Prediction of indoor climbing performance in women rock climbers.
J Strength Cond Res
; 18(1): 77-83, 2004 Feb.
Article
em En
| MEDLINE
| ID: mdl-14971979
ABSTRACT
In an attempt to more clearly understand the strength characteristics of female rock climbers and whether those variables affect and predict climbing performance, 2 indoor climbing performance tests (route and bouldering) were compared to a series of muscular strength tests performed by moderate (n = 6), intermediate (n = 6), and expert (n = 6) female rock climbers. Significant differences (p < 0.05) were found between the expert group and the moderate and intermediate groups for climbing specific hand strength, as well as 1-arm lock-off strength when expressed as a strength-to-weight ratio. Multiple correlations showed that these variables (r > 0.426) as well as a questionnaire of past climbing performance (r > 0.86) significantly correlated to the tests of indoor climbing performance. In conclusion, climbing-specific tests of hand strength and of one arm lock-off strength reliably and sensitively measured 2 significant variables in the performance of indoor rock climbing, and a questionnaire of past best performance may be an accurate tool for the prediction of indoor climbing performance.
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Base de dados:
MEDLINE
Assunto principal:
Resistência Física
/
Braço
/
Esportes
/
Músculo Esquelético
Idioma:
En
Ano de publicação:
2004
Tipo de documento:
Article