Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers.
Eur J Sport Sci
; 17(9): 1177-1183, 2017 Oct.
Article
em En
| MEDLINE
| ID: mdl-28753391
ABSTRACT
This study examined differences in the oxygenation kinetics and strength and endurance characteristics of boulderers and lead sport climbers. Using near infrared spectroscopy, 13-boulderers, 10-lead climbers, and 10-controls completed assessments of oxidative capacity index and muscle oxygen consumption (mâ©O2) in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), and extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Additionally, forearm strength (maximal volitional contraction MVC), endurance (force-time integral FTI at 40% MVC), and forearm volume (FAV and ΔFAV) was assessed. MVC was significantly greater in boulderers compared to lead climbers (mean difference = 9.6, 95% CI 5.2-14â
kg). FDP and EDC oxidative capacity indexes were significantly greater (p = .041 and .013, respectively) in lead climbers and boulderers compared to controls (mean difference = -1.166, 95% CI (-3.264 to 0.931â
s) and mean difference = -1.120, 95% CI (-3.316 to 1.075â
s), respectively) with no differences between climbing disciplines. Climbers had a significantly greater FTI compared to controls (mean difference = 2205, 95% CI= 1114-3296 and mean difference = 1716, 95% CI = 553-2880, respectively) but not between disciplines. There were no significant group differences in ΔFAV or mâ©O2. The greater MVC in boulderers may be due to neural adaptation and not hypertrophy. A greater oxidative capacity index in both climbing groups suggests that irrespective of climbing discipline, trainers, coaches, and practitioners should consider forearm specific aerobic training to aid performance.
Palavras-chave
Texto completo:
1
Coleções:
01-internacional
Base de dados:
MEDLINE
Assunto principal:
Consumo de Oxigênio
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Resistência Física
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Músculo Esquelético
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Força Muscular
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Antebraço
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Hemodinâmica
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Montanhismo
Limite:
Adult
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Humans
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Male
Idioma:
En
Revista:
Eur J Sport Sci
Ano de publicação:
2017
Tipo de documento:
Article
País de afiliação:
Reino Unido