Optimization of cosmetic preservation: water activity reduction.

OBJECTIVE: Preservation of cosmetics is a prerequisite for industrialization, and among the proposed solutions, self-preserved cosmetics are of great interest. One key influencing parameter in self-preservation is water activity; its reduction can help to fight against microbial growth in cosmetic products. This work presents a study on the influence of humectants on water activity and its consequence on the preservation of cosmetic formulations. METHODS: First, water-humectants mixtures were considered. The influence of glycol and glycerin content, glycol chemical structure, glycerin purity and formulation process on the water activity of the binary mixture was studied. Molecular modelling was performed for a better understanding of the impact of glycol chemistry. Then, the results were applied to five different cosmetic formulations to get optimized products. Challenge test on five strains was carried out in that sense. RESULTS: We showed that the higher the humectants concentration, the lower the water activity. Glycol chemical structure also influenced water activity: propan-1,2-diol was more efficient than propan-1,3-diol, certainly because of a better stabilization in water of propan-1,2-diol as shown by DFT calculation. A drop by drop introduction of glycol in water favoured aw reduction. The best water activity loss was 6.6% and was reached on the cream formulation whose preservation was improved as evidenced by challenge test. CONCLUSION: Fabrication process as well as humectants concentration were shown to influence water activity. The hydroxyl group positions as well as the presence of an alkyl group on the glycol carbon chain impacted water binding as suggested by DFT calculation. Reducing aw improved the preservation of a cosmetic cream, inhibiting or slowing down the growth of bacteria and fungi.

On the use of X-ray absorption spectroscopy to elucidate the structure of lutetium adenosine mono- and triphosphate complexes.

Although the physiological impact of the actinide elements as nuclear toxicants has been widely investigated for half a century, a description of their interactions with biological molecules remains limited. It is however of primary importance to better assess the determinants of actinide speciation in cells and more generally in living organisms to unravel the molecular processes underlying actinide transport and deposition in tissues. The biological pathways of this family of elements in case of accidental contamination or chronic natural exposure (in the case of uranium rich soils for instance) are therefore a crucial issue of public health and of societal impact. Because of the high chemical affinity of those actinide elements for phosphate groups and the ubiquity of such chemical functions in biochemistry, phosphate derivatives are considered as probable targets of these cations. Among them, nucleotides and in particular adenosine mono- (AMP) and triphosphate (ATP) nucleotides occur in more chemical reactions than any other compounds on the earth's surface, except water, and are therefore critical target molecules. In the present study, we are interested in trans-plutonium actinide elements, in particular americium and curium that are more rarely considered in environmental and bioaccumulation studies than early actinides like uranium, neptunium and plutonium. A first step in this strategy is to work with chemical analogues like lanthanides that are not radioactive and therefore allow extended physical chemical characterization to be conducted that are difficult to perform with radioactive materials. We describe herein the interaction of lutetium(III) with adenosine AMP and ATP. With AMP and ATP, insoluble amorphous compounds have been obtained with molar ratios of 1:2 and 1:1, respectively. With an excess of ATP, with 1:2 molar ratio, a soluble complex has been obtained. A combination of spectroscopic techniques (IR, NMR, ESI-MS, EXAFS) together with quantum chemical calculations has been implemented in order to assess the lutetium coordination arrangement for the two nucleotides. In all the complexes described in the article, the lutetium cation is coordinated by the phosphate groups of the nucleotide plus additional putative water molecules with various tridimensional arrangements. With AMP 1:2 and ATP 1:1 solid-state compounds, polynuclear complexes are assumed to be obtained. In contrast, with ATP 1:2 soluble compound, the Lu coordination sphere is saturated by two ATP ligands, and this favors the formation of a mononuclear complex. In order to further interpret the EXAFS data obtained at the Lu LIII edge, model structures have been calculated for the 1:1 and 1:2 ATP complexes. They are discussed and compared to the EXAFS best fit metrical parameters.

Atomistic model of DNA: phonons and base-pair opening.

A fully atomistic model of B-DNA using the CHARMM (chemistry at Harvard molecular mechanics) force field is presented. Molecular dynamics simulations were used to prepare an equilibrium structure. The Hessian of interatomic forces obtained from CHARMM for the equilibrium structure was used as input to a large scale phonon calculation. The calculated dispersion relations at low frequency are compared with recently published experimental data, which shows the model to have good accuracy for the low frequency, vibrational modes of DNA. These are discussed in the context of base-pair opening. In addition to the widely reported modes at, or below, approximately 12.5 meV, a continuous band of modes with strong base-pair opening character is found up to 40 meV, which coincides with the typical denaturation temperature of DNA.

Force-induced structural transitions in cross-linked DNA films.

We report on the preparation and characterization of wet-spun films of sodium DNA in which intermolecular cross-links were introduced following formaldehyde treatment. Raman scattering shows that the DNA in moderately cross-linked films is mainly in the B conformation. Stretching experiments show a transition from plastic to elastomeric behavior with increasing exposure to the cross-linking agent. Elastomeric DNA films are strongly disordered. X-ray diffraction shows that stretching of moderately cross-linked films under controlled high humidity conditions results in increased molecular orientation as well as the appearance of meridional reflections at 7.4-7.8 and 8.2 angstroms. These reflections are not observed for any of the classical conformations associated with mixed sequence DNA, and may arise from extended base-pair stacking in a stretched DNA structure.

Phonon driven proton transfer in crystals with short strong hydrogen bonds.

Recent work on understanding why protons migrate with increasing temperature in short, strong hydrogen bonds is extended here to three more organic, crystalline systems. Inelastic neutron scattering and density functional theory based simulations are used to investigate structure, vibrations, and dynamics of these systems as functions of temperature. The mechanism determined in a previous work on urea phosphoric acid of low frequency vibrations stabilizing average crystal structures, in which the potential energy well of the hydrogen bond has its minimum shifted towards the center of the bond, is found to be valid here. The new feature of the N-H...O hydrogen bonds studied in this work is that the proton is transferred from the donor atom to the acceptor atom. Molecular dynamics simulations show that in an intermediate temperature regime, in which the proton is not completely transferred, the proton is bistable, jumping from one side of the hydrogen bond to the other. In the case of 3,5-pyridine dicarboxylic acid, which has been studied in most detail, specific phonons are identified, which influence the potential energy surface of the proton in the short, strong hydrogen bond.

Neutron vibrational spectroscopy gives new insights into the structure of poly(p-phenylene terephthalamide).

The vibrational spectra of benzanilide and poly(p-phenylene terephthalamide) have been measured using inelastic neutron scattering. These compounds have similar hydrogen-bond networks, which, for poly(p-phenylene terephthalamide), lead to two-dimensional hydrogen-bonded sheets in the crystal. Experimental spectra are compared with solid-state, quantum chemical calculations based on density functional theory (DFT). Such "parameter-free" calculations allow the structure-dynamics relation in this type of compound to be quantified, which is demonstrated here for benzanilide. In the case of poly(p-phenylene terephthalamide), vibrational spectroscopy and DFT calculations help resolve long-standing questions about the packing of hydrogen-bonded sheets in the solid state.