BB creams and their photoprotective effect.

BB creams appeared on the market quite recently. These creams, which give a perfect complexion by covering up the skin's blemishes, have a photoprotective effect in the majority of cases. An SPF value ranging from 10 to 45 concerning the products we tested is displayed on the packaging. The 21 commercially-available BB creams were tested to assess their efficacy (determination of the SPF) and their photostability (determination of their efficacy after UV irradiation). It was shown that 70% of the products tested have an SPF determined in vitro by us which matches the SPF displayed on the product. For the remaining 30%, it can be seen that products have SPF values of between 2 and 10 times lower than those indicated on the products. It can also be noted that there is a large disparity in terms of photostability since, under the same experimental conditions, however, some products only lose 5% of their photoprotective efficacy, whereas others lose 60%.

Non-animal photosafety screening for complex cosmetic ingredients with photochemical and photobiochemical assessment tools.

Previously, a non-animal screening approach was proposed for evaluating photosafety of cosmetic ingredients by means of in vitro photochemical and photobiochemical assays; however, complex cosmetic ingredients, such as plant extracts and polymers, could not be evaluated because their molecular weight is often poorly defined and so their molar concentration cannot be calculated. The aim of the present investigation was to establish a photosafety screen for complex cosmetic ingredients by using appropriately modified in vitro photosafety assays. Twenty plant extracts were selected as model materials on the basis of photosafety information, and their phototoxic potentials were assessed by means of ultraviolet (UV)/visible light (VIS) spectral analysis, reactive oxygen species (ROS)/micellar ROS (mROS) assays, and 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity testing (3T3 NRU PT). The maximum UV/VIS absorption value was employed as a judgment factor for evaluating photoexcitability of samples, and the value of 1.0 was adopted as a tentative criterion for photosafety identification. The ROS/mROS assays were conducted at 50 µg/mL, and no false negative prediction was obtained. Furthermore, the ROS/mROS assays at 50 µg/mL had a similar predictive capacity to the ROS/mROS assays in the previous study. A systematic tiered approach for simple and rapid non-animal photosafety evaluation of complex cosmetic ingredients can be constructed using these modified in vitro photochemical assays.

Identification of unwanted photoproducts of cosmetic preservatives in personal care products under ultraviolet-light using solid-phase microextraction and micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion.

The photochemical transformation of widely used cosmetic preservatives including benzoates, parabens, BHA, BHT and triclosan has been investigated in this work applying an innovative double-approach strategy: identification of transformation products in aqueous photodegradation experiments (UV-light, 254nm), followed by targeted screening analysis of such photoproducts in UV-irradiated cosmetic samples. Solid-phase microextraction (SPME) was applied, using different fiber coatings, in order to widen the range of detectable photoproducts in water, whereas UV-irradiated personal care products (PCPs) containing the target preservatives were extracted by micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion (micro-MSPD). Both SPME and micro-MSPD-based methodologies were successfully optimized and validated. Degradation kinetics of parent species, and photoformation of their transformation by-products were monitored by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Thirty nine photoproducts were detected in aqueous photodegradation experiments, being tentatively identified based on their mass spectra. Transformation pathways between structurally related by-products, consistent with their kinetic behavior were postulated. The photoformation of unexpected photoproducts such as 2- and 4-hydroxybenzophenones, and 2,8-dichlorodibenzo-p-dioxin in PCPs are reported in this work for the first time.

Non-animal photosafety assessment approaches for cosmetics based on the photochemical and photobiochemical properties.

The main purpose of the present study was to establish a non-animal photosafety assessment approach for cosmetics using in vitro photochemical and photobiochemical screening systems. Fifty-one cosmetics, pharmaceutics and other chemicals were selected as model chemicals on the basis of animal and/or clinical photosafety information. The model chemicals were assessed in terms of photochemical properties by UV/VIS spectral analysis, reactive oxygen species (ROS) assay and 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity testing (3T3 NRU PT). Most phototoxins exhibited potent UV/VIS absorption with molar extinction coefficients of over 1000M(-1)cm(-1), although false-negative prediction occurred for 2 cosmetic phototoxins owing to weak UV/VIS absorption. Among all the cosmetic ingredients, ca. 42% of tested chemicals were non-testable in the ROS assay because of low water solubility; thereby, micellar ROS (mROS) assay using a solubilizing surfactant was employed for follow-up screening. Upon combination use of ROS and mROS assays, the individual specificity was 88.2%, and the positive and negative predictivities were estimated to be 94.4% and 100%, respectively. In the 3T3 NRU PT, 3 cosmetics and 4 drugs were incorrectly predicted not to be phototoxic, although some of them were typical photoallergens. Thus, these in vitro screening systems individually provide false predictions; however, a systematic tiered approach using these assays could provide reliable photosafety assessment without any false-negatives. The combined use of in vitro assays might enable simple and fast non-animal photosafety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients.

Lipid nanoparticles based on butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane: in vitro UVA blocking effect.

The aim of the present study was to obtain efficient lipid nanoparticles loaded with butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM) in order to develop cosmetic formulations with enhanced UVA blocking effect. For this purpose, two adequate liquid lipids (medium chain triglycerides and squalene) have been used in combination with two solid lipids (cetyl palmitate and glyceryl stearate) in order to create appropriate nanostructured carriers with a disordered lipid network able to accommodate up to 1.5% BMDBM. The lipid nanoparticles (LNs) were characterized in terms of particle size, zeta potential, entrapment efficiency, loading capacity and in vitro UVA blocking effect. The efficiency of lipid nanoparticles in developing some cosmetic formulations has been evaluated by determining the in vitro erythemal UVA protection factor. In order to quantify the photoprotective effect, some selected cream formulations based on BMDBM-LNs and a conventional emulsion were exposed to photochemical UV irradiation at a low energy to simulate the solar energy during the midday. The results obtained demonstrated the high ability of cream formulations based on BMDBM-LNs to absorb more than 96% of UVA radiation. Moreover, the developed cosmetic formulations manifest an enhanced UVA blocking effect, the erythemal UVA protection factor being four times higher than those specific to conventional emulsions.

Lipid nanoparticles as novel delivery systems for cosmetics and dermal pharmaceuticals.

INTRODUCTION: Lipid nanoparticles are innovative carrier systems developed as an alternative to traditional vehicles such as emulsions, liposomes and polymeric nanoparticles. Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and the newest nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) show important advantages for dermal application of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. AREA COVERED: This article focuses on the main features of lipid nanoparticles, in terms of their preparation and recent advancements. A detailed review of the literature is presented, introducing the importance of these systems in the topical delivery of drugs and active substances. EXPERT OPINION: Lipid nanoparticles are able to enhance drug penetration into the skin, allowing increased targeting to the epidermis and consequently increasing treatment efficiency and reducing the systemic absorption of drugs and cosmetic actives. The complete biodegradation of lipid nanoparticles and their biocompatible chemical nature have secured them the title of 'nanosafe carriers.' SLN and NLC represent a new technological era, which has been taken over by the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry, which will open new channels for effective topical delivery of substances.

Assessment of the photo-degradation of UV-filters and radical-induced peroxidation in cosmetic sunscreen formulations.

Photo-instability of common UV-filters is a well documented phenomenon. This study develops a method for concomitant measurement of photostability and photo-induced ROS generation in cosmetic formulations. Oil-in-water formulations containing three common UV filters (OMC, BMDBM, EHT), individually or combined, were further supplemented with phosphatidylcholine and exposed to UVA. All filters show spectral decrease after UVA exposure. OMC and EHT do not induce significant lipid-peroxidation (as measured by TBARS production) while BMDBM does. In the latter case, this is reduced when BMDBM is combined with OMC but not with EHT. Neither OMC nor EHT stabilize BMDBM with respect to loss of absorbance. ROS-generation assessed via TBARS formation was supported by EPR experiments. The UV-induced changes in UV-filter performance, as monitored in the model formulations and in commercial sunscreens, demonstrate that this is a simple and effective method for stability assessment of sunscreen filters under conditions of use.

Resonance Raman spectroscopy as an effective tool for the determination of antioxidative stability of cosmetic formulations.

Carotenoids beta-carotene, lutein, lycopene and others are well-known powerful antioxidants acting as an effective neutralizer of free radicals produced in the human organism as a result of the influence of stress factors, such as UV irradiation. The protective effect of antioxidants is used in cosmetic products to increase the skin protection against the destructive action of free radicals and for the stabilization of formulations against oxidation. In the skin, the different antioxidant substances form protection chains to avoid their destruction by the interaction with the free radicals. Similar effects have to be expected also in topically applied formulations. In the present study the influence of different mixtures of antioxidants (beta-carotene, vitamins C and E) on the stability of antioxidants in formulations used for skin treatment was investigated. The measurements were carried out by using non-invasive resonance Raman spectroscopy for the detection of the carotenoid concentration in the cosmetic formulations.

Photodegradation of pharmaceuticals and personal care products during UV and UV/H2O2 treatments.

Photodegradation characteristics of pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) and the effectiveness of H(2)O(2) addition for PPCPs photodegradation during UV treatment were examined in this study. Average k (1st order rate constant) value for all the PPCPs investigated increased by a factor of 1.3 by H(2)O(2) addition during UV treatment using biologically treated water (TW) spiked with the 30 PPCPs. Therefore, the effectiveness of H(2)O(2) addition for PPCPs removal during UV treatment in real wastewater treatment process was expected. It could be also known that H(2)O(2) addition would improve photodegradation rates of PPCPs highly resistant for UV treatment such as DEET, ethenzamide and theophylline. UV dose required for 90% degradation of each PPCP was calculated from k values obtained in UV and UV/H(2)O(2) treatment experiments using TW spiked with 30 PPCPs. For UV treatment, UV dose required for degrading each PPCP by 90% of initial concentration ranged from 38 mJ cm(-2) to 5644 mJ cm(-2), indicating that most of PPCPs will not be removed sufficiently in UV disinfection process in wastewater treatment plant. For UV/H(2)O(2) treatment, all the PPCPs except seven PPCPs including cyclophosphamide and 2-QCA were degraded by more than 90% by UV irradiation for 30 min (UV dose: 691 mJ cm(-2)), indicating that H(2)O(2) addition during UV treatment will be highly effective for improving the degradation of PPCPs by UV, even though much higher UV dose is still necessary comparing to for UV disinfection.

Photodegradation of retinol and anti-aging effectiveness of two commercial emulsions.

Two commercial anti-aging products, RETI C and RETI C concentrate emulsions, containing retinol and vitamin C, were studied. The concentration of vitamin A was determined over time, subjecting the creams to an accelerated stability test. Both emulsions, when stored at 25 degrees C, showed a moderate decrease over time in retinol concentration, while after storage at 40 degrees C the percentage of retinol degraded increased over time. Under UVA irradiation, the retinol degraded to a greater extent than under UVB irradiation, both in RETI C and RETI C concentrate emulsions. In order to verify the anti-aging effectiveness of the emulsions, an in vivo test on some female volunteers was carried out, evaluating the visible results of the application of the creams on the skin surface. The creams were rather unstable after storage at 40 degrees C, but they were effective in treating the signs of aging and in reducing facial wrinkles.

Photoreaction, phototoxicity, and photocarcinogenicity of retinoids.

Sunlight is a human carcinogen. Many retinoid-containing cosmetics are used to protect damages caused by sunlight irradiation. Since retinol is thermally unstable and retinyl palmitate (RP) s relatively more stable, RP is also widely used as an ingredient in cosmetic formulations. In general, little is known about the photodecomposition of retinoids and the toxicity of retinoids and their photodecomposition products on the skin's responses to sunlight. This review focuses on the update information on photoreactions, phototoxicity, and photocarcinogenicity of the natural retinoids including retinol, retinal, retinoid acid (RA), retinyl acetate, and RP.

Allergic contact dermatitis to artificial fingernails prepared from UV light-cured acrylates.

BACKGROUND: Contact dermatitis from artificial nails made from self-curing acrylic resins is occasionally reported. Recently, UV light-cured products introducing new acrylics have become available. OBJECTIVE: Our purpose was to identify relevant allergens in commercial light-curing products by patch tests and to evaluate the efficacy of "hypoallergenic" products by inclusion into the test series. METHODS: Patients wearing photobonded acrylic nails who had perionychial and subonychial eczema were patch tested with an acrylate battery and "hypoallergenic" commercial products. RESULTS: Triethyleneglycol dimethacrylate, hydroxyfunctional methacrylates, and (meth)-acrylated urethanes proved to be relevant allergens in photobonded nail preparations. Methacrylated epoxy resin sensitization was not observed. All "hypoallergenic" products provoked positive reactions. CONCLUSION: The omission of irritant methacrylic acid in UV-curable products does not reduce the high sensitizing potential of new acrylates. In contrast to the manufacturers' declarations, all "hypoallergenic" products continue to include acrylate functional monomers and therefore continue to cause allergic sensitization.