Suitability of different reconstructed human skin models in the skin and liver Chip2 microphysiological model to investigate the kinetics and first-pass skin metabolism of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene.

The HUMIMIC skin-liver Chip2 microphysiological systems model using the epidermal model, EpiDerm™, was reported previously to mimic application route-dependent metabolism of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene (AHT). Therefore, we evaluated the use of alternative skin models-SkinEthic™, EpiDermFT™ and PhenionFT™-for the same purpose. In static incubations, AHT permeation was similar using SkinEthic™ and EpiDerm™ models. Older Day 21 (D21) SkinEthic™ models with a thicker stratum corneum did not exhibit a greater barrier to AHT (overall permeation was the same in D17 and D21 models). All epidermal models metabolised AHT, with the EpiDerm™ exhibiting higher N-acetylation than SkinEthic™ models. AHT metabolism by D21 SkinEthic™ models was lower than that by D17 SkinEthic™ and EpiDerm™ models, thus a thicker stratum corneum was associated with fewer viable cells and a lower metabolic activity. AHT permeation was much slower using PhenionFT™ compared to epidermal models and better reflected permeation of AHT through native human skin. This model also extensively metabolised AHT to N-acetyl-AHT. After a single topical or systemic application of AHT to Chip2 model with PhenionFT™, medium was analysed for parent and metabolites over 5 days. The first-pass metabolism of AHT was demonstrated, and the introduction of a wash step after 30 min decreased the exposure to AHT and its metabolites by 33% and 40%-43%, respectively. In conclusion, epidermal and FT skin models used in the Chip2 can mimic the first-pass skin metabolism of AHT. This highlights the flexibility of the Chip2 to incorporate different skin models according to the purpose.

Toxic potential assessment of hair dye developer 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine sulfate exposed under ambient UVB radiation.

Synthetic cosmetics, particularly hair dyes, are becoming increasingly popular among people of all ages and genders. 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine sulfate (TAPS) is a key component of oxidative hair dyes and is used as a developer in several hair dyes. TAPS has previously been shown to absorb UVB strongly and degrade in a time-dependent manner, causing phototoxicity in human skin cells. However, the toxic effects of UVB-degraded TAPS are not explored in comparison to parent TAPS. Therefore, this research work aims to assess the toxicity of UVB-degraded TAPS than TAPS on two different test systems, that is, HaCaT (mammalian cell) and Staphylococcus aureus (a bacterial cell). Our result on HaCaT has illustrated that UVB-degraded TAPS is less toxic than parent TAPS. Additionally, UVB-exposed TAPS and parent TAPS were given to S. aureus, and the bacterial growth and their metabolic activity were assessed via CFU and phenotype microarray. The findings demonstrated that parent TAPS reduced bacterial growth via decreased metabolic activity; however, bacteria easily utilized the degraded TAPS. Thus, this study suggests that the products generated after UVB irradiation of TAPS is considered to be safer than their parent TAPS.

Bioinspired peptides designed for hair perming and dyeing with potential for repair.

Cosmetics for perming hair are commonly used but have negative impacts on hair fibers. Repairing damaged hair with conditioners, hair oil, and hair masks can provide relief but cannot prevent injuries. Recent research has shown that proteins and amino acids can remodel hair's disulfide bonds. However, the permeation ability of proteins is limited, and amino acids may disrupt the secondary structure of hair keratins. Our study demonstrates that peptides can be safely, efficiently, and promisingly used for hair perming. A bioinspired peptide, PepACS (PepA-PepC-SPB), was designed through bioinformatics. It can interact with keratin's sulfhydryl group in situ to remodel disulfide bonds without affecting hair fiber's tensile properties. The potential of PepACS to repair cuticle injuries is also observed through scanning electron microscope visualization. Besides, linking PepACS with mCherry enables hair dyeing. This research suggests that biomaterials can be applied in the hair care industry. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: Chemical perming products can have negative impacts on people's health and hair fibers, making it essential to explore alternative methods. Peptides treatment is a promising option, but synthesizing sulfur-rich short peptides for hair perming has not been demonstrated before. In this paper, we utilized bioinformatics to design bio-inspired peptides that can interact with hair keratins and form curled shapes. Our study demonstrates that bioinformatics tools can be utilized to design bioinspired peptides with unique functions. Sulfur-rich short peptides can be heterologously expressed with fusion strategies, and PepACS can securely bind hair fibers through disulfide bonds. Importantly, perming hair with 0.01% PepACS maintains the mechanical properties of hair, and dyeing hair with the fusion protein PepACS_mCh can be facilitated by ethanol. These findings suggest that the strategy of perming and dyeing hair through peptides is non-injurious, and the peptides used for repairing hair damage show tremendous potential.

Investigations on detoxification mechanisms of novel para-phenylenediamine analogues through N-acetyltransferase 1 (NAT-1).

Para-phenylenediamine (PPD) is one of the most used chemicals in oxidative hair dyes. However, its use has been associated with adverse effects on health, including contact dermatitis and other systemic toxicities. Novel PPD derivatives have been proposed as a safer replacement for PPD. This can be achieved if these molecules minimally permeate the skin and/or are easily metabolised by enzymes in the skin (e.g., N-acetyltransferase-1 (NAT-1)) into innocuous compounds before gaining systemic entry. This study investigated the detoxification pathway mediated by NAT-1 enzymes on 6 synthesized PPD analogues (namely, P1-P6) with different chemical properties, to study the role of functional groups on detoxification mechanisms in HaCaT skin cells. These compounds were carefully designed with different chemical properties (whereby the ortho position of PPD was substituted by nucleophile and electrophile groups to promote N-acetylation reactions, metabolism and clearance). Compounds P2-P4 N-acetylated at 54-49 nmol/mg/min, which is 1.6 times higher than N-acetylation of PPD, upregulated NAT-1 activity from 8-7% at 50 µM to 22-11% at 100 µM and showed 4 times higher rate of elimination (k equal to 0.141 ± 0.016-0.124 ± 0.01 h-1) and 3 times faster rate of clearance (0.172 ± 0.007-0.158 ± 0.005 h-1mgprotein-1) than PPD (0.0316 ± 0.0019 h-1, 0.0576 ± 0.003 h-1mg protein-1, respectively). The data suggest that nucleophile substituted compounds detoxify at a faster rate than PPD. Our metabolic and detoxification mechanistic studies revealed significantly higher rates of N-acetylation, NAT-1 activity and higher detoxification of P2-P4 in keratinocytes, suggesting the importance of nucleophilic groups at the ortho position in PPD to reduce toxicity of aniline-based dyes on human skin cells.

Demonstration of the first-pass metabolism in the skin of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, using the Chip2 skin-liver microphysiological model.

We used TissUse's HUMIMIC Chip2 microfluidic model, incorporating reconstructed skin models and liver spheroids, to investigate the impact of consumer-relevant application scenarios on the metabolic fate of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene (AHT). After a single topical or systemic application of AHT to Chip2 models, medium was analysed for parent and metabolites over 5 days. The metabolic profile of a high dose (resulting in a circuit concentration of 100 µM based on 100% bioavailability) of AHT was the same after systemic and topical application to 96-well EpiDerm™ models. Additional experiments indicated that metabolic capacity of EpiDerm™ models were saturated at this dose. At 2.5 µM, concentrations of AHT and several of its metabolites differed between application routes. Topical application resulted in a higher Cmax and a 327% higher area under the curve (AUC) of N-acetyl-AHT, indicating a first-pass effect in the EpiDerm™ models. In accordance with in vivo observations, there was a concomitant decrease in the Cmax and AUC of AHT-O-sulphate after topical, compared with systemic application. A similar alteration in metabolite ratios was observed using a 24-well full-thickness skin model, EpiDermFT™, indicating that a first-pass effect was also possible to detect in a more complex model. In addition, washing the EpiDermFT™ after 30 min, thus reflecting consumer use, decreased the systemic exposure to AHT and its metabolites. In conclusion, the skin-liver Chip2 model can be used to (a) recapitulate the first-pass effect of the skin and alterations in the metabolite profile of AHT observed in vivo and (b) provide consumer-relevant data regarding leave-on/rinse-off products.

Fusion proteins with chromogenic and keratin binding modules.

The present research relates to a fusion protein comprising a chromogenic blue ultramarine protein (UM) bound to a keratin-based peptide (KP). The KP-UM fusion protein explores UM chromogenic nature together with KP affinity towards hair. For the first time a fusion protein with a chromogenic nature is explored as a hair coloring agent. The KP-UM protein colored overbleached hair, being the color dependent on the formulation polarity. The protein was able to bind to the hair cuticle and even to penetrate throughout the hair fibre. Molecular dynamics studies demonstrated that the interaction between the KP-UM protein and the hair was mediated by the KP sequence. All the formulations recovered the mechanical properties of overbleached hair and KP-UM proved to be safe when tested in human keratinocytes. Although based on a chromogenic non-fluorescent protein, the KP-UM protein presented a photoswitch phenomenon, changing from chromogenic to fluorescent depending on the wavelength selected for excitation. KP-UM protein shows the potential to be incorporated in new eco-friendly cosmetic formulations for hair coloration, decreasing the use of traditional dyes and reducing its environmental impact.

Ultrasound-enhanced hair dye application for natural dyeing formulations.

Advances made in recent years have allowed the application of colorants obtained from natural sources into textile dyeing. The use of ultrasound in the dyeing method is reported to increase dye uptake and decrease dyeing times. The aim of this work is to further extend the knowledge of natural hair dyes considering the use of ultrasound in the dyeing method with commercially available herbal dyes and using goat hair as a model for human hair. Optimal ultrasonic parameters were selected by considering the effects of sonication times (5, 10 and 15 min), frequencies (44, 400 and 1000 kHz) and total dyeing times (30, 60 and 120 min) in the morphology of the dyed hair and the colour intensity. Damage to the hair surface was evaluated by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) images, differences in colour of the dyed hair was obtained by ImageJ analysis and quantification of dye uptake was determined by UV-visible spectroscopy. The evidence from this study suggests an increase in goat hair coloration with the use of ultrasonic energy. Optimal dyeing conditions in consideration of colouration efficacy without hair damage were identified as sonication at 400 kHz for 10 min with a total dyeing time of 60 min.

Microbial decolorization and detoxification of emerging environmental pollutant: Cosmetic hair dyes.

Since the usage of hair dyes has increased in recent time, the removal of residual dye from environment is also an emerging issue. Hair dye contains mixture of chemicals including genotoxic chemical, p-phenylenediamine (p-PD or PPD). The present study reports bioremediation of hair dye using bacteria isolated from saloon effluent. Sugarcane bagasse powder (SBP) was used as a source of nutrient and surface for bacterial growth. The 16S rDNA sequencing confirmed the isolate as Enterobacter cloacae which was designated as DDB I. The decolourization of dye was studied using UV-vis spectrophotometer. The detoxification study was conducted on microbes isolated from fresh ponds using well diffusion assay. The 1mg/ml of dye was effectively decolourised within 18h of DDB I treatment in the minimal medium containing 30mg/ml of SBP.

Safety Assessment of Hydroxypropyl Bis(N-Hydroxyethyl-p-Phenylenediamine) HCl as Used in Cosmetics.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (CIR Panel) reviewed the safety of hydroxypropyl bis(N-Hydroxyethyl-p-Phenylenediamine) HCl, which functions as an oxidative hair dye ingredient. The Panel considered relevant animal and human data provided in this safety assessment and concluded that hydroxypropyl bis(N-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine) HCl is safe for use in oxidative hair dye formulations as described in this safety assessment.

A laboratory test based on determination of cytokine profiles: a promising assay to identify exposition to contact allergens and predict the clinical outcome in occupational allergic contact dermatitis.

BACKGROUND: Para-phenylenediamine (PPD) is the main allergen causing adverse reactions to hair dyes and a frequent cause of occupational-related skin sensitization among hairdressers and beauticians. The immunologic mechanism of the disease relies on the production of inflammatory cytokines by allergen-specific T cells, while regulatory T cells are thought to down-modulate the allergic response. This study was aimed at investigating the expression of effector or regulatory cytokines in exposed subjects in order to verify whether different cytokine profiles might predict distinct clinical outcomes. Peripheral blood mononuclear cells (PBMC) from 21 subjects occupationally exposed or not (10) to PPD were kept in short term cultures in the presence of optimized concentrations of NiSO4 × 6H2O or PPD. The production of IFN-γ and IL-10 elicited by antigens were analyzed by the ELISpot assay. RESULTS: The presence of IFN-γ responses toward PPD was significantly correlated with a positive patch test (P = 0.002) and allergic symptoms, while IL10 responses were invariably found in PPD-exposed but clinically asymptomatic subjects with negative patch testing. We found concordance between the different cytokine profiles and patch test results. No false-positive results were found for the different cytokine profiles induced by PPD, resulting in 100% specificity. The sensitivity of the test was 87.5% (95% CI 65.9-100.0) with an overall test accuracy of 93.3%. Although larger prospective-retrospective studies are necessary to validate the predictive potential of the test, the negative and positive predicted values for PPD in this study were NPV = 87.5% and PPV = 100%, respectively. CONCLUSIONS: These data indicate that distinct cytokine profiles are associated with different clinical manifestations. The test, which is based on a simple and rapid profiling of cytokine responses by T lymphocytes against allergens, has proven to be a promising laboratory tool, useful for both the identification of previous contact with allergens and the etiologic diagnosis of contact allergies as well as capable of predicting the clinical outcome (development of an allergic or tolerant response).

Exposure of hairdressers to ortho- and meta-toluidine in hair dyes.

BACKGROUND: Carcinogenic aromatic amines derived from hair dyes have recently received new attention. One of these is ortho (o)-toluidine, which is classified as carcinogenic to humans. OBJECTIVES: To clarify exposure of hairdressers to potentially carcinogenic aromatic amines, including o-toluidine. METHODS: We measured eight potentially carcinogenic aromatic amines in the blood of 295 hairdressers, 32 users of hair dyes and 60 controls. The study was restricted to female non-smokers. Lifestyle data were collected for all participants using self-administered questionnaires. Blood samples were taken for analysis of ortho-, meta (m)- and para (p)-toluidine; 2-, 3- and 4-ethylaniline, 2,3- and 3,4-dimethylaniline as haemoglobin adducts. The samples were analysed with gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry. RESULTS: Generally, adduct concentrations were in the range of 0-200 pg/g haemoglobin. A comparison of the adduct concentrations found in hairdressers, consumers and controls showed no statistically significant differences. However, for hairdressers, o- and m-toluidine concentrations increased significantly with the weekly number of hair waving (p=0.020) and permanent hair dyeing treatments (p=0.026), respectively. o-Toluidine and m-Toluidine concentrations also tended (p=0.076 and 0.080, respectively) to increase with the frequency of light-colour permanent hair dye treatments. CONCLUSIONS: Hairdressers who use light-colour permanent hair dyes, other permanent hair dyes and hair waving treatments seem to be exposed to o- and m-toluidine as indicated by associations with the number of treatments performed. Analyses of hair waving and hair dye products should be performed to identify the possible sources of exposure to o- and m-toluidine.

Structure-based rational design to enhance the solubility and thermostability of a bacterial laccase Lac15.

Bacterial laccases are ideal alternatives of fungal laccases for specific industrial applications due to specific characteristics such as alkalescence dependence and high chloride tolerance. However, some bacterial laccases presented as inclusion bodies when expressing in Escherichia coli and showed thermal instability. In this study, rational design was employed to enhance the solubility and the thermostablity of the bacterial laccase Lac15-His6 based on the crystal structure obtained previously. After deletion of His-tag and residues323-332, the obtained Lac15D was completely expressed in soluble form even at a higher temperature of 28°C, compared to only 50% of Lac15-His6 expressed solubly at 16°C. It showed a two-time higher activity at temperatures lower than 35°C and a half-life increasing from 72 min to 150 min at 45°C. When used in chromogenic reactions, Lac15D showed constant activity toward dye precursors and their combinations under alkaline conditions, demonstrating its application potential in hair coloring biotechnology.

N-acetylation of three aromatic amine hair dye precursor molecules eliminates their genotoxic potential.

N-acetylation has been described as a detoxification reaction for aromatic amines; however, there is only limited data available showing that this metabolic conversion step changes their genotoxicity potential. To extend this database, three aromatic amines, all widely used as precursors in oxidative hair dye formulations, were chosen for this study: p-phenylenediamine (PPD), 2,5-diaminotoluene (DAT) and 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene (AHT). Aiming at a deeper mechanistic understanding of the interplay between activation and detoxification for this chemical class, we compared the genotoxicity profiles of the parent compounds with those of their N-acetylated metabolites. While PPD, DAT and AHT all show genotoxic potential in vitro, their N-acetylated metabolites completely lack genotoxic potential as shown in the Salmonella typhimurium reversion assay, micronucleus test with cultured human lymphocytes (AHT), chromosome aberration assay with V79 cells (DAT) and Comet assay performed with V79 cells. For the bifunctional aromatic amines studied (PPD and DAT), monoacetylation was sufficient to completely abolish their genotoxic potential. Detoxification through N-acetylation was further confirmed by comparing PPD, DAT and AHT in the Comet assay using standard V79 cells (N-acetyltransferase (NAT) deficient) and two NAT-proficient cell lines,V79NAT1*4 and HaCaT (human keratinocytes). Here we observed a clear shift of dose-response curves towards decreased genotoxicity of the parent aromatic amines in the NAT-proficient cells. These findings suggest that genotoxic effects will only be found at concentrations where the N-acetylation (detoxifying) capacity of the cells is overwhelmed, indicating that a 'first-pass' effect in skin could be taken into account for risk assessment of these topically applied aromatic amines. The findings also indicate that the use of liver S-9 preparations, which generally underestimate Phase II reactions, contributes to the generation of irrelevant positive results in standard genotoxicity tests for this chemical class.

Novel degradation pathway of 4-chloro-2-aminophenol via 4-chlorocatechol in Burkholderia sp. RKJ 800.

Burkholderia sp. RKJ 800 utilized 4-chloro-2-aminophenol (4C2AP) as the sole carbon and energy source and degraded it with release of chloride and ammonium ions. The metabolic pathway of degradation of 4C2AP was studied and a novel intermediate, 4-chlorocatechol was identified as a major degradation product of 4C2AP using high-performance liquid chromatography and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Enzyme activities for 4C2AP-deaminase and 4-chlorocatechol-1,2-dioxygenase were detected in the crude extracts of the 4C2AP-induced cells of strain RKJ 800. The activity of the 4C2AP-deaminase confirmed the formation of 4-chlorocatechol from 4C2AP and the 4-chlorocatechol-1,2-dioxygenase activity suggested the cleavage of 4-chlorocatechol into 3-chloro-cis,cis-muconate. On the basis of the identified metabolites, we have proposed a novel degradation pathway of 4C2AP for Burkholderia sp. RKJ 800. Furthermore, the potential of Burkholderia sp. RKJ 800 to degrade 4C2AP in soil was also investigated using microcosm studies under laboratory conditions. The results of microcosm studies conclude that Burkholderia sp. RKJ 800 was able to degrade 4C2AP in soil and may be used to remediate 4C2AP-contaminated site. This is the first report of (1) the formation of 4-chlorocatechol and 3-chloro-cis,cis-muconate in the degradation pathway of 4C2AP and (2) bioremediation of 4C2AP by any bacterium.

Penetration and haptenation of p-phenylenediamine.

Although p-phenylenediamine (PPD) has been recognized as an extreme sensitizer for many years, the exact mechanism of sensitization has not been elucidated yet. Penetration and the ability to bind to proteins are the first two hurdles that an allergen has to overcome to be able to sensitize. This review is an overview of studies regarding PPD penetration through skin (analogues) and studies on the amino acids that are targeted by PPD. To complete this review, the auto-oxidation and N-acetylation steps involved in PPD metabolism are described. In summary, under normal hair dyeing exposure conditions, <1% of the applied PPD dose penetrates the skin. The majority (>80%) of PPD that penetrates will be converted into the detoxification products monoacetyl-PPD and diacetyl-PPD by the N-acetyltransferase enzymes. The small amount of PPD that does not become N-acetylated is susceptible to auto-oxidation reactions, yielding protein-reactive PPD derivatives. These derivatives may bind to specific amino acids, and some of the formed adducts might be the complexes responsible for sensitization. However, true in vivo evidence is lacking, and further research to unravel the definite mechanism of sensitization is needed.

[Development and validation of an assay method of the paraphenylene diamine by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry]. / Développement et validation d'une méthode de dosage de la paraphénylène diamine par chromatographie gazeuse couplée à la spectrométrie de masse.

Paraphenylenediamine is an aromatic amine used as a hair dye; it is responsible for poisoning characterized by respiratory distress involving life-threatening. The objective of this work is the development and validation of an assay of para-phenylenediamine in the whole blood. The method is based on the determination of paraphenylene diamine in whole blood by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry after liquid-liquid extraction and derivatization. The validation protocol has included the study of the recovery factor of extraction, the measurement range, accurency, repetability and intermediate precision. The calibration curve was linear between 98 and 1350 µg/L (r = 0.999), the limit of detection and quantification were 37 µg/L and 63 µg/L respectively. The accuracy were 94.7%. Coefficients of variation were (2.3/6.8/9.7%) for repeatability and (4.4/8.7/9.8%) for intermediate precision. The method is suitable for quantification of PPD in acute poisoning situations. A method for the determination of the paraphenylene diamine in the whole blood by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry was developed. The validation of the method showed good linearity, good accuracy and low limit of quantification.

Hematopathology in Sprague-Dawley rats following sub-chronic topical application of para-phenylenediamine.

The aim of the present study was to analyze the hematological profile of male SD rats treated topically with aqueous solution of para-phenylenediamine (PPD), a component of almost all hair dye formulations. The rats were painted with different concentration of PPD (0, 1, 2 and 3 mg Kg(-1) Day(-1)) for 90 days and then sacrificed. The hematological profile indicated severe anemia characterized by significant (p < 0.05, 0.001) reduction of total RBC count (59%), packed cell volume (PCV, 50%) and haemoglobin level (70%) in the peripheral blood of PPD treated animals when compared to control group. The leucocytes profile exhibited an overall elevation of around twofold as compared to the control group with significant lymphocytosis (44.4%) and a higher percentage of blast cells (8.5%) as well as smudge (10.3%) and hairy cells (6.2%) in the peripheral blood of treated animals. Histopathological examination of spleen from treated rat's exhibit red pulp congestion, expansion of the germinal centre, hyperplasia of the membrane capsule and extensive accumulation of hemosidderin pigments in the red pulp of the spleen. Overall this study indicated an abnormal pathophysiological condition indicating adverse effect of PPD in the treated animal groups. The risk assessment of hair dye formulation needs to be reviewed in view of widespread usage of paraphenylenediamine in almost all hair dye formulation.