Application of Spectro-DPRA, KeratinoSens™ and h-CLAT to estimation of the skin sensitization potential of cosmetics ingredients.

Ethical issues in animal toxicity testing have led to the search for alternative methods to determine the skin sensitization potential of cosmetic products. The emergence of ethical testing issues has led to the development of many alternative methods that can reliably estimate skin sensitization potentials. However, a single alternative method may not be able to achieve high predictivity due to the complexity of the skin sensitization mechanism. Therefore, several prediction assays, including both in chemico and in vitro test methods, were investigated and integrated based on the skin sensitization adverse outcome pathway. In this study, we evaluated three different integrated approaches to predict a human skin sensitization hazard using data from in vitro assays (KeratinoSens™ and human cell line activation test [h-CLAT]), and a newly developed in chemico assay (spectrophotometric direct peptide reactivity assay [Spectro-DPRA]). When the results of the in chemico and in vitro assays were combined, the predictivity of human data increased compared with that of a single assay. The highest predictivity was obtained for the approach in which sensitization potential was determined by Spectro-DPRA followed by final determination using the result of KeratinoSens™ and h-CLAT assays (96.3% sensitivity, 87.1% specificity, 86.7% positive predictive value, 96.4% negative predictive value and 91.4% accuracy compared with human data). While further optimization is needed, we believe this integrated approach may provide useful predictive data when determining the human skin sensitization potential of chemicals.

Collapse of human scalp microbiome network in dandruff and seborrhoeic dermatitis.

We investigate the relationship between scalp microbiota and dandruff/seborrhoeic dermatitis (D/SD), an unpleasant scalp disorder common in human populations. Bacterial and fungal community analyses on scalp of 102 Korean were performed by next-generation sequencing. Overall scalp microbiome composition significantly differed between normal and disease groups, and especially co-occurrence network of dominant members was breakdown in disease groups. These findings will provide novel insights into shifts of microbial community relevant to D/SD.

Algorithm for environmental risk assessment of cosmetics to reduce their environmental impact.

Cosmetics, especially rinse-off personal care products (PCPs), such as shampoo, facial cleanser, and body wash, are composed of various chemicals and are one of the sources of chemicals released into aquatic ecosystems. Therefore, the cosmetic industry strives to reduce the impact of their products on the aquatic environment. In this study, we proposed an algorithm based on persistence, bioaccumulation potential, and toxicity (PBT) for the environmental risk assessment of cosmetics. PBT features are generally used in the evaluation of the environmental impact of chemicals. Based on the PBT assessment, it is possible to predict the short- and long-term effects of chemicals on the environment. Our algorithm derives substance and product scores from PBT features, allowing for the risk assessment of each ingredient in the product. Furthermore, we proposed a criterion for the environmental impact grade through which each component can be classified. We intend to use this grade and factors determined through the algorithm to manufacture products with low environmental impact.

Alstonia scholaris R. Br. Significantly Inhibits Retinoid-Induced Skin Irritation In Vitro and In Vivo.

Topical retinoids inhibit matrix metalloproteinases and accelerate collagen synthesis, thereby triggering antiaging effects in the skin. However, topical retinoids can cause severe skin reactions, including scaling, erythema, papules, and inflammation. The present study demonstrates that the ethanolic bark extract of Alstonia scholaris R. Br. can significantly inhibit all-trans retinoic acid-induced inflammation in human HaCat keratinocyte cells. Furthermore, two representative retinoid-induced proinflammatory cytokines, monocyte chemoattractant protein-1 and interleukin-8, were significantly suppressed by A. scholaris extract (by 82.1% and 26.3% at 100 ppm, and dose-dependently across the tested concentrations) in vitro. In a cumulative irritation patch test, A. scholaris extract decreased retinol-induced skin irritation, while strengthening the ability of retinoids to inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-1 expression, which is strongly associated with aging effects. These results suggest that A. scholaris is a promising compound that may increase the antiaging function of retinoids while reducing their ability to cause skin irritation.

Tear Neuromediators in Subjects with and without Dry Eye According to Ocular Sensitivity.

To investigate differences of tear neuromediators between subjects with and without dry eye (DE) depending on the ocular sensitivity. Thirty-one subjects with DE and 29 subjects without DE were recruited in this study. The eyes were stimulated by exposure to an irritating product applied to the periocular region. Both DE and non-DE subjects were divided into the high sensitivity and low sensitivity groups based on the degree of ocular sensitivity to ocular irritation. Baseline tear film break-up time (TBUT) and corneal staining score were examined, and tear samples were collected. The concentrations of the tear neuromediators, including nerve growth factor (NGF), serotonin, calcitonin gene-related peptide (CGRP), substance P, neuropeptide Y, and vasoactive intestinal peptide were measured using the enzyme-linked immune sorbent assay. The baseline neuromediator concentrations were compared between subjects with and without DE based on ocular sensitivity. In both DE and non-DE subjects, baseline TBUT was significantly lower in the high sensitivity group than in the low sensitivity group. In the high sensitivity group, baseline tear NGF levels were higher in subjects with DE than in those without DE. In the low sensitivity group, baseline levels of tear CGRP were lower in subjects with DE than in those without DE. Tear neuromediators associated with DE had differences in their concentrations depending on ocular sensitivity. In patients with DE, tear NGF levels increased with high ocular sensitivity to ocular irritation, whereas tear CGRP levels decreased with low ocular sensitivity.

Pre-validation study of spectrophotometric direct peptide reactivity assay (Spectro-DPRA) as a modified in chemico skin sensitization test method.

Skin sensitization is induced when certain chemicals bind to skin proteins. Direct peptide reactivity assay (DPRA) has been adopted by the OECD as an alternative method to evaluate skin sensitization by assessing a substance's reaction to two model peptides. A modified spectrophotometric method, Spectro-DPRA, can evaluate skin sensitization, in a high throughput fashion, to obviate some limitations of DPRA. Pre-validation studies for Spectro-DPRA were conducted to determine transferability and proficiency, within- and between-laboratory reproducibility, and predictive ability based on GLP principles at three laboratories (AP, KTR, and KCL). All laboratories confirmed high (> 90%) concordance for evaluating the sensitivity induced by ten chemical substances. The concordance among the three tests performed by each laboratory was 90% for AP, 100% for KTR, and 100% for KCL. The mean accuracy of the laboratories was 93.3% [compared to the standard operating procedure (SOP)]. The reproducibility among the three laboratories was as high as 86.7%; the accuracy was 86.7% for AP, 100% for KTR, and 86.7% for KCL (compared to the SOP). An additional 54 substances were assessed in 3 separate labs to verify the prediction rate. Based on the result, 29 out of 33 substances were classified as sensitizers, and 19 out of 21 identified as non-sensitizers; the corresponding sensitivity, specificity, and accuracy values were 87.9%, 90.5%, and 88.9%, respectively. These findings indicate that the Spectro-DPRA can address the molecular initiating event with improved predictability and reproducibility, while saving time and cost compared to DPRA or ADRA.

Hybrid skin chips for toxicological evaluation of chemical drugs and cosmetic compounds.

Development of drugs and cosmetics for topical application require safety tests in skin models. However, current skin models, such as skin cell sheets and artificial tissue-engineered skin, do not allow sophisticated toxicological evaluations (e.g., sensory irritation, hepatotoxicity). Animal models are prohibited worldwide for testing cosmetics. Therefore, reliable human skin models that recapitulate physiological events in skin tissue need to be established under in vitro settings. In this study, hybrid human skin models that enable delicate toxicological evaluations of drugs and cosmetic compounds are demonstrated. To recapitulate skin cornification, keratinocytes in the top layer of a vertical microfluidic chip were cultured at the air-liquid interface. For the skin-nerve hybrid model, differentiated neural stem cells in 3D collagen were positioned adjacent to and right below the skin layer. This model enables real-time quantitative skin sensitization analysis following chemical treatments by detecting alterations in neuronal activity in combination with a calcium imaging technique. For the skin-liver model, hepatic cells derived from pluripotent stem cells were cultured in 3D collagen distant from the skin layer. Potential hepatotoxicity of cutaneously applied chemicals in this model can be evaluated by quantification of glutathione and reactive oxygen species. Our study suggests that 3D hybrid skin chips would provide useful human skin models in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

Aged related human skin microbiome and mycobiome in Korean women.

We examined differences in the skin microbiome of two separate age groups to find key microbial and skin physiological indicators associated with aging. We recruited healthy Korean women 19-28 years old (Y-group) and 60-63 years old (O-group) and evaluated their cheek and forehead skin microbiome, including bacteria and fungi. The microbiome was significantly different by age group, with bacterial and fungal communities displaying higher alpha-diversity in the O-group than in the Y-group. We identified amplicon sequence variants affiliated with Cutibacterium and Lactobacillus and fungi Malassezia restricta as microbial biomarkers showing significant differences between the Y and O-group. There are more microbial communities and metabolic processes related to skin health in the Y-group than in the O-group, and there are more microbial interactions to increase the stability of the network structure of the skin. Skin physical metadata, including transepidermal water loss and sebum content, differed by two age groups. The crucial skin microbes, skin physical parameters, and microbial network found through this research will be useful key indicators in associating skin aging and skin microbiome research.

An improved method for measurement of change in skin roughness caused by cleansing products under mild application conditions.

BACKGROUND: The aim of this study was to develop a method for the evaluation of subtle change in skin roughness caused by cleansing products under mild application conditions using a non-invasive three-dimensional (3D) analysis system. METHODS: A double-blind comparative study of the modified soap chamber test was performed using two soap bars and a syndet bar. Skin changes were evaluated by visual scoring [mean cumulative irritation index (MCII)] and by bioengineering measurements [transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin capacitance, and skin surface roughness]. RESULTS: MCII of the syndet bar was statistically higher than that of one soap bar, and TEWL increase after application of the syndet bar was statistically higher than that of both soap bars. Skin capacitance decreased significantly only after application of the syndet bar. The change in the average roughness of the skin surface was significantly greater after the application of the syndet bar than with classic soap bars. CONCLUSION: A simple, fast, and objective evaluation of skin surface topography was performed using a modified soap chamber test and a non-invasive 3D analysis system. The results suggest that measurement of skin roughness using a non-invasive 3D analysis system might be a good method for the evaluation of a subtle change caused by cleansing products under mild application conditions.

Inferences in microbial structural signatures of acne microbiome and mycobiome.

Acne vulgaris, commonly known as acne, is the most common skin disorder and a multifactorial disease of the sebaceous gland. Although the pathophysiology of acne is still unclear, bacterial and fungal factors are known to be involved in. This study aimed to investigate whether the microbiomes and mycobiomes of acne patients are distinct from those of healthy subjects and to identify the structural signatures of microbiomes related to acne vulgaris. A total of 33 Korean female subjects were recruited (Acne group, n = 17; Healthy group, n = 16), and microbiome samples were collected swabbing the forehead and right cheek. To characterize the fungal and bacterial communities, 16S rRNA V4-V5 and ITS1 region, respectively, were sequenced and analysed using Qiime2. There were no significant differences in alpha and beta diversities of microbiomes between the Acne and Healthy groups. In comparison with the ratio of Cutibacterium to Staphylococcus, the acne patients had higher abundance of Staphylococcus compared to Cutibacterium than the healthy individuals. In network analysis with the dominant microorganism amplicon sequence variants (ASV) (Cutibacterium, Staphylococcus, Malassezia globosa, and Malassezia restricta) Cutibacterium acnes was identified to have hostile interactions with Staphylococcus and Malassezia globosa. Accordingly, this results suggest an insight into the differences in the skin microbiome and mycobiome between acne patients and healthy controls and provide possible microorganism candidates that modulate the microbiomes associated to acne vulgaris.

Comparative study of the ocular irritation potential of various alkyl polyglucoside surfactants.

In the present work, we assessed the relationship between alkyl carbon chain length and ocular irritation potentials using the hen's egg test-chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) and bovine corneal opacity and permeability (BCOP) assays using 5 commercial alkyl polyglucoside surfactants with different compositions of alkyl chain lengths (C(6)-C(16)). With HET-CAM, there was a good correlation between the proportion of C(10) alkyl polyglucoside and the eye irritation potential Q score (r(2) = 0.912, p = .011). There were no significant differences between the proportion of C(10) alkyl polyglucoside and corneal opacity in BCOP assays; however, there was a relatively high positive correlation between the proportion of C(10) alkyl carbon chain lengths and corneal permeability (r(2) = 0.736, p = .063).

Structures of the Skin Microbiome and Mycobiome Depending on Skin Sensitivity.

Sensitive skin (SS) syndrome is a globally widespread, self-diagnosed discomfort characterized by subjective complaints. Although the skin microbiome is considered important in skin health, the relationship between the skin microbiome and skin sensitivity is still unknown. Here, we aimed to (i) investigate whether the microbiome and mycobiome of SS are distinct from those of non-sensitive skin (NS), and (ii) define the characteristics of the skin microbiome associated with skin sensitivity. A total of 42 Korean women subjects were recruited (SS, n = 23; NS, n = 19) and the microbiome/mycobiome of their right facial cheeks were analyzed. We identified the differential microbiome and mycobiome structures between SS and NS. The mycobiome of SS was more phylogenetically diverse than that of NS. Lactobacillus and Mucor racemosus were more abundant on SS than NS, whereas Malassezia restricta was less abundant. Interestingly, both skin microbiome and mycobiome varied according to the perceived skin sensitivities of the subjects. This study suggests that the skin microbiome and mycobiome are associated with skin sensitivity. Accordingly, it lays the foundation for developing microbiome-based cosmetics or remedies for individuals suffering from SS syndrome.

Clinical and Microbiological Efficacy of Pyrophosphate Containing Toothpaste: A Double-Blinded Placebo-Controlled Randomized Clinical Trial.

(1) Background: Dental calculus works as a niche wherein pathogenic bacteria proliferate in the oral cavity. Previous studies revealed the anticalculus activity of pyrophosphates, however there was no clinical study that evaluated microbiome changes associated with calculus inhibition. Therefore, the aim of this randomized clinical trial was to evaluate the calculus inhibition of pyrophosphate-containing toothpaste and its effect on oral microbiome changes. (2) Methods: Eighty subjects with a calculus index ≥2 on the lingual of the mandibular anterior tooth were randomly allocated to the test group that pyrophosphate-containing toothpaste was given to or the placebo control group. Full mouth debridement and standardized tooth brushing instruction were given before the allocation. Plaque index, gingival index, calculus index, probing depth, and bleeding on probing were measured at the baseline, and at 4, 8 and 12 weeks. Genomic DNA was extracted from the plaque samples collected at the baseline and at 12 weeks, and 16S ribosomal RNA gene amplicon sequencing was applied for microbiome analysis. (3) Results: None of the clinical parameters showed significant differences by visits or groups, except the plaque index of the test group, which reduced significantly between 4 and 12 weeks. A significant difference of microbiome between the baseline and 12 weeks was observed in the test group. Between baseline and 12 weeks, the proportion of Spirochetes decreased in the control group, and the proportions of Proteobacteria, Fusobacteria and Spirochetes in the phylum level and the proportions of Haemophilus, Fusobacterium and Capnocytophaga in the genus level decreased in the test group. In the test group, as plaque index decreased, Streptococcus increased, and Fusobacterium and Haemophilus parainfluenza decreased. (4) Conclusion: The use of pyrophosphate-containing toothpaste effectively inhibited the dysbiosis of the oral microbiome and the proliferation of pathogenic species in periodontal disease. Clinically, plaque formation in the pyrophosphate-containing toothpaste group was effectively decreased, however there was no significant change in calculus deposition.

Two tiered approaches combining alternative test methods and minimizing the use of reconstructed human cornea-like epithelium tests for the evaluation of eye irritation potency of test chemicals.

In order to overcome the limitations of single in vitro eye irritation tests, Integrated Approaches to Testing Assessment strategies have been suggested for evaluating eye irritation. This study developed two tiered approaches combining alternative test methods. They were designed in consideration of the solubility property of test chemicals and to use the RhCE tests at final steps. The tiered approach A is composed of the STE, BCOP, HET-CAM or RhCE tests, whereas the tiered approach B is designed to perform simultaneously two in vitro test methods at the first stage and the RhCE test at the final stage. The predictive capacity of the two tiered approaches was estimated using 47 chemicals. The accuracy, sensitivity, and specificity value of the tiered approach A were 95.7% (45/47), 100% (34/34), and 84.6% (11/13), respectively, whereas those of the tiered approach B were 95.7% (45/47), 97.1% (33/34), and 92.3% (12/13), respectively. The approach A and B were considered to be available methods for distinguishing test chemicals of Category 1 (all 73.3%) and No Category (84.6% and 92.3%), respectively. Especially, the approach B was considered as an efficient method as the Bottom-Up approach, because it predicted correctly test chemicals classified as No Category.

Development of a novel method for quantitative evaluation of sensory skin irritation inhibitors.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: Sensory skin irritation is regarded as one of the most serious side effects of cosmetic use. Thus, it is desirable to develop good inhibitors of sensory skin irritation. However, it is difficult to quantify the effect of sensory skin irritation inhibitors. METHODS: We investigated the possibility of using an electrical current perception threshold (CPT) measurement for the quantitative evaluation of these inhibitors. We divided study populations into stinger and non-stinger groups based on their response to 5% lactic acid and assessed CPT values at 2000, 250, and 5 Hz on the cheek. Stingers showed significantly lower CPT values than non-stingers did at 250 and 5 Hz. We also measured CPT values before and after the application of nine materials with inhibitory effects on sensory skin irritation. To investigate the relationship between the change in CPT values and the effect of each material in the clinical stinging test, we conducted the stinging test with the test materials in a 5% lactic acid solution and with a 5% lactic acid solution (positive control). RESULTS: There was a positive correlation between the change in CPT values and the inhibitory effect that each material had on the stinging test. CONCLUSION: The change in CPT values can be used for the quantitative evaluation of sensory skin irritation inhibitors .

Expression of surface markers on the human monocytic leukaemia cell line, THP-1, as indicators for the sensitizing potential of chemicals.

BACKGROUND: Evaluation of skin sensitization potential is an important part of the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients and topical drugs. Recently, evaluation of changes in surface marker expression induced in dendritic cells (DC) or DC surrogate cell lines following exposure to chemicals represents one approach for in vitro test methods. OBJECTIVE: The study aimed to test the change of expression patterns of surface markers on THP-1 cells by chemicals as a predictive in vitro method for contact sensitization. METHODS: We investigated the expression of CD54, CD86, CD83, CD80, and CD40 after a 1-day exposure to sensitizers (1-chloro-2,4-dinitrobenzene; 2,4-dinitrofluorobenzene; benzocaine; 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one; hexyl cinnamic aldehyde; eugenol; nickel sulfate hexahydrate; potassium dichromate; cobalt sulfate; 2-mercaptobenzothiazole; and ammonium tetrachloroplatinate) and non-sensitizers (sodium lauryl sulfate, benzalkonium chloride, lactic acid, salicylic acid, isopropanol, and dimethyl sulphoxide). The test concentrations were 0.1x, 0.5x, and 1x of the 50% inhibitory concentration, and the relative fluorescence intensity was used as an expression indicator. RESULT AND CONCLUSION: By evaluating the expression patterns of CD54, CD86, and CD40, we could classify the chemicals as sensitizers or non-sensitizers, but CD80 and CD83 showed non-specific patterns of expression. These data suggest that the THP-1 cells are good model for screening contact sensitizers and CD40 could be a useful marker complementary to CD54 and CD86.

High-throughput screening (HTS)-based spectrophotometric direct peptide reactivity assay (Spectro-DPRA) to predict human skin sensitization potential.

Some cosmetic ingredients can act as a chemical hapten to induce an immune response; therefore, evaluating the sensitizing potential of cosmetic ingredients is essential. We previously developed a novel in chemico direct peptide reactivity assay involving a spectrophotometric evaluation (Spectro-DPRA) for animal skin sensitization tests (local lymph node assay; LLNA). Based on previous research, we expanded the test materials to confirm the effectiveness of the Spectro-DPRA method for predicting the animal skin sensitization potential, and further determined the feasibility of the method for estimating the human skin sensitization potential. Spectro-DPRA showed 83.1% or 89.1% accuracy compared to a conventional LLNA or prediction based on human data, respectively, with a combination model using both a cysteine peptide and lysine peptide cut-off. To identify the effect of the lipophilicity of a chemical on predicting the skin sensitization potential, we applied our prediction model to chemicals with a Log Pow range of -1 to 4. Overall predictability was increased, and the accuracy compared to the LLNA and human data was 91.5% and 94.9%, respectively, in the combination cut-off prediction model. In conclusion, Spectro-DPRA serves as an easy, rapid, and high-throughput in chemico screening method with high accuracy to predict the human skin sensitization potential of chemicals.

Study on Consumer Exposure to Sun Spray and Sun Cream in South Korea.

When conducting risk assessments of cosmetic ingredients, it is important that reliable exposure information is obtained for cosmetic products. As cosmetics are becoming more diverse, continuous effort must be made to obtain exposure data that reflect their growth and usage trends. The usage pattern of cosmetics, such as the application area and amount used, may differ by product type and also by country. We conducted a survey to compare the amount of sun spray and sun cream used in a usage environment in South Korea. The study was conducted on Haeundae Beach, one of the most popular beaches in South Korea. A total of 1,255 beachgoers participated in this study; 604 and 651 participants used the sun spray and sun cream, respectively, while sunbathing and enjoying water activities on the beach for one day. Exposure was analyzed following a probabilistic method. On comparing all subjects, it was found that the group that used sun spray (mean: 44.52 g/day) used significantly more product (p = 0.000) than those who used sun cream (mean: 20.51 g/day). By analyzing the daily exposure of sun spray and sun cream per unit body weight according to age and gender, the exposure amount of sun spray and sun cream was found to be highest among 2~9 year-old girls (mean for sun spray: 2.51 g/kg/day, p95: 5.50 g/kg/day, mean for sun cream: 0.79 g/kg/day, p95: 1.79 g/kg/day). The amount of sun spray used is approximately twice that of sun cream. Among both the sun spray and sun cream groups, the exposure amount per unit body weight was highest in girls younger than 10. These factors should be considered when conducting risk assessments of sun spray and sun cream.

Antifungal Mechanism of Action of Lauryl Betaine Against Skin-Associated Fungus Malassezia restricta.

Betaine derivatives are considered major ingredients of shampoos and are commonly used as antistatic and viscosity-increasing agents. Several studies have also suggested that betaine derivatives can be used as antimicrobial agents. However, the antifungal activity and mechanism of action of betaine derivatives have not yet been fully understood. In this study, we investigated the antifungal activity of six betaine derivatives against Malassezia restricta, which is the most frequently isolated fungus from the human skin and is implicated in the development of dandruff. We found that, among the six betaine derivatives, lauryl betaine showed the most potent antifungal activity. The mechanism of action of lauryl betaine was studied mainly using another phylogenetically close model fungal organism, Cryptococcus neoformans, because of a lack of available genetic manipulation and functional genomics tools for M. restricta. Our genome-wide reverse genetic screening method using the C. neoformans gene deletion mutant library showed that the mutants with mutations in genes for cell membrane synthesis and integrity, particularly ergosterol synthesis, are highly sensitive to lauryl betaine. Furthermore, transcriptome changes in both C. neoformans and M. restricta cells grown in the presence of lauryl betaine were analyzed and the results indicated that the compound mainly affected cell membrane synthesis, particularly ergosterol synthesis. Overall, our data demonstrated that lauryl betaine influences ergosterol synthesis in C. neoformans and that the compound exerts a similar mechanism of action on M. restricta.

Segregation of age-related skin microbiome characteristics by functionality.

Although physiological changes are the most evident indicators of skin aging by alteration of the skin's structure and function, we question whether skin aging is also affected by the structure and assembly process of the skin microbiome. We analysed the skin microbiomes of 73 healthy Chinese women in two age groups (25-35 years old and 56-63 years old) using 16S rRNA gene amplicon sequencing; the overall microbiome structure was significantly different between the two age groups. An analysis using ecological theory to evaluate the process of microbial community assembly processes revealed that the microbiomes of the older group were formed under a greater influence of the niche-based process, with the network of microbes being more collapsed than that of the younger group. Inferred metagenomic functional pathways associated with replication and repair were relatively more predominant in the younger group whereas, among the various metabolism-related pathways, those associated with biodegradation were more predominant in the older group. Interestingly, we found two segregated sub-typing patterns in the younger group which were also observed in the skin microbiomes of young Chinese women living in four other cities in China. The results of our study highlights candidate microbes and functional pathways that are important for future research into preventing skin aging and which could lead to a comprehensive understanding of age-related skin microbiome characteristics.