Rubber-glass nanocomposites fabricated using mixed emulsions.

Many composites consist of matrices of elastomers and nanoparticles of stiff materials. Such composites often have superior properties and are widely used. Embedding elastomers with nanoparticles commonly necessitates intense shear, using machines like extruders and roll millers, which cut polymer chains and degrade properties. Here, we prepare a rubber-glass nanocomposite by using two aqueous emulsions. Each emulsion is separately prepared with a single species of polymer chains. Each polymer chain is copolymerized with a small amount of silane coupling agent. Upon mixing the two emulsions, as water evaporates, the glassy particles retain the shape, and the rubbery particles change shape to form a continuous matrix. Subsequently, the silane coupling agent condensates, which cross-links the rubbery chains and interlinks the rubbery chains to the glassy particles. The cross-links and interlinks stabilize the nanostructure and lead to superior properties. The nanocomposite simultaneously achieves high modulus (~30 MPa), high toughness (~100 kJ m-2), and high fatigue threshold (~1,000 J m-2). The method of mixed emulsion is environmentally friendly and compatible with various open-air manufacturing processes, such as coat, cast, spray, print, and brush. Additionally, the silane coupling agent can interlink the nanocomposite to other materials. The method of mixed emulsion can be used to fabricate objects of complex shapes, fine features, and prescribed spatial variations of compositions.

Impact of Intravenous Fat Emulsion Choice on Candida Biofilm, Hyphal Growth, and Catheter-Related Bloodstream Infections in Pediatric Patients.

BACKGROUND: Use of mixed-oil (MO) intravenous fat emulsion (IFE) was shown to inhibit Candida albicans biofilm formation and overall rate of catheter-related bloodstream infections (CR-BSIs) compared with soybean-oil (SO) IFE). We aimed to delineate this inhibitory mechanism and impact of IFE choice on distribution of fungal CR-BSIs. METHODS: Transcriptional profiling was conducted on C. albicans grown in SO-IFE, MO-IFE, or SO-IFE with capric acid. Overexpression strains of shared down-regulated genes were constructed using a tetracycline-off system to assess hypha and biofilm formation in IFEs. A 5-year retrospective multicenter cohort study was performed to assess differences in CR-BSIs caused by Candida species based on the IFE formulation received in pediatric patients. RESULTS: Genes significantly down-regulated in MO-IFE and SO-IFE with capric acid included CDC11, HGC1, and UME6. Overexpression of HGC1 or UME6 enabled filamentation in capric acid and MO-IFE. Interestingly, only overexpression of UME6 was sufficient to rescue biofilm growth in MO-IFE. MO-IFE administration was associated with a higher proportion of non-albicans Candida versus C. albicans CR-BSIs (42% vs 33%; odds ratio, 1.22 [95% confidence interval, .46-3.26]). CONCLUSIONS: MO-IFE affects C. albicans biofilm formation and hyphal growth via a UME6-dependent mechanism. A numerical but not statistically significant difference in distribution of Candida spp. among CR-BSIs was observed.

Delivery of carbohydrates, amino acids, and lipids via intravenous catheters is necessary for some patients to supply daily caloric needs. These nutrient-dense parenteral solutions can promote microbial biofilm growth on the catheter surface, which may seed subsequent catheter-related bloodstream infection (CR-BSI). In fact, receipt of parenteral nutrition is an established risk factor for CR-BSI caused by the polymorphic fungal pathogen Candida albicans. New intravenous fat emulsions (IFEs) have gained market share and IFEs containing capric acid (mixed-oil [MO] IFE) compared with those without (soybean-oil [SO] IFE) impair the C. albicans yeast-to-hypha switch­a trait strongly associated with pathogenicity and biofilm formation. In this study, we found that MO-IFE and capric acid reduced expression of a transcriptional regulator involved in hyphal extension (UME6) and down-regulated genes involved in cell partitioning (HGC1). Overexpression of these genes enabled hyphal growth in MO-IFE. Secondly, we sought to determine whether the type of IFE administered was associated with the clinical incidence of CR-BSIs caused by C. albicans or other common non-albicans Candida species. There was a nonsignificant numerical reduction in C. albicans infections in patients administered MO-IFE compared with SO-IFE. Collectively, this work shows that IFEs differentially affect Candida biology with potential infectious consequences for the patient.

Nanoparticle Surfactants at Complex Emulsion Interfaces.

Using nanoparticle surfactants to stabilize the liquid-liquid interface has attracted significant attention for developing all-liquid constructs including emulsions and liquid devices. Here, an efficient strategy is demonstrated to stabilize complex emulsions that consist of multiphase droplets by using the co-assembly between the cellulose nanocrystal and amine-functionalized polystyrene. Cellulose nanocrystal surfactants (CNCSs) form and assembly in situ at the specified area of emulsion interface, showing a unique pH responsiveness due to their dynamic nature and allowing the reconfiguration of complex emulsion from encapsulated to Janus structures. Such complex emulsions can be further used as the templates to fabricate polymeric particles with hollow, semi-spherical, and spherical shapes on large scale. These findings establish a promising platform for designing intelligent soft matter that can be used in microreactors, sensors, and anisotropic materials.

pH-Controllable Redox Responsive Amphiphilic Viologens for Switchable Emulsions.

A pH and redox dual responsive amphiphilic viologen is synthesized, which can be reversibly transformed among the zwitterionic (SVa), monovalent anionic (SV+), and divalent anionic (SVH2+) forms upon pH variation, exhibiting pH-controllable redox responsive properties. Switchable Pickering emulsions with different droplet size and viscosity are prepared by the mixture of hydrophilic silica nanoparticles and the viologens (SV+ or SVH2+) at acidic conditions, while such combination yielded an oil-in-dispersion emulsion at neutral pH value. Not only can rapid reversible demulsification/stabilization of the Pickering emulsions be achieved by redox reactions, but the rate of redox-demulsification can also be controlled by pH trigger. The dual-responsive amphiphilic viologens have potential applications in developing intelligent colloid materials and molecular logic systems.

Drop-by-Drop Addition of Reagents to a Double Emulsion.

Developments in droplet microfluidics have facilitated an era of high-throughput, sensitive single-cell, or single-molecule measurements capable of tackling the heterogeneity present in biological systems. Relying on single emulsion (SE) compartments, droplet assays achieve absolute quantification of nucleic acids, massively parallel single-cell profiling, and more. Double emulsions (DEs) have seen recent interest for their potential to build upon SE techniques. DEs are compatible with flow cytometry enabling high-throughput multi-parameter drop screening and eliminate content mixing due to coalescence during lengthy workflows. Despite these strengths, DEs lack important technical functions that exist in SEs such as methods for adding reagents to droplets on demand. Consequently, DEs cannot be used for multistep workflows which has limited their adoption in assay development. Here, strategies to enable reagent addition and other active manipulations on DEs are reported by converting DE inputs to SEs on chip. After conversion, drops are manipulated using existing SE techniques, including reagent addition, before reforming a DE at the outlet. Device designs and operation conditions achieving drop-by-drop reagent addition to DEs are identified and used as part of a multi-step aptamer screening assay performed entirely in DE drops. This work enables the further development of multistep DE droplet assays.

Pickering Emulsions Biocatalysis: Recent Developments and Emerging Trends.

Biocatalysis within biphasic systems is gaining significant attention in the field of synthetic chemistry, primarily for its ability to solve the problem of incompatible solubilities between biocatalysts and organic compounds. By forming an emulsion from these two-phase systems, a larger surface area is created, which greatly improves the mass transfer of substrates to the biocatalysts. Among the various types of emulsions, Pickering emulsions stand out due to their excellent stability, compatibility with biological substances, and the ease with which they can be formed and separated. This makes them ideal for reusing both the emulsifiers and the biocatalysts. This review explores the latest developments in biocatalysis using Pickering emulsions. It covers the structural features, methods of creation, innovations in flow biocatalysis, and the role of interfaces in these processes. Additionally, the challenges and future directions are discussed in combining chemical and biological catalysts within Pickering emulsion frameworks to advance synthetic methodologies.

High-precision screening and sorting of double emulsion droplets.

Mounting evidence suggests that cell populations are extremely heterogeneous, with individual cells fulfilling different roles within the population. Flow cytometry (FC) is a high-throughput tool for single-cell analysis that works at high optical resolution. Sub-populations with unique properties can be screened, isolated and sorted through fluorescence-activated cell sorting (FACS), using intracellular fluorescent products or surface-tagged fluorescent products of interest. However, traditional FC and FACS methods cannot identify or isolate cells that secrete extracellular products of interest. Double emulsion (DE) droplets are an innovative approach to retaining these extracellular products so cells producing them can be identified and isolated with FC and FACS. The water-in-oil-in-water structure makes DE droplets compatible with the sheath flow of flow cytometry. Single cells can be encapsulated with other reagents into DEs, which act as pico-reactors. These droplets allow biological activities to take place while allowing for cell cultivation monitoring, rare mutant identification, and cellular events characterization. However, using DEs in FACS presents technical challenges, including rupture of DEs, poor accuracy and low sorting efficiency. This study presents high-performance sorting using fluorescent beads (as simulants for cells). This study aims to guide researchers in the use of DE-based flow cytometry, offering insights into how to resolve the technical difficulties associated with DE-based screening and sorting using FC.

Coarsening of Quasi Two-Dimensional Emulsions Formed by Islands in Free-Standing Smectic Films.

We study the coarsening behavior of assemblies of islands on smectic A freely suspended films in ISS microgravity experiments. The islands can be regarded as liquid inclusions in a two-dimensional fluid in analogy to liquid droplets of the discontinuous phase of an emulsion. The coarsening is effectuated by two processes, predominantly by island coalescence, but to some extend also by Ostwald ripening, whereby large islands grow at the expense of surrounding smaller ones. A peculiarity of this system is that the continuous and the discontinuous phases consist of the same material. We determine the dynamics, analyze the self-similar aging of the island size distribution and discuss characteristic exponents of the mean island growth.

Recent developments in the fabrication of food microparticles and nanoparticles using microfluidic systems.

Microfluidics is revolutionizing the production of microparticles and nanoparticles, offering precise control over dimensions and internal structure. This technology facilitates the creation of colloidal delivery systems capable of encapsulating and releasing nutraceuticals. Nutraceuticals, often derived from food-grade ingredients, can be used for developing functional foods. This review focuses on the principles and applications of microfluidic systems in crafting colloidal delivery systems for nutraceuticals. It explores the foundational principles behind the development of microfluidic devices for nutraceutical encapsulation and delivery. Additionally, it examines the prospects and challenges with using microfluidics for functional food development. Microfluidic systems can be employed to form emulsions, liposomes, microgels and microspheres, by manipulating minute volumes of fluids flowing within microchannels. This versatility can enhance the dispersibility, stability, and bioavailability of nutraceuticals. However, challenges as scaling up production, fabrication complexity, and microchannel clogging hinder the widespread application of microfluidic technologies. In conclusion, this review highlights the potential role of microfluidics in design and fabrication of nutraceutical delivery systems. At present, this technology is most suitable for exploring the role of specific delivery system features (such as particle size, composition and morphology) on the stability and bioavailability of nutraceuticals, rather than for large-scale production of nutraceutical delivery systems.

Starch-based particles as stabilizers for Pickering emulsions: modification, characteristics, stabilization, and applications.

The potential utilization of starch as a particle-based emulsifier in the preparation of Pickering emulsions is gaining interest within the food industry. Starch is an affordable and abundant functional ingredient, which makes it an excellent candidate for the stabilization of Pickering emulsions. This review article focuses on the formation, stabilization, and properties of Pickering emulsions formulated using starch-based particles and their derivatives. First, methods of isolating and modifying starch-based particles are highlighted. The key parameters governing the properties of starch-stabilized Pickering emulsions are then discussed, including the concentration, size, morphology, charge, and wettability of the starch-based particles, as well as the type and size of the oil droplets. The physicochemical mechanisms underlying the ability of starch-based particles to form and stabilize Pickering emulsions are also discussed. Starch-based Pickering emulsions tend to be more resistant to coalescence than conventional emulsions, which is useful for some food applications. Potential applications of starch-stabilized Pickering emulsions are reviewed, as well as recent studies on their gastrointestinal fate. The information provided may stimulate the utilization of starch-based Pickering emulsions in food and other industries.

The urolithin B nanomicellar delivery system as an efficient selective anticancer compound.

BACKGROUND: Urolithin B (UB), the antioxidant polyphenol has a protective impact on several organs against oxidative stress. However, its bioactivity is limited by its hydrophobic structure. In the current study, UB was encapsulated into a liposomal structure to improve its bioactivities anticancer, and antimicrobial potential. METHOD: The UB nano-emulsions (UB-NE) were synthesized and characterized utilizing FESEM, DLS, FTIR, and Zeta-potential analysis. The UB-NMs' selective toxicity was studied by conducting an MTT assay on MCF-7, PANC, AGS, and ASPC1 cells. The AO/PI analysis verified the UB-NMs' cytotoxicity on ASPC1 cell lines and approved the MTT results. Finally, the antibacterial activity of the UB-NMs was studied on both gram-positive (B. subtilis, S. aureus) and gram-negative (E. Coli, P. aeruginosa) bacteria by conducting MIC and MBC analysis. RESULT: The 68.15 nm UB-NMs did not reduce the normal HDF cells' survival. However, they reduced the cancer cells' (PANC and AGS cell lines) survival at high treatment concentrations (> 250 µg/mL) compared with normal HDF and cancer MCF-7 cells. Moreover, the IC50 doses of UB-NMs for the ASPC1 and PANC cancer cells were measured at 44.87, and 221.02 µg/mL, respectively. The UB-NMs selectively exhibited apoptotic-mediated cytotoxicity on the human pancreatic tumor cell line (ASPC1) by down-regulating BCL2 and NFKB gene expression. Also, the BAX gene expression was up-regulated in the ASPC1-treated cells. Moreover, they exhibited significant anti-bactericidal activity against the E. coli (MIC = 50 µg/mL, MBC = 150 µg/mL), P. aeruginosa (MIC = 75 µg/mL, MBC = 275 µg/mL), B. subtilis (MIC = 125 µg/mL, MBC = 450 µg/mL), and S. aureus (MIC = 50 µg/mL, MBC = 200 µg/mL) strains. CONCLUSION: The significant selective cytotoxic impact of the UB-NMs on the human pancreatic tumor cell line makes it an applicable anti-pancreatic cancer compound. Moreover, the antibacterial activity of UB-NMs has the potential to decrease bacterial-mediated pancreatic cancer. However, several bacterial strains and further cancer cell lines are required to verify the UB-NMs' anticancer potential.

The continued advance of vaccine adjuvants - 'we can work it out'.

In the last decade there have been some significant advances in vaccine adjuvants, particularly in relation to their inclusion in licensed products. This was proceeded by several decades in which such advances were very scarce, or entirely absent, but several novel adjuvants have now been included in licensed products, including in the US. These advances have relied upon several key technological insights that have emerged in this time period, which have finally allowed an in depth understanding of how adjuvants work. These advances include developments in systems biology approaches which allow the hypotheses first advanced in pre-clinical studies to be critically evaluated in human studies. This review highlights these recent advances, both in relation to the adjuvants themselves, but also the technologies that have enabled their successes. Moreover, we critically appraise what will come next, both in terms of new adjuvant molecules, and the technologies needed to allow them to succeed. We confidently predict that additional adjuvants will emerge in the coming years that will reach approval in licensed products, but that the components might differ significantly from those which are currently used. Gradually, the natural products that were originally used to build adjuvants, since they were readily available at the time of initial development, will come to be replaced by synthetic or biosynthetic materials, with more appealing attributes, including more reliable and robust supply, along with reduced heterogeneity. The recent advance in vaccine adjuvants is timely, given the need to create novel vaccines to deal with the COVID-19 pandemic. Although, we must ensure that the rigorous safety evaluations that allowed the current adjuvants to advance are not 'short-changed' in the push for new vaccines to meet the global challenge as quickly as possible, we must not jeopardize what we have achieved, by pushing less established technologies too quickly, if the data does not fully support it.

Foam film stratification studies probe intermicellar interactions.

Ultrathin foam films containing supramolecular structures like micelles in bulk and adsorbed surfactant at the liquid-air interface undergo drainage via stratification. At a fixed surfactant concentration, the stepwise decrease in the average film thickness of a stratifying micellar film yields a characteristic step size that also describes the quantized thickness difference between coexisting thick-thin flat regions. Even though many published studies claim that step size equals intermicellar distance obtained using scattering from bulk solutions, we found no reports of a direct comparison between the two length scales. It is well established that step size is inversely proportional to the cubic root of surfactant concentration but cannot be estimated by adding micelle size to Debye length, as the latter is inversely proportional to the square root of surfactant concentration. In this contribution, we contrast the step size obtained from analysis of nanoscopic thickness variations and transitions in stratifying foam films using Interferometry Digital Imaging Optical Microscopy (IDIOM) protocols, that we developed, with the intermicellar distance obtained using small-angle X-ray scattering. We find that stratification driven by the confinement-induced layering of micelles within the liquid-air interfaces of a foam film provides a sensitive probe of non-DLVO (Derjaguin-Landau-Verwey-Overbeek) supramolecular oscillatory structural forces and micellar interactions.

Lactiplantibacillus plantarum OL5 biosurfactants as alternative to chemical surfactants for application in eco-friendly cosmetics and skincare products.

Cosmetics have been extremely popular throughout history and continue to be so today. Cosmetic and personal care products, including toothpaste, shampoo, lotions, and makeup, are typically made with petroleum-based surfactants. Currently, there is an increasing demand to enhance the sustainability of surface-active compounds in dermal formulations. Biosurfactants, derived from living cells, are considered more environmentally friendly than synthetic surfactants. Thus, the use of biosurfactants is a promising strategy for formulating more environmentally friendly and sustainable dermal products. Biosurfactants have the potential to replace chemical surface-active agents in the cosmetic sector due to their multifunctional qualities, such as foaming, emulsifying, and skin-moisturizing activities.In this study, two glycolipopeptide biosurfactants derived from Lactiplantibacillus plantarum OL5 were used as stabilizing factors in oil-in-water emulsions in the presence of coconut oils. Both biosurfactants increased emulsion stability, particularly in the 1:3 ratio, dispersion, and droplet size. Moreover, the cytotoxicity of the two Lactiplantibacillus plantarum biosurfactants was assessed on B lymphocytes and MCF-7 cells. Overall, the results gathered herein are very promising for the development of new green cosmetic formulations.

Tunable Structural Coloration in Eccentric Water-in-Oil-in-Water Droplets.

Structural colors show diverse advantages such as fade resistance, eco-friendliness, iridescence, and high saturation in comparison with chemical pigments. In this paper, we show tunable structural coloration in colorless water-in-oil-in-water double emulsion droplets via total internal reflection and interference at the microscale concave interfaces. Through experimental work and simulations, we demonstrate that the shell thickness and the eccentricity of the core-shell structures are key to the successful formation of iridescent structural colors. Only eccentric thin-shell water-in-oil-in-water droplets show structural colors. Importantly, structural colors based on water-oil interfaces are readily responsive to a variety of environmental stimuli, such as osmotic pressure, temperature, magnetic fields, and light composition. This work highlights an alternative structural coloration that expands the applications of droplet-based structural colors to aqueous systems.

Contribution of cosmetic ingredients and skin care textures to emotions.

OBJECTIVE: Emotions play an important role in consumers' perception of a sensory experience. The objective of this work was to investigate the ability of basic skin care formulas (i.e. without interference of odour, colour and packaging) and pillar ingredients (i.e. emollients and rheology modifiers) to elicit emotions. Another objective was to track, as claimed by neurocosmetics, the possible effect of formulas to trigger emotions from their direct biochemical effects on the skin. METHODS: Standard methodologies were mobilized, combining subjective and behavioural parameters (i.e. verbatim, prosody and gesture). Sense and Story methodology based on a collection of metaphoric verbatim was conducted after an induction phase. In addition, an experimental electrophysiological real-time visualization method was tried as a first experience in cosmetics. Finally, the ability of formulations with emotional benefits to modulate the release of neuropeptides by sensory neurons was evaluated on a 3D human model (epidermis co-cultured with sensory neurons). RESULTS: Skin care formulas were shown to play a role in emotional potential and the types of emotion generated, while changing one ingredient mostly acted on the intensity of the emotions. Verbatim provided contrasted answers depending on the protocol, highlighting the interest of non-verbal approaches to detect subtle effects. The in vitro model substantiated physiological effects of skin care formulas with emotional potential on human skin sensory neuron activity. CONCLUSION: Emotions were impacted by the change in ingredients and were better captured through non-verbal methods.

OBJECTIF: Les émotions jouent un rôle important dans la perception qu'ont les consommateurs d'une expérience sensorielle. L'objectif de ce travail était d'étudier la capacité de formules de soins pour la peau de base (c'est­à­dire sans interférence d'odeur, de couleur, d'emballage) et d' ingrédients essentiels (c'est­à­dire les émollients et les modificateurs de rhéologie) à susciter des émotions. Un autre objectif était de suivre, comme le prétendent les neurocosmétiques, l'effet possible des formules à déclencher des émotions à partir de leurs effets biochimiques directs sur la peau. MÉTHODES: Des méthodologies standards ont été mises en œuvre, combinant des paramètres subjectifs et comportementaux (c'est­à­dire verbatim, prosodie et gestuelle). La méthodologie Sense & Story basée sur un ensemble de verbatim métaphoriques a été mise en œuvre après une phase d'induction. En outre, une méthode expérimentale de visualisation électrophysiologique en temps réel a été testée comme première expérience dans le domaine des cosmétiques. Enfin, la capacité des formulations présentant des bénéfices émotionnels à moduler la libération de neuropeptides par les neurones sensoriels a été évaluée sur un modèle humain 3D (épiderme co­cultivé avec des neurones sensoriels). RÉSULTATS: Il a été démontré que les formules de soins pour la peau jouent un rôle dans le potentiel émotionnel et les types d'émotions générées, tandis que le changement d'un ingrédient agit principalement sur l'intensité des émotions. Le verbatim a fourni des réponses contrastées selon le protocole, soulignant l'intérêt des approches non verbales pour détecter les effets subtils. Le modèle in vitro a confirmé les effets physiologiques des formules de soins pour la peau ayant un potentiel émotionnel sur l'activité des neurones sensoriels de la peau humaine. CONCLUSION: Les émotions ont été affectées par le changement d'ingrédients et ont été mieux saisies par des méthodes non verbales.

Evaluation of the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of Prosopis juliflora fruit extract as a novel multifunctional bioactive ingredient and its potential applicability in pro-ageing and skin colour harmonization cosmetic products.

OBJECTIVE: Prosopis juliflora, commonly known as algaroba or mesquite, was introduced and has since proliferated throughout the semi-arid region of the Caatinga biome. Various studies have documented its properties, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antitumor activities, attributed to the presence of diverse secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, terpenoids, tannins, and flavonoids. The objective of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of P. juliflora fruit extract as a multifunctional active ingredient, and to develop cosmetic formulations containing this vegetal extract for potential applications in skincare products targeting pro-ageing and skin colour homogenization properties. METHODS: The extraction process followed established protocols. Chemical characterization of the extract involved quantification of total flavonoids and phenolic compounds, along with Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis. In vitro antioxidant activity was assessed using different methods. Antityrosinase activity was determined by employing enzymatic assays. Cosmetic formulations containing Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyl Glycerin, Distilled Water, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer Lecithin, Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7, and 3.0% of the investigated plant extract were subjected to preliminary and accelerated stability tests. RESULTS: The extract demonstrated a concentration of total flavonoids (1.71 ± 0.26 µg EQ/mg) and exhibited concentrations of phenolic compounds at 0.21 ± 0.01 mg EAG/g. Metabolites such as flavonoids and saponins were annotated, as well as some of their respective glycosidic derivatives. The extract showed antioxidant potential and the ability to inhibit the oxidation cascade in both the initiation and propagation phases. Moreover, the extract exhibited noteworthy inhibition of antityrosinase activity, presenting 62.48 ± 2.09 at a concentration of 30.00 mg/mL. The formulations were stable in accelerated stability tests over a 60-day period. CONCLUSION: This research not only demonstrates scientifically by demonstrating the potential of a plant from the Caatinga biome with antioxidant and antityrosinase properties in the development of cosmetic products aimed at pro-ageing effects and skin colour harmonization, but also adds value to the P. juliflora production chain. This valorization encompasses various aspects which include environmental, social, and biodiversity responsibilities.

OBJECTIF: Prosopis juliflora, communément appelée algaroba ou mesquite, a été introduite et s'est depuis proliférée dans la région semi­aride du biome de la Caatinga. Diverses études ont documenté ses propriétés, y compris des activités antimicrobiennes, antioxydantes et antitumorales, attribuées à la présence de divers métabolites secondaires tels que les alcaloïdes, les terpénoïdes, les tanins et les flavonoïdes. L'objectif de cette étude était d'évaluer les activités antioxydantes et antityrosinases de l'extrait de fruit de P. juliflora en tant qu'ingrédient actif multifonctionnel, et de développer des formulations cosmétiques contenant cet extrait végétal pour des applications potentielles dans des produits de soins de la peau ciblant les propriétés anti­âge et d'homogénéisation de la couleur de la peau. MÉTHODES: Le processus d'extraction a suivi des protocoles établis. La caractérisation chimique de l'extrait a impliqué la quantification des flavonoïdes totaux et des composés phénoliques, ainsi qu'une analyse par chromatographie liquide­spectrométrie de masse. L'activité antioxydante in vitro a été évaluée en utilisant différentes méthodes. L'activité antityrosinase a été déterminée en utilisant des essais enzymatiques. Les formulations cosmétiques contenant du Disodium EDTA, du Phenoxyethanol (et) Ethylhexyl Glycerin, de l'Eau Distillée, du Copolymère de Sodium Acrylates Lecithin, du Polyacrylamide (et) C13­14 Isoparaffin (et) Laureth­7, et 3.0 % de l'extrait végétal investigué ont été soumises à des tests de stabilité préliminaires et accélérés. RÉSULTATS: L'extrait a montré une concentration totale de flavonoïdes (1.71 ± 0.26 µg EQ/mg) et des concentrations de composés phénoliques à 0.21 ± 0.01 mg EAG/g. Des métabolites tels que les flavonoïdes et les saponines ont été annotés, ainsi que certains de leurs dérivés glycosidiques respectifs. L'extrait a montré un potentiel antioxydant et la capacité d'inhiber la cascade d'oxydation tant dans les phases d'initiation que de propagation. De plus, l'extrait a présenté une inhibition notable de l'activité antityrosinase, avec un résultat de 62.48 ± 2.09 à une concentration de 30.00 mg/mL. Les formulations ont été stables lors des tests de stabilité accélérés sur une période de 60 jours. CONCLUSION: Cette recherche démontre scientifiquement le potentiel d'une plante du biome de la Caatinga avec des propriétés antioxydantes et antityrosinases dans le développement de produits cosmétiques visant les effets anti­âge et l'harmonisation de la couleur de la peau, tout en ajoutant de la valeur à la chaîne de production de P. juliflora. Cette valorisation englobe divers aspects incluant des responsabilités environnementales, sociales et liées à la biodiversité.

Predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental characterizations: A review.

Emulsions in the form of creams, lotions, gels or foams are the most widely used personal care formulations to improve the condition and feel of the skin. Achieving an optimal balance between their performance, effectiveness and sensory profile is essential, with the sensory profile being a key factor in consumer satisfaction and the success of these products in the market. Well-established methods using highly trained and semi-trained panels (e.g. Spectrum descriptive analysis, Flash Profile method, Quantitative Descriptive Analysis method and 'Check-all-that-apply') are available and commonly used for the sensory assessment of personal care products. Nevertheless, a common drawback among all these methods is their inherent cost, both in terms of financial resources and time requirements. In recent years, research studies have emerged to address this limitation by investigating potential correlations between tactile sensory attributes and instrumental data associated with the physical characteristics of topical formulations. In other words, significant efforts have been invested in the development of robust instrumental methods specifically designed to accurately predict the sensory description that a panel of assessors could establish. These methods are not only faster, cheaper and more objective compared to traditional sensory testing, but they can also be applied to formulations that have not undergone extensive safety and toxicological testing. This review summarizes the most relevant findings, trends and current challenges in predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental parameters.

Les émulsions sous forme de crèmes, lotions, gels ou mousses sont les formulations de soins personnels les plus largement utilisées pour améliorer l'état et la sensation de la peau. Il est essentiel de parvenir à un équilibre parfait entre leur performance, leur efficacité et leur profil sensoriel, ce dernier étant un facteur clé de la satisfaction des consommateurs et du succès de ces produits sur le marché. Des méthodes bien établies utilisant des panels hautement qualifiés et semi­qualifiés sont disponibles et couramment utilisées pour l'évaluation sensorielle des produits de soins personnels. Néanmoins, un inconvénient commun à toutes ces méthodes est leur coût inhérent, tant en termes de ressources financières que de temps. Ces dernières années, nous avons assisté à l'émergence d'études de recherche tentant de remédier à ces limites en étudiant les corrélations potentielles entre les descripteurs sensoriels tactiles et les données instrumentales associées aux caractéristiques physiques des formulations topiques. En d'autres termes, des efforts importants ont été déployés dans le développement de méthodes instrumentales robustes spécifiquement conçues pour prédire avec précision la description sensorielle qu'un panel d'évaluateurs pourrait établir. Ces méthodes sont non seulement plus rapides, moins coûteuses et plus objectives par rapport aux tests sensoriels traditionnels, mais elles peuvent également être appliquées à des formulations qui n'ont pas été entièrement testées en termes de sécurité et de profils toxicologiques. La présente revue résume les résultats, tendances et défis actuels les plus pertinents dans la prédiction des attributs sensoriels tactiles des émulsions de soins personnels à partir de paramètres instrumentaux.

Surfactin as an ingredient in cosmetic industry: Benefits and trends.

Surfactin is a natural surfactant almost exclusively produced by Bacillus species with excellent physical-chemical, and biological properties. Among innovative applications, surfactin has been recently used as an ingredient in formulations. The antibacterial and anti-acne activities, as well as the anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, and cleansing features, are some of the reasons this lipopeptide is used in cosmetics. Considering the importance of biosurfactants in the world economy and sustainability, their potential properties for cosmetic and dermatological products, and the importance of patents for technological advancement in a circular bioeconomy system, the present study aims to review all patents involving surfactin as an ingredient in cosmetic formulas. This review was conducted through Espacenet, wherein patents containing the terms "cosmetic" and "surfactin" in their titles, abstracts, or claims were examined. Those patents that detailed a specific surfactin dosage within their formulations were selected for analysis. All patents, irrespective of their publication date, from October 1989 to December 2022, were considered. Additionally, a comprehensive search was performed in the MEDLINE and EMBASE databases, spanning from their inception until the year 2023. This complementary search aimed to enrich the understanding derived from patents, with a specific emphasis on surfactin, encompassing its associated advantages, efficacy, mechanisms of action on the skin, as well as aspects related to sustainability and its merits in cosmetic formulations. From the 105 patents analysed, 75% belong to Japan (54), China (14), and Korea (9). Most of them were submitted by Asian companies such as Showa Denko (15), Kaneka (11) and Kao Corporation (5). The formulations described are mainly emulsions, skincare, cleansing, and haircare, and the surfactin dose does not exceed 5%. Surfactin appears in different types of formulas worldwide and has a high tendency to be used. Surfactin and other biosurfactants are a promising alternative to chemical ingredients in cosmetic formulations, guaranteeing skin health benefits and minimizing the impact on the environment.

OBJECTIF: La surfactine est un agent tensioactif naturel presque exclusivement produit par les espèces de Bacillus, qui présente d'excellentes propriétés physico-chimiques et biologiques. Parmi les applications innovantes, la surfactine a été récemment utilisée comme ingrédient dans les formulations. Les activités antibactériennes et anti-acnéiques, ainsi que les propriétés antirides, hydratantes et nettoyantes, sont quelques-unes des raisons pour lesquelles ce lipopeptide est utilisé dans les cosmétiques. Compte tenu de l'importance des biosurfactants pour l'économie mondiale et la durabilité, de leurs propriétés potentielles pour les produits cosmétiques et dermatologiques, et de l'importance des brevets pour les progrès technologiques dans un système de bioéconomie circulaire, la présente étude vise à passer en revue tous les brevets impliquant la surfactine en tant qu'ingrédient dans les formules cosmétiques. MÉTHODES: Cet examen a été mené en utilisant Espacenet, dans lequel les brevets contenant les termes « cosmétique ¼ et « surfactine ¼ dans leurs titres, résumés ou revendications ont été examinés. Les brevets détaillant un dosage spécifique de surfactine dans leurs formulations ont été sélectionnés pour l'analyse. Tous les brevets, quelle que soit leur date de publication, d'octobre 1989 à décembre 2022, ont été pris en compte. En outre, une recherche complète a été effectuée dans les bases de données MEDLINE et EMBASE, depuis leur création jusqu'à l'année 2023. Cette recherche complémentaire visait à enrichir la compréhension dérivée de brevets, en mettant l'accent sur la surfactine, ses avantages associés, son efficacité, ses mécanismes d'action sur la peau, ainsi que les aspects liés à la durabilité et ses mérites dans les formulations cosmétiques. RÉSULTATS: Sur les 105 brevets analysés, 75 % appartiennent au Japon (54), à la Chine (14) et à la Corée (9). La plupart d'entre eux ont été soumis par des sociétés asiatiques telles que Showa Denko (15), Kaneka (11) et Kao Corporation (5). Les formulations décrites sont principalement des émulsions, des soins de la peau, des nettoyants et des soins capillaires, et la dose de surfactine n'excède pas 5 %. CONCLUSIONS: La surfactine apparaît dans différents types de formules dans le monde et conserve une forte tendance à l'utilisation. La surfactine et d'autres biosurfactants sont une alternative prometteuse aux ingrédients chimiques dans les formulations cosmétiques, garantissant des bénéfices pour la santé de la peau et minimisant l'impact sur l'environnement.

Nanofibers from soybean hull insoluble polysaccharides as Pickering stabilizers in oil-in-water emulsions formulated under acidic conditions.

BACKGROUND: Pickering emulsions are a kind of emulsion stabilized by solid particles. These particles generate a physical or mechanical barrier that provides long-term stability to emulsion. Cellulose nanofibers are effective Pickering emulsifiers given their long length, high flexibility and entanglement capability. In this work, soybean hull insoluble polysaccharides (HIPS) were used as source of cellulose nanofibers by using a combination of chemical and mechanical treatment. The chemical composition, morphology, flow behavior, water holding capacity (WHC) and emulsifying properties of the nanofibers were studied. RESULTS: Nanofibers with diameters between 35 and 110 nm were obtained. The WHC increased significantly after the mechanical treatment, and the rheological behavior of the nanofibers was typical of cellulosic materials. Nanofibers were effective emulsifiers in oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions formulated under acidic conditions, without the need of using any additional surfactant. Emulsions were not affected by changes in the pH of the medium (3.00-5.00), and were stable to coalescence. CONCLUSION: It is possible that cellulose nanofibers form an entangled network which acts as a mechanical steric barrier, providing stability to coalescence. These results are important for the development of effective O/W Pickering emulsifiers/stabilizers, with large applications in the food industry. © 2023 Society of Chemical Industry.