Clustering-based preprocessing method for lipidomic data analysis: application for the evolution of newborn skin surface lipids from birth until 6 months.

After life in utero and birth, the skin is submitted to an important process of adaptation to a relatively dry gaseous environment. Skin surface lipids (SSLs) contribute actively to the protection of the skin barrier. Within this context, our objective was to study the evolution of each lipid compound during the postnatal period. SSLs were collected from six newborns a few days after birth until the age of 6 months. Seventy samples were analyzed using high-temperature gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (HT-GC/MS). The use of separative techniques coupled to mass spectrometry for the analysis of samples containing complex mixtures of lipids generates a large volume of data which renders the results interpretation very difficult. In this study, we propose a new approach to handle the raw data, a clustering-based preprocessing method (CB-PPM), in order to achieve (1) volume reduction of data provided by each chromatogram without loss of information, (2) alignment of time retention shift between different runs, (3) clustering of mass spectra of the same molecule in one qualitative group, (4) and integration of all data into a single matrix to be explored by chemometric tools. This approach allowed us to gather data variations in 256 qualitative groups and therefore enabled us to highlight the variation of compounds including those of low intensity. Moreover, the representation of all data gathered in one matrix rendered reading of the results rapid and efficient. Thus, using this approach, we have demonstrated an increase of cholesterol esterification with epidermal fatty acids (C20 to C25) with age. This epidermis participation in SSL production at a molecular level in the first period of life has not been previously shown. These data can be very interesting for the development and improvement of products destined for the protection of infant skin. Graphical abstract ᅟ.

Effects of solar radiations on stratum corneum hydration: Part II, protective action of solar filters.

The skin surface lipids (SSLs) film, composed of sebum and keratinocyte membrane lipids, is crucial to the barrier function of the stratum corneum (SC). The first part of this study investigated the impact of solar radiation on the SC based on a novel hydration and dehydration approach using Raman spectroscopy. The SSLs were found to absorb solar light, and thus participate to the protection of the skin surface. However, the protective function of the SSLs may be limited and is dependent to the heterogenous distribution of SSLs over the body surface. To ensure comprehensive protection, synergistic measures such as the application of solar filters are necessary. In this second part of the study, we have evaluated the limits of the protection capacity of SSLs and explored the protective action of a solar filters on both SSLs composition and the water hydration and dehydration kinetics in the SC.

Effects of solar radiations on stratum corneum hydration: Part I, protective role of skin surface lipids.

This study used Raman spectroscopy to develop a new approach to evaluate the effects of solar radiation on the stratum corneum (SC). The method measures the SC's hydration and dehydration kinetics by calculating the vOH/vCH ratio to monitor the relative water content during the drying process. The study also investigated the role of skin surface lipids (SSLs) in protecting the SC from solar radiation. The SSLs film is a complex mixture of free fatty acids, triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, free and esterified cholesterols, that play a crucial role in the skin's barrier function. The results showed that solar radiation alters the water content and balance within the SC, and SSLs provide protection by acting as an optical filter by absorbing some of the energy of the solar light. This is confirmed by high temperature gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analyses by revealing a decrease in specific lipids after irradiating the SSLs .

Birch bark tar in early Medieval England - Continuity of tradition or technological revival?

Birch bark tar is a manufactured product with a history of production and use that reaches back to the Palaeolithic. Its sticky, water resistant and biocidal properties mean that it has a wide range of applications, for example, as a multipurpose adhesive, sealant and in medicine. Archaeological evidence for birch bark tar in the old world covers a broad geographic range from the UK to the Baltic and from the Mediterranean to Scandinavia. In the east and north of this range there is continuity of use to modern times but in western Europe and the British Isles the use of birch bark tar has generally been viewed as limited to prehistory, with gradual displacement by pine tars during the Roman period. Here, we report new finds of birch bark tar from two early Medieval sites in the east of England. Analysis by HT-GC/MS to identify the tars also revealed fatty material, possibly added to modify the tar. The different contexts of the finds point to diverse applications of the material: in one case perhaps a medicine, the other associated with a ceramic container, possibly used for processing the tar. The results present the first identification of birch bark tar from early Medieval archaeological contexts in the UK. Together they indicate a later period of use for birch bark tar in the UK than has been previously observed and raise the question of whether this indicates evidence of a longer continuity of use than hitherto recognised or a later reintroduction of the technology in the Medieval period, in which case the similarities between the find sites, both early Anglo-Saxon cemeteries with comparable assemblages of grave goods, may be significant.