The correlates of environmental initiatives in sports organizations with climate change attitudes and subjective well-being.

BACKGROUND: To recognize the interplay between climate change and public health, this study examines the impact of sports organizations' environmental initiatives on members' subjective well-being (SWB) and climate change attitudes (CCA). Drawing on the theoretical tenets of pro-social behavior, organizational initiatives aiming at protecting and improving the natural environment can be viewed as altruistic. This altruism can in turn increase SWB. METHODS: The analysis uses survey data from the 2022 Eurobarometer, including 27 European countries and 6311 members of different types of sports organizations. Seemingly unrelated regression models were employed to assess the associations of various environmental initiatives with members' SWB and CCA. RESULTS: The total number of initiatives and specific initiatives, such as promoting green energy and waste reduction, are positively correlated with members' CCA. However, there is no effect on SWB. CONCLUSION: Organizational environmental initiatives may shape members' attitudes towards climate change but do not seem to affect their SWB. This would suggest that environmental protection does not come at the expense of SWB. Thus, sports organizations represent a context to promote environmental protection along with public health.

Sexual harassment and implicit gender-career biases negatively impact women's life expectancy in the US: a state-level analysis, 2011-2019.

BACKGROUND: Despite some gains, women continue to have less access to work and poorer experiences in the workplace, relative to men. The purpose of this study was to examine the relationships among women's life expectancy and two work-related factors, sexual harassment and gender-career biases. METHOD: We examined the associations at the state level of analysis (and District of Columbia) in the US from 2011 to 2019 (n = 459) using archival data from various sources. Measures of the ratio of population to primary health providers, year, the percent of adults who are uninsured, the percent of residents aged 65 or older, and percent of residents who are Non-Hispanic White all served as controls. RESULTS: Results of linear regression models showed that, after accounting for the controls, sexual harassment and gender-career biases among people in the state held significant, negative associations with women's life expectancy. CONCLUSION: The study contributes to the small but growing literature showing that negative workplace experiences and bias against women in the workplace negatively impact women's health.

Willingness to pay for policies to reduce health risks from COVID-19: Evidence from U.S. professional sports.

Airborne transmission of the COVID-19 virus increased the need for health policies to reduce transmission in congregate settings associated with minimal risk before the pandemic. While a large literature estimates tradeoffs between policies designed to reduce negative health outcomes, no empirical research addresses consumer willingness to pay (WTP) for health policies designed to reduce airborne virus transmission. Using survey data from 1381 fans of professional sports, we estimate consumers' WTP for reduced likelihood of coronavirus transmission through mask and social distancing policies using a stated preference approach. The results indicate increased attendance likelihood if the venue requires masks and limits attendance, with significant heterogeneity in WTP across risk scenarios and sports. We characterize consumers as casual fans who prefer a mask requirement but are indifferent to capacity constraints, strong fans who are anti-maskers and prefer capacity constraints, and a second group of casual fans with positive WTP under both mask and limited capacity requirements. For example, casual fans' WTP for masking, $38 per National Basketball Association (NBA) game attended, is more than double their WTP for capacity constraints only. Strong fans' WTP for attending capacity constrained NBA games was $490, more than 400% higher than the pre-pandemic average WTP of $105.

Coping with adversity: physical activity as a moderator in adaption to bereavement.

BACKGROUND: The adaption of individuals to adverse life events such as bereavement which reduce their subjective well-being is referred to as the hedonic treadmill. This study examined whether previous physical activity moderates the negative impact of bereavement on subjective well-being and how quickly such adaption occurs. METHODS: The analysis uses data from 13 waves (1996-2015) of the German Socio-Economic Panel (n = 139 097). Subjective well-being is captured with respondents' life satisfaction. Individual fixed effects regression models with three-wave lagged effects and interaction effects for bereavement and previous physical activity were estimated for females and males. RESULTS: The significant reduction in life satisfaction is partly offset for individuals who were physically active prior to the adversity, suggesting moderation effects of previous physical activity. These effects are larger in absolute value for females, but females also suffered more severely from bereavement. Males' partial adaption through previous physical activity is closer to the pre-event level, while females adapt earlier. More frequent previous physical activity allows both genders to partially adapt more. CONCLUSIONS: Previous physical activity helps individuals suffering bereavement to partially adapt faster to such adversity, suggesting that physical activity accelerates the hedonic treadmill, though at a different pace for each gender.

The relationship between physical activity and out-of-pocket health care costs of the elderly in Europe.

BACKGROUND: Increasing health care costs represent an economic burden placed on individuals across many European countries. Against this backdrop, the aim of this study was to examine the relationship between participation in physical activity and out-of-pocket health care costs in Europe. METHODS: Individual data from the cross-national Survey of Health, Ageing and Retirement (n = 94 267) including 16 European countries were utilized. Two-part models were estimated to investigate how different levels of participation frequency in physical activity are related to out-of-pocket costs (OOPC) for people aged 50 years and older. RESULTS: Only participation in physical activity more than once a week significantly decreases the probability of incurring any OOPC. However, all frequencies of physical activity significantly reduce the level of costs, with the highest savings being generated by participation once a week. The results reveal higher savings for men compared to women. CONCLUSION: Physical activity can be a useful policy instrument to reduce the economic burden of out-of-pocket health care costs for an aging population in Europe. Public officials should primarily promote physical activity interventions targeting older people who are not active at all.

Intensity of physical activity and subjective well-being: an empirical analysis of the WHO recommendations.

Background: This study examined the effect of different intensities of physical activity and the recommendations of the World Health Organization (WHO) on the subjective well-being (SWB) of adults in two age groups (18-64; 65+). Methods: Cross-sectional survey data from 28 European countries were used for the analysis (n = 21 008). Participation intensity was measured with the number of days and minutes of light (walking), moderate and vigorous activity. Another three dummy variables reflected how the WHO guidelines were met. Two-stage least square models were estimated with life satisfaction (measuring SWB) as the dependent variable. Results: For 18- to 64-year-olds, walking (minutes and days/week) and vigorous activity (minutes/week) significantly added to SWB, while moderate activity (minutes/week) had a negative effect. Individuals in both age groups meeting the guidelines only for moderate activity and those meeting the guidelines for both moderate and vigorous activity or using a combination of both reported significantly higher well-being levels compared with those not meeting the guidelines. Conclusions: Physical activity recommendations aiming at improving individuals' mental health should reconsider the inclusion of light-intensity activity, the interchangeability of moderate and vigorous activity, and the fact that more physical activity does not lead to better outcomes for all intensities and age groups.

Does government spending help to promote healthy behavior in the population? Evidence from 27 European countries.

BACKGROUND: The aim of this study was to examine if government spending is associated with an individual's decision to participate in physical activity and sport which is regarded as healthy behavior given the positive health effects documented in previous research. METHODS: Individual-level data (n = 25 243) containing socio-demographic information are combined with national-level data on government spending (5-year average) in 27 European countries. Given the hierarchical data structure, i.e. individuals are nested within countries; multi-level analyses are applied. RESULTS: The multi-level models show that it is mainly education spending that has a significant positive association with participation in sport of various regularities. Health spending has some association with participation in other physical activity and sport of a lower regularity. CONCLUSIONS: While health spending can be considered a relevant policy tool for increasing sport participation rates, education spending is required more since the effects are larger and it affects both physical activity and sport. This suggests that health spending will have most effect combined with earlier influences from education spending.

The relationship between intensity and duration of physical activity and subjective well-being.

AIM: Previous research documented a positive effect of physical activity on subjective well-being (SWB). Yet, mainly broad activity measures (e.g. resulting from yes-no questions) were used and the effect of different participation intensities and durations has been largely neglected. The aim of this study is to examine the effect of physical activity on SWB by focusing on participation intensity and duration. METHODS: Survey data from 28 European countries are used for the analysis (n = 22 971). Two regression models (Generalized Method of Moments) are estimated which analyze the effect of participation intensity and duration on SWB (measured by life satisfaction). Given the endogeneity of the participation measures, instrumental variables are used (sport opportunities, club membership, time spent sitting). The models also control for other factors that could affect SWB (e.g. age, occupation). RESULTS: The results for participation intensity show that the number of days people practised at moderate intensity in the week prior to the interview have a significant and positive effect on SWB, while the number of days with vigorous-intensity activity has a significant and negative impact. Similarly, the models for duration indicate that the minutes spent on moderate-intensity activity significantly add to SWB, while the minutes spent on vigorous-intensity activity significantly reduce the level of SWB. CONCLUSIONS: The findings challenge the World Health Organization's recommendation in the sense that activity at moderate and vigorous intensity is not interchangeable if the aim is to also improve SWB (and not only physical health).

Physical activity and subjective well-being: the role of time.

This study examines the role of time in explaining the effect of physical activity on subjective well-being. Specifically, it looks at the composite structure of time needed for participation in a time-efficient fitness programme and how different time components affect satisfaction with health, leisure time, fitness, body and look. This quasi-experimental study consisted of three stages: (i) physical entry test and pre-survey, (ii) training intervention (30 min; performed twice a week over a 4-week period) and (iii) exit test and post-survey. A total of N = 10 481 individuals participated across 316 German fitness centres. Regression results show that total time spent significantly increases satisfaction with health and fitness. Time spent on approach and parking reduces satisfaction with leisure time, while time spent on wellness and showering increases it. Spending time in the bistro increases satisfaction with health and fitness. Time spent on the actual fitness training has no significant effect on either satisfaction measure. The findings indicate that it is important to consider the composite structure of time needed for physical activity because other activities matter more than the actual time spent on exercising. Public health policies and policy makers should therefore support such time-efficient programmes.

Gender stereotypes and their correlates: the moderating role of voluntary sports club membership.

Introduction: This study examined the correlates of gender stereotypes and the moderating role of membership in a voluntary sports club. Drawing on the contact hypothesis, this study argues that gender stereotypes are lower when individuals regularly have the opportunity to meet and play sport with such people, for example in a voluntary sports club. Methods: Survey data from the European Values Study are used for the analysis (n = 36,185; 30 countries). Gender stereotypes are measured with statements on gender role attributes. Results: Regression results show that membership in a voluntary sports club, being a student, income, and living in a more gender equal country significantly reduce gender stereotypes. On the contrary, male gender, living in a partnership, having children, lower and medium education, part-time employment, self-employment, unemployment, being a home maker, and living in a small town are correlates of higher gender stereotypes. Interacting the latter correlates with sports club membership support its moderating effect in the sense that most correlates turn insignificant or have smaller coefficients. The only variables retaining their coefficient size are self-employment and living in a small town. Discussion: The findings support the contact hypothesis and suggest that sports clubs are places that lessen gender stereotypes.

The perceived role fit of women and men academics: evidence from the social sports sciences.

Introduction: The underrepresentation of women in academia is often explained by the presence of gender stereotypes and the perception that women fit the role of an academic to a lesser extent. Based on social role theory and role congruity theory, this study investigates and estimates the perceived role fit of women and men academics in the social sports sciences. Methods: Data were collected with a quantitative online survey. The sample (n = 792) includes individuals who study or work in sports economics, sport management, or sport sociology (referred to as social sports sciences). The questionnaire included items that reflect attributes of an ideal-typical academic as well as women and men academics in four dimensions, i.e., leadership, research methods, media visibility, and research topics. In the first step, these items were used to estimate a total role fit index for both women and men academics, as well as indices for all dimensions. In a second step, regression analyses were used to examine how respondents' individual characteristics (e.g., discipline, career stage, gender, presence of role models) are related to their perceived role fit indices and the differences in the perceived role fit. Results and discussion: The role fit index ranges from 0 to 1, and women have a higher total role fit than men (0.77 vs. 0.75). The results suggest that women in the social sports sciences are perceived as a better fit for the role of an academic. In contrast to role congruity theory, women's leadership fit is higher than men's fit in this dimension (0.79 vs. 0.72). Regarding the associations of individual characteristics, professors seem to perceive a lower role fit for both genders than students. Furthermore, the difference between the perceived role fit of men and women is smaller for women respondents. Having a woman role model leads to a higher fit of women academics in the leadership dimension.

The relationship between leisure-time physical activity and job satisfaction: A dynamic panel data approach.

OBJECTIVE: Previous research has documented a positive effect of leisure-time physical activity (LTPA) on life satisfaction. The relationship between physical activity and the specific domain of job satisfaction is, however, relatively unknown. This study aims to investigate the effects of different frequency levels of LTPA on self-reported job satisfaction and specifically focuses on the two mechanisms of health and recovery from work stress. METHODS: Using data from the German Socio-Economic Panel (2001-2019), fixed effects and dynamic panel data regression models are estimated to address the problems of unobserved heterogeneity and reverse causality. A mediation and sub-sample analysis shed light on the role of health and work stress. RESULTS: The results reveal that weekly LTPA has a positive effect on job satisfaction and that health represents a channel yielding those benefits. The effect appears to be moderated by work stress. Further, the analysis reveals the importance of considering unobserved heterogeneity and reverse causality when studying this relationship. CONCLUSION: The findings indicate a positive relationship between regular LTPA and job satisfaction and add plausible causal evidence to the limited literature in this context. The findings yield implications for employers and employees.

Sport in prison: social and subjective health outcomes of different sport programs.

PURPOSE: The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of four different sport programs on various social and subjective health outcomes among prisoners. DESIGN/METHODOLOGY/APPROACH: Four different sport programs (endurance, strength, dance-like martial arts, soccer) were provided in 2020 and 2021 in a German prison. Participants completed paper-pencil surveys before and after the sport programs (n = 134 observations), including questions about potential social health (enjoyment of physical activity, interpersonal exchange, interpersonal trust, self-efficacy) and subjective health outcomes (health status, health satisfaction, well-being). Further information such as prisoner characteristics were added to the data. FINDINGS: Results of regression analyses show that the endurance program had a significant positive effect on interpersonal trust, while the soccer program had a negative effect. Subjective well-being increased significantly after the strength and the soccer program. The weekly sport hours before imprisonment had a positive association with enjoyment of physical activity and interpersonal exchange while being negatively related to health status and health satisfaction. Furthermore, the number of months of imprisonment before the survey, being a young offender, the prisoners' body mass index, educational level and migration background were significantly associated with several social and subjective health outcomes. ORIGINALITY/VALUE: This study analyzed the effects of different sport programs for prisoners on various social and subjective health outcomes, revealing differences across programs and outcomes. The findings suggest that sport can be a way to enhance prisoners' social and subjective health, ultimately facilitating their rehabilitation process.

Restricted nasal-only breathing during self-selected low intensity training does not affect training intensity distribution.

Introduction: Low-intensity endurance training is frequently performed at gradually higher training intensities than intended, resulting in a shift towards threshold training. By restricting oral breathing and only allowing for nasal breathing this shift might be reduced. Methods: Nineteen physically healthy adults (3 females, age: 26.5 ± 5.1 years; height: 1.77 ± 0.08 m; body mass: 77.3 ± 11.4 kg; VO2peak: 53.4 ± 6.6 mL·kg-1 min-1) performed 60 min of self-selected, similar (144.7 ± 56.3 vs. 147.0 ± 54.2 W, p = 0.60) low-intensity cycling with breathing restriction (nasal-only breathing) and without restrictions (oro-nasal breathing). During these sessions heart rate, respiratory gas exchange data and power output data were recorded continuously. Results: Total ventilation (p < 0.001, ηp 2 = 0.45), carbon dioxide release (p = 0.02, ηp 2 = 0.28), oxygen uptake (p = 0.03, ηp 2 = 0.23), and breathing frequency (p = 0.01, ηp 2 = 0.35) were lower during nasal-only breathing. Furthermore, lower capillary blood lactate concentrations were found towards the end of the training session during nasal-only breathing (time x condition-interaction effect: p = 0.02, ηp 2 = 0.17). Even though discomfort was rated marginally higher during nasal-only breathing (p = 0.03, ηp 2 = 0.24), ratings of perceived effort did not differ between the two conditions (p ≥ 0.06, ηp 2 = 0.01). No significant "condition" differences were found for intensity distribution (time spent in training zone quantified by power output and heart rate) (p ≥ 0.24, ηp 2 ≤ 0.07). Conclusion: Nasal-only breathing seems to be associated with possible physiological changes that may help to maintain physical health in endurance athletes during low intensity endurance training. However, it did not prevent participants from performing low-intensity training at higher intensities than intended. Longitudinal studies are warranted to evaluate longitudinal responses of changes in breathing patterns.

Increased oxygen uptake in well-trained runners during uphill high intensity running intervals: A randomized crossover testing.

The time spent above 90% of maximal oxygen uptake ( V ˙ O2max) during high-intensity interval training (HIIT) sessions is intended to be maximized to improve V ˙ O2max. Since uphill running serves as a promising means to increase metabolic cost, we compared even and moderately inclined running in terms of time ≥90% V ˙ O2max and its corresponding physiological surrogates. Seventeen well-trained runners (8 females & 9 males; 25.8 ± 6.8yrs; 1.75 ± 0.08m; 63.2 ± 8.4kg; V ˙ O2max: 63.3 ± 4.2 ml/min/kg) randomly completed both a horizontal (1% incline) and uphill (8% incline) HIIT protocol (4-times 5min, with 90s rest). Mean oxygen uptake ( V ˙ O2mean), peak oxygen uptake ( V ˙ O2peak), lactate, heart rate (HR), and perceived exertion (RPE) were measured. Uphill HIIT revealed higher (p ≤ 0.012; partial eta-squared (pes) ≥ 0.351) V ˙ O2mean (uphill: 3.3 ± 0.6 vs. horizontal: 3.2 ± 0.5 L/min; standardized mean difference (SMD) = 0.15), V ˙ O2peak (uphill: 4.0 ± 0.7 vs. horizontal: 3.8 ± 0.7 L/min; SMD = 0.19), and accumulated time ≥90% V ˙ O2max (uphill: 9.1 ± 4.6 vs. horizontal: 6.4 ± 4.0 min; SMD = 0.62) compared to even HIIT. Lactate, HR, and RPE responses did not show mode*time rANOVA interaction effects (p ≥ 0.097; pes ≤0.14). Compared to horizontal HIIT, moderate uphill HIIT revealed higher fractions of V ˙ O2max at comparable perceived efforts, heartrate and lactate response. Therefore, moderate uphill HiiT notably increased time spent above 90% V ˙ O2max.

Good Scientific Practice and Ethics in Sports and Exercise Science: A Brief and Comprehensive Hands-on Appraisal for Sports Research.

Sports and exercise training research is constantly evolving to maintain, improve, or regain psychophysical, social, and emotional performance. Exercise training research requires a balance between the benefits and the potential risks. There is an inherent risk of scientific misconduct and adverse events in most sports; however, there is a need to minimize it. We aim to provide a comprehensive overview of the clinical and ethical challenges in sports and exercise research. We also enlist solutions to improve method design in clinical trials and provide checklists to minimize the chances of scientific misconduct. At the outset, historical milestones of exercise science literature are summarized. It is followed by details about the currently available regulations that help to reduce the risk of violating good scientific practices. We also outline the unique characteristics of sports-related research with a narrative of the major differences between sports and drug-based trials. An emphasis is then placed on the importance of well-designed studies to improve the interpretability of results and generalizability of the findings. This review finally suggests that sports researchers should comply with the available guidelines to improve the planning and conduct of future research thereby reducing the risk of harm to research participants. The authors suggest creating an oath to prevent malpractice, thereby improving the knowledge standards in sports research. This will also aid in deriving more meaningful implications for future research based on high-quality, ethically sound evidence.

Changing Oar Rotation Axis Position Increases Catch Angle During Indoor and In-Field Para-Rowing: A Randomized Crossover Trial Verified by a Repeated Measurement Trial.

A long rowing stroke length is crucial for adequate rowing performance. Therefore, the relocation of the oar from traditional "in front" (NORM) to "behind the rotation axis" (GATE) may increase (para) rowing performance. Thus, 15 able-bodied rowers (21.4 ± 3.6 years; 187 ± 8 cm; 85.4 ± 8.2 kg) completed indoor TANK rowing 2 min TimeTrials (2 min-TT) of GATE and NORM in a randomized order. Additionally, one elite Paralympic oarsman (37 years, 185 cm, 67 kg) performed a multiple single case in-field BOAT testing (24x2min-TT of GATE and NORM in a randomized order). GATE revealed significantly larger catch angles during TANK (+97.1 ± 120.4%; p = 0.001, SMD = 0.84) and BOAT (+11.9 ± 3.2%; p < 0.021; SMD = 2.69; Tau-U = 0.70) compared to NORM. While total stroke length, rowing power, and work per stroke increased in GATE during TANK (p < 0.010, SMD > 0.634), no such significant changes of these performance parameters between GATE and NORM were observed during BOAT (p > 0.021; SMD < 0.58; Tau-U < 0.29). Rowing economy-related parameters (power or speed per oxygen uptake) and boat speed also showed no significant differences between GATE und NORM during BOAT (p > 0.61; SMD < 0.31; Tau-U < 0.19). The shape of the force-angle curve (position of peak force and ratio between average and maximal force) remained unaffected from GATE during both TANK (p > 0.73, SMD < 0.1) and BOAT (p > 0.63; SMD < 0.60; Tau-U < 0.27). In conclusion, GATE shifted the entire rowing stroke towards the catch (+6.6 ± 1.8°) without notably affecting relevant performance parameters during BOAT. Particularly during crew rowing, the minimization of detrimental boat movements for perfect synchrony should be aimed for. Accordingly, the combined application of GATE and NORM (for different athletes in crew boats) may be beneficial for rowing synchronization.

The effectiveness of traditional vs. velocity-based strength training on explosive and maximal strength performance: A network meta-analysis.

This network meta-analysis aimed at evaluating the effectiveness of different velocity-based (VBT) and traditional 1RM-based resistance training (TRT) interventions on strength and power indices in healthy participants. The research was conducted until December 2021 using the online electronic databases PubMed, Web of Science, PsycNet, and SPORTDiscus for studies with the following inclusion criteria: 1) controlled VBT trials, 2) strength and/or jump and/or sprint parameters as outcomes (c), participants aged between 18 and 40 years, and 4) peer-reviewed and published in English. Standardized mean differences (SMD) using a random effects models were calculated. Fourteen studies with 311 healthy participants were selected and 3 networks (strength, jump, and sprint) were achieved. VBT, TRT, repetitions in reserve (RIR), low velocity loss (lowVL), and high velocity loss (highVL) were ranked for each network. Based on P-score rankings, lowVL (P-score ≥ 0.59; SMD ≥ 0.33) and highVL (P-score ≥ 0.50; SMD ≥ 0.12) revealed favorable effects on strength, jump, and sprint performance compared to VBT (P-score ≤ 0.47; SMD ≤0.01), TRT (P-score ≤0.46; SMD ≤ 0.00), and RIR (P-score ≤ 0.46; SMD ≤ 0.12). In conclusion, lowVL and highVL showed notable effects on strength, jump, and sprint performance. In particular for jump performance, lowVL induced favorable improvements compared to all other resistance training approaches.

Similar strength gains at lower perceived efforts via cluster set vs. traditional home-based online training: A 6 weeks randomized controlled trial.

Cluster Training (CT) has been shown to induce strength at lower perceived efforts compared to traditional training (TRT) with sets performed to repetition failure. These findings have not yet been extended to remote online training in middle-aged to older people. Thus the present study aimed at investigating whether a cluster set online training with bodyweight exercises is similar in its effectiveness a more demanding traditional strength training employed with a traditional set structure. A total of n = 21 participants (14 female, 55 ± 12 years, 76.4 ± 16.1 kg, 1.71 ± 0.10 m, 74 ± 72 min of activity/w) were randomly assigned to either a CT or volume-, load-, and work-to-rest-ratio-matched TRT. After an initial 6-week run-in-phase, all participants were engaged into an online live-instructed full-body workout twice a week (40 min each) for a period of 6 weeks. Rates of perceived efforts (RPE) were assessed for each session (session RPE; sRPE). Changes in maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) at leg press (LP) and abdominal press (AP) as well as one-minute-sit-to-stand and Y-Balance-Test (YBT) were compared between BASELINE and PRE (ΔRUN-IN) and between PRE and POST (ΔINTERVENTION). In LP, TRT showed greater improvements with large effect sizes in ΔINTERVENTION compared to ΔRUN-IN. In CT, greater improvements with moderate effects were found in ΔINTERVENTION compared to ΔRUN-IN. In AP, both CT and TRT showed larger improvements with large effect sizes in ΔINTERVENTION compared to ΔRUN-IN. In YBT, a significant and large main effect for time was found indicating larger improvements for ΔINTERVENTION compared to ΔRUN-IN. CT showed lower sRPE than TRT. Both CT and TRT led to similar adaptations in MVC and balance performance. However, the perceived effort of CT was rated lower than for TRT. Therefore, conducting resistance training with a cluster set structure seems to be a suitable approach for training programs in middle-aged and older people.

Validity and Reliability of a Commercial Force Sensor for the Measurement of Upper Body Strength in Sport Climbing.

Recreational and professional climbing is gaining popularity. Thus, valid and reliable infield strength monitoring and testing devices are required. This study aims at assessing the validity as well as within- and between-day reliability of two climbing-specific hanging positions for assessing the maximum force with a new force measurement device. Therefore, 25 experienced male (n = 16) and female (n = 9) climbers (age: 25.5 ± 4.2 years, height: 176.0 ± 9.9 cm, weight: 69.7 ± 14.5 kg, body composition: 11.8 ± 5.7% body fat, climbing level: 17.5 ± 3.9 International Rock Climbing Research Association scale) were randomly tested with climbing-specific hang board strength tests (one-handed rung pulling and one-handed bent arm lock-off at 90°). The Tindeq, a load cell-based sensor for assessing different force-related variables, was employed together with a force plate (Kistler Quattro Jump) during both conditions. Data analysis revealed excellent validity for assessment with Tindeq: The intra-class correlation coefficient (ICC) was 0.99 (both positions), while the standard error of the measurement (SEM), coefficient of variation (CV), and limits of agreement (LoA) showed low values. Within day reliability for the assessment with Tindeq was excellent: rung pulling showed an ICC of 0.90 and arm lock-off an ICC of 0.98; between-day reliability was excellent as well: rung pulling indicated an ICC of 0.95 and arm lock-off an ICC of 0.98. Other reliability indicators such as SEM, CV, and LoA were low. The Tindeq progressor can be applied for the cross-sectional and longitudinal climbing strength assessment as this device can detect training-induced changes reliably.