Sniffing Out the Sustainable Future: The Renewability Revolution in Fragrance Chemistry.

In this review, the impact of the transition from today's resource-wasting petrochemical economy towards a 100/100 renewable and biodegradable future is discussed with respect to the fragrance families: "citrus", "green", "fruity", "floral", "floriental", "oriental", "woody", "chypre" and "fougère". After benchmark data on ingredients usage, definitions on biodegradation and sustainability are given. Celebrating the 150th anniversary of synthetic vanillin, its historic synthesis from renewable starting materials serves as introduction. In the grand scheme of things, citrus scents upcycled from the beverages industry, are already an ideal case for 100/100 with new opportunities for artificial essential oils. In the fruity domain, transparent and lactonic ingredients are available in a sustainable manner. However, in the domain of green odorants, there is a lack of green chemistry for important key materials. In the floral family, renewability is more critical than biodegradability, but cost is an issue. Thanks to Ambrox and maltol, florientals and orientals will persist, while woody notes severely lack an Iso E Super replacer. In the chypre genre, patchouli became the new moss, but more musks are increasingly in demand. With their high percentage of linalool and dihydromyrcenol, the construction of fougères could well become a precedent for other families, despite challenges in vetiver and salicylates. Still, the challenges exemplified here create immense opportunities for new perfumery materials.

Release of Volatile Cyclopentanone Derivatives from Imidazolidin-4-One Profragrances in a Fabric Softener Application.

Imidazolidin-4-ones were investigated as hydrolytically cleavable profragrances to increase the long-lastingness of perfume perception in a fabric softener application. The reaction of different amino acid amides with 2-alkyl- or 2-alkenylcyclopentanones as the model fragrances to be released afforded the corresponding bi- or tricyclic imidazolidin-4-ones as mixtures of diastereoisomers, which were separated by column chromatography. In polar solution, the different stereoisomers equilibrated under thermodynamic conditions to form mixtures with constant isomeric distributions, as shown by NMR spectroscopy. Dynamic headspace analysis on dry cotton demonstrated the controlled fragrance release from the precursors in practical application. Under non-equilibrium conditions (continuous evaporation of the fragrance) and depending on the structure and stereochemistry of the profragrances, the recorded headspace concentrations of the fragrance released from the precursors increased by a factor of 2 up to 100 with respect to the unmodified reference. Prolinamide-based precursors released the highest amount of fragrance and were thus found to be particularly suitable for prolonging the evaporation of cyclopentanone-derived fragrances on a dry cotton surface.

An End Point-Specific Framework for Read-Across Analog Selection for Human Health Effects.

Integrating computational chemistry and toxicology can improve the read-across analog approach to fill data gaps in chemical safety assessment. In read-across, structure-related parameters are compared between a target chemical with insufficient test data and one or more materials with sufficient data. Recent advances have focused on enhancing the grouping or clustering of chemicals to facilitate toxicity prediction via read-across. Analog selection ascertains relevant features, such as physical-chemical properties, toxicokinetic-related properties (bioavailability, metabolism, and degradation pathways), and toxicodynamic properties of chemicals with an emphasis on mechanisms or modes of action. However, each human health end point (genotoxicity, skin sensitization, phototoxicity, repeated dose toxicity, reproductive toxicity, and local respiratory toxicity) provides a different critical context for analog selection. Here six end point-specific, rule-based schemes are described. Each scheme creates an end point-specific workflow for filling the target material data gap by read-across. These schemes are intended to create a transparent rationale that supports the selected read-across analog(s) for the specific end point under study. This framework can systematically drive the selection of read-across analogs for each end point, thereby accelerating the safety assessment process.

Use of alternative test methods in a tiered testing approach to address photoirritation potential of fragrance materials.

The safety assessment of fragrance materials for photoirritation utilized by The Research Institute for Fragrance Materials has recently been modified and is described in detail. Materials demonstrating significant absorbance in the ultraviolet and visible light (UV/VIS) range (290-700 nm) may present a concern for photoirritation and require further investigation. If there are no photoirritation data or data are insufficient, then data on read-across materials are considered before a tiered approach for testing begins. The hazard-based 3T3-Neutral Red Uptake (NRU) Phototoxicity Test (OECD TG 432) is used as a first-tier assay; if it predicts photoirritation, it is followed by the reconstructed human epidermis (RhE) phototoxicity assay (OECD TG 498). The RhE phototoxicity assay is used to determine a No Observed Effect Level (NOEL) for photoirritation that is used in a confirmatory human photoirritation test. Data are presented on 108 fragrance materials exhibiting significant UV/VIS absorbance and evaluated in the 3T3-NRU Phototoxicity Assay. Twenty-one materials were predicted to be phototoxic; twenty were evaluated in the RhE Phototoxicity Assay to establish a NOEL. Fourteen materials were then evaluated in a confirmatory human phototoxicity test. The tiered testing approach presented represents a scientifically pragmatic method to minimize the likelihood of photoirritation from fragrance materials.

Fleeting Beauty-The World of Plant Fragrances and Their Application.

This article is devoted to some aspects of the fragrant substances of plant origin applied in the food industry and perfumery as well. Since antiquity many extractive techniques have been developed to obtain essential oils. Some of them are still applied, but new ones, like microwave or ultrasound-assisted extractions, are more and more popular and they save time and cost. Independently of the procedure, the resulting essential oils are the source of many so-called isolates. These can be applied as food additives, medicines, or can be used as starting materials for organic synthesis. Some substances exist in very small amounts in plant material so the extraction is not economically profitable but, after their chemical structures were established and synthetic procedures were developed, in some cases they are prepared on an industrial scale. The substances described below are only a small fraction of the 2000-3000 fragrant molecules used to make our life more enjoyable, either in food or perfumes. Additionally, a few examples of allelopathic fragrant compounds, present in their natural state, will be denoted and some of their biocidal features will be mentioned as an arising "green" knowledge in agriculture.

Perfume and Flavor Engineering: A Chemical Engineering Perspective.

In the last two decades, scientific methodologies for the prediction of the design, performance and classification of fragrance mixtures have been developed at the Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering. This review intends to give an overview of such developments. It all started with the question: what do we smell? The Perfumery Ternary Diagram enables us to determine the dominant odor for each perfume composition. Evaporation and 1D diffusion model is analyzed based on vapor-liquid equilibrium and Fick's law for diffusion giving access to perfume performance parameters. The effect of matrix and skin is addressed and the trail of perfumes analyzed. Classification of perfumes with the perfumery radar is discussed. The methodology is extended to flavor and taste engineering. Finally, future research directions are suggested.

The Characteristic Fragrant Sesquiterpenes and 2-(2-Phenylethyl)chromones in Wild and Cultivated "Qi-Nan" Agarwood.

Recently, cultivated "Qi-Nan" (CQN) agarwood has emerged as a new high-quality agarwood in the agarwood market owing to its similar characteristics, such as high content of resin and richness in two 2-(2-phenylethyl)chromone derivatives, 2-(2-phenylethyl)chromone (59) and 2-[2-(4-methoxyphenyl)ethyl]chromone (60), to the wild harvested "Qi-Nan" (WQN) agarwood. In this study, we compared the chemical constituents and fragrant components of two types of WQN agarwood from A. agallocha Roxb. and A. sinensis, respectively, with CQN agarwood and ordinary agarwood varieties. Additionally, we analyzed different samples of WQN agarwood and CQN agarwood by GC-MS, which revealed several noteworthy differences between WQN and CQN agarwood. The chemical diversity of WQN was greater than that of CQN agarwood. The content of (59) and (60) was higher in CQN agarwood than in WQN agarwood. For the sesquiterpenes, the richness and diversity of sesquiterpenes in WQN agarwood, particularly guaiane and agarofuran sesquiterpenes, were higher than those in CQN. Moreover, guaiane-furans sesquiterpenes were only detected by GC-MS in WQN agarwood of A. sinensis and could be a chemical marker for the WQN agarwood of A. sinensis. In addition, we summarized the odor descriptions of the constituents and established the correlation of scents and chemical constituents in the agarwood.

HS-SPME-GC-MS and Electronic Nose Reveal Differences in the Volatile Profiles of Hedychium Flowers.

Floral fragrance is one of the most important characteristics of ornamental plants and plays a pivotal role in plant lifespan such as pollinator attraction, pest repelling, and protection against abiotic and biotic stresses. However, the precise determination of floral fragrance is limited. In the present study, the floral volatile compounds of six Hedychium accessions exhibiting from faint to highly fragrant were comparatively analyzed via gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and Electronic nose (E-nose). A total of 42 volatile compounds were identified through GC-MS analysis, including monoterpenoids (18 compounds), sesquiterpenoids (12), benzenoids/phenylpropanoids (8), fatty acid derivatives (2), and others (2). In Hedychium coronarium 'ZS', H. forrestii 'Gaoling', H. 'Jin', H. 'Caixia', and H. 'Zhaoxia', monoterpenoids were abundant, while sesquiterpenoids were found in large quantities in H. coccineum 'KMH'. Hierarchical clustering analysis (HCA) divided the 42 volatile compounds into four different groups (I, II, III, IV), and Spearman correlation analysis showed these compounds to have different degrees of correlation. The E-nose was able to group the different accessions in the principal component analysis (PCA) corresponding to scent intensity. Furthermore, the pattern-recognition findings confirmed that the E-nose data validated the GC-MS results. The partial least squares (PLS) analysis between floral volatile compounds and sensors suggested that specific sensors were highly sensitive to terpenoids. In short, the E-nose is proficient in discriminating Hedychium accessions of different volatile profiles in both quantitative and qualitative aspects, offering an accurate and rapid reference technique for future applications.

Quantification of Residual Perfume by Py-GC-MS in Fragrance Encapsulate Polymeric Materials Intended for Biodegradation Tests.

Perfume encapsulates are widely used in commercial products to control the kinetic release of odorant molecules, increase storage stability and/or improve deposition on different substrates. In most of the cases, they consist of core-shell polymeric microcapsules that contain fragrance molecules. A current challenge is to design and produce polymeric materials for encapsulation that are both resistant and non-persistent. The selection of such eco-friendly formulations is linked to a deep understanding of the polymeric material used for encapsulation and its biodegradation profile. To collect this information, pure samples of capsule shells are needed. In this article we present an innovative quantification method for residual volatiles based on pyrolysis-GC-MS to enable validation of sample quality prior to further testing. The presented analytical method also led to the development of a robust and comprehensive purification protocol for polymers from commercial samples. Standard techniques are not suited for this kind of measurement due to the non-covalent embedding of volatiles in the 3D structure of the polymers. We demonstrated the confounding impact of residual volatiles on the estimated biodegradability of fragrance encapsulates.

Partitioning of Selected Anisole and Veratrole Derivatives between Water and Anionic Surfactant Micelles.

The UV absorption spectra of six structurally related derivatives of anisole and veratrole, i.e., anisaldehyde, (E)-anethole, estragole, veratraldehyde, methyleugenol and (E)-methylisoeugenol, were recorded at various concentrations of the anionic surfactants, either sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) at T = 298 K. In addition, conductivity and density measurements were made for the SLS and SLES solutions to determine the volumetric properties of the studied surfactants. Next, using the W. Al-Soufi, L. Pineiro and M. Novo model (APN model) including the pseudo-phase model for micellar solubilization, the values of micelle-water partition coefficients for each perfume-surfactant system were determined. In addition, the relations between the molecular structures of the solute and the head group of the surfactant and the value of the micelle-water partition coefficient as well as the octanol-water one were discussed.

One Hundred Faces of Geraniol.

Geraniol is a monoterpenic alcohol with a pleasant rose-like aroma, known as an important ingredient in many essential oils, and is used commercially as a fragrance compound in cosmetic and household products. However, geraniol has a number of biological activities, such as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In addition, numerous in vitro and in vivo studies have shown the activity of geraniol against prostate, bowel, liver, kidney and skin cancer. It can induce apoptosis and increase the expression of proapoptotic proteins. The synergy of this with other drugs may further increase the range of chemotherapeutic agents. The antibacterial activity of this compound was also observed on respiratory pathogens, skin and food-derived strains. This review discusses some of the most important uses of geraniol.

Myroxylon pereirae resin (balsam of Peru) - A critical review of the literature and assessment of the significance of positive patch test reactions and the usefulness of restrictive diets.

In this article, contact allergy to Myroxylon pereirae resin (MP) (balsam of Peru) is reviewed. The topics presented include the uses, the chemical composition, the frequency of sensitization, the relevance of positive reactions, the MP-containing products causing allergic contact dermatitis, co-reactivity with other fragrance and non-fragrance materials, the sensitizers, the usefulness of MP as a "marker" of fragrance allergy, and the effectiveness of, and indications for, "balsam-restrictive" diets. Sensitization to MP occurs in 4% to 8% of patients routinely tested for suspected contact dermatitis. There are few adequate data on relevance. Topical pharmaceuticals were formerly, but are not today, important sources of sensitization. Cosmetics and foods or drinks are hardly ever products responsible for sensitization to MP. Positive patch test reactions in the large majority probably result from previous sensitization to MP constituents because of their presence in fragrances and fragranced products, MP thereby acting as marker (or "indicator") of fragrance allergy. However, fragrance mix I is a more sensitive marker, and the added diagnostic value of testing with MP is unknown. The allergenic ingredients of MP include isoeugenol, eugenol and cinnamyl alcohol, but there are other-largely unknown-chemicals that are responsible for contact allergy. Suggestions are given for further research to address questions thus far unanswered and to improve patient care.

Molecular docking predictions of fragrance binding to human leukocyte antigen molecules.

BACKGROUND: Over 4000 small chemicals have been identified as allergens capable of inducing skin sensitization. Many sensitizers are hypothesized to act as haptens producing novel antigens, which can be presented to T cells by human leukocyte antigens (HLAs). Recent studies suggest that some chemical allergens use hapten-independent mechanisms. OBJECTIVE: To determine whether molecular docking can identify HLA molecules that bind skin-sensitizing chemical allergens. METHODS: Structural models of HLA molecules were used as the basis for molecular docking of 22 chemical allergens. Allergens predicted to bind HLA-B*57:01 were tested for their ability to stimulate T cells by the use of proliferation and interferon-gamma enzyme-linked immunospot assays. RESULTS: Chemical allergens that did not satisfy the criteria for hapten activity in vitro were predicted to bind more strongly to common HLA isoforms than those with known hapten activity. HLA-B*57:01, which is an HLA allele required for drug hypersensitivity reactions, was predicted to bind several allergens, including benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate, and benzyl salicylate. In in vitro T cell stimulation assays, benzyl salicylate and benzyl cinnamate were found to stimulate T cell responses from HLA-B*57:01 carriers. CONCLUSIONS: These data suggest that small-molecule skin sensitizers have the potential to interact with HLA, and show that T cell-based in vitro assays may be used to evaluate the immunogenicity of skin-sensitizing chemicals.

Extraction of Natural Fragrance Ingredients: History Overview and Future Trends.

For centuries, perfumes consisted in a combination of natural ingredients, mainly of plant origin. From the 19th century on, the advent of organic synthesis enabled the deployment of multiple synthetic olfactory notes, enriching significantly the perfumers' portfolio. Chemistry is ever since the foundation of modern perfumery. However, sustainable-minded consumers, massively rejecting synthetics for safety and ecological issues, engaged a global return to nature in numerous sectors, and the fragrance industry is not outdone. Sustainable extraction of natural products, making use of innovative technologies, process intensification and agro-based solvents, constitutes the answer to develop eco-conceived fragrant ingredients covering every olfactory family without endangering biodiversity any further. The objective of this review is to draw a clear picture of where those technological advances are today and to assess the ones that may be effectively transposed at the industrial scale tomorrow.

Identification of Floral Scent Profiles in Bearded Irises.

Bearded irises are ornamental plants with distinctive floral fragrance grown worldwide. To identify the floral scent profiles, twenty-seven accessions derived from three bearded iris, including Iris. germanica, I. pumila and I. pallida were used to investigate the composition and relative contents of floral scent components by headspace solid-phase microextraction (HS-SPME) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). A total of 219 floral scent components were detected in blooming flowers. The scent profile varied significantly among and within the three investigated species. Principal component analysis (PCA) indicated that terpenes, alcohols and esters contributed the most to the floral scent components and 1-caryophyllene, linalool, citronellol, methyl cinnamate, ß-cedrene, thujopsene, methyl myristate, linalyl acetate, isosafrole, nerol, geraniol were identified as the major components. In a hierarchical cluster analysis, twenty-seven accessions could be clustered into six different groups, most of which had representative scent components such as linalool, citronellyl acetate, thujopsene, citronellol, methyl cinnamate and 1-caryophyllene. Our findings provide a theoretical reference for floral scent evaluation and breeding of bearded irises.

Synthetic Musks: A Class of Commercial Fragrance Additives in Personal Care Products (PCPs) Causing Concern as Emerging Contaminants.

Synthetic musks (SMs) are promising fragrance additives used in personal care products (PCPs). The widespread presence of SMs in environmental media remains a serious risk because of their harmful effects. Recently, the environmental hazards of SMs have been widely reported in various environmental samples including those from coastal and marine regions. This paper provides a systematic review of SMs, including their classification, synthetic routes, analysis and occurrence in environmental samples, fate and toxicity in the environment, as well as the associated risk assessment and pollution control. Research gaps and future opportunities were also identified with the hope of raising interest in this topic.

Qualitative analysis of flavors and fragrances added to tea by using GC-MS.

A precise identification method was developed to identify the flavors and fragrances added to tea matrix artificially using gas chromatography with mass spectrometry and gas chromatography with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry. The proposed method was based on the corresponding "three-column retention indices, two exact mass numbers, one mass spectrum matching degree" database of 40 kinds of common flavors and fragrances. The intraday and the interday relative standard deviation of the retention indices were less than 0.048 and 0.093%, respectively. The accuracy of exact mass was between 0.15 and 6.22 ppm. And the validation of the created database was performed by analyzing the tea samples. Thus, the proposed method is suitable for the precise identification of the flavors and fragrances added to tea matrix artificially without standard substances as a reference.

Effect of Fluorination on Skin Sensitization Potential and Fragrant Properties of Cinnamyl Compounds.

A series of three α- and three ß-fluorinated representatives of the family of cinnamate-derived odorants (cinnamaldehyde (1), cinnamyl alcohol (2), and ethyl cinnamate (3)) as used as fragrance ingredients is described. Olfactive evaluation shows that the fluorinated compounds exhibit a similar odor profile to their parent compounds, but the olfactive detection thresholds are clearly higher. In vitro evaluation of the skin sensitizing properties with three different assays indicates that α-fluorination of Michael acceptor systems 1 and 3 slightly improves the skin sensitization profile. α-Fluorocinnamyl alcohol 2b is a weaker skin sensitizer than cinnamyl alcohol 2a by in vitro tests and the fluorinated product drops below the sensitization threshold of the KeratinoSens® assay. On the other hand, ß-fluorination of compounds 1 - 3 results in highly reactive products which display a worsened in vitro skin sensitization profile.

Effect of zein additive on perfume evaporation.

OBJECTIVE: Zein is known to have filmogen properties. We wanted to show if a zein film containing eugenol (eugenol as model) would retain the fragrances, slow their evaporation and therefore produce a long-lasting perception of perfume. METHODS: We added corn zein to eugenol in a hydro-alcoholic solution to form a film in vitro and at the surface of the human skin. We have studied the trapping and release of eugenol from zein film by GC/MS. Also we labelled eugenol with deuterium to image specifically its distribution in the zein film using Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry technique (NanoSIMS 50). Finally, we applied the zein/D-eugenol formulation onto skin to image the eugenol location on and in skin by SIMS (Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry). RESULTS: We showed that eugenol evaporation from zein film can be divided in three periods. The first period (≤2 h) corresponds to the simultaneous solvent and eugenol evaporation occurring during film formation. The second period corresponds to the continuous and slow eugenol evaporation during a few hours (about 10 h) but not to its completion. The third period (at least up to 48 h) results from the trapping of eugenol in zein film. After 24 or 48 h, trapped eugenol can be released and evaporated under mechanical deformations of the film. Moreover we showed that zein addition does not favour the eugenol penetration into viable epidermis which may cause allergenic cutaneous reaction. CONCLUSION: The zein additive is safe to use, does not impact the olfactory perception, allows a better perception of the fragrance (long-lasting effect) in a more protective way and can be used in perfume.

Application of the expanded Creme RIFM consumer exposure model to fragrance ingredients in cosmetic, personal care and air care products.

As part of a joint project between the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) and Creme Global, a Monte Carlo model (here named the Creme RIFM model) has been developed to estimate consumer exposure to ingredients in personal care products. Details of the model produced in Phase 1 of the project have already been published. Further data on habits and practises have been collected which enable the model to estimate consumer exposure from dermal, oral and inhalation routes for 25 product types. . In addition, more accurate concentration data have been obtained which allow levels of fragrance ingredients in these product types to be modelled. Described is the use of this expanded model to estimate aggregate systemic exposure for eight fragrance ingredients. Results are shown for simulated systemic exposure (expressed as µg/kg bw/day) for each fragrance ingredient in each product type, along with simulated aggregate exposure. Highest fragrance exposure generally occurred from use of body lotions, body sprays and hydroalcoholic products. For the fragrances investigated, aggregate exposure calculated using this model was 11.5-25 fold lower than that calculated using deterministic methodology. The Creme RIFM model offers a very comprehensive and powerful tool for estimating aggregate exposure to fragrance ingredients.