Development and Evaluation of Lipid Nanoparticles Containing Natural Botanical Oil for Sun Protection: Characterization and in vitro and in vivo Human Skin Permeation and Toxicity.

The use of sunscreen products is widely promoted by schools, government agencies, and health-related organizations to minimize sunburn and skin damage. In this study, we developed stable solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) containing the chemical UV filter octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC). In parallel, we produced similar stable SLNs in which 20% of the OMC content was replaced by the botanical urucum oil. When these SLNs were applied to the skin of human volunteers, no changes in fluorescence lifetimes or redox ratios of the endogenous skin fluorophores were seen, suggesting that the formulations did not induce toxic responses in the skin. Ex vivo (skin diffusion) tests showed no significant penetration. In vitro studies showed that when 20% of the OMC was replaced by urucum oil, there was no reduction in skin protection factor (SPF), suggesting that a decrease in the amount of chemical filter may be a viable alternative for an effective sunscreen, in combination with an antioxidant-rich vegetable oil, such as urucum. There is a strong trend towards increasing safety of sun protection products through reduction in the use of chemical UV filters. This work supports this approach by producing formulations with lower concentrations of OMC, while maintaining the SPF. Further investigations of SPF in vivo are needed to assess the suitability of these formulations for human use.

Quality by design (QbD), Process Analytical Technology (PAT), and design of experiment applied to the development of multifunctional sunscreens.

Multifunctional formulations are of great importance to ensure better skin protection from harm caused by ultraviolet radiation (UV). Despite the advantages of Quality by Design and Process Analytical Technology approaches to the development and optimization of new products, we found in the literature only a few studies concerning their applications in cosmetic product industry. Thus, in this research work, we applied the QbD and PAT approaches to the development of multifunctional sunscreens containing bemotrizinol, ethylhexyl triazone, and ferulic acid. In addition, UV transmittance method was applied to assess qualitative and quantitative critical quality attributes of sunscreens using chemometrics analyses. Linear discriminant analysis allowed classifying unknown formulations, which is useful for investigation of counterfeit and adulteration. Simultaneous quantification of ethylhexyl triazone, bemotrizinol, and ferulic acid presented at the formulations was performed using PLS regression. This design allowed us to verify the compounds in isolation and in combination and to prove that the antioxidant action of ferulic acid as well as the sunscreen actions, since the presence of this component increased 90% of antioxidant activity in vitro.

Development of ciclopirox olamine topical formulations: evaluation of drug release, penetration and cutaneous retention.

With the aim of reducing system absorption and consequently, the side effects, and simultaneously select a penetration enhancing, three topical formulations with 0.5% ciclopirox olamine (CO) and 15% of propylene glycol (PG), ethoxydiglycol or oleic acid were developed and evaluated regarding the skin penetration and cutaneous retention of the drug using Franz diffusion cells. Release experiments were performed through synthetic membrane while dermatomed pig ear skin was used to evaluate CO skin penetration and skin retention. Retention studies were carried out applying tape stripping method and dosing CO in stratum corneum and in epidermis and dermis. A HPLC method was validated for quantifying CO. All formulations tested with synthetic membrane presented no retention of the drug. Permeation data suggested that there was no systemic absorption of ciclopirox olamine from the studied formulations, even when the skin penetration enhancers were applied. Higher concentrations of the drug were found in the stratum corneum (SC) and also in epidermis and dermis, for all of the developed formulations. The addition of enhancers improved the penetration and cutaneous retention of CO, and propylene glycol promoted higher concentrations in epidermis and dermis, probably because its cumulative effect on the skin and by an efficient solvent power.

Optimization of primaquine diphosphate tablet formulation for controlled drug release using the mixture experimental design.

A tablet formulation based on hydrophilic matrix with a controlled drug release was developed, and the effect of polymer concentrations on the release of primaquine diphosphate was evaluated. To achieve this purpose, a 20-run, four-factor with multiple constraints on the proportions of the components was employed to obtain tablet compositions. Drug release was determined by an in vitro dissolution study in phosphate buffer solution at pH 6.8. The polynomial fitted functions described the behavior of the mixture on simplex coordinate systems to study the effects of each factor (polymer) on tablet characteristics. Based on the response surface methodology, a tablet composition was optimized with the purpose of obtaining a primaquine diphosphate release closer to a zero order kinetic. This formulation released 85.22% of the drug for 8 h and its kinetic was studied regarding to Korsmeyer-Peppas model, (Adj-R(2) = 0.99295) which has confirmed that both diffusion and erosion were related to the mechanism of the drug release. The data from the optimized formulation were very close to the predictions from statistical analysis, demonstrating that mixture experimental design could be used to optimize primaquine diphosphate dissolution from hidroxypropylmethyl cellulose and polyethylene glycol matrix tablets.

Heat shock proteins (HSP): dermatological implications and perspectives.

In recent years, several studies have demonstrated the protective effect of Heat Shock Proteins (HSP) on different organs and tissues under stressful conditions. However, most research explores the performance of those molecular chaperones during immune responses or pathological conditions like cancer, whereas the number of studies related to the performance of HSPs in the skin during diverse natural or physiopathological conditions is very low. Therefore, the aim of this article was to summarize the main concepts concerning the expression and performance of HSPs, from analysis of current medicine and cosmetics publications, as well as exploring the importance of these proteins in the dermatological area in physiological events such as cutaneous aging, skin cancer and wound healing and to present final considerations related to biotechnology performance in this area.

Rubus rosaefolius extract as a natural preservative candidate in topical formulations.

Even though the synthetic preservatives may offer a high antimicrobial efficacy, they are commonly related to adverse reactions and regarded as having potentially harmful effects caused by chronic consumption. The development of natural preservatives provides a way of reducing the amount of synthetic preservatives normally used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. In addition, these agents have less toxic effects and represent a possible natural and safer alternative of the preservatives. The purpose of this research was to evaluate the Rubus rosaefolius Smith extract efficiency as a natural preservative in base formulations. Of the extract, 0.2% (w/w) was assayed for its effectiveness of antimicrobial protection in two different base formulations (emulsion and gel). The microbial challenge test was performed following the standard procedures proposed by The United States Pharmacopoeia 33nd, European Pharmacopoeia 6th, Japanese Pharmacopoeia 15th, and the Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association using standardized microorganisms. The results demonstrated that R. rosaefolius extract at the studied concentration reduced the bacterial inocula, satisfying the criterion in all formulations, even though it was not able to present an effective preservative behavior against fungi. Thus, the investigation of new natural substances with preservative properties that could be applied in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products is relevant due to the possibility of substituting or decreasing the concentration of synthetic preservatives, providing a way for the development of safer formulas for the use of consumers.

The application of pharmaceutical quality by design concepts to evaluate the antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of a preservative system including desferrioxamine.

BACKGROUND: The purpose of the present study was to investigate the antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of a conventional preservative system containing desferrioxamine mesylate (DFO) and optimize the composition of the system through mathematical models. METHODS: Different combinations of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), sodium metabisulfite (SM), DFO and methylparaben (MP) were prepared using factorial design of experiments. The systems were added to ascorbic acid (AA) solution and the AA content over time, at room temperature and at 40 °C was determined by volumetric assay. The systems were also evaluated for antioxidant activity by a fluorescence-based assay. Antimicrobial activity was assessed by microdilution technique and photometric detection against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans and Aspergillus brasiliensis. A multi-criteria decision approach was adopted to optimize all responses by desirability functions. RESULTS: DFO did not extend the stability of AA over time, but displayed a better ability than EDTA to block the pro-oxidant activity of iron. DFO had a positive interaction with MP in microbial growth inhibition. The mathematical models showed adequate capacity to predict the responses. Statistical optimization aiming to meet the quality specifications of the ascorbic acid solution indicated that the presence of DFO in the composition allows to decrease the concentrations of EDTA, SM and MP. CONCLUSION: DFO was much more effective than EDTA in preventing iron-catalyzed oxidation. In addition, DFO improved the inhibitory response of most microorganisms tested. The Quality by Design concepts aided in predicting an optimized preservative system with reduced levels of conventional antioxidants and preservatives, suggesting DFO as a candidate for multifunctional excipient.

Prospective ultramorphological characterization of human hair by optical coherence tomography.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: The continuous advancement in cosmetic science has led to an increasing demand for the development of non-invasive, reliable scientific techniques directed toward claim substantiation, which is of utmost relevance, to obtain data regarding the efficacy and safety of cosmetic products. METHODS: In this work, we used the optical coherence tomography (OCT) technique to produce in vitro transversal section-images of human hair. We also compared the OCT signal before and after chemical treatment with an 18% w/w ammonium thioglycolate solution. RESULTS: The mean diameter of the medulla was 29+/-7 microm and the hair diameter was 122+/-16 microm in our samples of standard Afro-ethnic hair. A three-dimensional (3D) image was constructed starting from 601 cross-sectional images (slices). Each slice was taken in steps of 6.0 microm at eight frames per second, and the entire 3D image was constructed in 60 s. CONCLUSION: It was possible to identify, using the A-scan protocol, the principal structures: the cuticle, cortex and medulla. After chemical treatment, it was not possible to identify the main structures of hair fiber due to index matching promoted by deleterious action of the chemical agent.

Influence of urea, isopropanol, and propylene glycol on rutin in vitro release from cosmetic semisolid systems estimated by factorial design.

Rutin, one of the major flavonoids found in an assortment of plants, was reported to act as a sun protection factor booster with high anti-UVA defense, antioxidant, antiaging, and anticellulite, by improvement of the cutaneous microcirculation. This research work aimed at evaluating the rutin in vitro release from semisolid systems, in vertical diffusion cells, containing urea, isopropanol and propylene glycol, associated or not, according to the factorial design with two levels with center point. Urea (alone and in association with isopropanol and propylene glycol) and isopropanol (alone and in association with propylene glycol) influenced significant and negatively rutin liberation in diverse parameters: flux (microg/cm(2).h); apparent permeability coefficient (cm/h); rutin amount released (microg/cm(2)); and liberation enhancement factor. In accordance with the results, the presence of propylene glycol 5.0% (wt/wt) presented statistically favorable to promote rutin release from this semisolid system with flux = 105.12 +/- 8.59 microg/cm(2).h; apparent permeability coefficient = 7.01 +/- 0.572 cm/h; rutin amount released = 648.80 +/- 53.01 microg/cm(2); and liberation enhancement factor = 1.21 +/- 0.07.

Broad spectrum bioactive sunscreens.

The development of sunscreens containing reduced concentration of chemical UV filters, even though, possessing broad spectrum effectiveness with the use of natural raw materials that improve and infer UV absorption is of great interest. Due to the structural similarities between polyphenolic compounds and organic UV filters, they might exert photoprotection activity. The objective of the present research work was to develop bioactive sunscreen delivery systems containing rutin, Passiflora incarnata L. and Plantago lanceolata extracts associated or not with organic and inorganic UV filters. UV transmission of the sunscreen delivery system films was performed by using diffuse transmittance measurements coupling to an integrating sphere. In vitro photoprotection efficacy was evaluated according to the following parameters: estimated sun protection factor (SPF); Boot's Star Rating category; UVA/UVB ratio; and critical wavelength (lambda(c)). Sunscreen delivery systems obtained SPF values ranging from 0.972+/-0.004 to 28.064+/-2.429 and bioactive compounds interacted with the UV filters positive and negatively. This behavior may be attributed to: the composition of the delivery system; the presence of inorganic UV filter and quantitative composition of the organic UV filters; and the phytochemical composition of the P. incarnata L. and P. lanceolata extracts. Among all associations of bioactive compounds and UV filters, we found that the broad spectrum sunscreen was accomplished when 1.68% (w/w) P. incarnata L. dry extract was in the presence of 7.0% (w/w) ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 2.0% (w/w) benzophenone-3 and 2.0% (w/w) TiO(2). It was demonstrated that this association generated estimated SPF of 20.072+/-0.906 and it has improved the protective defense against UVA radiation accompanying augmentation of the UVA/UVB ratio from 0.49 to 0.52 and lambda(c) from 364 to 368.6nm.

Validation Cytotoxicity Assay for Lipophilic Substances.

It is challenging to disperse lipophilic substances in a validated cytotoxicity assay, especially for compounds with log Kow greater than or equal to 5 that may show false negative results. The purpose of this study was to explain the challenges in conducting a cytotoxicity validated test of lipophilic substances: Minthostachys setosa, Pimenta pseudocaryophyllus, and Drimysbrasiliensis essential oils. Additionally, we compared the equivalence of Neutral Red (NR) and 3- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -5- (3- carboxymethoxyphenyl) -2- (4-sulfophenyl) -2H -tetrazolium, inner salt (MTS) in detecting cell viability. The Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB) technique was used to evaluate the dispersion of essential oils and cytotoxicity in accordance to the guidelines of the OECD / GD 129 validated cytotoxicity assay. We compared the equivalence of vital dyes by TOST equivalence test. According to the results, we demonstrated the possibility of using other ways to disperse the lipophilic substances. Based on the HLB theory, we selected polysorbate 20 as the best solubilizing agent of the essential oils studied in D10 culture medium.

Evaluating measurement uncertainty in the microbiological assay of vancomycin from methodology validation data.

Methodology validation and measurement uncertainty estimation are fundamental to obtain reliable results. The microbiological methods are widely used to determine antibiotic assay, as they permit evaluation of the analyzed antibiotic activity. A microbiological assay of vancomycin was performed with adoption of experimental design 5 x 1 (interpolation in 5-point standard curve assay) with final concentrations from 6.4 to 15.6 microg/mL (standards) and 10.0 microg/mL (sample). Bacillus subtitlis (ATCC 6633) was the microorganism used, with antibiotic medium No. 8 as base layer and inoculated layer. The plates were incubated at 37 degrees C for 18 h. The method adopted for the microbiological assay of vancomycin through agar diffusion was validated according to statistic results demonstrated for suitability of the method concerning linearity, precision, and accuracy. The estimated relative expanded uncertainty (4.3%) was considered adequate for this method purpose.

Validation of erythromycin microbiological assay using an alternative experimental design.

The agar diffusion method, widely used in antibiotic dosage, relates the diameter of the inhibition zone to the dose of the substance assayed. An experimental plan is proposed that may provide better results and an indication of the assay validity. The symmetric or balanced assays (2 x 2) as well as those with interpolation in standard curve (5 x 1) are the main designs used in the dosage of antibiotics. This study proposes an alternative experimental design for erythromycin microbiological assay with the evaluation of the validation parameters of the method referring to linearity, precision, and accuracy. The design proposed (3 x 1) uses 3 doses of standard and 1 dose of sample applied in a unique plate, aggregating the characteristics of the 2 x 2 and 5 x 1 assays. The method was validated for erythromycin microbiological assay through agar diffusion, revealing its adequacy to linearity, precision, and accuracy standards. Likewise, the statistical methods used demonstrated their accordance with the method concerning the parameters evaluated. The 3 x 1 design proved to be adequate for the dosage of erythromycin and thus a good alternative for erythromycin assay.

Clay facial masks: physicochemical stability at different storage temperatures.

Clay facial masks--formulations that contain a high percentage of solids dispersed in a liquid vehicle--have become of special interest due to specific properties presented by clays, such as particle size, cooling index, high adsorption capacity, and plasticity. Although most of the physicochemical properties of clay dispersions have been studied, specific aspects concerning the physicochemical stability of clay mask products remain unclear. This work aimed at investigating the accelerated physicochemical stability of clay mask formulations stored at different temperatures. Formulations were subjected to centrifuge testing and to thermal treatment for 15 days, during which temperature was varied from -5.0 degrees to 45.0 degrees C. The apparent viscosity and visual aspect (homogeneity) of all formulations were affected by temperature variation, whereas color, odor, and pH value remained unaltered. These results, besides the estimation of physicochemical stability under aging, can be useful in determining the best storage conditions for clay-based formulations.

Desferrioxamine and desferrioxamine-caffeine as carriers of aluminum and gallium to microbes via the Trojan Horse Effect.

Iron acquisition by bacteria and fungi involves in several cases the promiscuous usage of siderophores. Thus, antibiotic resistance from these microorganisms can be circumvented through a strategy of loading toxic metals into siderophores (Trojan Horse Effect). Desferrioxamine (dfo) and its cell-permeant derivative desferrioxamine-caffeine (dfcaf) were complexed with aluminum or gallium for this purpose. The complexes Me(dfo) and Me(dfcaf) (Me=Al3+ and Ga3+) were synthesized and characterized by mass spectroscopy and cyclic voltammetry. Their relative stabilities were studied through competitive equilibria with fluorescent probes calcein, fluorescein-desferrioxamine and 8-hydroxyquinoline. Me(dfo) and Me(dfcaf) were consistently more toxic than free Me3+ against Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans, demonstrating the Trojan Horse Effect. Wide spectrum antimicrobial action can be obtained by loading non-essential or toxic metal ions to microbes via a convenient siderophore carrier.

Optimization of poorly compactable drug tablets manufactured by direct compression using the mixture experimental design.

The poor flowability and bad compressibility characteristics of paracetamol are well known. As a result, the production of paracetamol tablets is almost exclusively by wet granulation, a disadvantageous method when compared to direct compression. The development of a new tablet formulation is still based on a large number of experiments and often relies merely on the experience of the analyst. The purpose of this study was to apply experimental design methodology (DOE) to the development and optimization of tablet formulations containing high amounts of paracetamol (more than 70%) and manufactured by direct compression. Nineteen formulations, screened by DOE methodology, were produced with different proportions of Microcel 102, Kollydon VA 64, Flowlac, Kollydon CL 30, PEG 4000, Aerosil, and magnesium stearate. Tablet properties, except friability, were in accordance with the USP 28th ed. requirements. These results were used to generate plots for optimization, mainly for friability. The physical-chemical data found from the optimized formulation were very close to those from the regression analysis, demonstrating that the mixture project is a great tool for the research and development of new formulations.

Evaluation of the interaction of surfactants with stratum corneum model membrane from Bothrops jararaca by DSC.

The interaction of surfactants sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (CTAC) and lauryl alcohol ethoxylated (12 mol ethylene oxide) (LAE-12OE) was evaluated on the stratum corneum (SC) of shed snake skins from Bothrops jararaca, used as model membrane, and thermal characterized by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Surfactant solutions were employed above of the critical micellar concentration (CMC) with treatment time of 8h. The SDS interaction with the SC model membrane has increased the characteristic transition temperature of 130 degrees C in approximately 10 degrees C for the water loss and keratin denaturation, indicating an augmentation of the water content. Samples treated with CTAC have a decrease of the water loss temperature, while, for the LAE-12OE treated samples, changes on the transition temperature have not been observed.

Spectroscopic studies of stratum corneum model membrane from Bothrops jararaca treated with cationic surfactant.

This research employed FT-Raman and PAS-FTIR spectroscopic techniques to evaluate the interaction of cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (CTAC), a cationic surfactant, on the stratum corneum (SC) of shed snake skins from Bothrops jararaca, used as model membranes. Surfactant aqueous solutions (50.0 and 0.78 gl(-1)) with neutral pH were applied on the samples with intervals of 4, 8 (whole SC) and 12h (SC tape-stripped). Samples presented modifications of the topography for all conditions of the assays and the monomers of the surfactant, instead of the micelles, seemed to interact with the keratin. The SC model membranes treated with CTAC have had an augment of water content (except for whole SC treated for 8h) indicated by the expansion of the band 3600-3300 cm(-1), mainly for the tape-stripped samples after 12h treatment. Concentration appeared to be an important factor related to an increase of the tissue hydration.

Functional photostability and cutaneous compatibility of bioactive UVA sun care products.

Sunscreens are the most-established approach for photoprotection. The strategy of providing antioxidant properties to sun care products by addition of natural and potent anti-free radical compounds has led to the development of bioactive sunscreens, able to neutralize the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UVA filters, such as benzophenone-3 (BP) and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM), can exhibit photodegradation which limits the development of broad spectrum sunscreens. Previous research verified that rutin interacts with filters incorporated in sunscreens. In this work, we focused on the development and evaluation of the efficacy of the sunscreens containing either BP or BMDBM with and without rutin. The addition of rutin to the UVA filters afforded antioxidant properties to the formulations and they were considered safe for human use. Additionally, rutin in combination with either BP or BMDBM increased the antioxidant activity about 40 times when compared with the UVA filters alone. Remarkably, the addition of rutin 0.1% (w/w) to BP 6.0% (w/w) raised the SPF from 24.3±1.53 to 33.3±2.89. In conclusion, these findings demonstrated that the addition of rutin into sunscreens can markedly improve the antioxidant properties of the formulation as well as photostabilize some of the UVA filters.

Desferrioxamine-cadmium as a 'Trojan horse' for the delivery of Cd to bacteria and fungi.

Molecules naturally designed for the acquisition of essential metals can be used as a shuttle to deliver toxic metal ions to target organisms. In this study, we describe for the first time the synthesis of a derivative of cadmium and desferrioxamine B, a bacterial siderophore. The new compound was characterized by elemental analysis, vibrational (infrared and Raman) spectroscopy, mass coupled thermal analyses and X-ray diffraction methods. Studies on the in vitro toxicity toward a fungus and two bacterial strains indicated that the coordination compound is more active against microrganisms than cadmium chloride on a Cd-concentration basis, indicating that desferrioxamine can work as a "Trojan horse" in the delivery of a toxic metal.