A Novel Protection and Repair Skincare Regimen Shows Efficacy for Improving Environmental Skin Aging.

BACKGROUND: Skin aging is accelerated by environmental exposures including solar radiation and pollutants. Thus, protecting skin from environmental exposure and repairing ensuing damage is essential for keeping skin healthy and appearing youthful. PURPOSE: To evaluate the clinical benefits of a novel skincare regimen designed to provide comprehensive environmental protection in the daytime and repair environmentally damaged skin at night. METHODS: Thirty participants, including males and females, with mild-to-moderate extrinsic aging, were enrolled in a 12-week single-site study. Participants used the regimen (The Essential Six, RATIONALE, Victoria, Australia) comprised of 3 products to protect the skin in the morning and 3 products to repair the skin at night. Participants were seen at baseline and evaluated for efficacy and tolerability at weeks 2, 6, and 12. Non-invasive measurements to evaluate hydration, transepidermal water loss, skin tone, and elasticity were conducted. RESULTS: The dermatologist investigator noted across-the-board improvement in all evaluated parameters, except deep wrinkles. By week 12, there were statistically significant (P<0.001) improvements in radiance (43%), tactile roughness (48%), visual roughness (44%), firmness (32%), clarity/even skin tone (21%), and overall appearance (29%). Fine lines improved 16% at week 12 (P=0.002). Participant self-assessment revealed statistically significant and progressive improvement in all evaluated parameters over time. No tolerability issues were identified by the investigator, while a small number of participants reported mild stinging and some dryness that resolved over time. This was likely due to the high concentration of active ingredients found in this regimen. Corneometry revealed improved skin hydration of 28% as early as week 2. CONCLUSION: The data presented confirms that this novel protection and repair regimen improves the appearance of environmentally aged skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(10):866-872. doi:10.36849/JDD.8274.

Barriers and facilitators to skin cancer prevention among Hispanics: a qualitative study.

BACKGROUND: In the past two decades, melanoma incidence among Hispanic people has risen greatly. This qualitative study explored Hispanic people's perceived barriers and facilitators to skin cancer-related preventive behaviors. METHODS: Five focus groups among Hispanic people (2 in Spanish and 3 in English; n = 34; 11 Spanish-preferring and 23 English-preferring) were conducted, where participants discussed their perceptions and behaviors relating to skin cancer, sun protection, and skin self-examination. Additionally, healthcare providers (n = 9) and Hispanic community leaders (n = 6) were recruited for individual interviews to complement the results of focus groups. A thematic analysis was conducted on all transcripts. RESULTS: Perceived barriers to sun protection included: 1) Low levels of knowledge and awareness/misperception; 2) low perceived importance or not a priority, 3) economic issues or limited access, 4) downsides/concerns about engaging in sun protection behaviors, and 5) Hispanic cultural norms (e.g., machismo). Facilitators to sun protection included: 1) relevance/care for family, 2) negative consequences of sun exposure, and 3) Hispanic cultural norms (e.g., familismo). Barriers to skin examination included: 1) low levels of knowledge and awareness, 2) lack of insurance coverage or access, and 3) difficulty or discomfort associated with practicing skin self-examination. Facilitators to skin examination included: 1) relevance/previous experience and 2) having insurance coverage or access. CONCLUSIONS: Future interventions should focus on individual, community, and system-level strategies to address misperceptions in the Hispanic community, increase knowledge and awareness, address perceptions of cultures regarding skin cancer preventive activities, and emphasize the importance or priority of health issues related to skin cancer.

Sun-protection factor of zinc-oxide sunscreens: SPFin vitro too low compared to SPFin vivo-a brief review.

Sunscreens are mainly characterized by their sun-protection factor (SPF), which is measured according to the in vivo gold standard ISO 24444. Although the SPF concept is simple, SPF values are difficult to measure, due to the rather high variability caused by the complex interaction of light and skin. For half a century, there have been attempts to correlate the costly and ethically controversial in vivo procedure with a non-invasive (in vitro) method. After decades of development, alternative non-invasive SPF methods are expected to become available as ISO standards in early 2025. In particular, sunscreen manufacturers who use zinc oxide (ZnO) in higher concentrations (conc.) (10-25%) in their formulations, are concerned that these new in vitro methods would not confirm the SPF-values on their labels that have been determined in vivo, according to ISO 24444. This brief review reveals that sunscreen formulations with high conc. of ZnO often yield SPFin vitro values that are lower than the SPFin vivo values. This can be explained by the fact that in vitro methods have been developed for conventional emulsions products with organic UV filters, but not for highly concentrated ZnO-alone sunscreens. Fortunately, there seems to be a fix for this problem. There is a difference in density between ordinary emulsions with organic filters (density of the residual oil phase ~ 1.0 g/ml) and highly concentrated ZnO-alone formulations (~ 1.3-1.7 g/ml). As the application of current standards is weight-based, this makes the film on the PMMA plate much thinner, which is likely to lead to lower SPFin vitro values. Preliminary experiments show that using the same volume on the PMMA plates instead of the same weight as organic UV filters gives a much better correlation between in vitro and in vivo SPF results. A recent evaluation of three samples of highly concentrated ZnO sunscreens by the Dutch NVWA seems to confirm these findings. Further experimental evidence is required to fully understand this phenomenon and to adapt the in vitro method for higher conc. ZnO formulations accordingly.

Photoprotective Effects of Yeast Pulcherrimin.

Sunscreen products can protect the skin against the harmful effects of UV radiation, including reddening, aging, and cancer. The aim of this research was to evaluate the photoprotective effects of yeast pulcherrimin, an iron-chelating dipeptide. We first investigated the cytotoxicity of pulcherrimin produced by Metschnikowia pulcherrima yeast on the human keratinocyte HaCaT cell line, using the PrestoBlue assay. We assessed the ability of pulcherrimin to induce DNA repair after the exposure of HaCaT cells to oxidative stress. We also evaluated its protective activity against UVC radiation. The sun protective factor (SPF) was calculated using the Mansur equation. The UVA/UVB ratio values for pure pulcherrimin were evaluated using the Boots Star Rating system. The critical wavelength was determined by calculating the integrated optical density curve area. Based on the results, pulcherrimin shows strong cytoprotective effects through antioxidant and photoprotective activities on the HaCaT cell line. The calculated SPFs were 20 and 15 at pH = 7 and pH = 10, respectively. The critical wavelength above 370 nm and the UVA/UVB ratio R > 1 suggest that yeast pulcherrimin-a cyclic dipeptide containing iron-may be considered a promising photoprotective agent.

Effect of Reactive Oxygen Species Photoproduced in Different Water Matrices on the Photostability of Gadusolate and Mycosporine-Serinol.

In the past few years, there has been an increasing interest in mycosporines-UV-absorbing molecules-bringing important insights into their intrinsic properties as natural sunscreens. Herein, mycosporine-serinol and gadusol (enolate form)/gadusolate were exposed to UV radiation via a solar simulator and the photostability was assessed in pure water and different natural matrices like river, estuary and ocean water. In general, this study revealed that the photodegradation of gadusolate and mycosporine-serinol was higher in natural matrices than in pure water due to the generation of singlet oxygen on UV irradiation. In pure water, in terms of photostability, both gadusolate and mycosporine-serinol were found to offer good protection and high performance in terms of photodegradation quantum yield ((0.8 ± 0.2) × 10-4 and (1.1 ± 0.6) × 10-4, respectively). Nonetheless, the photostability of mycosporine-serinol was found to be superior to that of gadusolate in natural water, namely, ocean, estuary and river. The present work highlights how mycosporine-serinol and gadusolate resist photodegradation, and supports their role as effective and stable UV-B sunscreens.

Positive Impact of UV Photography on Individual Sun Protection: A Swiss Feasibility Study.

Objectives: This study evaluates the feasibility and impact of conveying personalized sun protection message supported by a UV photograph of the face in Switzerland. Methods: 440 adults from 14 private and public sites associated with high sun exposure received a skin cancer prevention intervention composed of a facial UV-filtered photograph and individual counselling by a trained registered nurse. Pre-/post intervention surveys assessed sun protection of participants, their skin cancer risk and reasons for behavioural change. Results: The range of facial UV spots' count per individual was very broad (0-590) and mainly determined by phototype, followed by age. Three months after the intervention, 61% of participants positively changed their sun protection habit both during leisure and at work. Use of all sun protection means increased. No factor could be specifically associated to that propension for change. The individualized message was perceived as the main motivation for change. Conclusion: Personalized sun protection messages supported by a facial UV photograph led to significant favourable behavioural change in a highly sun-exposed population of adults.

The Tiny Big Difference: Nanotechnology in Photoprotective Innovations - A Systematic Review.

UV radiation causes long- and short-term skin damage, such as erythema and skin cancer. Therefore, the use of sunscreens is extremely important. However, concerns about UV filter safety have prompted exploration into alternative solutions, with nanotechnology emerging as a promising avenue. This systematic review identified 23 experimental studies utilizing nanocarriers to encapsulate sunscreens with the aim of enhancing their efficacy and safety. Polymeric and lipid nanoparticles are frequently employed to encapsulate both organic and inorganic UV filters along with natural antioxidants. Nanocarriers have demonstrated benefits including reduced active ingredient usage, increased sun protection factor, and mitigated photoinstability. Notably, they also decreased the skin absorption of UV filters. In summary, nanocarriers represent a viable strategy for improving sunscreen formulations, offering enhanced physicochemical properties and bolstered photoprotective effects, thereby addressing concerns regarding UV filter safety and efficacy in cosmetic applications.

Thyroid, neurodevelopmental, and kidney toxicities of common organic UV filters in embryo-larval zebrafish (Danio rerio), and their potential links.

Organic UV filters (OUVFs) have been commonly used in sunscreen and many consumer products. Following dermal application, these compounds can enter circulation and may cause systemic effects in humans. In the present study, we chose four OUVFs frequently detected in the environment, i.e., avobenzone (AVB), benzophenone-3 (BP-3), octocrylene (OC), and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), and evaluated their thyroid, neurodevelopmental, and kidney toxicities. For this purpose, zebrafish embryos (<4 h post fertilization, hpf) were exposed to sublethal concentrations of AVB, BP-3, OC, or OMC until 120 hpf. Exposure to all OUVFs decreased thyroid hormone (TH) levels, probably by enhanced metabolism and excretion of THs (ugt1ab and/or sult1 st5) in the larval fish. Exposure to the OUVFs also induced hypoactivities and/or anxiety-like behaviors: Regulatory changes of mbp, gfap, c-fos, syn2a, sty1a, and stxbp1b genes, support the changes in normal neurobehavior of the larval fish. Moreover, the OUVFs exposure caused increased proteinuria in the fish, along with transcriptional changes of wt1, nephrin, podocin, and cdh17 genes, which could explain the observed reduction in kidney functions. Principal component analysis (PCA) implied the potential interplay of THs with neurogenesis, or podocyte differentiation of the larval fish. Toxicological consequences of altered TH homeostasis, neurobehavior, and kidney function at the early life stage warrant further investigations not only in humans but also in aquatic ecosystems.

Phenolic Constituents, Photoprotective Effect, and Antioxidant Capacities of Achillea ligustica All.

The present investigation was performed to figure out the chemical constituents and biological potential of polar extracts (AcOEt and BuOH) from Achillea ligustica, a medicinal species of the Asteraceae family. Liquid chromatography quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (LC-Q-TOF-MS) was utilized to conduct a preliminary analysis of the phytochemical profiles of the AcOEt and BuOH extracts. The analysis revealed the existence of twenty compounds in the AcOEt extract and twenty-two in the BuOH extract, classified into various types of secondary metabolites. Subsequently, the exudate from the plant yielded five flavonoids, including two 6-methoxyflavonols identified for the first time in this genus. The isolation of compounds from AcOEt and BuOH extracts was achieved through the combined use of column chromatography (silica gel and Sephadex LH-20) and preparative TLC chromatography. The structures have been elucidated using 1D and 2D NMR spectroscopy, alongside comparisons with research data. Our study measured the total phenolic and flavonoid contents and carried out a comprehensive range of antioxidant tests using DPPH, GOR, CUPRAC, reducing power, and O-phenanthroline assays. Both extracts exhibited considerable antioxidant potential and contained high levels of phenolic and flavonoid compounds. The photoprotective effect of the AcOEt and BuOH extracts was evaluated in vitro by measuring the sun protection factor. Both extracts exhibited a high capacity for UV radiation absorption. Consequently, this plant presents an intriguing prospect for future research focused on incorporating it into photoprotective cosmetic products and pharmaceutical formulations.

Sun protection knowledge and behaviors of agricultural workers in Turkey: a cross-sectional study.

BACKGROUND: Agricultural workers are at risk of developing skin cancer due to prolonged exposure to the sun during their daily work. This study was conducted to determine sun protection knowledge and behaviours of agricultural workers in Turkey. METHODS: The cross-sectional study was conducted with 460 participants working in agriculture. The data were collected using a sociodemographic form, Skin Cancer and Sun Knowledge Scale and Sun Protection Behaviour Scale. The data were analysed using One Way ANOVA and Independent Samples t Test. RESULTS: Participants mean total score on the Skin Cancer and Sun Knowledge Scale was 15.24 ± 2.47 (max-min 0-25) and the mean total score on the Sun Protection Behaviour Scale was 24.10 ± 4.46 (max-min 8-40). Statistically significant disparities were observed between the SCBS, SPBS and their sub-divisions along with the working period, age, marital status, gender, level of education, income status, skin type and agricultural working status of the participants (p < .05). CONCLUSION: The study found that people working in the agriculture had inadequate sun protection behaviours and knowledge. Based on the study's results, it is proposed to create intervention programmes that specifically target single, male, middle-aged or older individuals with extended working hours and low levels of education and income.

Understudied and underestimated impacts of organic UV filters on terrestrial ecosystems.

Organic UV filters (OUVFs) are vital components in various personal care products (PCPs) and commercial goods, with the annual consumption estimated at 10,000 tons. Consequently, the unavoidable use of OUVFs in PCPs and other unregulated commercial applications could present a considerable risk to human and environmental health. These chemical entities enter terrestrial ecosystems through wastewater discharge, agriculture, atmospheric deposition, and recreational activities. Compared to aqueous ecosystems, the effects of OUVFs on terrestrial environments should be more studied and potentially underestimated. The present review addresses the abovementioned gap by summarizing 189 studies conducted between 2006 and 2024, focusing on the analytical measures, occurrence, and ecotoxicological effects of OUVFs on terrestrial ecosystems. These studies underscore the harmful effects of certain OUVFs on the development, reproduction, and endocrine systems of terrestrial organisms, highlighting the necessity for comprehensive toxicological assessments to understand their impacts on non-target species in terrestrial ecosystems. Besides, by underscoring the ecological effects of OUVFs, this review aims to guide future research and inform regulatory measures to mitigate the risks posed by these widespread contaminants. Meanwhile, interdisciplinary research is essential, integrating environmental science, toxicology, ecology, and chemistry to tackle OUVF challenges in terrestrial ecosystems.

A Cosmetic Regimen Formulated to Address the Multi-Modal Pathogenesis of Rosacea Demonstrates Efficacy for Treating Facial Redness and Skin's Appearance.

BACKGROUND: The treatment of rosacea is complicated as there are multiple pathogenic factors in play resulting in a myriad of clinical signs and symptoms including facial redness. OBJECTIVE: The primary objective was to evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of a non-prescription anti-redness regimen in patients with rosacea. METHODS: Thirty subjects with rosacea-induced facial erythema were enrolled in this single site, monadic study. The test regimen consisted of a treatment serum, redness-reducing moisturizer, and sunscreen. The test products are formulated with ingredients curated to address the multifactorial pathogenesis of facial redness. Investigator and subject self-assessment for efficacy and tolerability were performed at baseline, weeks 4 and 8. Non-invasive assessments for facial redness and skin hydration were conducted at all time points. RESULTS: Investigator grading showed significant improvement in facial redness of 21% at week 4 and 32% at week 8. Skin's appearance improved as early as 4 weeks while at 8 weeks there was statistically significant improvement in fine lines 15%, radiance/brightness 37%, tactile roughness 44%, visual roughness 41%, and 26% in overall appearance. Non-invasive assessments showed statistically significant improvement in skin hydration of 28% at week 4 and facial redness of 21% by week 8. No tolerability issues were identified by the investigator. CONCLUSION: Patients with rosacea often turn to over-the-counter products to reduce facial redness and improve skin's appearance. In this study, a cosmetic skincare regimen designed to reduce facial redness demonstrated efficacy and tolerability in subjects with rosacea. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(9):757-763. doi:10.36849/JDD.8460.

How to fight acute sun damage? Current skin care strategies.

Excessive exposure to sunlight can contribute for skin photo-damage, such as sunburn, dryness, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, immunosuppressive events and skin sensitization reactions. The use of aftersun products is an effective strategy to reduce the visible signs and symptoms of acute photodamage in the skin. Aiming to unveil the active ingredients able to offset acute sun damage, this work focuses on the characterization of the aftersun products market. A total of 84 after-sun formulations from 41 international brands currently marketed in Portugal were analyzed concerning the composition described on the product label, identifying natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients with the ability to mitigate solar-induced effects. The majority of aftersun formulations contained ingredients derived from terrestrial and marine sources (> 80%). An in-depth examination of these compounds is also offered, revealing the top of the most used natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients present in aftersun products, as well as their mechanism of action. A critical appraisal of the scientific data was made aiming to highlight the scientific evidence of ingredients able to mitigate skin photodamage. Amino acids and peptides, and A. barbadensis extract were tested for their in vivo efficacy. Nevertheless, all the ingredients were analyzed with in vitro studies as preliminary screening before in vivo, ex vivo and/or clinical studies. In summary, this study provides an overview of the use of active ingredients in commercial aftersun products to understand better the benefits associated with their use in cosmetic formulations and identify opportunities for innovation.

Toxicokinetics of 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS) and its seven metabolites in humans after controlled single dermal exposure to EHS.

The chemical UV filter 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS) is used in various personal-care products. The dermal and oral metabolism of EHS have already been targeted by different studies. However, toxicokinetic data after a single dermal exposure to EHS was missing. In our study, three volunteers were dermally exposed to a commercial EHS-containing sunscreen for 9 h with an application dose of 2 mg sunscreen per cm2 body surface area. The exposure was performed indoors, and sunscreen was applied on about 75% of the total skin area. Complete urine voids were collected over 72 h and eight blood samples were drawn from each subject. Urine samples were analyzed for EHS and seven known metabolites (5OH-EHS, 4OH-EHS, 2OH-EHS, 6OH-EHS, 4oxo-EHS, 5oxo-EHS, and 5cx-EPS) by online-SPE UPLC MS/MS. The peaks of urinary elimination occurred 10-11 h after application. The elimination half-lives (Phase 1) were between 6.6 and 9.7 h. The dominant urinary biomarkers were EHS itself, followed by 5OH-EHS, 5cx-EPS, 5oxo-EHS, and 4OH-EHS. 2OH-EHS, 6OH-EHS, and 4oxo-EHS were detected only in minor amounts. An enhanced analysis of conjugation species revealed marginal amounts of unconjugated metabolites and up to 40% share of sulfate conjugates for 5OH-EHS, 5oxo-EHS, and 5cx-EPS. The results demonstrated a delayed systemic resorption of EHS via the dermal route. Despite an extensive metabolism, the parent compound occurred as main urinary parameter. The delayed dermal resorption as well as the slow elimination of EHS indicate an accumulation up to toxicological relevant doses during daily repeated dermal application to large skin areas.