Evaluating the factors influencing sun protection factors (SPF): Pooling data from multiple studies involving two reference ISO 24444:2019 sunscreen products (P2 and P8).

BACKGROUND: Standardized methods for sun protection factor (SPF) testing are still beset with endpoint and method-driven issues, and can be influenced by multiple factors. The purpose of this analysis is to explore the factors influencing the results of sun protection factor (SPF) testing in human subjects according to the ISO 24444:2019 standard. Intrinsic factors, such as baseline skin color, age and gender, the minimal erythemal dose on an unprotected area (MEDu), as well as environmental factors such as season/weather influences, are considered for analysis. METHODS: Datasets generated for two reference products (P2 and P8) during the conduct of 50 such studies using the ISO standard 24444:2019 for the testing of SPF products, from a single testing center located in Bucharest, Romania between April 2021 and December 2022, were retrieved and compiled. Overall, the data for 334 subjects was available, with 276 observations for the reference P8, and 171 for P2. RESULTS: No effects due to gender or age were detected. Seasonal changes, the individual typology angle (ITA°) and MEDu were found to have an influence on the outcome of the SPF values. CONCLUSIONS: This study adds new original data about the impact of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on SPF variations pertaining to ISO reference sunscreen P8 (SPF 50+). The findings suggest that some factors will inevitably impact the results between two SPF experiments for the same product and SPF testing laboratory. The interconnections between the sources of this variation are discussed. The findings of this research help to identify and characterize factors that contribute to SPF testing variability.

The protective effect of a novel sunscreen against blue light.

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVE: Premature skin ageing, and skin hyperpigmentation are influenced by exogenous factors, such as ultraviolet radiation and blue light. In this study, we assess the protective effect of a sunscreen (TDF® Blu Voile Sunscreen) in protecting the skin against the harmful effects of blue light irradiation in vivo and through the in situ quantitative and qualitative evaluation of protein carbonylation in human skin explants. METHODOLOGY: The protective effect of the test product against blue light was first evaluated ex vivo on human skin explants. The treated and non-treated explants were exposed to 14 J/cm2 of blue light 460 nm following which the protein carbonylation was evaluated by in situ epifluorescence imaging and separation by high-resolution gel electrophoresis. To determine whether the test product could also protect against the immediate and persistent pigmenting effect of blue light, two randomized in vivo studies were conducted, which included respectively 17 subjects with a skin phototype of IV and V (Fitzpatrick classification) and 22 subjects with a skin phototype of IV, V, and VI (Fitzpatrick classification). The duration of the study for each subject was 2 days (D1 and D2) for immediate observations and 5 days (D1-D5) for persistent observations. Specific zones on the subjects' back were either left non-treated or treated with the test product and were then exposed to a unique dose of blue light 415 nm. The onset of pigmentation between the treated and exposed zones was then assessed relative to the non-exposed treated zone through colorimetric measurements of the Individual Typology Angle (ITAo ). RESULTS: Human skin explants treated with test product showed significantly lower levels of accumulated carbonylated proteins, with a protection of 82%, following exposure to blue light 460 nm. Findings of the in vivo studies also indicated that the test product presented significantly better protective efficacy against immediate and persistent pigmentation induced by blue light 415 nm. CONCLUSION: Hence, it can be concluded that the test product can protect against the oxidative stress as well as the immediate and persistent pigmentation induced by blue light.

CONTEXTE ET OBJECTIF: Le vieillissement prématuré de la peau et l'hyperpigmentation cutanée sont influencés par des facteurs exogènes, tels que les rayons ultraviolets et la lumière bleue. Dans cette étude, nous évaluons l'effet protecteur d'un écran solaire (TDF® Blu Voile Sunscreen) en matière de protection de la peau contre les effets nocifs de l'irradiation à la lumière bleue in vivo et par l'évaluation quantitative et qualitative in situ de la carbonylation des protéines dans des explants cutanés humains. MÉTHODOLOGIE: L'effet protecteur du produit testé contre la lumière bleue a d'abord été évalué ex vivo sur des explants cutanés humains. Les explants traités et non traités ont été exposés à 14 J/cm2 de lumière bleue à 460 nm, après quoi la carbonylation des protéines a été évaluée par imagerie par épifluorescence in situ et séparation par électrophorèse sur gel à haute résolution. Afin de déterminer si le produit testé pouvait également protéger contre la pigmentation immédiate et persistante dues à lumière bleue, deux études in vivo randomisées incluant respectivement 17 sujets ayant un phototype cutané IV et V (classification de Fitzpatrick) et 22 sujets ayant un phototype cutané IV, V et VI (classification de Fitzpatrick) ont été menées. La durée de l'étude pour chaque sujet était de 2 jours (J1 et J2) pour les observations immédiates et de 5 jours (J1 à J5) pour les observations persistantes. Des zones spécifiques du dos des sujets ont été laissées non traitées ou bien traitées avec le produit testé, et ont ensuite été exposées à une dose unique de lumière bleue à 415 nm. L'apparition de la pigmentation entre les zones traitées et exposées a ensuite été évaluée par rapport à la zone traitée non exposée par des mesures colorimétriques de l'angle typologique individuel (Individual Typology Angle, ITAo). RÉSULTATS: Les explants cutanés humains traités avec le produit testé ont montré des taux significativement plus faibles de protéines carbonylées accumulées, avec une protection de 82 %, après une exposition à la lumière bleue à 460 nm. Les résultats des études in vivo ont également indiqué que le produit testé présentait une efficacité protectrice significativement meilleure contre la pigmentation immédiate et persistante induite par la lumière bleue à 415 nm. CONCLUSION: Par conséquent, on peut conclure que le produit testé peut protéger contre le stress oxydatif ainsi que contre la pigmentation immédiate et persistante induite par la lumière bleue.

Human intracellular ISG15 prevents interferon-α/ß over-amplification and auto-inflammation.

Intracellular ISG15 is an interferon (IFN)-α/ß-inducible ubiquitin-like modifier which can covalently bind other proteins in a process called ISGylation; it is an effector of IFN-α/ß-dependent antiviral immunity in mice. We previously published a study describing humans with inherited ISG15 deficiency but without unusually severe viral diseases. We showed that these patients were prone to mycobacterial disease and that human ISG15 was non-redundant as an extracellular IFN-γ-inducing molecule. We show here that ISG15-deficient patients also display unanticipated cellular, immunological and clinical signs of enhanced IFN-α/ß immunity, reminiscent of the Mendelian autoinflammatory interferonopathies Aicardi-Goutières syndrome and spondyloenchondrodysplasia. We further show that an absence of intracellular ISG15 in the patients' cells prevents the accumulation of USP18, a potent negative regulator of IFN-α/ß signalling, resulting in the enhancement and amplification of IFN-α/ß responses. Human ISG15, therefore, is not only redundant for antiviral immunity, but is a key negative regulator of IFN-α/ß immunity. In humans, intracellular ISG15 is IFN-α/ß-inducible not to serve as a substrate for ISGylation-dependent antiviral immunity, but to ensure USP18-dependent regulation of IFN-α/ß and prevention of IFN-α/ß-dependent autoinflammation.

A novel method for evaluating the effect of pollution on the human skin under controlled conditions.

BACKGROUND: Generally considered as a major risk factor for various respiratory diseases, air pollution can also have a significant impact on the skin. To date, there is a plethora of cosmetics products with "anti-pollution" claims. However, these claims have not been fully substantiated with robust scientific evidence and currently there is no standardized method in place for validating the anti-pollution efficacy of cosmetics products. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This article discusses an innovative Controlled Pollution Exposure System (CPES) which allows quantified administration of pollutants on the skin and analysis of their direct impact. Using CPES, human subjects were exposed to ambient dust and ozone and sebum were sampled and analyzed for biomarkers. RESULTS: Following exposure of human subjects' skin to either ambient dust(100-450 µg/cm3 ) or ozone(100-1000 ppb), analysis of sebum revealed a significant decrease in squalene concentration, and significant increases in squalene monohydroperoxide and malondialdehyde concentration. CONCLUSION: The findings demonstrate cutaneous oxidative stress induced by ambient dust and ozone. The findings also demonstrate the efficacy of CPES to accurately measure the direct effect of controlled gaseous and particulate pollutants on human skin and indicate that squalene, squalene monohydroperoxide and malondialdehyde may serve as potent biomarkers for evaluating potential anti-pollution claims of cosmetics products.

USP18 establishes the transcriptional and anti-proliferative interferon α/ß differential.

Type I IFNs (interferons) are pathogen-induced immunoregulatory cytokines that exert anti-viral and anti-proliferative activities through binding to a common cell-surface receptor. Among the 17 human IFN subtypes, IFNß binds the IFNAR (IFNα receptor) 1/IFNAR2 receptor chains with particularly high affinity and is especially potent in select bioactivities (e.g. anti-proliferative and pro-apoptotic) when compared with IFNα2. However, no molecular basis has been ascribed to this differential action, since the two ligands are equipotent in immediate early signalling events. In the present study we report that IFNß induces Stat (signal transducer and activator of transcription) phosphorylation and transcriptional activation of ISGs (interferon-stimulated genes), including two genes with pro-apoptotic functions, for a considerably longer time frame than does IFNα2. We show that the diversification of α2/ß responses progressively builds up at the receptor level as a result of accumulating USP18 (ubiquitin specific protease 18), itself an ISG, which exerts its negative feedback action by taking advantage of the weakness of IFNα2 binding to the receptor. This represents a novel type of signalling regulation that diversifies the biological potential of IFNs α and ß.

Benefits of the Dermocosmetic Mineral 89 Probiotic Fractions Adjunct to Topical Retinoids for Anti-Aging Benefits.

Purpose: Tretinoin is a topical gold standard for photoaging treatment. However, patient adherence can be impaired by local tolerability in the first 1-2 weeks of treatment. Mineral 89 Probiotic Fractions® (M89PF) containing Vichy volcanic mineralizing water®, probiotic fractions, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and tocopherol was developed to fulfill the need for adjunctive products that can reinforce skin barrier and manage retinoid induced irritation. Patients and Methods: The study included 38 women, aged 44-60 years, phototype II-VI, applying 0.025% tretinoin gel once nightly for 84 days. For 28 days, one hemi face was treated with M89PF and sunscreen SPF 50+ while other hemi face received sunscreen only. Then, M89PF application was changed to full face. Evaluations were performed at days 0, 7, 28 and 84. Erythema, dryness, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance were assessed by a dermatologist. Tolerability was evaluated through self-assessment questionnaire. Skin hydration levels, inflammatory and oxidative stress biomarkers were analyzed by immunological assay: Interleukin(IL)-8, IL1-alpha, IL1-Receptor Antagonist (IL-1Ra), Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), Catalase and Superoxide Dismutase (SOD). Results: Hemiface analysis showed that erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance, pore appearance, hydration, tightness, dryness, burning, itching and stinging sensations were improved (p<0.05) on the M89PF side. At full face analysis on D84, erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance were improved compared to D0 (p<0.001). Tightness, dryness, burning, itching and stinging were reduced when compared to D7 (p<0.05). Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) and Skindex 16 showed improvement in quality of life (p<0.05). IL-1RA increased at D28 (p=0.003) and PGE2 decreased at D28 and D84 compared to D0 (p<0.01). Conclusion: M89PF reduced retinoid induced irritation with a good tolerability profile and, used as an adjunct to topical tretinoin, significantly improved skin hydration, erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance.

ISG15 deficiency and increased viral resistance in humans but not mice.

ISG15 is an interferon (IFN)-α/ß-induced ubiquitin-like protein. It exists as a free molecule, intracellularly and extracellularly, and conjugated to target proteins. Studies in mice have demonstrated a role for Isg15 in antiviral immunity. By contrast, human ISG15 was shown to have critical immune functions, but not in antiviral immunity. Namely, free extracellular ISG15 is crucial in IFN-γ-dependent antimycobacterial immunity, while free intracellular ISG15 is crucial for USP18-mediated downregulation of IFN-α/ß signalling. Here we describe ISG15-deficient patients who display no enhanced susceptibility to viruses in vivo, in stark contrast to Isg15-deficient mice. Furthermore, fibroblasts derived from ISG15-deficient patients display enhanced antiviral protection, and expression of ISG15 attenuates viral resistance to WT control levels. The species-specific gain-of-function in antiviral immunity observed in ISG15 deficiency is explained by the requirement of ISG15 to sustain USP18 levels in humans, a mechanism not operating in mice.

Receptor dimerization dynamics as a regulatory valve for plasticity of type I interferon signaling.

Type I interferons (IFNs) activate differential cellular responses through a shared cell surface receptor composed of the two subunits, IFNAR1 and IFNAR2. We propose here a mechanistic model for how IFN receptor plasticity is regulated on the level of receptor dimerization. Quantitative single-molecule imaging of receptor assembly in the plasma membrane of living cells clearly identified IFN-induced dimerization of IFNAR1 and IFNAR2. The negative feedback regulator ubiquitin-specific protease 18 (USP18) potently interferes with the recruitment of IFNAR1 into the ternary complex, probably by impeding complex stabilization related to the associated Janus kinases. Thus, the responsiveness to IFNα2 is potently down-regulated after the first wave of gene induction, while IFNß, due to its ∼100-fold higher binding affinity, is still able to efficiently recruit IFNAR1. Consistent with functional data, this novel regulatory mechanism at the level of receptor assembly explains how signaling by IFNß is maintained over longer times compared with IFNα2 as a temporally encoded cause of functional receptor plasticity.

USP18-based negative feedback control is induced by type I and type III interferons and specifically inactivates interferon α response.

Type I interferons (IFN) are cytokines that are rapidly secreted upon microbial infections and regulate all aspects of the immune response. In humans 15 type I IFN subtypes exist, of which IFN α2 and IFN ß are used in the clinic for treatment of different pathologies. IFN α2 and IFN ß are non redundant in their expression and in their potency to exert specific bioactivities. The more recently identified type III IFNs (3 IFN λ or IL-28/IL-29) bind an unrelated cell-type restricted receptor. Downstream of these two receptor complexes is a shared Jak/Stat pathway. Several mechanisms that contribute to the shut down of the IFN-induced signaling have been described at the molecular level. In particular, it has long been known that type I IFN induces the establishment of a desensitized state. In this work we asked how the IFN-induced desensitization integrates into the network built by the multiple type I IFN subtypes and type III IFNs. We show that priming of cells with either type I IFN or type III IFN interferes with the cell's ability to further respond to all IFN α subtypes. Importantly, primed cells are differentially desensitized in that they retain sensitivity to IFN ß. We show that USP18 is necessary and sufficient to induce differential desensitization, by impairing the formation of functional binding sites for IFN α2. Our data highlight a new type of differential between IFNs α and IFN ß and underline a cross-talk between type I and type III IFN. This cross-talk could shed light on the reported genetic variation in the IFN λ loci, which has been associated with persistence of hepatitis C virus and patient's response to IFN α2 therapy.