Lip color diversity: An intricate study.

BACKGROUND: Lip investigations and characterizations in the literature are less prevalent than for skin, particularly on the topic of color diversity. However, as the consumer demand increases for a nude lip makeup result, that is, shades close to the bare lip color, the identification and modification of lip color is essential for the cosmetic industry. OBJECTIVE: The objective was to highlight lip color diversity among three ethnicities (Caucasian, African and Hispanic), through the use of a spectral color measurement device especially adapted to the lip area, and to consider lip color ethnic specificities and overlaps. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The inferior natural lip color was measured with a full-face hyperspectral imaging system, SpectraFace (Newtone Technologies, Lyon, France), on 410 healthy women aged 19 to 68 (Caucasian French, Caucasian American, African American, and Hispanic American women). A hierarchical ascending classification, was deployed to determine clusters based on the lip colorimetric parameters along two strategies to identify the best statistical analysis to preserve the lip color diversity. RESULTS: Lip color is a continuous color space, with great intra-ethnic and inter-ethnic diversity, especially for African American women in terms of chroma and lightness. Among the two strategies of data analysis, our two-step statistical clustering analysis yielded 11 groups (i.e., 11 lip tones), revealing an accurate representation of the scope of diversity, but also of the overlaps. CONCLUSION: The 11 lip tones/colors could potentially serve as target shades for the development of a more diverse and inclusive range of lip cosmetics, such as nude lipsticks.

Reverse skin aging signs by red light photobiomodulation.

BACKGROUND: Photobiomodulation is a process by which the absorption of red light energy produces a series of physiological effects at the cellular level such as the enhancement of mitochondrial Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP) production, cell signaling and growth factor synthesis, and the reduction of oxidative stress. Light emitting diodes (LEDs) photobiomodulation is an increasingly popular therapy for treating skin problems, especially for reversing the signs of skin aging. OBJECTIVE: The objective of this study is to demonstrate the effectiveness of a photobiomodulation treatment using red LEDs on the facial skin at a rate of two sessions per week for 3 months. The LED mask used is the Skin Light Dior x Lucibel mask diffusing a cold red light with a wavelength of 630 ± 10 nm and a power of 15.6 J/cm2 for a duration of 12 min. METHOD: In order to demonstrate the effectiveness of the mask in reversing the signs of skin aging, a clinical study was conducted on 20 healthy Caucasian women: the antiwrinkle effect by measuring the depth of the crow's feet wrinkle, the relaxation of the oval of the face by clinical scoring, the firmness and elasticity of the skin by cutometric measurement, the density of the dermis by ultrasound analysis, the smoothness of the skin by measuring the roughness at the cheek, the homogeneity of the complexion by chromametric measurement, the diameter of the pores by macrophotographs and finally the sebo-regulating effect by measurement of the rate of sebum and quantification of the number of pores containing porphyrin in the subjects presenting a mixed to oily skin. The satisfaction of the volunteers was also evaluated at the end of the study via a self-questionnaire. RESULTS: The efficacy results measured after 1, 2, and 3 months of use are progressive and confirm the interest of LED photobiomodulation to reverse the visible signs of skin aging. All the volunteers observed an overall improvement in skin quality. CONCLUSION: All the results observed confirm the interest of using photobiomodulation to reverse the visible signs of aging. These results last for up to 1 month after stopping the use of the mask, which is a sign of lasting structural and functional rejuvenation of the skin.

In vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy of the human skin: highlighting of spectral markers associated to aging via a research of correlation between Raman and biometric mechanical measurements.

Skin plays a protective role against the loss of water and external aggression, including mechanical stresses. These crucial functions are ensured by different cutaneous layers, particularly the stratum corneum (SC). During aging, the human skin reveals some apparent modifications of functionalities such as a loss of elasticity. Our investigations aimed at demonstrating that Raman microspectroscopy, as a label-free technique with a high molecular specificity, is efficient to assess in vivo the molecular composition of the skin and the alterations underwent during aging. Our approach was based on a search for correlation between Raman data collected on healthy female volunteers of different ages (from 21 to 70 years old) by means of a remote confocal Raman and skin firmness measurements used as a reference method. Raman and biometric data were then submitted to a partial least square (PLS)-based data processing. Our experiments demonstrated the potential of Raman microspectroscopy to provide an objective in vivo assessment of the skin "biological age" that can be very different from the "chronological age" of the person. In addition, Raman features sensitive to the elasticity and the fatigability of the SC were highlighted. Thereafter, calibration transfer functions were constructed to show the possibility to compare the results obtained during two distinct measurement campaigns conducted with two Raman probes of the same conception. This approach could lead to several interesting prospects, in particular by objectifying the effects of dermocosmetic products on the superficial layers of the skin and by accessing some underlying molecular mechanisms.