The Mystery of an Inflamed "Soul Patch".

A 20-year-old man had developed dermatitis on his scalp and facial hair between his lower lip and chin, his 'soul patch', for one month. He initially presented to urgent care, where the dermatitis was attributed to Herpes simplex infection, for which he was treated with both oral valacyclovir and topical acyclovir. When no change was observed, he consulted his pediatrician, who prescribed oral clindamycin and referred him to dermatology. Physical examination revealed a crusted plaque on an erythematous and edematous base at the lower cutaneous border of the lower lip (Figure 1). Examination additionally revealed an erythematous scaling plaque on the left temporal area with associated flaking, tenderness, and hair loss and left-sided cervical lymphadenopathy. A fungal culture grew Trichophyton mentagrophytes, but a bacterial culture did not grow. Further investigation revealed that he had a dog; however, no other animal contact to account for a fungal reservoir was present. He was successfully treated with oral terbinafine for 6 weeks, plus ketoconazole 2% shampoo and ketoconazole 2% cream with complete reso-lution (Figure 2).

Human urinary excretion kinetics of the antimycotic climbazole: Biomonitoring of two new metabolites after oral and dermal dosage.

Climbazole is an antimycotic compound used in cosmetic products as a preservative or as an active ingredient in anti-dandruff (AD) formulations. In this study we provide human toxicokinetic data on climbazole. Using our previously published analytical method, we investigated the urinary excretion of two climbazole metabolites, (OH)2-climbazole and cx-OH-climbazole, for 48 h after oral ingestion (n = 5, 49-77 µg/kg bw) and for 72 h after dermal application of either a climbazole-containing rinse-off AD shampoo or a leave-on hair tonic (n = 2×3). In total, 23.9 % (18.0-33.4 %) of the oral dose were excreted as the two abovementioned metabolites over 48 h. In one volunteer, who used an over-the-counter phytopharmaceutical, metabolite excretion was about three times lower and we found influences on diastereoselectivity of (OH)2-climbazole formation using a modified analytical method. After dermal application, urinary concentration maxima occurred considerably later than after oral intake. The two different dermal exposure scenarios also revealed a relevance of exposure duration and product formulation on the systemic availability of climbazole. Back-calculated oral-dose-equivalent intakes from the dermal exposures showed a maximum climbazole intake of 18.5 µg/kg bw/d after hair tonic use, or 6.6 µg/kg bw/d after AD shampoo application.

Hair product use and urinary biomarker concentrations of non-persistent endocrine disrupting chemicals among reproductive-aged Black women.

BACKGROUND: Studies have shown an association between hair product use and adverse health outcomes. Scientists have hypothesized that exposure to endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) drives these associations, but few studies have directly evaluated associations between hair product use and biomarkers of EDCs. Even more limited are studies of Black women, who frequently use EDC-containing products (e.g., hair relaxers). OBJECTIVE: We estimated associations between hair product use and EDC biomarker concentrations. METHODS: We leveraged cross-sectional data from the Study of Environment, Lifestyle, and Fibroids, a cohort of females aged 23-34 years who self-identified as Black/African American from the Detroit-metropolitan area (USA; n = 425). On structured questionnaires, participants reported their past 24-h and past 12-month use of hair products, including relaxers/straighteners/perms, styling products, moisturizers, oils, and hair food. We quantified urinary concentrations of 19 phthalate/phthalate alternative metabolites, 7 phenols, and 4 parabens using high performance liquid chromatography isotope dilution tandem mass spectrometry. EDC biomarker concentrations were creatinine-adjusted and natural log-transformed. We used multivariable linear regression to estimate mean percent differences in EDC biomarker concentrations and 95% confidence intervals (CIs) associated with hair product use, adjusting for sociodemographic confounders. RESULTS: Hair product use was associated with greater concentrations of multiple EDC biomarkers. Notably, use of hair products in the previous 24 h (compared with non-use) was associated with 16.2% (95% CI = 0.7%, 35.9%), 35.0% (95% CI = 2.6%, 77.6%), and 32.3% (95% CI = 8.8%, 92.0%) higher concentrations of mono-isobutyl phthalate, methyl paraben, and ethyl paraben, respectively. Use of hair relaxers/straighteners/perms, styling products, moisturizers, oils, and hair food in the past 12 months was also associated with higher concentrations of multiple phthalate, phenol, and paraben biomarkers. CONCLUSION: Hair product use was associated with higher biomarker concentrations of multiple phthalates, phenols, and parabens. These findings suggest that hair products are potentially important exposure sources for hormonally-active chemicals among Black women.

Allergen content of popular chemical hair relaxers: A product analysis.

BACKGROUND: Chemical hair relaxers are widely utilized by black women, yet little research exists on the allergens present in these products. OBJECTIVE: This study aims to investigate allergen prevalence in the most popular chemical hair relaxers. METHODS: We analysed 41 products from five major retailers, identifying allergens through ingredient lists and comparing them to the 2020 American Contact Dermatitis Group Core allergen series. RESULTS: The most common contact allergens in chemical relaxers include propylene glycol, cetyl steryl alcohol, fragrance, D/L-a-tocopherol, tea tree oil and cocamidopropyl betaine. CONCLUSION: Understanding allergen exposure in products used by individuals with textured hair is needed for managing contact dermatitis in diverse populations. This analysis underscores the presence of potential allergens in hair relaxers, emphasizing the importance of dermatologists' awareness and patient scrutiny of ingredient lists.

A Novel Ex Vivo Blinking Method for Comparing the Corneal Residence Time of New Shampoo Formulations.

In the cosmetics sector, many products such as shampoos have a probability of accidental ocular exposure during their routine use. One very specific safety parameter is the residence time of the substance on the corneal surface, as prolonged exposure may cause injury. In this study, we developed a system that simulates corneal exposure to blinking and tear flow, for comparing the corneal clearance times of viscous detergent formulations. The Ex Vivo Eye Irritation Test (EVEIT), which uses corneal explants from discarded rabbit eyes from an abattoir, was used as the basis for the new system. To simulate blinking, we developed a silicone wiping membrane to regularly move across the corneal surface, under conditions of constant addition and aspiration of fluid, to mimic tear flow. Six shampoo formulations were tested and were shown to differ widely in their corneal clearance time. Three groups could be identified according to the observed clearance times (fast, intermediate and slow); the reference shampoo had the shortest clearance time of all tested formulations. With this new system, it is now possible to investigate an important physicochemical parameter, i.e. corneal clearance time, for the consideration of ocular safety during the development of novel cosmetic formulations.

Occurrence of alkyl glucosides in rinse-off cosmetics marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin.

Rinse-off cosmetic products, primarily shampoos, are frequently implicated in the onset of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) caused by alkyl glucosides (AGs). AGs are increasingly popular surfactants and known contact allergens. Glucoside-induced ACD was most frequently observed with shampoos and skin-cleansing products in both consumer and occupational settings. Thereby, studies have shown that atopic individuals are the most susceptible to ACD. Also, several investigations have indicated that individuals with sensitive skin might be more prone to skin allergies. This is why the presence of AGs was investigated in shampoos and body cleansers marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin. For this purpose, the website of Amazon.com was surveyed. Four groups of cosmetics were obtained by using the following keywords: "hypoallergenic shampoo for adults," "sensitive skin shampoo for adults," "hypoallergenic body cleanser for adults," and "sensitive skin body cleanser for adults." The first 30 best-selling cosmetics in each group were investigated for the presence of AGs, by analyzing the product information pages. The results showed that as much as 56.7% of hypoallergenic shampoos contained AGs, as ingredients, whereas the percentage was somewhat lower for other product categories. Even though decyl and lauryl glucoside were nearly ubiquitously used AGs in cosmetics over the past decade, the most commonly present AG in our analysis was coco-glucoside. The results of this study indicated a necessity to include coco-glucoside in the baseline series of patch testing allergens. Industry, regulators, and healthcare providers should be made aware of the frequent presence of AGs in rinse-off cosmetic products marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin to ensure the safety and well-being of consumers and patients.

Evaluation of novel cosmetic shampoo formulations against Malassezia species: Preliminary results of anti-dandruff shampoo formulations.

OBJECTIVES: Malassezia species are common, clinically relevant, and lipid-dependent yeasts of humans. They are also the leading causes of the dandruff problem of humans, and the azoles are used primarily in their topical and systemic treatment. Resistance to azoles is an emerging problem among Malassezia sp., which indicates the need of new drug assessments that will be effective against dandruff and limit the use of azoles and other agents in treatment. Among them, the efficacy of various combinations of piroctone olamine and climbazole against Malassezia sp. is highly important. Here, we assessed the efficacies of various piroctone olamine and climbazole formulations against Malassezia sp. in comparison with ketoconazole. METHODS: A total of nine formulations were included in the study, where each formulation was prepared from different concentrations of piroctone olamine and climbazole and both. All formulations contained the same ingredients as water, surfactants, hair conditioning agents, and preservatives. Malassezia furfur CBS1878, Malassezia globosa CBS7874, and Malassezia sympodialis CBS9570 were tested for antifungal susceptibility of each formulation by agar diffusion method. Sizes of the inhibition zones were compared with standard medical shampoo containing 2% ketoconazole, and the data were analyzed by Dunnett's multiple-comparison test. RESULTS: For all Malassezia sp. strains, climbazole 0.5% and piroctone olamine/climbazole (0.1%/0.1% and 0.1%/0.5%) combinations were found to have the same effect as the medical shampoo containing 2% ketoconazole. Piroctone olamine/climbazole 1.0%/0.1% formulation showed the same efficacy as 2% ketoconazole on M. furfur and M. sympodialis, while 0.1%/0.5% formulation to only M. furfur. For M. globosa, none of the formulations tested were as effective as ketoconazole. CONCLUSION: The species distribution of Malassezia sp. varies depending on the anatomical location on the host. According to the results of this study, climbazole and piroctone olamine combinations seem to be promising options against the dandruff problem with their high antifungal/anti dandruff efficacy.

Preliminary evaluation of a commercial shampoo and fine bubble bathing in the treatment of canine atopic dermatitis: A single-blinded, randomised, controlled study.

BACKGROUND: Fine bubble (FB) bathing has shown benefits on a mouse model of atopic dermatitis (AD). However, its efficacy in dogs with AD remains to be evaluated. OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to assess the clinical effectiveness of FB bathing in dogs with AD. ANIMALS: Seventeen dogs with AD whose clinical presentation showed a Canine Atopic Dermatitis Extent and Severity Index, 4th iteration (CADESI-04) score of <40. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The dogs were randomly assigned to either the FB bathing group or the shampoo group. The treatments were administered once a week as per the instructions, in a trial totalling 4 weeks. Evaluations were conducted on Day (D)0 and D28 to assess the outcomes of the trial. The severity of AD was measured using the CADESI-04 and the pruritus Visual Analog Scale (PVAS). The skin barrier function parameters, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum hydration were measured before and after the treatment. RESULTS: Both treatment groups demonstrated a decreasing trend in CADESI-04 scores, yet the FB group exhibited significant improvement in comparison to the shampoo group after 1 month of trial. There were no significant changes in PVAS scores in either group. No significant difference was found in skin barrier function parameters between the two treatments, although TEWL slightly decreased in the FB group and slightly increased in the shampoo group after treatment. CONCLUSIONS AND CLINICAL RELEVANCE: These results suggested that FB treatment provides benefits for dogs with AD and offers an alternative topical treatment option with a lesser impact on skin barrier function compared to frequent shampooing.

A systematic review of association between use of hair products and benign and malignant gynecological conditions.

Hair products often contain chemicals like para-phenylenediamine (PPD) and endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs); giving rise to concerns about the possible adverse effects such as hormonal disturbances and carcinogenicity. The objective of this systematic review was to evaluate the association between the use of different hair products and benign and malignant gynecological conditions. Studies were identified from three databases including PubMed, Embase, and Scopus, and evaluated in accordance with PRISMA guidelines. The risk of bias was assessed using the Newcastle-Ottawa Scale. A total of 17 English-language studies met the inclusion criteria. Associations of hair relaxer or hair dye use with breast and ovarian cancer were observed in at least one well-designed study, but these findings were not consistent across studies. Further sub-analysis showed 1.08 times (95 % CI: 1.01-1.15) increased risk of breast cancer in females with permanent hair dye use. Chang et al. reported strong association between uterine cancer risk and hair relaxer use (HR 1.8, 95 % CI: 1.12-2.88), with no observed association with hair dye use. Studies conducted by Wise et al. and James-Todd et al. for benign gynecological conditions; including uterine leiomyoma (IRR 1.17, 95 % CI: 1.06-1.30), early onset of menarche (RR 1.4, 95 % CI: 1.1-1.9), and decreased fecundability (FR 0.89, 95 % CI: 0.81-0.98) revealed positive associations with hair relaxer use, but these findings were based on small sample sizes. In summary, the available evidence regarding personal use of hair products and gynecological conditions is insufficient to determine whether a positive association exists.

Scalp microbiome composition changes and pathway evaluations due to effective treatment with Piroctone Olamine shampoo.

OBJECTIVE: To characterize the scalp microbial composition, function, and connection to dandruff severity using a metagenomics approach and to understand the impact of a Piroctone Olamine containing anti-dandruff shampoo on the scalp microbiome. METHODS: Shotgun metagenomics was used to characterize the composition of the scalp microbiomes from 94 subjects with and without clinically defined dandruff. Furthermore, the microbiome of the scalps of 100 dandruff sufferers before and after 3 weeks of treatment with either control or anti-dandruff shampoo containing 0.5% Piroctone Olamine (PO) was characterized and compared to identify microorganisms associated with the dandruff condition and the associated pathways and processes that may contribute to PO's effect on scalp microbiome. RESULTS: A higher relative abundance of Malassezia restricta and Staphylococcus capitis and a lower abundance of Cutibacterium acnes were associated with the dandruff scalps relative to the no-dandruff scalps. A 3-week PO shampoo treatment reduced the relative abundance of Malassezia species and Staphylococcus capitis and increased the relative abundance of Cutibacterium acnes. This change to the scalp microbiome composition is consistent with a return to a healthy no-dandruff microbiome and improved clinical signs and symptoms as measured by adherent scalp flaking score (ASFS) compared with the control shampoo. Functional genomics analysis showed that the PO shampoo treatment reduced oxidative stress-associated genes and decreased the abundance of protease, urease, and lipase genes. These changes correlated positively to improvements in dandruff severity. PO treatment favourably shifted scalp microbiomes in dandruff subjects toward the no-dandruff state. CONCLUSION: Our results suggest that part of the aetiology of dandruff can be attributed to dysbiosis of the scalp microbiome. PO treatment can restore a healthier microbiome, reducing oxidative stress and promoting better scalp health.

OBJECTIF: Caractériser la composition microbienne du cuir chevelu, sa fonction et son lien avec la sévérité des pellicules à l'aide d'une approche métagénomique. Comprendre l'impact d'un shampooing antipelliculaire à base de piroctone olamine sur le microbiome du cuir chevelu. MÉTHODES: La métagénomique shotgun a été utilisée pour caractériser la composition des microbiomes du cuir chevelu de 94 sujets avec et sans pellicules définies cliniquement. Par ailleurs, le microbiome des cuirs chevelus de 100 personnes ayant des pellicules avant et après trois semaines de traitement par un shampooing témoin ou un shampooing antipelliculaire contenant 0,5 % de piroctone olamine (PO) a été caractérisé et comparé pour identifier les micro­organismes associés à l'état pelliculaire, et les voies et processus associés pouvant contribuer à l'effet de la PO sur le microbiome du cuir chevelu. RÉSULTATS: Une abondance relative plus élevée de Malassezia restricta et de Staphylococcus capitis, et une abondance plus faible de Cutibacterium acnes étaient associées aux cuirs chevelus avec des pellicules par rapport aux cuirs chevelus sans pellicules. Un traitement avec un shampooing contenant de la PO de 3 semaines a réduit l'abondance relative des espèces Malassezia et Staphylococcus capitis, et a augmenté l'abondance relative de Cutibacterium acnes. Cette modification de la composition du microbiome du cuir chevelu est cohérente avec un retour à un microbiome sain sans pellicules, et une amélioration des signes et symptômes cliniques mesurés par le score de desquamation du cuir chevelu adhérent (Adherent Scalp Flaking Score, ASFS) par rapport au shampooing témoin. L'analyse génomique fonctionnelle a montré que le traitement avec un shampooing contenant de la PO réduisait les gènes associés au stress oxydatif et diminuait l'abondance des gènes de la protéase, de l'uréase et de la lipase. Ces modifications étaient corrélées positivement à des améliorations de la sévérité des pellicules. Le traitement avec la PO a favorisé l'évolution des microbiomes du cuir chevelu des sujets ayant des pellicules vers un état sans pellicules. CONCLUSION: Nos résultats suggèrent qu'une partie de l'étiologie des pellicules peut être attribuée à la dysbiose du microbiome du cuir chevelu. Le traitement avec la PO peut rétablir un microbiome plus sain, en réduisant le stress oxydatif et en favorisant une meilleure santé du cuir chevelu.

Screening Allergenic Potencies of Skin-Contact Products Using the Human-Derived THP-1 Cell Activation Test.

With the prevalence of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) from the usage of skin-contact products, like wearable, skin care, and hair care products, screening their skin sensitizing potential is necessary, for the sake of alleviating the consequent public health impact. In the present study, a total of 77 skin-contact products classified by four categories, watch bands (WBs), skin care products (SCPs), hair care products (HCPs), and rubber gloves (RGs), were investigated, using an optimized in vitro assay of human cell line activation test (h-CLAT). Extracting the products using neutral artificial sweat simulated well the practical usage scenarios, and testing the extracts showed that 26 of them were allergy test positive, including nine WBs, six SCPs, two HCPs, and nine RGs. The allergenic response was mainly characterized by the induction of CD54 expression, and diverse paradigms of CD54 and CD86 levels were observed by analyzing dose-response curves, which could also be influenced by the compromised viability of the THP-1 cells. The data implicated the intricate regulation by different contributors to suspicious ingredients in the test samples. Altogether, a promising methodology for testing skin allergy potential was well established for commonly used commodities by neutral artificial sweat extraction coupled with h-CLAT screening. The findings would be of great help in tracing the potential allergens in practical products and improving their qualities.

Avaliação das propriedades das fibras capilares tratadas com alisante ácido com diferentes valores de pH / Evaluation of hair fibers properties treated with acid straightener at different pH values

Os produtos para alisamento das fibras capilares são amplamente utilizados no Brasil principalmente, pelo público feminino. Porém, estes procedimentos podem causar danos ao cabelo do usuário e, também, para o profissional que está atuando. Os alisantes químicos podem ser divididos em dois grupos: alcalinos e ácidos. Os primeiros (tioglicolato de amônio e os hidróxidos de sódio ou guanidina) apresentam valor de pH elevado (superior a 9,0) e alisam por meio da quebra e reorganização das pontes de dissulfeto (S-S) presentes na queratina, proteína estrutural da fibra capilar. Os alisantes ácidos como o formaldeído, ácido glioxílico e seus associados, possuem pH baixo (≥ 2,0) e causam uma reorganização no interior da fibra e geralmente leva a formação de um filme na superfície do fio. O ácido glioxílico associado à carbocisteína e aminoácidos (nomenclatura INCI -International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredient apresentada entre parênteses) (Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine (and) Glyoxyloyl Keratin Aminoacids (and) Water) é o único ingrediente permitido ao uso como alisante ácido até o momento. O objetivo deste trabalho foi estudar o efeito deste alisante ácido incorporado em uma emulsão óleo e água (O/A) com valores de pH 1,0 e 2,0 (com reaplicações); e o impacto que podem causar nas propriedades mecânicas e químicas da fibra capilar, como força de ruptura, coloração, elasticidade e teor de triptofano da fibra capilar. E também o efeito da radiação ultravioleta nos fios alisados. Nos testes realizados observou-se que as mechas tratadas com a emulsão a pH 1,0 obtiveram melhor resultado de alinhamento das cutículas e capacidade alisante da fibra, com penteabilidade superior ao cabelo virgem (59,4 %), enquanto as mechas com a formulação pH 2,0 foi apenas 33,0%. Entretanto, a força de tração para a ruptura do fio foi inferior, diminuindo em 16,0% (pH 1,0) e 9,0 % (pH 2,0). Quanto a variação da coloração, a variação do tom de cor foi mais exacerbada para as mechas tratadas com a formulação em pH 1,0. O teor de triptofano foi inferior nas mechas alisadas com a formulação pH 1,0. Para o teste de DSC e Raman, ambas as mechas tratadas apresentaram modificações nas suas estruturas. As fibras alisadas e expostas à radiação UV apresentaram danos maiores nas cutículas, e certa proteção na degradação de proteínas em relação aquelas sem tratamento e irradiadas ao UV. Considerando as reaplicações do produto alisante ácido, quanto maior o número de aplicações, mais alinhadas e seladas tornaram se as fibras, mas mais rígida e suscetível à quebra ficaram. Devemos considerar a importância do valor do pH da formulação no impacto do alisamento e dano da fibra capilar

Hair straightening products are widely used in Brazil by the female public. However, these procedures can cause damage to the hair shaft and to professional´s and client´s health. Chemical straighteners can be divided into two groups: alkaline and acid. Alkaline straighteners has a very high pH value (> 9.0) and the straightening process is due to the break followed by reorganization of the disulfide bridges (S-S) present in the keratin, a structural protein of the hair shaft. Some examples of alkaline straighteners are ammonium thioglycolate and sodium or guanidine hydroxides. On the other hand, acid straighteners like formaldehyde, glyoxylic acid, and their associated, present a low pH value (≥ 2.0), which causes a rearranging within the fiber, and sometimes creates a film on the surface of the hair. Nowadays, the glyoxylic acid associated with carbocysteine and amino acids (INCI - International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredient nomenclature presented in parentheses) (Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine (and) Glyoxyloyl Keratin Aminoacids (and) Water) is the only acid straightener permitted. Therefore, the objective of this work is to study the effect of this acid straightener, incorporated into oil in water (o/w) base emulsions at two different pH values 1.0 and 2.0 ( with reapplication) on the mechanical and physicochemical properties of the hair shaft. Also, the impact of UV radiation in straightened tresses. In the experiments conducted, it was possible to observe that tresses treated with the emulsion at pH 1.0 had a better result on the alignment and the straightening capacity, improving the combing test (59.4%/), while the tresses with the formulation at pH 2.0, 33.0%. However, the tensile strength, to pH 1.0 decreased by 16.0% and to pH 2.0 only 9.0%. As for color, the difference when compared with virgin hair it was major at pH 1.0. The tryptophan content also was lower in tresses treated at pH 1, 0. For the DSC and Raman analyzes all the treated tresses presented modifications in their structure. Straightened strands exposed to radiation had major damage in the cuticles, and some protection in proteins degradation compared to untreated tresses exposed to radiation. Considering the reapplications of the straightening product, as higher the number of applications more aligned and sealed it becomes, however the hair fiber becomes stiffer and susceptible to breakage. Thats why we should consider the importance of the pH value in the product, and the impact of straightening and damage of the hai fiber

Influence of different cosmetic vehicles in mechanical and physical properties of hair treated with oxidative hair dyes

ABSTRACT Hair care products play a significant role in the cosmetic market and aim at improving hair brightness, breakage resistance, and color change. In this study, we analyzed the possibility of the formulation of oxidative dyes in different vehicles impacting the hair's both mechanical and physical properties. Light brown and light blond dyes were prepared using eight different vehicles. Among these, four vehicles were emulsifying agents and four gelling agents. Each formulation was applied to two types of virgin Caucasian hair (light blond and dark brown). Physical, chemical, and organoleptic properties of each formulation were assessed, as well as changes in hair parameters after oxidative dyeing, such as staining intensity, brightness, and breaking strength. The parameters of color and brightness differed in some formulations, but the hair type also responded differently. Brightness parameter was increased in dark brown hair colored with both dyes, whereas light blond hair showed the opposite result. Regarding the breaking strength, there were no significant differences between the two kinds of tresses. Cosmetic formulations should adjust the consumer desired effects (e.g. color change) in order to present minimal drawbacks (e.g. decrease of hair brightness and strength). Thus, the study of different vehicles is important when establishing the best oxidative dye formulation.

Correlation between rheological properties and capillary fixation for modelling creams

The Brazilian male beauty market occupies the second place in world consumption of cosmetics. Among the numerous products consumed by such audience is the capillary fixation mask, which is mainly composed by fixatives. These additives act on stabilizing the cosmetic emulsion, protecting the hair against moisture and also increasing the intensity of hair fixation. In this work, three formulations for modelling creams were prepared by different concentrations of the fixatives StylezeTM W20 and PVP K90 and their properties characterized by physicochemical, rheological and sensory analysis. The capillary masks produced were stable oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions with uniform droplets of 2.05-2.82 µm sizes and pseudoplastic thixotropic behavior (0.19 < n < 0.26). It was possible to correlate the increased concentration of PVP K90 to a greater thixotropy and an improved yarn fixation, despite the worsening in the spreadability of the formulations. These results suggest properly conducted rheological measurements can contribute to the prediction of the emulsion's sensory properties, which can save time and funds on the development of new cosmetics

Hair straighteners: an approach based on science and consumer profile

Technological progress has allowed women to change their natural hair configuration according to their will. This type of treatment is very popular around the world, even involving the use of prohibited chemicals, such as formaldehyde. Studies of hair characterization, straighteners and toxic evaluation are available in the literature, although few studies have evaluated the consumer profile or the current legislation of Brazil and the European Union (EU) and its influence on the consumption of hair straighteners. Previous studies from our research group have shown that hair care is essential for the quality of life and well-being of women. Within this context, the present study aimed to evaluate the profile of Brazilian hair straightener consumers, as well as the legislation of Brazil and the EU and its influence on the use of these products. The consumer profile was evaluated by applying questionnaires and the legislation was examined using documental and bibliographic exploratory research. The results provided a full understanding of the current legislation of Brazil and its similarities to EU legislation. It was observed that over 50% of Brazilians currently use or have previously used hair straightener products, even persons who do not have curly hair, suggesting that straight hair is more attractive for today's society. Although the study participants consider the current legislation to be important, over 40% do not know the active ingredients present in the hair straightener they use. Finally, the legislation is not considered in terms of the daily hair treatment routine, with the esthetic result being more important to the consumer

Avaliação qualitativa e quantitativa de formaldeído em produtos cosméticos para alisamento capilar / Qualitative and quantitative evaluation of formaldehyde in cosmetic products for hair straightening

O formaldeído, comercializado em solução aquosa a 37% (p/p), é um líquido incolor com odor forte e irritante. A presença deste agente cancerígeno em cremes cosméticos resulta em graves riscos à saúde tais como irritação, queimaduras na pele, ferimentos nas vias respiratórias e danos irreversíveis aos olhos e cabelos provocados pela inalação e contato com o produto. Seu uso foi permitido em concentração ≤ 0,2% (p/p) como conservante pela Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária (ANVISA; Brasil, 2001) até junho de 2014, e a substância era adicionada a produtos cosméticos utilizados em escovas progressivas com a finalidade de alisar os cabelos. Diante dos riscos verificados com a utilização da substância, objetivou-se determinar qualitativa e quantitativamente, a incidência deste aldeído em produtos para alisamento capilar, a fim de estimar a concentração que os profissionais e usuários estão expostos, para garantir sua segurança. Observouse que 84,6% das amostras analisadas apresentaram alguma irregularidade, sendo que 61,5% das amostras analisadas apresentaram maior quantidade de formaldeído do que era permitido pela legislação (Brasil, 2001) como conservante e 53,8% apresentou mais de 10 vezes o percentual permitido, concentração irritante para a população em geral. Tendo em vista a gravidade dos dados apresentados, é necessária uma rígida fiscalização da qualidade dos alisantes capilares e estratégias de conscientização sobre riscos à saúde do contato com a substância.

Formaldehyde marketed in a 37% (w/w) aqueous solution is a colorless liquid with a strong irritating odor. The presence of this carcinogen in cosmetics creams results in serious health risks, such as irritation, skin burns, airway injury and irreversible damage to the eyes and hair caused by inhalation and contact with the product. Although its use was allowed up to a concentration of 0.2% (w/w) as a preservative by Brazilian Health Surveillance Agency (ANVISA; Brazil, 2001) until June 2014, the substance is added to cosmetic products used in progressive brushes in order to straighten hair. Given the risks seen with the use of the substance, the objective was to determine qualitatively and quantitatively this aldehyde in products for hair straightening in order to estimate the concentration that professionals involved and users are exposed to ensure their safety. It was observed that 84.6% of the samples showed some irregularity, being that 61.5% of the samples have a higher amount of formaldehyde than allowed by law (Brazil, 2001) as preservative and 53.8% had more than 10 times the allowable percentage, irritating concentration for the general population. Considering the severity of the data presented, it is need a strict quality supervision hair straightening products and strategies to increase awareness about health risks from contact with the substance.

Black women’s hair: the main scalp dermatoses and aesthetic practices in women of African ethnicity

Abstract:Afro-ethnic hair is different from Caucasian and Asian hair and has unique features. Ethnic hair is more prone to certain conditions or diseases. Such diseases are not only related to the fragile inner structure of the hair, but also to the cultural habits of hairstyles that often exert traction forces upon the pilosebaceous follicle. Women with African hair subject their hair to chemical treatments such as hair straightening and relaxing, and thus modify the structure of their hair shaft, making it more susceptible to damage. For this reason, hair complaints are common among black women and represent a diagnostic challenge to the dermatologist, requiring a thorough clinical examination of the hair and scalp, and a detailed medical history of the patient. The purpose of this review is to warn of the potential side effects and sequelae related to hairstyles and hair treatments used by black women, and to highlight the major diseases that affect this ethnicity.

Delineamento de formulações cosméticas com óleo essencial de Lippia gracilis Schum (Alecrim-de- Tabuleiro) de origem amazônica / Outline of cosmetic formulations with essential oil Lippia gracilis Schum (Alecrim-de-Tabuleiro) of the amazon

Diversos cosméticos têm sido produzidos para atender a crescente demanda de mercado. Para que estes produtos possuam boa aceitação são necessárias que os mesmos apresentem adequadas características físicoquímicas e sensoriais, bem como eficácia, segurança e qualidade. Esse trabalho visou o desenvolvimento e avaliação da estabilidade de formulações biocosméticas a partir da incorporação dos óleos essenciais da espécie Lippia gracilis Schum em formulações cosméticas para cabelo, por meio de estudos de pré-formulação e testes de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada. Foram realizados testes físico-químicos para avaliação dos parâmetros: pH, viscosidade aparente, características sensoriais, espuma e densidade. Durante os estudos de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada, foi observado que as temperaturas: Refrigerador (TG) (5,0 ± 0,5ºC) e Estufa (TE) (45,0 ± 0,5ºC) sofreram alterações de pH, viscosidade e das características sensoriais. Ao final do estudo, mantiveram as características iniciais, apenas as formulações mantidas em temperatura ambiente. Concluiu-se que a formulação de xampu não possui estabilidade quando exposta a temperaturas abaixo de 5ºC e acima de 45ºC. A formulação de condicionador, além de ser instável em temperaturas extremas, apresentou também alterações após 30 dias (T2) em temperatura ambiente (TA) (24,0 ± 2,0ºC).(AU)

Several cosmetics have been produced to meet the growing market demand. For these products have good acceptance is necessary that they show suitable physico-chemical and organoleptic characteristics, as well as efficacy, safety and quality. This research aimed at the development and evaluation of the stability of formulations biocosmetics from the incorporation of the essential oils of the species Lippia gracilis Schum in shampoo and conditioner through preliminary stability testing and accelerated. Physico-chemical tests for evaluation of the parameters were performed: pH, viscosity, sensory characteristics, lather and density. During the stability studies and preliminary accelerated, it was observed that the formulations subjected to extreme temperatures, such as: Refrigerator (TG) (5.0 ± 0.5 ° C) and hot air oven (TE) (45.0 ± 0.5 ° C), undergone changes in pH, viscosity and sensory characteristics. At the end of the study maintained the initial characteristics, only formulations maintained at room temperature. It was concluded that the shampoo formulation lacks stability when exposed to temperatures below 5 ° C and above 45 ° C. And the conditioner formulation in addition to being unstable in extreme temperatures, also showed changes after 30 days (T2) at room temperature (RT) (24.0 ± 2.0 ° C).(AU)

Avaliação in vitro do efeito de diferentes processos de alisamento químico/térmico na fibra capilar / In vitro evaluation of the straightening effect by different chemical/thermal processes in the hair fiber

A aparência dos cabelos é de fundamental importância na sociedade atual. Estando em moda, cabelos mais lisos e com menos volume, os consumidores que antes os alisavam com produtos químicos e força mecânica, passaram a utilizar um tratamento térmico, além do secador de cabelos: as piastras ("chapinhas") que atuam em valores de temperatura ao redor de 230°C. Esse procedimento ocasiona além dos danos mecânicos e químicos também dano térmico, tornando os cabelos ainda mais fragilizados. O escopo deste estudo foi avaliar o dano na fibra capilar, de amostras não tratadas e nas que receberam aplicação de alisantes/relaxantes tradicionais e alternativos. O estudo foi dividido em cinco capítulos que avaliam: aplicação dos alisantes/relaxantes com ingredientes ativos distintos; danos mecânicos, perda Protéica; análise térmica e microscopia eletrônica de varredura. As amostras de cabelo utilizadas em todos os estudos foram tratadas como descrito no primeiro capítulo. Foram aplicados produtos comerciais contendo os seguintes ingredientes ativos: Hidróxido de Sódio, Tioglicolato de Amônio, Hidróxido de Guanidina (reação de hidróxido de cálcio com carbonato de guanidina), formaldeído e ácido glioxílico isolado e em combinação com carbocisteína. O uso de formaldeído e ácido glioxilico em formulações de alisantes/relaxantes está proibido pela Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária. Todos os produtos aplicados alisaram os cabelos; os procedimentos que utilizaram a piastra tornaram os fios mais lisos. Os alisantes/relaxantes à base de ácido glioxilico e formaldeído reduziram de forma expressiva a tensão de ruptura dos cabelos tornando-os mais frágeis. A maior perda protéica foi observada na amostra tratada com carbocisteína (1,74 mg/g cabelo). Nos estudos de análise térmica, na fase de desidratação a amostra tratada com carbocisteína apresentou maior perda de massa (15,17%); na fase de denaturação da proteína, a tratada com hidróxido de sódio (51,06%); e na fase de eliminação do material carbonáceo, todas as amostras apresentaram perda de massa maior que a amostra não tratada; as menores temperaturas de pico foram as das amostras sem tratamento alisante (630°C) e ácido glioxílico (640°C). Observando-se as imagens de microscopia eletrônica nota-se modificação nas bordas das cutículas das amostras indicando que sofreram agressão; o hidróxido de guanidina deixou adicionalmente resíduo; as amostras tratadas com ácido glioxílico e formaldeído apresentaram a formação de filme superficial como um "envelopamento" da fibra. Os resultados sugerem que não há predominância de um procedimento mais danoso que os demais; porém os que utilizaram a piastra (alisamentos/relaxamento ácidos) acentuaram os danos

The appearance of the hair is of fundamental importance in today's society. Being in fashion, hair straight and with less volume, consumers that before straighted hair with chemicals products and mechanical strength began to use a heat treatment, in addition to hair dryers: the hot plates ("chapinhas") acting on temperature values around 230°C. This procedure causes not only mechanical and chemical damage but also thermal one, making the hair more fragile. The scope of this study was to evaluate the damage to the hair fiber, in untreated samples and these receiving straighteners/relaxers application of traditional and alternative products.The study was divided into five chapters that evaluated: application of straighteners/relaxers with different active ingredients; mechanical damage, protein loss; thermal analysis and scanning electron microscopy. The hair samples used in all studies were treated as described in the chapter one. Commercial products containing the following active ingredients were used: Sodium Hydroxide, Ammonium Thioglycolate, Guanidine Hydroxide (calcium hydroxide reaction with guanidine carbonate), Formaldehyde and Glyoxylic Acid alone and in combination with Carbocysteine. The use of Formaldehyde andGlyoxylicAcid in straightening/relaxing formulations are prohibited by the National Agency for Sanitary Vigilance. All applied products, straight the hair samples; the procedures that used the hot plates become the hair more straight. The straightening/relaxing based on Glyoxylic Acid and Formaldehyde reduced significantly the hair break point making them more fragile. Most protein loss was observed in the sample treated with Carbocysteine (1.74mg/g hair).In the thermal analysis studies at the dewatering stage, Carbocystein treated samples showed greater weight loss(15.17%), at the protein denaturation stage this treated with Sodium Hydroxide (51.06%) and in the carbonaceous material elimination phase all samples showed mass loss greater than the untreated sample;. The lower peak temperatures were observed in the samples without treatment (630°C) and with Glyoxylic Acid (640°C). Observing the images of electron microscopy is noted the change in the cuticle aspect of the samples showing that the edges were damaged, Guanidine Hydroxide, left further residue: the samples treated with Glyoxylic Acid and Formaldehyde showed the formation of surface film as an "enveloping" fiber. The results suggest that there is not a predominance of a more harmful treatment than other, but those using hot plates(straightening/relaxing acids) emphasize the damage