presented paraben contents within the acceptable concentration according to European legislation. The MoS value obtained for PrP (37.58) suggested its reduced safety, indicating that PrP may significantly contribute to systemic exposure resulting from the use of personal care products.