Liquid crystal colloidal structures for increased silicone deposition efficiency on colour-treated hair.

An approach is described to increase the deposition efficiency of silicone conditioning actives from a shampoo on colour-treated hair via liquid crystal (LC) colloidal structures, created with a high charge density cationic polymer, poly(diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride) and negatively charged surfactants. LCs are materials existing structurally between the solid crystalline and liquid phases, and several techniques, including polarized light microscopy, small angle X-Ray analysis, and differential scanning calorimetry, were used to confirm the presence of the LC structures in the shampoo formula. Silicone deposition from the LC-containing shampoo and a control shampoo was measured on a range of hair substrates, and data from inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectroscopy analysis and ToF-SIMS imaging illustrate the enhancement in silicone deposition for the LC shampoo on all hair types tested, with the most pronounced enhancement occurring on hair that had undergone oxidative treatments, such as colouring. A model is proposed in which the LC structure deposits from the shampoo onto the hair to: (i) provide 'slip planes' along the hair surface for wet conditioning purposes and (ii) form a hydrophobic layer which changes the surface energy of the fibres. This increase in hydrophobicity of the hair surface thereby increases the deposition efficiency of silicone conditioning ingredients. Zeta potential measurements, dynamic absorbency testing analysis and ToF-SIMS imaging were used to better understand the mechanisms of action. This approach to increasing silicone deposition is an improvement relative to conventional conditioning shampoos, especially for colour-treated hair.

Use of quaternized cassia galactomannan for hair conditioning.

There is a continuing need for hair care formulas to deliver superior conditioning benefits with highly efficient deposition of hair-enhancing components. In this paper, we describe high-charge-density (3.0 mEq/g) cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (cassia HPTC), a quaternized galactomannan from the endosperm of Cassia tora and Cassia obtusifolia. Cassia HPTC is shown to participate in the coacervate phase of conditioning shampoos, from which it is deposited onto hair to provide conditioning benefits. Cryo-scanning electron microscopy and time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry were used to observe and characterize the cassia HPTC deposits left on hair. The high-charge-density cassia HPTC resulted in improved deposition efficiency compared with a quaternized guar-containing formula. Cassia HPTC offers benefits as an alternative to traditional cationic polymers as conditioning agents or as an adjunct conditioner to decrease the amount of cationic polymer needed to achieve the desired conditioning performance.